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Read The Third Wave by Alvin Toffler!
Categories
Barata

Practical Hats

If you want to get ahead, get a hat
I was watching something that involved a pair of Russian police/militia/soldiers.
They were wearing the sort of hat that as a kid I called a peaked cap or “officer's hat”. Also known as a “bus driver's” hat or “visor cap”.
The Russians tend to favour a style that is extra wide.
There was a shot from being the cops, and what are supposably intended to be flat tops of their hats bulged in the middle from the shape of their heads inside.
This made me reflect on the great variety of headgear humanity has used over the centuries, and the sometimes bizarre shapes some hats have tried to create.
A common thread in my blogs is I have encouraged readers to give some thought to “accessories”: scarves, gloves and hats.
These can make a lot of difference to your comfort.
Since I do not have much hair, I have several hats.
Snow or shine, I generally have my head covered if outdoors.
Some thoughts on practical headgear may be of use.
What is a “practical” hat? Let us assume it not only protects the head, but keeps the ears and back of the neck warm, and/or keeps the rain and sun out of the eyes. It is also useful if a hat can be easily stowed in a typical jacket pocket when not worn.
My headgear varies with season.
It recently occurred to me that in practice I have to deal with more than four seasons: There is winter, summer, cold spring, warm spring, warm autumn and cold autumn. Winter itself may vary between snowy and non-snowy phases.
In contrast, some parts of the world have only two seasons: too hot or too wet!

Woolly Hat

The woolly/acrylic hat, knit cap, watch cap or beanie is one of the most practical forms of headgear.
Knit cap, beanie, watch cap
One size fits nearly everyone. When not worn, it scrunches up small and fits in a pocket. It keeps your head warm, but still allows it to breathe.
Pull it down to keep your ears warm, roll it up when it is warmer.
Cold night?. Use a beanie as a night cap.
Acrylic versions are good if you are on a budget, and may be more comfortable than expensive high quality versions in milder conditions.
I own a few of these, in various colours. Most are in neutral or natural hues.
I also have a red one for when I want to be seen.
When visiting an area of town famous for its busy markets and crowds, I wore this red hat and a red scarf. I told my girlfriend and stepson: “If we are separated, look for the hat and scarf”. They did lose me, but before I even noticed they were gone, they came running up, laughing that “The hat and scarf work!”
While I am not very Christmassy, I wear the red hat towards the end of December.
Ways of wearing a headover
Included in this category is the headover. In addition to being used as a hat, the headover may also serve as a balaclava or neck gaiter. A versatile item worth carrying in your pack.
Balaclavas and ski-masks may also be rolled upwards and worn as watch caps.
Most of my coats have a woolly hat or headover stuffed in a pocket.
Having a spare in your bag or backpack is generally a good idea.

Ball Cap

Some people will wear a beanie all year round, indoors or out. I find mine a little hot in certain conditions.
The baseball cap, ball cap or “snap-back cap” is another very practical form of headgear.
Saint in Baseball cap
They are adjustable for different head sizes, and easily pocketed when not being worn.
The brim keeps the sun out of your eyes and the rain off any glasses or goggles.
Most of my raincoats have some form of peaked or visored headgear in a pocket.
In many police forces and similar services, ball caps are often used instead of more traditional but less practical uniform headgear.
I have a Chinese-made cap that is closer to a military patrol cap in shape, having a flatter top, but has an adjustment strap at the back.
I use a carabineer as a keyring. I hang my cap from the carabineer by the strap when not wearing it.

Boonie Hat

Strictly speaking, a few ball caps and watch caps/headovers will probably cover most of your headgear needs.
For summer and hot climate wear, I am fond of the boonie hat.
Light sand-coloured boonie hat
For most of my foreign travels I used a boonie hat in Advantage Classic camouflage.
It is a little bulkier than a ball cap, but this was not a problem since I usually carried it in a daysac if not wearing it.
It was considerably more robust than the straw panama hat I had been using.
The boonie worked well against the sun, and shed most of the tropical storms I encountered.
Cotton or cotton mix chills you when wet. This can be exploited for hot weather headgear.
If it was really hot, soaking the hat in water and wearing it has a welcome cooling effect.
On the first day of experiencing a very hot Caribbean sun, I used the foliage loops of the boonie to hold ice cubes from a cup of soda.
My Advantage boonie spends most of its time in my soft-core pack these days. Recently, I decided to treat myself to another for daily wear this summer. This one is in Desert Auscam.
The only downside to the boonie is they are not adjustable for size. Luckily, I have a fairly average-sized head. The Auscam hat was a “small”, but soaking it in water and wearing it about the house seems to have fitted it comfortably to my head.
Chocolate Chip Camouflage Boonie Hat
I used another boonie (in “Chocolate chip” desert camo) as the basis for my camouflaging headgear experiment.
Properly camouflaged boonie hat.
Camouflage needs to be three-dimensional and holistic
Boonies are available in a wide variety of camouflage patterns, and also in solid colours. Since these are primarily worn in sunny weather, lighter, more reflective patterns or colours are preferable if camouflage is not a priority.
A friend of mine uses a grey boonie since it blends in well with the forest and does not look mil-spec when in public.
If camouflage is a priority, go 3D as explained. Simply wearing something in a camouflage pattern does not make you camouflaged. You need to be holistic, and break‑up distinctive, recognizable shapes.
Camouflage cover over boonie hat.
Insect head nets work well with boonies, making them hang a good distance from your tender flesh.

Pasamontañas

I find watch caps are not uncomfortable in light rain. Unfortunately, they do nothing to keep the rain off my glasses.
If I have both with me, I have been known to wear watch cap over ball cap or ball cap over watch cap.
I could insert a plastic or cardboard brim into a watch cap, or buy a “jeep cap”, but these have an undesirable “Radar from MASH” association.
A better alternative comes from the Spanish Civil War. The Spanish Civil War (SCW) probably popularized the beret in European military circles. Oddly, the pasamontañas never caught on, despite being widely used and popular with both Spanish and foreign volunteer fighters.
Web-search “pasamontañas” and you will mainly get images of typical balaclavas.
Pasamontañas woollen hat
The Spanish Civil War item was a balaclava with a peak added. Usually the face and neck part was rolled upwards to create a sort of “soft kepi”. A number of other military hats in use in Spain were shaped to resemble a rolled up pasamontañas.
Oddly, the same shape may be seen here.
Field cap based on a pasamontañas
Search for “peaked balaclava” and you will find some modern equivalents to the SCW pasamontañas.
Does everything a watch cap does, but keeps the low winter sun out of my eyes and the rain off my specs.
As a balaclava, mine has enough “give” that it may be worn open faced, or “letterbox” style with only the eyes exposed.
A little bulkier than a watch cap, fold it transversely to carry it in a pocket or under a shoulder strap.
The pasamontañas is worth adding to your winter gear.
A white version for wearing in snow or a version in more autumnal colours would be welcome.
The SCW versions seem to have usually been brown-khaki drab very appropriate for winter wear.
Adding a peak from another hat to a balaclava would not be too difficult a project. It would be prudent to have a green underside to the brim of a white version to reduce the effects of snow glare.

Cold Weather Hat

I have found a knit cap sufficient for most cold weather that I have encountered.
It is what I must have used when in minus thirty degree windchill in the mountains of Iceland. I suspect I also made use of my raincoat's hood in that instance.
If you follow my advice to carry a spare knit cap, you can wear both if it is really cold, or combine them with another form of headgear.
If you are in more northerly latitudes, or will not be able to move around to keep warm, a more substantial cold weather hat may be warranted.
Russian Ushanka Cold Weather Hat
A well-proven example is the Russian “ushanka”. These became readily available since the Iron Curtain dropped.
Ear flaps may be worn up or down. Presumably the piece at the front may be folded down, but I do not ever recall seeing one worn this way. The fur on the peak seems to serve no function whatever.
A friend of mine planned to buy an ushanka and place a pair of googly eyes on the front.
Most cold weather hats from other parts of the world, such as the Canadian/Alaskan “lumberjack/trapper/Elmer Fudd hat” are similar to the ushanka, having fur, pile or fleece lining and folding ear/neck flaps.
Some examples I have seen include a drawcord or elasticated section that allows them to be adjusted for size.
German Army Cold Weather Hat with two types of ear flaps
The German example above is interesting, apparently having both unfurred ear flaps and a longer furred set with a chin strap and greater comfort in a range of temperatures. The British Army seems to use a similar design.

Intermediate Weather Cap

For the start of spring or end of autumn, a knit cap or pasamontañas serves well. A Boonie or a ball cap is good for summer.
For that transitional, often changeable, phase either end of summer, something intermediate may be more comfortable.
Patrol cap with ear flaps
An unlined version of a ski/mountain cap, or the type of patrol cap that has ear flaps may prove useful. This may be worn like a ball cap, and the flap section turned down to cover the ears and back of the neck if necessary.
The British Army and Royal Air Force forage cap was usually seem worn as a side cap, but was designed so that it could be unfolded into ear flaps. Many versions had a peak when unfolded.
Some of the Spanish caps designed to look like pasamontañas had fold down side flaps.
Potentially, an intermediate weather cap shaped like a pasamontañas or soft kepi/patrol cap could be created. Make it a little larger, give it a warm lining and add extra, larger side flaps and you have a cold weather variant.
Add a flat-topped snap-back cap for summer and indoor wear and you have a very practical “uniform” range of headgear

Swedish Hood

I am not a great one for wearing hoods.
When up, they can affect your peripheral vision and situational awareness.
When down, they can get snagged by branches and other projections.
Either up or down they may be grabbed and used against you.
I usually have a hat, so hoods that roll up into collars tend to stay there. Detachable hoods stay in a pocket in the coat.
I rolled up the hood of my German Army desert parka and added some press studs so that it stays there, forming a collar.
Swedish Hood
A trick worth knowing is known as the “Swedish hood”. Arrange as shown in the image above, and tie in place with the hood drawcord.

Sou'Wester

In some parts of the world it rains a lot.
A staple of maritime foul weather gear, it is surprising that the sou'wester does not see more use on land.
You would think someone around Seattle would be making them in goretex and selling them like hot cakes.
I have been able to find just one example of a sou'wester in a camouflage pattern or tactical colours.
Camouflaged sou'wester

Helmets

One of the reasons I started thinking about hats again is I saw this video on the kettle hat.
The kettle hat was to evolve into designs such as the Spanish morion, the British Brodie helmet and the French Adrian.
However, the example shown in the video has a lot going for it, and would be great campaign headgear.
The wide brim and shape provided good defence against descending arrows and stones.
The brim and basic shape would diverts rain like a sou'wester.
The brim would also keep the sun off the face.
Such helmets might be worn with a coif, hood or other form of “cap comforter” which would somewhat mitigate the effect of hot sun heating the metal or very low temperatures.
If you live in a volcanic area, it may literally rain stones, so hard headgear such as a construction hard hat is worth considering in some instances.
Pliny the Elder investigated Vesuvius and Pompeii with a pillow on his head. A rolled poncho-liner or sleeping bag could be used in the same way.
Many special forces units have used skateboard and whitewater helmets, not to stop bullets, but to protect from the various knocks and bumps that occur when moving through complex terrain.
These helmets lack peaks and leave the ears exposed, so clearly we can do better. The Swedish Army issues a helmet cover that includes a visor, and ear flaps as well as allowing the attachment of foliage.
Bump caps resemble ball caps and are designed to protect the wearer from minor bumps and impacts.
The inserts are sold separately, so theoretically could be fitted to boonie hats, pasamontañas or knit caps. How this would effect ventilation I do not know. It will certainly make the hat harder to fit in a pocket when not worn.

Useful Modifications

Boonie hats come with a cord to reduce the chance of your losing them.
This is a useful addition to any hat that has a brim or visor. A gust of wind can take them right off your head.
I have not bothered fitting cords to my knit caps. I make sure the knit cap is pulled down snug if the wind is strong. A pasamontañas may not stay on in a gale, but if it is that windy I should be wearing it in balaclava mode.
One of the most useful additions to any hat is a hanging loop by which the hat may be attached to a snap-link, tied to a pack or similar. Invest in a few feet of ribbon.
A friend of mine put a pad of foam in his hat. This made sure the hat would float if he dropped it in a river. The foam would have also provided useful insulation against the sun or cold.
Some folks like to put fishing gear or survival kits into their hats.
Firstly, a hat is not a good place to carry any unnecessary weight. The reason special forces experimented with skateboard helmets was the issue bullet-resistant helmet was too heavy with night vision, illumination and communication gear mounted on it. The risk of taking a bullet was preferable to the neck ache.
You will not be able to get a full survival kit in your hat, just some potentially useful trinkets.
I have seen numerous forums where someone boasts of all the useful gear in their “survival hat”.
Not unreasonably, someone will point out that a hat is one of the items of clothing most likely to get lost, so not a good place for emergency gear.
“I have never lost my hat yet” will be the usual response. This tells us much more about the speaker than the subject, and does not cast them in a good light!
[This is an example of the “I have never broken my arm therefore my arm is unbreakable” hypothesis. Easily disproved by the classic “Wack with an iron bar” experiment.]
A friend of mine carries a length of spare paracord spiralled around the foliage loops of his boonie hat. This actually improves the ability to retain foliage.
With the correct choice of paracord pattern/colour, this helps break‑up the regular shape of the foliage band, which is typically made of a single colour strap.
This page has an interesting modification for hats. I have been unable to locate a sufficient-sized piece of luminous material, so do not know if this modification will trap perspiration.
The luminous part could be used for signalling, or the hat worn inside‑out when you need to be visible.
A modification of this idea is to only sew the piece of material on three sides, creating a pocket in your hat. This may be done with non‑luminous material, of course.
The most practical thing I can think to keep in such a pocket is a spare bandanna. When in the pocket it provides extra insulation and a little bit of padding.
The bandanna may be used for signalling, or camouflage, depending on colour carried.

Havelocks and Pugrees

When necessary, a bandanna or keffiyeh may be used as a havelock.
A havelock is a flap of cloth that covers the back of the neck. It will be familiar from the iconic image of a French foreign legionary. They are also seen being used by Second World War Japanese soldiers.
While on the topic of fairly rare, hat related terms, a mention of the pugree.
The pugree (in this context) was a piece of cloth wound around a pith helmet or solar topee. Often these were just decorative, but some versions had a “tail” that could be used as a face covering, or just to mop sweat from the face.
The idea could be adapted to other forms of headgear.

Improvised Headwear

If you do not have a hat with you, a keffiyeh or bandanna may be used to good effect as an improvised head covering. A trick I have used a couple of times in both cold and sunny conditions.
A bandanna may also be used as a sweatband to keep perspiration out of your eyes. This may be used with a hat or on its own.
Categories
Phillosoph

Debugging Your Bug-Out Bag: 3 Clothing

Conceivably, the need to bug out may occur when you are in the shower, or snug in your bed.
You will need to wear something other than your current garb! (Although admittedly pyjamas seem to have worked well for the Viet Cong!)Polycotton Long-Johns
In previous articles, I have talked about having an outfit to bug out in. These may either be kept with your bug‑out bag (BOB), or in your BOB and changed into when there is time.
At the very least, you should have a good coat and pair of boots near your bag. Packing these items in your bag will take up space you could use for other items.
Your boots should be in good condition, but broken in.
It is not a bad idea to have a pair of socks with them, ready to put on. Socks may be used to form a “nightcap” over the top of boots to hinder the entry of scorpions and other critters. A plastic bag over the top keeps the moths from feasting on your good wool socks.
It is wise to give your boots a good shake before putting them on anyway.
Tropentarn Camouflage
I suggest a good coat rather than a jacket. I intend to use my desert parka, adding the warm liner if needed.
Some books suggest your main coat or jacket be a breathable waterproof. These may be insufficiently breathable or hot in warm weather. If you wear your waterproof all the time the chances of it getting damaged are higher, and they tend to be very expensive!
In anticipation of its use, various useful items are already packed into the pockets of my parka. These are not EDC items, but supplements to the EDC items I carry in/with my trousers.
Parka contents include: neck-gaiter/headover, scrim scarf/veil, merkalon gloves, compass with sighting mirror, plastic mirror/heliograph, wire-saw, space blanket, cotton string/tinder, butane lighter. On a neck cord with a ferro-rod and striker are a whistle, snap-link and photon light.
Typically a warm hat, bandana and keffiyeh is nearby.
Various items from the BOB are likely to migrate to the parka or trousers so they are more accessible.
Kukri, Mora Companion and Fire Kit.
Also with the bag I have a hip‑belt with my kukri, Mora, sharpening stone and a small fire kit mounted on it.

Clothing

This topic of clothing to keep with your bug-out-bag I have previously discussed in my blog on “Dressing for Bug-Out”.
This blog will concentrate on what clothing to have in your bag.
A bug‑out bag is intended to support you for 72 hours, so you will not need that many changes of clothing.
On the other hand, wind, rain and sun can kill you in a few hours if your clothing is not suitable.
How much clothing to carry when travelling light?
Opinions differ here.
My theory is that you should have at least one complete change of clothing, since you should expect an unexpected dunking.
Some soldiers wear one set of clothing during the day and change into their alternate set to sleep, letting the day set dry and air. Kephart suggested a similar strategy.

Have a Change of Clothes

It is not practical to carry a spare parka, but a spare shirt/tunic and trousers will take little room inside a pack.
You should have two sets of undergarments, a “wear and a spare”, appropriate for season and climate.
Thermal underwear is great when it is really cold. Under most conditions it will have you sweaty and miserable. Have intermediate options.

Socks

One of the first clothing purchases for your bug-out bag that you should make is to invest in three or four pairs of good quality woollen socks. You will get nowhere without your feet.
Four pairs let you change into a drier pair whenever necessary. You may double up if it is unexpectedly cold. Two pairs of medium weight socks will be warmer than a single extremely thick pair.
A couple of extra (cheaper?) pairs of socks are worth the weight and may be tucked into various locations to pad other gear, stop things rattling etc.
For very cold conditions, have two pairs of boot insoles and alternate them. One pair airs and dries while the other pair is worn. Punch a hole in them so you can tie them to something when airing.
Similarly, sew loops of ribbon to your socks so they may be tied to the outside of your pack while drying.

Rain Poncho

Have a rain-poncho or two. If your poncho is in a pouch or has a pocket, keep a couple of lengths of cord with it. Paracord stretches, so something non-elastic is preferable. These will be handy when rigging your poncho as a shelter.
Pocho Shelters
If it is very windy, one of these cords may be used as a belt for your poncho.
I always have a couple of spans of bootlace or cord in my left trouser pocket, and these may be used with the poncho in the same fashion.
Accessories such as hats, scarf and gloves may make the difference between comfort and catastrophe. Have spares!

Gloves

You should carry protective gloves and warm gloves. Glove liners are useful when you need more dexterity or it is especially cold.
When the wind is high or the mercury low, losing a glove can be serious. Have a spare set of gloves may save you using spare socks as mittens.
Sew a loop of ribbon, webbing or elastic to each of your gloves. You can attach them to your coat cuffs using a safety pin. This is probably more secure than the clips sold for the same purpose.
Or tie the gloves to a cord run down your sleeves and across your shoulders.

Headwear

Hats are another item it is wise to carry spares of. Extra woolly hat or headover in the cold, extra hat with brim in sun. In some parts of the world you may want a rainhat!
Pack a watch-cap with your sleeping gear as a nightcap.
Carry an insect head net. If you have one in your EDC, a spare in your BOB is not a bad idea.
Don’t let the wind steal your head-coverings! Buy a metre or two of elastic and add hat-straps to the hats that do not have them.
Carry several bandannas (some on your person) and a spare keffiyeh or scarf, depending on climate and season. Bandannas are another practical way to stop gear rattling, and serve as water filters, havelocks, oven gloves etc.

Eye Protection

Your bug-out bag should include goggles and/or sunglasses. In some environments these will be very important, so have spares. In such conditions carry one set on your person and your spares in your bag.

Hi-Viz

I prefer my clothing to be neutral or natural shades.
There will be times when you very much want to be seen, however.
A hi-viz jerkin with reflective tape weighs little and packs up small. You cannot really use this while wearing your poncho, so I would also recommend an orange or red cap or woolly hat.
There are hi-viz rucksack covers that increase your visibility when viewed from the rear. These might not fit if you have a lot of gear on the outside of your pack. In this case, have a panel of hi-viz material and reflective tape with ties that may be knotted around your rucksac straps.
This panel may be used as a flag to attract rescuers to your camp site.
If walking along roadways, walk on the side of oncoming traffic.
Part 4
Categories
Phillosoph

Kidney Warmers and Bellybands

Decades ago, when I first saw “Fists of Fury”, the scene above puzzled me. How did Bruce Lee’s character conclude the chef was Japanese just from seeing his undergarment?
The answer is that the Japanese are known for being fond of haramaki or “bellybands”.
Kidney Warmer/ Bellyband
The Germans are also fond of a similar garment. I have read of the Afrika Korps being issued “kidney-warmers”. The “Armed Forces of World War Two” by Andrew Molo clarifies:
“With the rapid drop in temperature at night, personnel wore a knitted woollen waist protector next to their skin, and a woollen greatcoat over their other clothing.”
I used to work with a colleague who had a German wife. I was apparently “mother’s wisdom” that you should wear a kidney warmer to keep your feet warm. Similarly, running around without socks could cause kidney and bladder problems.
Kidney warmer
It is interesting that diverse cultures in different parts of the world maintain that there is a link between kidneys and feet!
In a previous blog I mentioned that some American Civil War soldiers wore a flannel belt next to the skin.
Bellyband side view
“So what?” you may be asking. Many readers will own at least one set of long underwear. And sometimes the undershirt rides up and exposes the small of your back. A kidney warmer would have prevented this and also proved extra insulation.
Or perhaps, you are wearing a loose tee-shirt and find things can get a little drafty when the wind picks up.
Suppose you have to improvise cold weather clothing due to an unexpected change in the weather. Wrapping a spare scarf, keffiyeh or strip of material around your midriff could make all the difference.
Button around bellyband
There are a variety of styles of bellyband available. Some are elasticated tubes you either step into or pull over. Others are wrap-around and utilize velcro or other means.
If you have a snug-fitting tee-shirt or jumper that has seen better days, it should be easy to make your own kidney warmer to try the idea out.
Categories
Phillosoph

In Praise of Shemagh and Keffiyeh

Previously, I wrote about the fallacy that most face masks would protect you from infection. Inevitably, most of humanity has ignored the facts and taken comfort in superstition. Somewhere along the way members of our kleptocracies have realized just how much money can be made selling ineffective protective measures to the gullible.
Wearing face covering has become a requirement on public transport and in certain buildings. The stated purpose is to prevent carriers infecting other people, which admittedly has some merit. My objection here is in the lack of enforcement. As a microbiologist and a scientist I believe any safety equipment should be used properly. Masks serve no purpose if they do not cover the nostrils or are worn on your chin! I also, unreasonably, believe that laws and rules should apply to everyone. Being overweight and being unable to stop stuffiing your face on the bus is not a legitimate reason to go unmasked.
I have taken to wearing a shemagh/ keffiyeh when I travel on public transport. Looking like a pissed-off Palestinian shows my contempt for the farcical handling of the situation. Does it look intimidating? Probably, but I don’t really want people getting close anyway. Perhaps I should carry a rucksac too; I might get the whole carriage to my self!
On a more practical note, I have discovered a new respect for the shemagh. I had been thinking of it as a large banana, (or possibly a tea-towel!). The weave of my shemaghs is very loose, allowing the easy passage of breath or perspiration. On one particularly sunny day I kept my shemagh on when back on the street. It successfully kept the sun off my bald dome, and I was not bothered by perspiration running down into my eyes. It also helped keep my earphones in. Being cotton, dunking the shemagh in water may be a good way to keep cool in hot weather.
I have discussed the need for facial camouflage on other pages. I believe I have also mentioned one of the purposes of the ninja ensemble is to muffle the sound of breathing. The shemagh can meet these needs. In cold weather the shemagh may help prevent your condensed breath revealing your position. Something to experiment once it gets colder.
A brightly coloured shemagh might be used for signalling. One of mine is red and black, although in honesty this a bit dull in colour for signalling or location. Might be good in snow. Most shemaghs are white and have little virtue as camouflage save in snow. Dying them more tactical colours may be possible. Most “tactical” shemaghs are green/ olive drab, but except in jungle this is not as versatile and useful a practical colour as brown. I have one of brown and black, but ideally brown and sand or brown and grey would be most useful.

Tying the Shemagh

You will find a number of videos on how to tie a shemagh on-line. My usual method is to take the short, right end up near my left temple. Take the long end round the front, round the back and tie the ends together. I have been using a reef knot, but may experiment with a simpler overhand (half a reef!). This may be easier to untie when necessary. Tied correctly, the shemagh forms a hood and face-covering that can easily be lowered or raised. Down, it makes a useful neck gaiter. Position the part over your head so it does not expose a large area of forehead.
Another simple tying method can be used if you just need to cover your lower face, such as in the event of a dust storm. Fold your shemagh diagonally and place the widest/ tallest part over your mouth and nose. Take the ends behind your head and bring them around the front and tie them together under your chin. This gives your lower face area an irregular texture that contributes to shape disruption.
You should always have a bandanna or two on your person. A shemagh is a very worthy addition to a coat pocket or rucksac.
I am prone to migraine attacks, and one of the remedies is to breath in carbon dioxide-rich air. Carbon dioxide is a vasodilator so this increased blood flow to the brain. Note that this is not the same as re-breathing from a paper bag. You need to take in fresh oxygen as well as an increased CO2 level. One way to achieve this is to cover your mouth and nose with your hands. This is a little inconvenient, and my fingers get in the way of my glasses. Last night I grabbed my shemagh and knotted it around by lower face. As the migraine attack eased off, I was amused to note that I was wearing the two garments that pretty much summed up my lockdown: a dressing gown and a shemagh.