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Practical Hats

If you want to get ahead, get a hat
I was watching something that involved a pair of Russian police/militia/soldiers.
They were wearing the sort of hat that as a kid I called a peaked cap or “officer's hat”. Also known as a “bus driver's” hat or “visor cap”.
The Russians tend to favour a style that is extra wide.
There was a shot from being the cops, and what are supposably intended to be flat tops of their hats bulged in the middle from the shape of their heads inside.
This made me reflect on the great variety of headgear humanity has used over the centuries, and the sometimes bizarre shapes some hats have tried to create.
A common thread in my blogs is I have encouraged readers to give some thought to “accessories”: scarves, gloves and hats.
These can make a lot of difference to your comfort.
Since I do not have much hair, I have several hats.
Snow or shine, I generally have my head covered if outdoors.
Some thoughts on practical headgear may be of use.
What is a “practical” hat? Let us assume it not only protects the head, but keeps the ears and back of the neck warm, and/or keeps the rain and sun out of the eyes. It is also useful if a hat can be easily stowed in a typical jacket pocket when not worn.
My headgear varies with season.
It recently occurred to me that in practice I have to deal with more than four seasons: There is winter, summer, cold spring, warm spring, warm autumn and cold autumn. Winter itself may vary between snowy and non-snowy phases.
In contrast, some parts of the world have only two seasons: too hot or too wet!

Woolly Hat

The woolly/acrylic hat, knit cap, watch cap or beanie is one of the most practical forms of headgear.
Knit cap, beanie, watch cap
One size fits nearly everyone. When not worn, it scrunches up small and fits in a pocket. It keeps your head warm, but still allows it to breathe.
Pull it down to keep your ears warm, roll it up when it is warmer.
Cold night?. Use a beanie as a night cap.
Acrylic versions are good if you are on a budget, and may be more comfortable than expensive high quality versions in milder conditions.
I own a few of these, in various colours. Most are in neutral or natural hues.
I also have a red one for when I want to be seen.
When visiting an area of town famous for its busy markets and crowds, I wore this red hat and a red scarf. I told my girlfriend and stepson: “If we are separated, look for the hat and scarf”. They did lose me, but before I even noticed they were gone, they came running up, laughing that “The hat and scarf work!”
While I am not very Christmassy, I wear the red hat towards the end of December.
Ways of wearing a headover
Included in this category is the headover. In addition to being used as a hat, the headover may also serve as a balaclava or neck gaiter. A versatile item worth carrying in your pack.
Balaclavas and ski-masks may also be rolled upwards and worn as watch caps.
Most of my coats have a woolly hat or headover stuffed in a pocket.
Having a spare in your bag or backpack is generally a good idea.

Ball Cap

Some people will wear a beanie all year round, indoors or out. I find mine a little hot in certain conditions.
The baseball cap, ball cap or “snap-back cap” is another very practical form of headgear.
Saint in Baseball cap
They are adjustable for different head sizes, and easily pocketed when not being worn.
The brim keeps the sun out of your eyes and the rain off any glasses or goggles.
Most of my raincoats have some form of peaked or visored headgear in a pocket.
In many police forces and similar services, ball caps are often used instead of more traditional but less practical uniform headgear.
I have a Chinese-made cap that is closer to a military patrol cap in shape, having a flatter top, but has an adjustment strap at the back.
I use a carabineer as a keyring. I hang my cap from the carabineer by the strap when not wearing it.

Boonie Hat

Strictly speaking, a few ball caps and watch caps/headovers will probably cover most of your headgear needs.
For summer and hot climate wear, I am fond of the boonie hat.
Light sand-coloured boonie hat
For most of my foreign travels I used a boonie hat in Advantage Classic camouflage.
It is a little bulkier than a ball cap, but this was not a problem since I usually carried it in a daysac if not wearing it.
It was considerably more robust than the straw panama hat I had been using.
The boonie worked well against the sun, and shed most of the tropical storms I encountered.
Cotton or cotton mix chills you when wet. This can be exploited for hot weather headgear.
If it was really hot, soaking the hat in water and wearing it has a welcome cooling effect.
On the first day of experiencing a very hot Caribbean sun, I used the foliage loops of the boonie to hold ice cubes from a cup of soda.
My Advantage boonie spends most of its time in my soft-core pack these days. Recently, I decided to treat myself to another for daily wear this summer. This one is in Desert Auscam.
The only downside to the boonie is they are not adjustable for size. Luckily, I have a fairly average-sized head. The Auscam hat was a “small”, but soaking it in water and wearing it about the house seems to have fitted it comfortably to my head.
Chocolate Chip Camouflage Boonie Hat
I used another boonie (in “Chocolate chip” desert camo) as the basis for my camouflaging headgear experiment.
Properly camouflaged boonie hat.
Camouflage needs to be three-dimensional and holistic
Boonies are available in a wide variety of camouflage patterns, and also in solid colours. Since these are primarily worn in sunny weather, lighter, more reflective patterns or colours are preferable if camouflage is not a priority.
A friend of mine uses a grey boonie since it blends in well with the forest and does not look mil-spec when in public.
If camouflage is a priority, go 3D as explained. Simply wearing something in a camouflage pattern does not make you camouflaged. You need to be holistic, and break‑up distinctive, recognizable shapes.
Camouflage cover over boonie hat.
Insect head nets work well with boonies, making them hang a good distance from your tender flesh.

Pasamontañas

I find watch caps are not uncomfortable in light rain. Unfortunately, they do nothing to keep the rain off my glasses.
If I have both with me, I have been known to wear watch cap over ball cap or ball cap over watch cap.
I could insert a plastic or cardboard brim into a watch cap, or buy a “jeep cap”, but these have an undesirable “Radar from MASH” association.
A better alternative comes from the Spanish Civil War. The Spanish Civil War (SCW) probably popularized the beret in European military circles. Oddly, the pasamontañas never caught on, despite being widely used and popular with both Spanish and foreign volunteer fighters.
Web-search “pasamontañas” and you will mainly get images of typical balaclavas.
Pasamontañas woollen hat
The Spanish Civil War item was a balaclava with a peak added. Usually the face and neck part was rolled upwards to create a sort of “soft kepi”. A number of other military hats in use in Spain were shaped to resemble a rolled up pasamontañas.
Oddly, the same shape may be seen here.
Field cap based on a pasamontañas
Search for “peaked balaclava” and you will find some modern equivalents to the SCW pasamontañas.
Does everything a watch cap does, but keeps the low winter sun out of my eyes and the rain off my specs.
As a balaclava, mine has enough “give” that it may be worn open faced, or “letterbox” style with only the eyes exposed.
A little bulkier than a watch cap, fold it transversely to carry it in a pocket or under a shoulder strap.
The pasamontañas is worth adding to your winter gear.
A white version for wearing in snow or a version in more autumnal colours would be welcome.
The SCW versions seem to have usually been brown-khaki drab very appropriate for winter wear.
Adding a peak from another hat to a balaclava would not be too difficult a project. It would be prudent to have a green underside to the brim of a white version to reduce the effects of snow glare.

Cold Weather Hat

I have found a knit cap sufficient for most cold weather that I have encountered.
It is what I must have used when in minus thirty degree windchill in the mountains of Iceland. I suspect I also made use of my raincoat's hood in that instance.
If you follow my advice to carry a spare knit cap, you can wear both if it is really cold, or combine them with another form of headgear.
If you are in more northerly latitudes, or will not be able to move around to keep warm, a more substantial cold weather hat may be warranted.
Russian Ushanka Cold Weather Hat
A well-proven example is the Russian “ushanka”. These became readily available since the Iron Curtain dropped.
Ear flaps may be worn up or down. Presumably the piece at the front may be folded down, but I do not ever recall seeing one worn this way. The fur on the peak seems to serve no function whatever.
A friend of mine planned to buy an ushanka and place a pair of googly eyes on the front.
Most cold weather hats from other parts of the world, such as the Canadian/Alaskan “lumberjack/trapper/Elmer Fudd hat” are similar to the ushanka, having fur, pile or fleece lining and folding ear/neck flaps.
Some examples I have seen include a drawcord or elasticated section that allows them to be adjusted for size.
German Army Cold Weather Hat with two types of ear flaps
The German example above is interesting, apparently having both unfurred ear flaps and a longer furred set with a chin strap and greater comfort in a range of temperatures. The British Army seems to use a similar design.

Intermediate Weather Cap

For the start of spring or end of autumn, a knit cap or pasamontañas serves well. A Boonie or a ball cap is good for summer.
For that transitional, often changeable, phase either end of summer, something intermediate may be more comfortable.
Patrol cap with ear flaps
An unlined version of a ski/mountain cap, or the type of patrol cap that has ear flaps may prove useful. This may be worn like a ball cap, and the flap section turned down to cover the ears and back of the neck if necessary.
The British Army and Royal Air Force forage cap was usually seem worn as a side cap, but was designed so that it could be unfolded into ear flaps. Many versions had a peak when unfolded.
Some of the Spanish caps designed to look like pasamontañas had fold down side flaps.
Potentially, an intermediate weather cap shaped like a pasamontañas or soft kepi/patrol cap could be created. Make it a little larger, give it a warm lining and add extra, larger side flaps and you have a cold weather variant.
Add a flat-topped snap-back cap for summer and indoor wear and you have a very practical “uniform” range of headgear

Swedish Hood

I am not a great one for wearing hoods.
When up, they can affect your peripheral vision and situational awareness.
When down, they can get snagged by branches and other projections.
Either up or down they may be grabbed and used against you.
I usually have a hat, so hoods that roll up into collars tend to stay there. Detachable hoods stay in a pocket in the coat.
I rolled up the hood of my German Army desert parka and added some press studs so that it stays there, forming a collar.
Swedish Hood
A trick worth knowing is known as the “Swedish hood”. Arrange as shown in the image above, and tie in place with the hood drawcord.

Sou'Wester

In some parts of the world it rains a lot.
A staple of maritime foul weather gear, it is surprising that the sou'wester does not see more use on land.
You would think someone around Seattle would be making them in goretex and selling them like hot cakes.
I have been able to find just one example of a sou'wester in a camouflage pattern or tactical colours.
Camouflaged sou'wester

Helmets

One of the reasons I started thinking about hats again is I saw this video on the kettle hat.
The kettle hat was to evolve into designs such as the Spanish morion, the British Brodie helmet and the French Adrian.
However, the example shown in the video has a lot going for it, and would be great campaign headgear.
The wide brim and shape provided good defence against descending arrows and stones.
The brim and basic shape would diverts rain like a sou'wester.
The brim would also keep the sun off the face.
Such helmets might be worn with a coif, hood or other form of “cap comforter” which would somewhat mitigate the effect of hot sun heating the metal or very low temperatures.
If you live in a volcanic area, it may literally rain stones, so hard headgear such as a construction hard hat is worth considering in some instances.
Pliny the Elder investigated Vesuvius and Pompeii with a pillow on his head. A rolled poncho-liner or sleeping bag could be used in the same way.
Many special forces units have used skateboard and whitewater helmets, not to stop bullets, but to protect from the various knocks and bumps that occur when moving through complex terrain.
These helmets lack peaks and leave the ears exposed, so clearly we can do better. The Swedish Army issues a helmet cover that includes a visor, and ear flaps as well as allowing the attachment of foliage.
Bump caps resemble ball caps and are designed to protect the wearer from minor bumps and impacts.
The inserts are sold separately, so theoretically could be fitted to boonie hats, pasamontañas or knit caps. How this would effect ventilation I do not know. It will certainly make the hat harder to fit in a pocket when not worn.

Useful Modifications

Boonie hats come with a cord to reduce the chance of your losing them.
This is a useful addition to any hat that has a brim or visor. A gust of wind can take them right off your head.
I have not bothered fitting cords to my knit caps. I make sure the knit cap is pulled down snug if the wind is strong. A pasamontañas may not stay on in a gale, but if it is that windy I should be wearing it in balaclava mode.
One of the most useful additions to any hat is a hanging loop by which the hat may be attached to a snap-link, tied to a pack or similar. Invest in a few feet of ribbon.
A friend of mine put a pad of foam in his hat. This made sure the hat would float if he dropped it in a river. The foam would have also provided useful insulation against the sun or cold.
Some folks like to put fishing gear or survival kits into their hats.
Firstly, a hat is not a good place to carry any unnecessary weight. The reason special forces experimented with skateboard helmets was the issue bullet-resistant helmet was too heavy with night vision, illumination and communication gear mounted on it. The risk of taking a bullet was preferable to the neck ache.
You will not be able to get a full survival kit in your hat, just some potentially useful trinkets.
I have seen numerous forums where someone boasts of all the useful gear in their “survival hat”.
Not unreasonably, someone will point out that a hat is one of the items of clothing most likely to get lost, so not a good place for emergency gear.
“I have never lost my hat yet” will be the usual response. This tells us much more about the speaker than the subject, and does not cast them in a good light!
[This is an example of the “I have never broken my arm therefore my arm is unbreakable” hypothesis. Easily disproved by the classic “Wack with an iron bar” experiment.]
A friend of mine carries a length of spare paracord spiralled around the foliage loops of his boonie hat. This actually improves the ability to retain foliage.
With the correct choice of paracord pattern/colour, this helps break‑up the regular shape of the foliage band, which is typically made of a single colour strap.
This page has an interesting modification for hats. I have been unable to locate a sufficient-sized piece of luminous material, so do not know if this modification will trap perspiration.
The luminous part could be used for signalling, or the hat worn inside‑out when you need to be visible.
A modification of this idea is to only sew the piece of material on three sides, creating a pocket in your hat. This may be done with non‑luminous material, of course.
The most practical thing I can think to keep in such a pocket is a spare bandanna. When in the pocket it provides extra insulation and a little bit of padding.
The bandanna may be used for signalling, or camouflage, depending on colour carried.

Havelocks and Pugrees

When necessary, a bandanna or keffiyeh may be used as a havelock.
A havelock is a flap of cloth that covers the back of the neck. It will be familiar from the iconic image of a French foreign legionary. They are also seen being used by Second World War Japanese soldiers.
While on the topic of fairly rare, hat related terms, a mention of the pugree.
The pugree (in this context) was a piece of cloth wound around a pith helmet or solar topee. Often these were just decorative, but some versions had a “tail” that could be used as a face covering, or just to mop sweat from the face.
The idea could be adapted to other forms of headgear.

Improvised Headwear

If you do not have a hat with you, a keffiyeh or bandanna may be used to good effect as an improvised head covering. A trick I have used a couple of times in both cold and sunny conditions.
A bandanna may also be used as a sweatband to keep perspiration out of your eyes. This may be used with a hat or on its own.
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Barata

Palms: A Handy Measuring Tool

Over my decades of writing this blog, I have learned a number of useful things.
Some of them are useful in everyday life, rather than being strictly emergency or self-defence skills.
How to count to twelve on one hand
One example I often use is the technique of counting on finger bones rather than fingers. Using this method it is possible to count to twelve with one hand, or to 72 or 156 using both.
Somewhere along the line I learnt the trick of counting in fours.
I used to group things into threes when counting. Fours is more efficient, and it is easy to group fours into larger groups of twelve, sixteen or twenty for a quick total.
The count of larger groupings may be combined with the finger bone counting method. Eight twenties and three left? 163.
Some readers may have noticed that in my later writings I have tried to utilize anthropic measurements when this is clearer.
“Three body lengths” distance is much easier to visualize than six metres, seven yards or 21 feet.
Similarly, instructing someone to place their feet two foot-lengths or a shoulder-width apart compensates for varying body sizes, so more useful than giving an exact value in inches, feet, yards, centimetres or metres.
Today’s idea derives from my fictional measuring system, which was eventually used in my novel “Anatopismo”.
In this system there was a sub-unit called the “vingt” that was a sixth of a standardized cubit, or a twentieth of a standard double pace.
Only recently did it occur to me that the vingt was very close to the width of a human palm.

Palms

Many cultures have used units of measure based on or named after the palm. Some are based on the palm width, others on the hand length.
In this article, “palm” should be understood to refer to palm width.
Logically enough, the palm is often subdivided into four “digits” (finger breadths).
Some definitions of the palm are as being the width of four digits, rather than the width of the palm.
What is interesting is how the palm width correlates with a number of other body-based units of measure.
A cubit distance
As alluded to above, a cubit is around six palms. A double pace is around 20 palms, so a single pace is around ten palms.
A cubit approximates a shoulder-width, so a shoulder width is approximately six palms or 24 finger-breadths.
Two cubits, or twelve palms is approximately the distance from the finger tips to the nose if you hold your hand out to the side. This is approximately a yard, and cloth was sometimes measured out using this method. Hence the term “clothyard”. 13 palms, or two cubits and a palm is about a metre. Since most of us are under six foot tall, these “yards” and “metres” will be a little short.
Four cubits, or 24 palms, is approximate to an arm-span (approximately a fathom), which can be taken as equivalent to a body-length. An arm-span is a handy way to measure cordage.
Use your quick maths tricks here.
To multiply by six, triple and double the result.
Multiply by 24, triple and double three times (keeping count on your finger bones!). Multiply by 20, double and add a nought, and so on.
A seconds pendulum is about 99 cm. If you need to time something, use a cord half a digit less than half an arm-span plus a palm long.
I am not suggesting you throw away your tape measures and rulers.
Knowing the relationship between digits, palm widths and cubits can provide you with a useful “personal approximating” system.
If you are consistent with whose hand you use and how you measure, these units can have an acceptable level of accuracy.
If using this system to make something, I suggest you remember the maxim of “measure twice and cut once”. In practice, measure several times, and err on the side of caution. Trimming down is easier than adding material back!
Where across the palm should you use for measuring?
Personally, I go across where the fingers join the palm, from the outside of the bottom joint of the first finger to the outside of the bottom joint of the little finger. It is easier to measure in digits on this line too.
A palm width is approximately three inches or 7.5 cm. A digit is therefore approximately three-quarters of an inch, or 18-20 mm.
My palm is about 83 mm or 3.25 inches, making my average digit a shade under 21 mm. I am 1.8 metres tall, which makes me more than two palms under 24.
Like I have already said, this is an approximation system.

Paces

A double pace

Paces are more useful for longer horizontal distances.
A double pace, by the above, is 20 palms or three and a third cubits.
More usefully, this means ten cubits are three double paces.
Five body-lengths is six double paces.
Some older Russian Mosin-Nagant rifles may be found with sights graduated in arshin.
Arshin is defined as the distance from the shoulder to fingertips, but is often treated as being a single pace. Interestingly, that is one and a half cubits, which would make a double pace three cubits.
Actual paces are very variable, depending on speed, terrain, body size, age, disability, fatigue and other factors.
My current double pace is about 1.17 metres/46 inches, which is about 14 to 15 palms, depending what value of palm I use.
I have to walk with a cane these days.
I tried measuring between the points my walking cane contacted the ground, and got a value of about 33 inches/ 83 cm (10 palms), which shows how much a pace can vary.
Over any distance, my double pace probably averages around two cubits, which is a convenient value.
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Barata

Practical EDC Kit

When it comes to EDC/survival/emergency kits, I think it is safe to say that many people just are not getting it.
EDC kits should be available
An excellent example was an LBE/webbing pouch designed specifically to carry a survival tin.
What is wrong with that?
One of the likely events that will put you on emergency status is becoming separated from your rucksack, webbing or jacket.
Yes, my rucksacks, coats and jackets contain emergency items.
These are intended as a supplement to my EDC/emergency kit, and are not the primary kit itself.
There is not a perfect answer.
Jackets may be taken off, packs put down, hats get lost.
The clothing item that I am least likely to be separated from is my trousers. Thus, my primary EDC items are in my trouser pockets, or in pouches on the trouser belt.
Luckily, I am not subject to any stupid work dress codes, so trousers means those with thigh cargo pockets.

What, No Survival Tin?

No, I don’t carry a survival tin.
I want my EDC items easily accessible so I can use them if needed. Try wrestling with a yard of tape in the wind with an injured bleeding finger.
The supposed advantage that you can boil a tiny amount of water in the tin to sterilize something is marginal at best.
I do not want a hard item banging against my thigh as I walk, and digging into me if I sit down or fall.
Lid as a mirror? Most survival tin lids that I have seen will require a lot of polishing. You can easily buy a better item, saving you a lot of time for a very small amount of money.
The best thing you can do with a survival tin is empty the contents out and use them to stock a better EDC kit as will be described.
Many of the tin items need to be in karger quantities anyway.
Use the tin to pack something fragile in your backpack.

Practical EDC Kit

Much of this has been covered in previous blogs. There have been some updates, reorganisations and additions since I first wrote those page.
A friend requested I bring the updated information together in one place.

Trouser Belt

The trouser belt that I use is a rigger’s belt. This could be used with the carabineer I carry my keys on.
Main reason for having a rigger’s belt is that unlike my previous belt, it does not have a buckle that damages my tee-shirts.
The kit is spread across several locations, rather than all the “eggs in one basket”.

Left Thigh Cargo Pocket

Within a large zip lock bag, a little zippered pouch, mainly containing medical items.
EDC Pouch Contents
This pouch also contains many smaller items such as
• Safety pins
• Paper clips
• Two colours of chalk
• A pencil
• Two birthday cake candles
• One sailmaker’s sewing needle wrapped with invisible thread
• Dental floss
• Ultra minimal fishing kit of six spans of braided line and 22 fishing hooks.
• Space blanket. Few traditional survival tins have these, but potentially one of most useful items you can carry in your pocket. Mine fits inside the zippered pouch. If yours does not, put it in a plastic bag or its original packaging.
A good idea is to buy space blankets in bulk and add one to each of your rucksacks and outdoor coats. Keep some in your vehicle and so on.
I have added my little button compass to this pouch, purely because it may be of some use here, while it is of none sitting in my gear box.
The large zip lock bag is reinforced with duct tape so could be used to carry water or for other purposes.

Right Thigh Cargo Pocket

• A zip lock bag of tissues/toilet paper.
• Some additional cordage of various types, since the left side pocket was getting bulky.
• A Sharpie, or some other pen that can write on most things.
• A ballpoint pen. I have a Zebra pen, but any type that will not get broken in your pocket.
• A “thumb” flashlight.
• A pen-shaped window breaker, which includes a handcuff key.
• An insect head net. I use the British Forces Mosquito/Midge Micro Head Net (NSN 8415-99-519-8268), since it is compact, and costs less than a pint of beer. May be used as a carrying bag or a net for shrimp and small fish (bait). This could be an EDC item or part of the up-levelling if heading to the wilds.
• Supply of personal medication.

Left Side Pocket

• One bandanna
• One disposable-type lighter in waterproof case, with some duct tape wrapped around lighter body.
• Two two-metre bootlaces or lengths of paracord.
• Hank of cotton string: conserves paracord and may be used as tinder.

Right Side Pocket

Keyring Tool Kit for EDC

Coins, but seldom enough to buy anything.
Carabiner key ring on belt hanger above pocket. My keys are always with my trousers, never in a jacket or bag. The logic of this should be clear by now.
Key ring includes the “split ring tool kit” detailed in the recent article: SAK Rambler, photon light copy, whistle, paperclip, P51 can-opener.

Small Pouch on Trouser Belt

Suunto CLipper Compass

• Debit card
Ear plugs in small plastic box they came in
• Small magnifier loupe
Mirror in case with laminated Morse reminder card and Fresnel lens inside.
• Small set of EDC lock picks.
Tubular spectacles retaining cord. Moved to this pouch from the left pocket so that it does not get mixed-up with the other cordage.
Because I am a bit of a magpie, a few found hairpins and paperclips have ended up in this pouch.
I used to carry a USB drive here, but use the cloud more these days.
My usual “bug-out coat”, and the soft-core pack in any rucksac I might be carrying, both contain larger baseplate compasses.
It is surprising how often the Clipper compass has proved useful in towns, however.
Budget Baseplate compass
If you do not have a Clipper, the smaller budget versions of baseplate compasses are more useful than tiny button compasses. A compass is much more useful with a movable bezel.

Repurposed Mobile Phone Case on Trouser Belt

Customized Swiss Army Ranger with pocket clip

• Mini-Leatherman P4 Squirt
• Diamond impregnated metal sharpening card
• “Widgy” three‑inch prybar.
[I am a tool whore! Guilty]
The Ranger contains a number of useful additional items, including a ferro-rod toggle, sewing needle and line, pen, pin, tweezers, toothpick/tick remover and a magnet.
You could add a wire-saw here. I find it more comfortable to carry mine in a pocket of my bug-out parka.

Mobile Phone

Worn on trouser belt in another pouch.
My phone is pretty useless, but does have a flashlight mode.
If you have a smartphone, it may have useful things such as a compass and GPS. Chances are the reason you are in trouble is you didn’t look up from your phone!
The above is my personal kit and provided for guidance. There is no point having lock picks nor sharpening items unless you know how to use them. [although I have written enough articles explaining how]. Likewise, cordage requires a knowledge of knots.
If you are still in the bloom of youth, you probably do not need a magnifier to read package labels [yet!]
All of this EDC is pretty easily transferred across when I change trousers. Only one pouch needs threading onto the belt rather than clipping on.
Back pocket is a little wallet of cards and useful numbers and a comb. Nothing really of survival use.
The above kit fits any trousers with thigh pockets. No need for extra pockets nor anything fancy.

Up‑Levelling

If I expected to be heading to the wilds, I might add some additional elements to the EDC. These items will mainly go in the right thigh pocket.
A zip lock bag containing a larger quantity of tissues/toilet paper would be likely. This is an additional supply of emergency bumph. The soft-core pack that will be in my rucksack includes a full roll of toilet paper and a bottle of hand sanitizer with it.
If not already there, I would add the insect head net. Biting insects range from nuisance to life threatening. Given the low price and minimal bulk, you would be foolish not to have an insect head net in your EDC if you can.
I would probably expand my fishing capability with several trot lines, each of six spans of braided fishing line with swivels already tied in place. A container of hooks on leaders, some with lures such as mackerel feathers.
One or more ten-metre spools of picture hanging wire for making traps. You could make these up beforehand, but there is a chance you might encounter a cop or ranger who wants to be a dick and classes ready-made snares as intent.
To the above, I can also add the belt holding my kukri, Mora and a pouch holding a fire kit and sharpening stone.
I was intending to attach this belt to my trouser belt using press-stud keepers. The weight probably carries better worn down on the hips, however.
A handgun could be added to this belt where such was permissible.