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Read The Third Wave by Alvin Toffler!
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Computers and Related Hassles

Today's blog subject is a little removed from the usual themes of self‑defence or self‑reliance.
I would like to pass on some tips that make life a smidgen easier.
Think of them as a defence against some elements of modern life attacking your sanity, if you wish.
Burning computer

Reset Folder

A common theme on this blog is to urge the reader to have back‑ups, both for you computer, and for your life in general.
On my backup and external drives I have a folder I call “Reset”.
In Reset are copies of the themes, backgrounds, profile photos, keyboard shortcuts, bookmarks, macros, browser extensions, fonts and plugins that I favour.
All the things that make my computer programs look and work just like I want them to.
Also in this folder are some installation .exes of some of my favourite programs.
When I have a new machine, or have to update my operating system, or something similar, I can quickly get things back to the way I like them.
A small but useful component of this folder is a text file checklist.
* The text file lists the programs I favour.
* The file lists which files need to be changed, and with what,
* The file also records where on the computer these files need to be put.

ISO to Go

Also on my external drives is a folder containing the ISOs of the operating systems I use on my home computer and laptop.
 I plan to have an ISO of my personal operating system if I can find a utility that works with my system.
Should I need a “live disc”, an ISO may easily be transferred to a flash drive with “Ventoy” on it.

Router Password Card

A previous broadband provider included with the router a plastic card with the network passkey printed on it.
That company was brought out by a less competent company that hiked the prices up, so I changed broadband providers.
The new provider did not provide a card, so I made my own.
On a blank plastic card I wrote the necessary information. I keep this card by the router.
Whenever my girlfriend or step-son visit, they will usually reach for that card to reset their devices.
This idea relies on the card being placed back with the router once it has been used. This has not been a problem in practice.
A very simple idea that has proved very useful.

Box of Computer Bits

Behind my computer is a box. It is a two-litre ice cream tub spray-painted black to match the computer. It is a useful height to rest my external hard drives on.
In the box is a multiple slot card reader for reading micro-SD, SD and other card-shaped formats.
Also in that box are various USB drives, SD cards, dongles, adaptors and computer leads.
Handy stuff to have near your computer.

Code Leads

I have a lot of computer leads, both in that box and elsewhere.
Most of them are black, so it can be time consuming finding the lead with the connectors that I need.
My solution was half an hour of time spent colour coding.
Types of USB Connector
One of the lead types I use most often has a USB-A at one end and a mini-B at the other. The “A” end now has a red and a yellow band, while the mini-B end has the same colours reversed with the yellow band closest to the mini-B connector.
Not only can I tell the type of lead at a glance, but which end each type of connector is at.
Leads with a USB-C connector rather than a mini-B use red and green.
An iPod lead has red and white bands.
A lead with a micro-B connection for attaching to drive enclosures uses red and blue.
A lead that has two type-A connectors, or two type-C has only one band at each end, respectively with red or green.
Leads with a type-A to type-B are rarer and usually stay plugged into a scanner or printer. For these, each end has red, yellow and blue bands.
Initially, I added the coloured bands using electrical tape. Perhaps I should have used longer bits, since several have detached.
So I invested in a bag of mixed coloured cable-ties/zip ties.
100 x 2.5 mm are ample size for this application. I found I needed extra red and yellow.
Best review your connector types before you order.
If you make a mistake, a cable-tie may be opened again using a pin. This is a variation of shimming.
If a cable-tie loosening is a concern, the cut end may be melted into a blob by gentle heating with a lighter flame or application of a heated metal implement.
My current earphones are shaped specifically for the left or right ear. I have tagged the left one with a cable-tie so it is easily distinguished by sight or touch.

Labels on USBs

My USB flash drives range from old examples with two gigabytes to more recent in 32 gigabyte sizes. Some of the smaller capacity drives are still handy for some purposes.
You can save a lot of time if you write the capacity of a USB drive on the outside.
There are two ways to plug in a USB. The right way and the first way you tried. Put your labels on the upper or outward side.

Paint Your Plugs

Ever unplugged your computer when you wanted to disconnect the device plugged in beside it?
I used to think plugs should have those little windows you can insert a piece of card into.
One day I remembered all the model paint I have, some of it in bright colours I seldom use.
So now my electrical plugs have legends such as “XBox”, “PSP”, “DVD”, “Comp”, “Shredder”, “Hoover” and similar in a variety of colours.
If you lack paint, stickers and a wide pen are an alternative.
Providing that I look at what I am doing, it is a lot easier to plug-in or unplug the device that I want.

Find the Remote

On the topic of stickers, the black TV remote control is often hard to locate when watching late at night.
I have added luminous star stickers to both sides in different configurations.
Now, not only can I find the remote, I can tell which side it is up and which end is which.

Hair Today…

Einstein
I suppose, given the great diversity of humanity, there may be someone who enjoys removing hair from the plughole. Probably whole forums, websites and fetish magazines about it.
Best not look.
You may have a sink strainer in your kitchen sink. Few people seem to think of using one in the bath/shower and bathroom sink.
Removing hair from a sink strainer is a lot easier than fishing it up out the plughole.

Final Thought

A lot of time would be saved if when a website asked for a password, it included the information that the password included numbers, capitals and/or non-alphanumeric characters.
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Barata

Happy Medium

The other day I had a good chuckle at someone calling a six-inch blade a “full‑sized knife”.
Aww! That is so precious and adorable!
Silliness aside, and (mostly) avoiding the “size matters” jokes.
After many years and too many purchases, I have concluded I do not have much use for medium‑sized field knives.
For purposes of the following discussion, let us define “medium‑sized” as a fixed blade survival/field/bushcraft knife with a blade between six and eight inches/15 to 20 cm.
Before you spend good money on a knife (or most other things) it is a good idea to have a think about what it is likely to be used for.
If there is a chance I might need to construct a shelter or build a campfire, I will try to have a big blade to hand.
Kukri, machete, parang, barong, golok, cane‑knife, billhook or hatchet. Many of these are available at any hardware store for a reasonable price.
Useful tools for self‑defence or if you need to butcher wild game too.
If I need to do finer work, a fixed blade of three to five inches is generally handier for such tasks than a medium knife.
A big blade and a small blade can cover most bushcraft roles: woodworking, food preparation and self‑defence.
So where does that leave the medium knives?
Many, many years ago I jotted down some ideas on a concept I called a “Desert Knife”.
If you were in an environment where trees were rare, it can be argued that you might not need to carry a blade that was an effective wood chopper.
You could carry a small blade in such an instance, but might feel this is not sufficient for defence.
This is one argument that might be made for carrying a medium knife.
An urban environment might meet the above criteria. Concealment may be a factor here, and a medium knife may still be too big.
As an aside, an urban environment often includes closed doors. A kukri or hatchet can prove useful there.
Suppose you want a medium knife or two, anyway.
There is a vast range, and some cost way more than good smaller or larger blades.
The following are some personal recommendations, mainly based on knives I have acquired or handled over the decades.
A selection of medium-sized field knives
From top to bottom: M3 Trench Knife, Ka-Bar USMC Survival Knife, Buck 119 Special, Victorinox Butcher Knife, MOD Survival Knife

M3 Trench Knife

The M3 trench knife is one of my favourite medium blades.
The blade‑form and balance are well suited to defensive use. Unlike, say, the Fairbairn‑Sykes commando dagger, the M3 is useful for many utility tasks too.
The M3 was sometimes marketed as the (Eickhorn) “NATO Combat Knife”, usually combined with the M8/M8A1 sharpening scabbard.
Some reviews suggest the sharpening scabbard had little noticeable effect on making the blade sharper.
The leather sheath seen with many examples has staples around the mouth, which seems a great way to get the blade finish scratched up. 
The Camillus “economy” leather sheath without the staples is nicer and more practical. If you cannot get this, use the fibre-glass M8.
The M3 is not a knife for skinning a buck, fine whittling, carving or cutting in depth. The broad angle is good for woodchip removal when chopping.
Like the Ka‑Bar, the M3 has a grip composed of leather washers. The grip has deep grooves, an oval cross section, and is also oval in plan and profile.
In other words, it is a pretty secure grip.
The butt has a metal plate to facilitate hammering, breaking nutshells, smashing windows and so on.
The M3 was so successful, the M4, a bayonet version for the M1 and M2 carbines was created.
The army began to issue M4s to troops who did not carry carbines, so the M3 was phased out.
The M4 was to evolve into the M5 (Garand), M6 (M14) and M7 (M16). The bayonet versions had phenolic handles and the associated hardware for fitting to a rifle.
Replica M3s may still be found at reasonable prices, often sold by suppliers to re-enactors.
The M7 bayonet may also be found, although the bayonet ring and butt piece may constitute unnecessary weight. The M7 is quoted as massing 1.19 lb!
I also own an Imperial M7S Survival Knife. This is based on the M7 bayonet. An odd blade shape to provide with three types of saw tooth. This was actually my first ever fixed blade survival knife.
I would love to find a source of M3/M7 blades so I could fit it with a grip such as the thistle‑top.
Incidentally, my notes show the “Desert Knife” design resembled an M3 with a serrated section.

Ka‑Bar US Marine Survival Knife

The Ka‑Bar is the blade most associated with the USMC.
I have never owned a genuine Ka‑Bar. Buy more books!
I have a rather nice copy of the Ka‑Bar, acquired relatively recently.
The Ka‑Bar is more of a traditional survival knife than the M3 and correspondingly, a more versatile choice.
Downside is Ka‑Bars tend to go for three‑figure sums.
The blade is a little longer and broader than the M3, having a Bowie‑shape.
The steel butt is designed for hammering with, and a little more elegant in shape than the M3 version.
Like the M3, the grip is composed of leather washers. Unlike my M3, the grip of my Ka‑Bar-oid is varnished. The marines were discover untreated leather washers did not hold up well in the jungle.
While some reviews will describe the leather washer handle as offering a great grip, other sources say the opposite.
I showed my lady the Ka‑Bar clone just after it arrived. Misunderstanding my intentions, she thought I was offering it to her. She told me “I already have my knife [a Mora Companion], and the grip is too slippery.”
She knows her knives, and is very practical. She uses her Mora as a diving knife when foraging for seafood. Interesting that she did not see any practical difference between the Ka‑Bar and a Mora.
I have heard of roughening and even reshaping a Ka‑Bar using sandpaper.
Tape of the sort used for gold clubs or tennis racquets may be another option.
A number of variants on the Ka‑Bar are on sale, including a USMC bayonet. Some have alternate grip materials. Some offer partially serrated edges.
I have no personal experience of these. I do have a tanto with a grip that looks identical to some Ka‑Bar versions. This tanto is an oddly “unlively” knife.
Ideally, try handling some Ka‑Bar examples before you part with your hard‑earned cash.

Buck 119 Special

Buck 119 Special

The Buck 119 is my favourite medium knife.
For a more extensive review, see my article here.
Blade is about an inch shorter than the Ka‑Bar.
The grip is smooth phenolic, since I could not afford the cocobolo version.
Despite the smooth surface, I find this a very secure and comfortable grip due to the subtle finger grooves and thumb depression. That is me, however.
A friend of mine finds the grip does not suit his hands.
Wrapping the grip with tape or line is an option.
My only criticism of the 119 is the polished finish. I suspect many potential buyers would prefer something less shiny.
I suggested to Buck that a tactical version with a non-reflective finish and coyote‑brown or khaki‑drab grip would be popular. I got told that Buck “no longer accepts customer suggestions”.
I have both five and seven‑inch Buck Nighthawks, but the 119 much is better.
The Nighthawk 651 Pigsticker is really nice, but your changes of getting one are remote.
The Buck 120 General was not available when I brought my 119. The 120 seems to have been put back into production.
The 120 is a 119 with a 73/8" blade.
I do not own a 120, but if any reader wants to give me something for my upcoming big number birthday…

20 cm Butcher Knife

Butcher knife and M3 Combat Knife
Butcher Knife and M3 Trench Knife
I have already covered the merits of a good butcher knife in a previous article.
While possibly a little thin for woodworking, a butcher knife is unsurprisingly good for food preparation and self‑defence.
Might be prudent to invest in one of these before you pay three figures for a Ka‑Bar or Buck.

MOD Survival Knife

MOD Survival Knife

The MOD (British Ministry of Defence) survival knife is about as basic and no nonsense as you can get.
A thick bit of metal with a slab of wood each side.
The point seems like an afterthought.
As a general rule, you should not dig nor pry with a knife. If you were to do either of these, the MOD would probably be the tool to use.
The MOD will not earn you admiring glances around camp. It is, however, robust and capable of most survival duties.
If space were severely limited, this might be the knife I took with me. In practice, my 10" kukri is only a shade longer and probably lighter.
If your reason for choosing a medium was to save weight, the MOD is probably not the medium for you.
MODs were once popular for custom projects. The grips were an obvious target for improvement. The tendency to cause blisters could be mitigated by wrapping with cord or tape, or wearing gloves.
Personally I do not find the grip that bad. That might change if I had to put mine to hard use.
Blades were sometimes reground or reshaped.
The bad news is the price of an MOD survival knife has risen in the past few years, now crossing triple figures.

Honorary Mentions

In addition to some of the models already mentioned, I would not mind owning or reviewing the Morakniv Garberg Grand, Morakniv Bushcraft Pathfinder and the Sissipuukko.
My SRKC has got me interested in the Cold Steel SRK 6".

Conclusion

If starting from scratch, I think the butcher knife and the M3 would be my first purchases.
All of the described knives have their pros and cons. A medium-sized knife is something of a compromise, after all. Notable is that the MOD is the only model provided with a channel for a wrist-loop.
It becomes apparent that a very nice and useful medium knife could be created if the Ka‑Bar blade was mated to a Buck 119-type handle.
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Barata

Cold Steel 5 inch SRKC

Birthday coming, so some self‑indulgent purchases recently.

Cold Steel

In fairness, I must start by admitting to being a little ambivalent towards Cold Steel.
Some of their stuff is very interesting. Some is very expensive, while other items seem good value. Some of their products are praised to the skies, while others have issues. I have an impression that price and quality do not always correlate.
On Venice Beach, I had a conversation with an entertainer who claimed he used Cold Steel True Flight Throwing (TFT) knives out of “economic necessity”. He claimed TFT were incorrectly heat treated for their role. He threw them until they inevitably broke. He claimed to have a bucket filled with broken TFT. Cannot say I liked the ones that I threw.
That was a couple of decades ago, but more recent reviews still mention breakages.
Cold Steel make kukri‑inspired knives, and I would love to see how these compare to the real thing. The grip shape of a kukri is near perfect for its role. I am doubtful that the evident changes to the grip made by Cold Steel are for the better.
Unfortunately, the CS kukri‑oids come with a high price tag. I am not going to spend good, hard‑earned money on what may prove inferior to what I already have.
On the other hand, I have drooled over the Thai Machete, but have been unable to source one this side of the pond.
I have also been tempted by Cold Steel's copy of the TruBal Bowie Axe thrower, the Perfect Balance Thrower. I mention the former in “Survival Weapons”.
As I sat down to write this, I was a little surprised to realize the only other Cold Steel implement I owned was a Mini‑Flight Thrower sent to me by a good friend.
In this video it is claimed that the SRK was the first knife issued to SEALs for their Basic Underwater Demolition training (BUDS).
You can take that two ways.
SEALs would not issue something that was total dross, but most SEALs progress to other designs.
The SEALs issue the 6" model.

SRKC

Cold Steel 5" SRKC

I decided on a Cold Steel 5" SRK (aka SRKC/SRK Compact). I was interested in this as an alternative “pec‑knife”. A knife this length is generally handier than those in the six to eight inch category.
The 5" version differs from the 6" model in thickness, grind and grip width.

Sheath

I had heard the sheath of the SRK had been changed, and was not very good.
The sheath of mine is quite reasonable, so may be it got changed again, or that comment did not apply to the SRKC.
Cold Steel SRKC and Sheath
The knife clicks into a collar on the sheath. Not quite with the crisp “snap” of my Moras or Gerber Strongarm, but it keeps the knife in if you give it a good shake, so good enough.
For added security, there is a retaining strap with a popper. This is better than the example on my personal Strongarm. It is a generous (slightly loose) fit, and the pull tab is a good size so may be unpopped with just a flick of the thumb.
The sheath is not ambidextrous. You have to align the blade correctly before reinserting it.
The belt hanger has a loop large enough to fit most belts, and has a popper and velcro so it may be easily removed from a belt without unthreading.
The belt hanger is secured by two bolts, so it may be removed and remounted for handle‑down carry. The sheath as a number of eyelets and slots, so other configurations may be possible.
The cross slots in the bolt heads are compatible with the small (can‑opener) screwdriver of a Swiss Army Knife, so no searching for an Allen key or Torx wrench, and it is possible to reposition the belt‑hanger while out in the field.
There is a choice of handle colours, but the sheath is “any colour you want so long as it is black”. You could probably paint it.
Knife and sheath together are quite light, which is good.
Selection of Pec-Knives
Pec-knives: Mantis MF-1, Gerber Strongarm and Cold Steel SRK-Compact

Blade

Blade thickness is important for pec‑knives and “cross‑over” survival knives. They may be put to heavier use than most knives of similar size.
The SRKC is about 4 mm thick, putting it midway between my Moras and the Strongarm.
One side of the blade was smeared with some grease. The blade is carbon steel, rather than the stainless I had assumed.
The box cautioned me that Cold Steel knives are “extremely sharp”. Not even close. Straight out of the box, this one wasn't.

Grip

The handle is a hard, rubber‑like material (Kray‑Ex) with a slight tackiness and good checkering.
There is a brass‑lined channel for a wrist loop, which is a good feature. A lot of very expensive knives do not have such.
My only criticism of the Moras is this lack, but their handle and tang construction makes it an easy task to add one with a gimlet.
What I do not like about the grip is the cross‑section. It is basically a rectangle with inwardly tapered long sides. An oval cross‑section would be more comfortable, more attractive and more practical.

Butt

There is a slight flare towards the butt, aiding retention.
The butt of the knife is covered in the same material as the rest of the grip. It is ridged, presumably for grip if you use an ice‑pick, hook or ninja hold.
On the plus side, no bare metal if you use the knife in sub‑zero conditions. Possibly it will provide electrical insulation if you cut a live wire?
Grip length is ok for me (Size 8 hands). If you have really big hands, you might find the butt within your palms.
On the other hand, the covered butt may not be ideal if you have to use it for pounding or hammering.
Gerber Strongarm
Gerber Strongarm
In contrast, the Strongarm has an exposed section of tang at the butt that may possibly be used as a window breaker.
In “Northern Bushcraft”, Kochanski suggests a “knife should have a strong pommel that will protect the handle if the knife is driven tip first deep into wood.”
Arguably, the Mora(s) Kochanski famously usually carried does not meet that criteria.

Price and Value

My SRKC cost me £52, but I have seen them offered at £39.99 (Out of stock). A Mora will be under £14, and a Strongarm is currently £89 to £100+. Prices tend to be higher on this side of the pond due to less competition and demand.
Personally, I feel the SRKC is a little overpriced for what it is. This seems much more a £30+ knife.
Shop around and be on the lookout for deals. In the US, prices under $40 may be encountered, which is a more reasonable price.
I was a little underwhelmed when I unboxed the SRKC. I am beginning to warm to it.
Consider it as an option if you can find it at a good price.
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Barata

Practical Hats

If you want to get ahead, get a hat
I was watching something that involved a pair of Russian police/militia/soldiers.
They were wearing the sort of hat that as a kid I called a peaked cap or “officer's hat”. Also known as a “bus driver's” hat or “visor cap”.
The Russians tend to favour a style that is extra wide.
There was a shot from being the cops, and what are supposably intended to be flat tops of their hats bulged in the middle from the shape of their heads inside.
This made me reflect on the great variety of headgear humanity has used over the centuries, and the sometimes bizarre shapes some hats have tried to create.
A common thread in my blogs is I have encouraged readers to give some thought to “accessories”: scarves, gloves and hats.
These can make a lot of difference to your comfort.
Since I do not have much hair, I have several hats.
Snow or shine, I generally have my head covered if outdoors.
Some thoughts on practical headgear may be of use.
What is a “practical” hat? Let us assume it not only protects the head, but keeps the ears and back of the neck warm, and/or keeps the rain and sun out of the eyes. It is also useful if a hat can be easily stowed in a typical jacket pocket when not worn.
My headgear varies with season.
It recently occurred to me that in practice I have to deal with more than four seasons: There is winter, summer, cold spring, warm spring, warm autumn and cold autumn. Winter itself may vary between snowy and non-snowy phases.
In contrast, some parts of the world have only two seasons: too hot or too wet!

Woolly Hat

The woolly/acrylic hat, knit cap, watch cap or beanie is one of the most practical forms of headgear.
Knit cap, beanie, watch cap
One size fits nearly everyone. When not worn, it scrunches up small and fits in a pocket. It keeps your head warm, but still allows it to breathe.
Pull it down to keep your ears warm, roll it up when it is warmer.
Cold night?. Use a beanie as a night cap.
Acrylic versions are good if you are on a budget, and may be more comfortable than expensive high quality versions in milder conditions.
I own a few of these, in various colours. Most are in neutral or natural hues.
I also have a red one for when I want to be seen.
When visiting an area of town famous for its busy markets and crowds, I wore this red hat and a red scarf. I told my girlfriend and stepson: “If we are separated, look for the hat and scarf”. They did lose me, but before I even noticed they were gone, they came running up, laughing that “The hat and scarf work!”
While I am not very Christmassy, I wear the red hat towards the end of December.
Ways of wearing a headover
Included in this category is the headover. In addition to being used as a hat, the headover may also serve as a balaclava or neck gaiter. A versatile item worth carrying in your pack.
Balaclavas and ski-masks may also be rolled upwards and worn as watch caps.
Most of my coats have a woolly hat or headover stuffed in a pocket.
Having a spare in your bag or backpack is generally a good idea.

Ball Cap

Some people will wear a beanie all year round, indoors or out. I find mine a little hot in certain conditions.
The baseball cap, ball cap or “snap-back cap” is another very practical form of headgear.
Saint in Baseball cap
They are adjustable for different head sizes, and easily pocketed when not being worn.
The brim keeps the sun out of your eyes and the rain off any glasses or goggles.
Most of my raincoats have some form of peaked or visored headgear in a pocket.
In many police forces and similar services, ball caps are often used instead of more traditional but less practical uniform headgear.
I have a Chinese-made cap that is closer to a military patrol cap in shape, having a flatter top, but has an adjustment strap at the back.
I use a carabineer as a keyring. I hang my cap from the carabineer by the strap when not wearing it.

Boonie Hat

Strictly speaking, a few ball caps and watch caps/headovers will probably cover most of your headgear needs.
For summer and hot climate wear, I am fond of the boonie hat.
Light sand-coloured boonie hat
For most of my foreign travels I used a boonie hat in Advantage Classic camouflage.
It is a little bulkier than a ball cap, but this was not a problem since I usually carried it in a daysac if not wearing it.
It was considerably more robust than the straw panama hat I had been using.
The boonie worked well against the sun, and shed most of the tropical storms I encountered.
Cotton or cotton mix chills you when wet. This can be exploited for hot weather headgear.
If it was really hot, soaking the hat in water and wearing it has a welcome cooling effect.
On the first day of experiencing a very hot Caribbean sun, I used the foliage loops of the boonie to hold ice cubes from a cup of soda.
My Advantage boonie spends most of its time in my soft-core pack these days. Recently, I decided to treat myself to another for daily wear this summer. This one is in Desert Auscam.
The only downside to the boonie is they are not adjustable for size. Luckily, I have a fairly average-sized head. The Auscam hat was a “small”, but soaking it in water and wearing it about the house seems to have fitted it comfortably to my head.
Chocolate Chip Camouflage Boonie Hat
I used another boonie (in “Chocolate chip” desert camo) as the basis for my camouflaging headgear experiment.
Properly camouflaged boonie hat.
Camouflage needs to be three-dimensional and holistic
Boonies are available in a wide variety of camouflage patterns, and also in solid colours. Since these are primarily worn in sunny weather, lighter, more reflective patterns or colours are preferable if camouflage is not a priority.
A friend of mine uses a grey boonie since it blends in well with the forest and does not look mil-spec when in public.
If camouflage is a priority, go 3D as explained. Simply wearing something in a camouflage pattern does not make you camouflaged. You need to be holistic, and break‑up distinctive, recognizable shapes.
Camouflage cover over boonie hat.
Insect head nets work well with boonies, making them hang a good distance from your tender flesh.

Pasamontañas

I find watch caps are not uncomfortable in light rain. Unfortunately, they do nothing to keep the rain off my glasses.
If I have both with me, I have been known to wear watch cap over ball cap or ball cap over watch cap.
I could insert a plastic or cardboard brim into a watch cap, or buy a “jeep cap”, but these have an undesirable “Radar from MASH” association.
A better alternative comes from the Spanish Civil War. The Spanish Civil War (SCW) probably popularized the beret in European military circles. Oddly, the pasamontañas never caught on, despite being widely used and popular with both Spanish and foreign volunteer fighters.
Web-search “pasamontañas” and you will mainly get images of typical balaclavas.
Pasamontañas woollen hat
The Spanish Civil War item was a balaclava with a peak added. Usually the face and neck part was rolled upwards to create a sort of “soft kepi”. A number of other military hats in use in Spain were shaped to resemble a rolled up pasamontañas.
Oddly, the same shape may be seen here.
Field cap based on a pasamontañas
Search for “peaked balaclava” and you will find some modern equivalents to the SCW pasamontañas.
Does everything a watch cap does, but keeps the low winter sun out of my eyes and the rain off my specs.
As a balaclava, mine has enough “give” that it may be worn open faced, or “letterbox” style with only the eyes exposed.
A little bulkier than a watch cap, fold it transversely to carry it in a pocket or under a shoulder strap.
The pasamontañas is worth adding to your winter gear.
A white version for wearing in snow or a version in more autumnal colours would be welcome.
The SCW versions seem to have usually been brown-khaki drab very appropriate for winter wear.
Adding a peak from another hat to a balaclava would not be too difficult a project. It would be prudent to have a green underside to the brim of a white version to reduce the effects of snow glare.

Cold Weather Hat

I have found a knit cap sufficient for most cold weather that I have encountered.
It is what I must have used when in minus thirty degree windchill in the mountains of Iceland. I suspect I also made use of my raincoat's hood in that instance.
If you follow my advice to carry a spare knit cap, you can wear both if it is really cold, or combine them with another form of headgear.
If you are in more northerly latitudes, or will not be able to move around to keep warm, a more substantial cold weather hat may be warranted.
Russian Ushanka Cold Weather Hat
A well-proven example is the Russian “ushanka”. These became readily available since the Iron Curtain dropped.
Ear flaps may be worn up or down. Presumably the piece at the front may be folded down, but I do not ever recall seeing one worn this way. The fur on the peak seems to serve no function whatever.
A friend of mine planned to buy an ushanka and place a pair of googly eyes on the front.
Most cold weather hats from other parts of the world, such as the Canadian/Alaskan “lumberjack/trapper/Elmer Fudd hat” are similar to the ushanka, having fur, pile or fleece lining and folding ear/neck flaps.
Some examples I have seen include a drawcord or elasticated section that allows them to be adjusted for size.
German Army Cold Weather Hat with two types of ear flaps
The German example above is interesting, apparently having both unfurred ear flaps and a longer furred set with a chin strap and greater comfort in a range of temperatures. The British Army seems to use a similar design.

Intermediate Weather Cap

For the start of spring or end of autumn, a knit cap or pasamontañas serves well. A Boonie or a ball cap is good for summer.
For that transitional, often changeable, phase either end of summer, something intermediate may be more comfortable.
Patrol cap with ear flaps
An unlined version of a ski/mountain cap, or the type of patrol cap that has ear flaps may prove useful. This may be worn like a ball cap, and the flap section turned down to cover the ears and back of the neck if necessary.
The British Army and Royal Air Force forage cap was usually seem worn as a side cap, but was designed so that it could be unfolded into ear flaps. Many versions had a peak when unfolded.
Some of the Spanish caps designed to look like pasamontañas had fold down side flaps.
Potentially, an intermediate weather cap shaped like a pasamontañas or soft kepi/patrol cap could be created. Make it a little larger, give it a warm lining and add extra, larger side flaps and you have a cold weather variant.
Add a flat-topped snap-back cap for summer and indoor wear and you have a very practical “uniform” range of headgear

Swedish Hood

I am not a great one for wearing hoods.
When up, they can affect your peripheral vision and situational awareness.
When down, they can get snagged by branches and other projections.
Either up or down they may be grabbed and used against you.
I usually have a hat, so hoods that roll up into collars tend to stay there. Detachable hoods stay in a pocket in the coat.
I rolled up the hood of my German Army desert parka and added some press studs so that it stays there, forming a collar.
Swedish Hood
A trick worth knowing is known as the “Swedish hood”. Arrange as shown in the image above, and tie in place with the hood drawcord.

Sou'Wester

In some parts of the world it rains a lot.
A staple of maritime foul weather gear, it is surprising that the sou'wester does not see more use on land.
You would think someone around Seattle would be making them in goretex and selling them like hot cakes.
I have been able to find just one example of a sou'wester in a camouflage pattern or tactical colours.
Camouflaged sou'wester

Helmets

One of the reasons I started thinking about hats again is I saw this video on the kettle hat.
The kettle hat was to evolve into designs such as the Spanish morion, the British Brodie helmet and the French Adrian.
However, the example shown in the video has a lot going for it, and would be great campaign headgear.
The wide brim and shape provided good defence against descending arrows and stones.
The brim and basic shape would diverts rain like a sou'wester.
The brim would also keep the sun off the face.
Such helmets might be worn with a coif, hood or other form of “cap comforter” which would somewhat mitigate the effect of hot sun heating the metal or very low temperatures.
If you live in a volcanic area, it may literally rain stones, so hard headgear such as a construction hard hat is worth considering in some instances.
Pliny the Elder investigated Vesuvius and Pompeii with a pillow on his head. A rolled poncho-liner or sleeping bag could be used in the same way.
Many special forces units have used skateboard and whitewater helmets, not to stop bullets, but to protect from the various knocks and bumps that occur when moving through complex terrain.
These helmets lack peaks and leave the ears exposed, so clearly we can do better. The Swedish Army issues a helmet cover that includes a visor, and ear flaps as well as allowing the attachment of foliage.
Bump caps resemble ball caps and are designed to protect the wearer from minor bumps and impacts.
The inserts are sold separately, so theoretically could be fitted to boonie hats, pasamontañas or knit caps. How this would effect ventilation I do not know. It will certainly make the hat harder to fit in a pocket when not worn.

Useful Modifications

Boonie hats come with a cord to reduce the chance of your losing them.
This is a useful addition to any hat that has a brim or visor. A gust of wind can take them right off your head.
I have not bothered fitting cords to my knit caps. I make sure the knit cap is pulled down snug if the wind is strong. A pasamontañas may not stay on in a gale, but if it is that windy I should be wearing it in balaclava mode.
One of the most useful additions to any hat is a hanging loop by which the hat may be attached to a snap-link, tied to a pack or similar. Invest in a few feet of ribbon.
A friend of mine put a pad of foam in his hat. This made sure the hat would float if he dropped it in a river. The foam would have also provided useful insulation against the sun or cold.
Some folks like to put fishing gear or survival kits into their hats.
Firstly, a hat is not a good place to carry any unnecessary weight. The reason special forces experimented with skateboard helmets was the issue bullet-resistant helmet was too heavy with night vision, illumination and communication gear mounted on it. The risk of taking a bullet was preferable to the neck ache.
You will not be able to get a full survival kit in your hat, just some potentially useful trinkets.
I have seen numerous forums where someone boasts of all the useful gear in their “survival hat”.
Not unreasonably, someone will point out that a hat is one of the items of clothing most likely to get lost, so not a good place for emergency gear.
“I have never lost my hat yet” will be the usual response. This tells us much more about the speaker than the subject, and does not cast them in a good light!
[This is an example of the “I have never broken my arm therefore my arm is unbreakable” hypothesis. Easily disproved by the classic “Wack with an iron bar” experiment.]
A friend of mine carries a length of spare paracord spiralled around the foliage loops of his boonie hat. This actually improves the ability to retain foliage.
With the correct choice of paracord pattern/colour, this helps break‑up the regular shape of the foliage band, which is typically made of a single colour strap.
This page has an interesting modification for hats. I have been unable to locate a sufficient-sized piece of luminous material, so do not know if this modification will trap perspiration.
The luminous part could be used for signalling, or the hat worn inside‑out when you need to be visible.
A modification of this idea is to only sew the piece of material on three sides, creating a pocket in your hat. This may be done with non‑luminous material, of course.
The most practical thing I can think to keep in such a pocket is a spare bandanna. When in the pocket it provides extra insulation and a little bit of padding.
The bandanna may be used for signalling, or camouflage, depending on colour carried.

Havelocks and Pugrees

When necessary, a bandanna or keffiyeh may be used as a havelock.
A havelock is a flap of cloth that covers the back of the neck. It will be familiar from the iconic image of a French foreign legionary. They are also seen being used by Second World War Japanese soldiers.
While on the topic of fairly rare, hat related terms, a mention of the pugree.
The pugree (in this context) was a piece of cloth wound around a pith helmet or solar topee. Often these were just decorative, but some versions had a “tail” that could be used as a face covering, or just to mop sweat from the face.
The idea could be adapted to other forms of headgear.

Improvised Headwear

If you do not have a hat with you, a keffiyeh or bandanna may be used to good effect as an improvised head covering. A trick I have used a couple of times in both cold and sunny conditions.
A bandanna may also be used as a sweatband to keep perspiration out of your eyes. This may be used with a hat or on its own.
Categories
Barata

Palms: A Handy Measuring Tool

Over my decades of writing this blog, I have learned a number of useful things.
Some of them are useful in everyday life, rather than being strictly emergency or self-defence skills.
How to count to twelve on one hand
One example I often use is the technique of counting on finger bones rather than fingers. Using this method it is possible to count to twelve with one hand, or to 72 or 156 using both.
Somewhere along the line I learnt the trick of counting in fours.
I used to group things into threes when counting. Fours is more efficient, and it is easy to group fours into larger groups of twelve, sixteen or twenty for a quick total.
The count of larger groupings may be combined with the finger bone counting method. Eight twenties and three left? 163.
Some readers may have noticed that in my later writings I have tried to utilize anthropic measurements when this is clearer.
“Three body lengths” distance is much easier to visualize than six metres, seven yards or 21 feet.
Similarly, instructing someone to place their feet two foot-lengths or a shoulder-width apart compensates for varying body sizes, so more useful than giving an exact value in inches, feet, yards, centimetres or metres.
Today’s idea derives from my fictional measuring system, which was eventually used in my novel “Anatopismo”.
In this system there was a sub-unit called the “vingt” that was a sixth of a standardized cubit, or a twentieth of a standard double pace.
Only recently did it occur to me that the vingt was very close to the width of a human palm.

Palms

Many cultures have used units of measure based on or named after the palm. Some are based on the palm width, others on the hand length.
In this article, “palm” should be understood to refer to palm width.
Logically enough, the palm is often subdivided into four “digits” (finger breadths).
Some definitions of the palm are as being the width of four digits, rather than the width of the palm.
What is interesting is how the palm width correlates with a number of other body-based units of measure.
A cubit distance
As alluded to above, a cubit is around six palms. A double pace is around 20 palms, so a single pace is around ten palms.
A cubit approximates a shoulder-width, so a shoulder width is approximately six palms or 24 finger-breadths.
Two cubits, or twelve palms is approximately the distance from the finger tips to the nose if you hold your hand out to the side. This is approximately a yard, and cloth was sometimes measured out using this method. Hence the term “clothyard”. 13 palms, or two cubits and a palm is about a metre. Since most of us are under six foot tall, these “yards” and “metres” will be a little short.
Four cubits, or 24 palms, is approximate to an arm-span (approximately a fathom), which can be taken as equivalent to a body-length. An arm-span is a handy way to measure cordage.
Use your quick maths tricks here.
To multiply by six, triple and double the result.
Multiply by 24, triple and double three times (keeping count on your finger bones!). Multiply by 20, double and add a nought, and so on.
A seconds pendulum is about 99 cm. If you need to time something, use a cord half a digit less than half an arm-span plus a palm long.
I am not suggesting you throw away your tape measures and rulers.
Knowing the relationship between digits, palm widths and cubits can provide you with a useful “personal approximating” system.
If you are consistent with whose hand you use and how you measure, these units can have an acceptable level of accuracy.
If using this system to make something, I suggest you remember the maxim of “measure twice and cut once”. In practice, measure several times, and err on the side of caution. Trimming down is easier than adding material back!
Where across the palm should you use for measuring?
Personally, I go across where the fingers join the palm, from the outside of the bottom joint of the first finger to the outside of the bottom joint of the little finger. It is easier to measure in digits on this line too.
A palm width is approximately three inches or 7.5 cm. A digit is therefore approximately three-quarters of an inch, or 18-20 mm.
My palm is about 83 mm or 3.25 inches, making my average digit a shade under 21 mm. I am 1.8 metres tall, which makes me more than two palms under 24.
Like I have already said, this is an approximation system.

Paces

A double pace

Paces are more useful for longer horizontal distances.
A double pace, by the above, is 20 palms or three and a third cubits.
More usefully, this means ten cubits are three double paces.
Five body-lengths is six double paces.
Some older Russian Mosin-Nagant rifles may be found with sights graduated in arshin.
Arshin is defined as the distance from the shoulder to fingertips, but is often treated as being a single pace. Interestingly, that is one and a half cubits, which would make a double pace three cubits.
Actual paces are very variable, depending on speed, terrain, body size, age, disability, fatigue and other factors.
My current double pace is about 1.17 metres/46 inches, which is about 14 to 15 palms, depending what value of palm I use.
I have to walk with a cane these days.
I tried measuring between the points my walking cane contacted the ground, and got a value of about 33 inches/ 83 cm (10 palms), which shows how much a pace can vary.
Over any distance, my double pace probably averages around two cubits, which is a convenient value.
Categories
Barata

Practical EDC Kit

When it comes to EDC/survival/emergency kits, I think it is safe to say that many people just are not getting it.
EDC kits should be available
An excellent example was an LBE/webbing pouch designed specifically to carry a survival tin.
What is wrong with that?
One of the likely events that will put you on emergency status is becoming separated from your rucksack, webbing or jacket.
Yes, my rucksacks, coats and jackets contain emergency items.
These are intended as a supplement to my EDC/emergency kit, and are not the primary kit itself.
There is not a perfect answer.
Jackets may be taken off, packs put down, hats get lost.
The clothing item that I am least likely to be separated from is my trousers. Thus, my primary EDC items are in my trouser pockets, or in pouches on the trouser belt.
Luckily, I am not subject to any stupid work dress codes, so trousers means those with thigh cargo pockets.

What, No Survival Tin?

No, I don’t carry a survival tin.
I want my EDC items easily accessible so I can use them if needed. Try wrestling with a yard of tape in the wind with an injured bleeding finger.
The supposed advantage that you can boil a tiny amount of water in the tin to sterilize something is marginal at best.
I do not want a hard item banging against my thigh as I walk, and digging into me if I sit down or fall.
Lid as a mirror? Most survival tin lids that I have seen will require a lot of polishing. You can easily buy a better item, saving you a lot of time for a very small amount of money.
The best thing you can do with a survival tin is empty the contents out and use them to stock a better EDC kit as will be described.
Many of the tin items need to be in karger quantities anyway.
Use the tin to pack something fragile in your backpack.

Practical EDC Kit

Much of this has been covered in previous blogs. There have been some updates, reorganisations and additions since I first wrote those page.
A friend requested I bring the updated information together in one place.

Trouser Belt

The trouser belt that I use is a rigger’s belt. This could be used with the carabineer I carry my keys on.
Main reason for having a rigger’s belt is that unlike my previous belt, it does not have a buckle that damages my tee-shirts.
The kit is spread across several locations, rather than all the “eggs in one basket”.

Left Thigh Cargo Pocket

Within a large zip lock bag, a little zippered pouch, mainly containing medical items.
EDC Pouch Contents
This pouch also contains many smaller items such as
• Safety pins
• Paper clips
• Two colours of chalk
• A pencil
• Two birthday cake candles
• One sailmaker’s sewing needle wrapped with invisible thread
• Dental floss
• Ultra minimal fishing kit of six spans of braided line and 22 fishing hooks.
• Space blanket. Few traditional survival tins have these, but potentially one of most useful items you can carry in your pocket. Mine fits inside the zippered pouch. If yours does not, put it in a plastic bag or its original packaging.
A good idea is to buy space blankets in bulk and add one to each of your rucksacks and outdoor coats. Keep some in your vehicle and so on.
I have added my little button compass to this pouch, purely because it may be of some use here, while it is of none sitting in my gear box.
The large zip lock bag is reinforced with duct tape so could be used to carry water or for other purposes.

Right Thigh Cargo Pocket

• A zip lock bag of tissues/toilet paper.
• Some additional cordage of various types, since the left side pocket was getting bulky.
• A Sharpie, or some other pen that can write on most things.
• A ballpoint pen. I have a Zebra pen, but any type that will not get broken in your pocket.
• A “thumb” flashlight.
• A pen-shaped window breaker, which includes a handcuff key.
• An insect head net. I use the British Forces Mosquito/Midge Micro Head Net (NSN 8415-99-519-8268), since it is compact, and costs less than a pint of beer. May be used as a carrying bag or a net for shrimp and small fish (bait). This could be an EDC item or part of the up-levelling if heading to the wilds.
• Supply of personal medication.

Left Side Pocket

• One bandanna
• One disposable-type lighter in waterproof case, with some duct tape wrapped around lighter body.
• Two two-metre bootlaces or lengths of paracord.
• Hank of cotton string: conserves paracord and may be used as tinder.

Right Side Pocket

Keyring Tool Kit for EDC

Coins, but seldom enough to buy anything.
Carabiner key ring on belt hanger above pocket. My keys are always with my trousers, never in a jacket or bag. The logic of this should be clear by now.
Key ring includes the “split ring tool kit” detailed in the recent article: SAK Rambler, photon light copy, whistle, paperclip, P51 can-opener.

Small Pouch on Trouser Belt

Suunto CLipper Compass

• Debit card
Ear plugs in small plastic box they came in
• Small magnifier loupe
Mirror in case with laminated Morse reminder card and Fresnel lens inside.
• Small set of EDC lock picks.
Tubular spectacles retaining cord. Moved to this pouch from the left pocket so that it does not get mixed-up with the other cordage.
Because I am a bit of a magpie, a few found hairpins and paperclips have ended up in this pouch.
I used to carry a USB drive here, but use the cloud more these days.
My usual “bug-out coat”, and the soft-core pack in any rucksac I might be carrying, both contain larger baseplate compasses.
It is surprising how often the Clipper compass has proved useful in towns, however.
Budget Baseplate compass
If you do not have a Clipper, the smaller budget versions of baseplate compasses are more useful than tiny button compasses. A compass is much more useful with a movable bezel.

Repurposed Mobile Phone Case on Trouser Belt

Customized Swiss Army Ranger with pocket clip

• Mini-Leatherman P4 Squirt
• Diamond impregnated metal sharpening card
• “Widgy” three‑inch prybar.
[I am a tool whore! Guilty]
The Ranger contains a number of useful additional items, including a ferro-rod toggle, sewing needle and line, pen, pin, tweezers, toothpick/tick remover and a magnet.
You could add a wire-saw here. I find it more comfortable to carry mine in a pocket of my bug-out parka.

Mobile Phone

Worn on trouser belt in another pouch.
My phone is pretty useless, but does have a flashlight mode.
If you have a smartphone, it may have useful things such as a compass and GPS. Chances are the reason you are in trouble is you didn’t look up from your phone!
The above is my personal kit and provided for guidance. There is no point having lock picks nor sharpening items unless you know how to use them. [although I have written enough articles explaining how]. Likewise, cordage requires a knowledge of knots.
If you are still in the bloom of youth, you probably do not need a magnifier to read package labels [yet!]
All of this EDC is pretty easily transferred across when I change trousers. Only one pouch needs threading onto the belt rather than clipping on.
Back pocket is a little wallet of cards and useful numbers and a comb. Nothing really of survival use.
The above kit fits any trousers with thigh pockets. No need for extra pockets nor anything fancy.

Up‑Levelling

If I expected to be heading to the wilds, I might add some additional elements to the EDC. These items will mainly go in the right thigh pocket.
A zip lock bag containing a larger quantity of tissues/toilet paper would be likely. This is an additional supply of emergency bumph. The soft-core pack that will be in my rucksack includes a full roll of toilet paper and a bottle of hand sanitizer with it.
If not already there, I would add the insect head net. Biting insects range from nuisance to life threatening. Given the low price and minimal bulk, you would be foolish not to have an insect head net in your EDC if you can.
I would probably expand my fishing capability with several trot lines, each of six spans of braided fishing line with swivels already tied in place. A container of hooks on leaders, some with lures such as mackerel feathers.
One or more ten-metre spools of picture hanging wire for making traps. You could make these up beforehand, but there is a chance you might encounter a cop or ranger who wants to be a dick and classes ready-made snares as intent.
To the above, I can also add the belt holding my kukri, Mora and a pouch holding a fire kit and sharpening stone.
I was intending to attach this belt to my trouser belt using press-stud keepers. The weight probably carries better worn down on the hips, however.
A handgun could be added to this belt where such was permissible.
Categories
Phillosoph

The Case for Insect Head Nets

We tend to associate mosquitoes with the tropics.
During summer in Alaska, however, caribou can lose a pint of blood a day to mosquitoes. This may prove fatal to the younger or weaker caribou.
Little wonder AFM 64.5 (1952) recommends:
Arctic: In the winter, in addition to the essentials recommended above, carry a sleeping bag, parka, mittens, snowshoes, or skis, and mukluks. In summer don't forget mosquito netting and repellent, extra clothing (socks especially) and shoepacs. Wear sunglasses when sun is high on snow surface. Keep feet dry, summer and winter.
Then there are the diseases and parasites that mosquitoes carry. Mosquitoes are probably the greatest man-killers on the planet, after humans themselves.
And not to forget midges, horse flies, black flies, tsetse and a variety of other biting insects.
Biting insects can range from a nuisance to life‑threatening.
I have dozens of recommended kit lists, and several of them include an insect repellent wipe in a sachet. One wipe is not going to last long.
I have a bottle of insect repellent in my travelling bag, but I am well aware that it is a finite resource. Some insects dislike it more than others.
Many kit lists do not mention insect head nets.
Insect head net worn over hat
A good insect head net will probably cost you less than a pint of beer. They weigh practically nothing, and take up very little space.
You have to ask yourself why you would not have at least one?
You can even keep an insect head net in your skin-level EDC, helping pad the other items in a cargo pocket.
There are numerous brands of insect net, but one bag of fine mesh is pretty much like another. You might like to try out one of the cheaper options before you part with a wad of hard‑earned cash.
The main criteria to look for is that the net be black or some other dark colour.
Lighter colours will reflect light and be harder to see clearly through.
A few people have suggested light mesh as a camouflage eye covering in snow or desert. This is why it is probably not a good idea.
The insect net in my EDC is a British Forces Mosquito/Midge Micro Head Net (NSN 8415-99-519-8268).
This head net is 45 cm deep, and 45 cm at its widest, tapering down to 16 cm at the closed end. It will fit over most headgear, has a neck drawcord, and is “olive” in colour. The olive is dark enough to see through.
British forces insect head net
If you have added an insect head net to your kit, it is reasonable to consider what other uses it may be put to.
• The insect head net is a large mesh bag, probably with a drawcord. It can be used as an emergency carrying bag.
I would not recommend it for heavy or dense items, but if you come across a thicket of ripe blackberries…
You could also tie it to the outside of your pack and use it to let your wet socks dry.
• A head net could be used as an improvised fishing net. It may be sufficient to catch shrimp and the sort of small fish that can be used as bait for something bigger.
• An insect head net may be used as a pre-filter to remove debris and large material from water before you heat or chemical treat it. Use several folds of material.
I have seen it suggested that an insect head net may be used as a filter or strainer for making tea or coffee.
It should be obvious [hopefully], that these applications are not suitable for a mesh treated with agents such as permethrin.
• Eyes are a difficult area to camouflage. You can do artistic things with camo‑cream but the white of the eye (sclera) and the iris colour remain.
Camo cream is of no use for eyes
Eyeglasses may reflect the light and draw attention.
A dark‑coloured insect head net can help with this. The insect head net should be combined with other measures such as a camouflaged head covering and facial covering.
Categories
Barata

Survival Sewing

“Military men make good husbands. They already know how to clean, sew and take orders.”
A few years ago my girlfriend was running a café. This turned out to be a surprisingly brutal and cut-throat business. We should have heeded the words of Charles Grodin’s character in “Midnight Run”.
One of the better memories was the sewing nights.
“Sewing” is probably not one of the first things that comes to mind when you consider heavy metal, but all those patches have to get on jackets somehow.
A group of friends would hire the café for an evening and sit sewing.
It was a highly talented, artistic and creative bunch of people, so these nights were always entertaining.
One of the newer members commented after her first visit: “I cannot recall the last time I just sat and just talked.”
Which is an interesting comment, and possibly a sad reflection on the current phone‑obsessed culture.
I do not recall personally doing any sewing on those nights, but have been known to wield a needle at times.
Often this was when travelling. It seems like buttons and seams wait until you have left the country before they loosen.
I recently added some extra pockets to a coverall. My girlfriend remarked at how neat the stitching appeared. That surprised me, since for a camouflaged item I was not attempting to be particularly neat.
My sewing is entirely self-taught, there being no youtube nor websites back when I started.
Here are a few things I have learnt along the way that may be worth passing on:
Finishing with a one-way weave
Finishing a seam with a one-way weave.
• Overly long threads are wasted motion. Having to make wider arm movements for every stitch soon adds up.
Sewing with shorter lengths of thread is less fatiguing.
As a general guide, a thread should be no longer than the distance between your shoulders. It is also probably stronger to secure a cloth with several shorter sections of thread rather than on long one.
The most notable exception to the above are the needles in my emergency kits. These are pre‑threaded with about a two foot of doubled “invisible” thread.
• Needles would often become undone when I sewed. My solution was simply to use a doubled thread, the ends joined in a simple overhand knot.
The only drawback to this technique is a higher probability of the thread getting tangled and knotted. This can be reduced if the two threads are allowed to untwist every half‑dozen or so stitches.
• Perhaps I was using the wrong knot? I have looked for advice on tying single threads to needles, but have yet to find anything useful.
Judging by some of the sewing sites online, many seamstresses do not bother knotting thread to needle and simply hold the thread in the eye with their thumb. I have started using this method on the rare occasions that I need to sew with a single thread.
Once you've got about an inch of thread "out the other side" let go of the needle and pinch both threads between your thumb and forefinger, *then* pull. This reduces wear and tear on the thread where it goes through the eye (which with linen can wear out before you run out of thread 😉), it gives you finer control over thread tension, and it reduces the tendency for the thread to slip out the eye of the needle.
• I have been known to use a blanket stitch at times, but a lot may be done with a simple running stitch. I will often sew and seam and then go back on it, placing the second set of stitches between the spaces between the first. This is simple, strong, and looks relatively neat.
• I sew buttons with doubled thread. Even smarter is to use quadruple thread! Fold the thread in two and pass the loop through the needle eye. Place the loop and the two ends together and tie into an overhand.
• On the subject of knots:
The “fingertip” method allows you to rapidly tie an overhand/stop knot. This can become handy for applications other than sewing.
• I used to pride myself that I could thread a needle.
Years later, it is harder to see.
Now I often use threading aids. I have even added one to my ultra-compact travel sewing kit.
Threading Tool
This is a flat lightweight piece of metal with a hook at each end, not as fragile as the type that use a rhomboid of wire.
These flat metal threading tools are roughly finished, so benefit from a little sanding or filing to smooth the edges.
I brought a bag of ten or so and added the others to my home sewing kit.
Fine wire or thread may be used as an improvised threading aid.
Threading aids work by pulling a loop of thread through the eye. This is a clue for how to thread a needle when you do not have a threading aid.
Try to push a loop of thread through the eye rather than the possibly frayed end.
My EDC and travel kits now include a number of devices that have magnifying lenses.
• Thread ends are sometimes easier to burn down with a lighter than cut off.

Home Sewing Kit

I have described my main travel sewing kit elsewhere. This fits in a little six by one centimetre plastic tube. If anything, it is a little too compact.
I have to pack it carefully so it does not become lost within larger bags. Usually it is in a ziplock bag along with other repair items such as spare rucksack buckles, superglue and tape.
My other emergency sewing kits are even smaller.
Each is a single needle, threaded and wrapped in invisible thread. One is taped to the side of the pencil in my pocket pouch. The other is under the saw of my Swiss Army Ranger.
At home, I have a much more extensive kit, most of which fits in a re‑purposed plastic box that originally had cakes or ice cream in it.
Such a home kit can be easily and cheaply stocked up.
Pound shops/dollar stores often have card‑mounted sewing kits with dozens of items. A couple of these give an assortment of coloured threads, pins, safety pins, needles, tape measures, thimbles and other items.
These are adequate for many applications.
Some needles in these kits come with incredibly small eyes. Make sure you own some needles that you can actually thread!
An X-Actio Knife
The little scissors with these sets are generally not much good. (Few scissors are better than those on Swiss Army knives. My spare Classic SD may end up in the sewing box)
Add a sharp‑edged tool or two to your kit, a seam‑ripper and/or pointed or curved scalpel/X-Acto blade, blackboard chalk for marking, and a disposable lighter.
My kit also includes some EMT shears that were surplus to requirements and a couple of razor‑sharp small folding knives.
The emergency sewing kits that some hotels give away to guest for the asking are worth acquiring should you come across them.
I suggest you also acquire a few upholstery and sailmaker’s needles.
One of the smaller straight needles can go in your travel kit and is useful for tougher materials. At least one rucksack of mine has been repaired with such a needle using dental floss.
The curved and other straight needles go in your home sewing box.
I also have some surgical needles, about a centimetre long and either straight or curved. These have proved useful at times.
Magnifying lenses and/or tweezers might be another useful addition to your box. I usually have these nearby on a workbench if I need them.
Categories
Barata

Best EDC Tools: Split-ring Tool Kit

I recently read a webpage where the author jokingly referred to his “take anywhere, always ready EDC tool kit”.
This was a split ring that rode on his keyring. On that ring was a Photon II LED light, a 58mm Swiss Army knife, and a P51.
I had a quiet chuckle, since I have essentially the same kit on my keyring.

Keyring Tool Kit

My keyring is an unlocked carabiner. Items can easily be added or removed.
It hangs from the ring of the key-hanger over my right front trouser pocket.
The carabiner itself is a useful tool. I recently used it as a handle for an overly filled shopping bag.
Keyring Tool Kit for EDC
P51, Photon light, SAK Rambler and whistle above the bottle-opener

Whistle

The most obvious difference is that my keyring kit also includes a whistle.
This is a thin brass tube that came with a cheap hollow-handled survival knife my brother had back in the 80s.
Technically speaking, it is better to have a non-metallic whistle for if temperatures drop below zero. Very cold metal sticks to flesh. (I have a number of plastic whistles with other items of gear such as the soft-core pack and German Army parka.)
I stick with the brass whistle on my keyring, since I have not encountered a non-metallic whistle that is as compact. If the inside of my trousers get that cold it may be too late to whistle for help.
If I really needed a keyring whistle for arctic conditions, I could probably make one from wood or scrap plastic.

Light

My Photon light is a knock-off, since I am a cheap bastard and got about a dozen for a fraction of the price of an original.
Gave some of those to friends.
Another is with my lock pick pouch.
The remaining lights give enough spares and batteries for mine to last me decades.
That said, my pseudo-photon still lights with its original batteries, and must be at least ten years old.

Rambler Swiss Army Knife

My keyring has a 58mm Swiss Army knife, and some readers will know I recently replaced my old Classic SD with the Rambler.
The Classic SDs are great, but I really recommend the Rambler.
The Rambler comes with the 58mm version of a combo-tool. This has a wire-bender/stripper, cap-lifter and magnetic Phillips screwdriver.
Capability to handle Phillips‑head screws is one of the few shortfalls of my SAK Ranger. The 3 mm screwdriver on the can opener can handle some Phillips screws, and the point of the nail-file might work.
My mini-Leatherman has a short, flat pointed tool that is intended for Phillips screws.
However, some screwheads are at the bottom of narrow screw wells.
The Rambler has a 3D Phillips screwdriver that has more reach and is better suited to narrow places than the Ranger and mini-Leatherman tools. The Rambler Phillips works with the tiny screws in the photon light.
The Rambler works with the Ranger in much the same way my Mora and kukri do.
The Rambler is easier to get at than the Ranger, so gets used for most jobs, which generally do not need a larger knife. Using the Rambler instead keeps the Ranger in good condition for when it is really needed, and decreases the chance of the Ranger getting lost.
The Rambler gives me two screwdrivers, scissors, a nail-file, a small blade, a bottle-opener, wire‑stripper/bender, toothpick and tweezers.
If I choose to carry a knife other than the Ranger, the Rambler on my keyring means I still have available to me some of the most useful capabilities of a penknife.
Being on my keyring, the Rambler and the other tools on the ring are readily available and immediately to hand. Thus, they see more use than items in pouches, pockets, or tucked in wallets.
Being with your keys, this is the tool set you are most likely to have with you when you need a tool.
Tools left at home in a cupboard or in your truck are not so useful.

P51 Can-Opener

The final object on that split-ring is a P51 can-opener. You can open a can with a Rambler/Classic SD, but a P51 is easier.
The P51 is the bigger brother of the famous P38 mini-can-opener. Some jobs were too much for the little P38, so the P51 was created.
Contrary to what you may read on many websites, the basic design dates back to at least 1924.
The P38 is about 38 mm/1.5 inches long, and has a hole in one of the “top” corners. The P51 is about 51 mm/2 inches long and has its hole at the bottom end.
P38 and P51 Can-Openers
P38 and P51 Can-Openers
Of the two types, I recommend the P51, since it has more leverage and is less fiddly, for a barely noticeable increase in size.
If you find the hook blade tends to catch on things, wrap a few centimetres of duct tape around it. The duct tape itself may prove useful.
There are whole webpages describing the various uses a P38/P51 may be put to.
Some of my favourites include:
Pry-bar suitable for opening paint tins and similar
Improvised screwdriver
Box cutter/letter opener
Fingernail cleaner
Measuring gauge
Improvised fishing lure
Scraper for ice
May be easily modified into a ferro-rod striker.
The P51 covers many of the applications that the Rambler does not.
For some jobs it is quicker to bring the P51 into action than to unfold a SAK blade.

Bottle-Opener

On its own ring on the keyring is a bottle‑opener.
The Ranger has a bottle‑opener, the Rambler has a bottle‑opener. The mini‑Leatherman has a bottle‑opener. With a little fiddling, I have opened bottles with the P51. Why do I need yet another bottle‑opener?
A while back I was at a party. Plenty of beer bottles, but bottle‑openers were in short supply.
I lent my Swiss Army knife to some people, but this made me nervous.
Several times have I lent items out and they have proved so useful they were never returned.
I added a “loaner” bottle‑opener to my keyring so in future I would not have to offer more prized tools. It is also quicker to use than the penknives, since nothing needs unfolding.

Other Items

A couple of other minor items may also be found on my keyring.
A paperclip is a useful bit of wire with several possible uses. Push resets of electrical devices. Eject stuck DVDs and computer discs. Can be used to shim or pick handcuffs.
There is a little key from a luggage padlock. This can open many small warded locks.
There is also a short length of insulated wire (not shown in photo) to bridge electrical circuits.

Conclusion

So there you have it.
One split ring, four(ish) tools.
A tool kit that will nearly always be with you and offers a wide range of useful capabilities.
This is a very good starting point for creating your EDC. Add some cordage and a lighter to your pocket and you have taken a big step in the right direction.
Procuring these items will not break the bank. Adding such a kit to your keyring is within most people’s means.
Categories
Barata

Hanbo for Training

Fighting with Canes
Due to legal or personal restrictions, many people do not carry weapons with them as a matter of course.
Those that do often lack sufficient tactical understanding in their use.
Many victims have been killed or injured because they were attempting to draw or ready a weapon rather than deal with the incoming attack first. Many police officers have been killed by dying attackers they had successfully shot and fatally wounded. The attacker still lived long enough to take the cop with them.
This is why a familiarity of empty‑hand skills, particularly parrying and evasion, is needed.

Improvised Weapons

Knowing empty‑hand techniques does not mean you should not arm yourself if you have time and opportunity.
Many such weapons will be objects from your immediate environment. Things that you can throw, parry or hit with. Objects that can be placed between the enemy’s weapon and your own tender flesh.
The best training weapons are those that closely match what is likely to be available as an improvised weapon when an attack occurs.
Mastering a broadsword, sai, nunchakus or quarterstaff has only limited utility, since most objects available as improvised weapons will be blunter and smaller.
Swagger stick fighting

Hanbo

One of the first training weapons you should acquire is a hanbo.
In his book “Stick Fighting”, Masaaki Hatsumi tells us a jo is 4 feet 23/16 inches and 7/8 inches in diameter, and that a hanbo is 2 feet 113/4 inches or “walking stick” length.
Based on this, I ordered a 7/8 inch diameter oak dowel, one metre long.
It can be considered as either a short jo or long hanbo. I am taller than most feudal Japanese, so a metre is about the right “walking stick” length for me.
Later, it occurred to me than since a hanbo is “half a roshakubo” it perhaps should have been the same diameter as a bo, which Hatsumi gives as 11/16th inches.
Hanbos available on-line are offered in 24 mm and 27 mm diameters and jos as 15/16.
I am quite happy with 7/8 inch diameter as a training tool, however, since the light weight makes it a little swifter and more agile.

Making a Hanbo

The oak dowel needed very little work.
Using a penknife reamer I made a small depression in the centre of each end. This was mainly to help get the ends symmetrical. It gives the ends a “hollow‑point” look which I quite like.
I rounded the ends of the dowel. I started this with a sander bit on a Dremel, but most of the work was done manually with sandpaper.
Once this was done, the entire length was manually sanded. Run the shaft through your hands a few times, further sanding any spots that need it.
Lastly, boiled linseed oil was applied with a piece of kitchen towel. After about an hour, I applied some more oil. The oil will take 24 to 48 hours to fully dry and cure.

Training

Training with a hanbo can be educational.
As I have previously mentioned, many self‑defence techniques that are taught do not work if the enemy has a knife or other weapon.
The tip of a hanbo is faster than many empty‑hand attacks, so it is a good tool to test your defensive moves against.
Try countering a hanbo strike with an actually block. Blocks match strength against strength. The hanbo is harder than flesh and has no pain receptors.
Use the cross‑block to counter a thrust from the hanbo. Even if it is successful, the hanbo user may easily move the tip up and strike down on the bones of the blocking arms.
Parrying against hanbo attacks may be more practical.
You should, however, have some practices where the hanbo plays a sword. This means the defender may not touch the hanbo “blade” or they are “cut”. This is very good training for honing your evasion skills such as inquartata, V-stepping, ginga, body‑rolling and bow and slip.
Parrying is always preferable to blocking. Evading an attack is always preferable to parrying.
Practising against a “sword” helps improve one’s counter-offensive footwork. You will need to get past the weapon without the blade touching and “injuring” you. Following the principle of “Meet the Meat”, you need to reach a body part of the “swordsman” that you can attack.
Try your baton or nightstick moves with a hanbo. The added length provides more inertia, testing your control and improving your strength and dexterity. Performing abanicos with the hanbo will build wrist strength.
The hanbo may be used to practise staff-fighting moves too. Practising indoors with a full-size staff can be hazardous to the fixtures and fittings. A hanbo is less so, but one should still be mindful of one’s surroundings. Awareness in itself is a defensive skill.
One interesting thing I have found is that manipulating the hanbo one‑handed seems to move the end faster and more forcefully than trying to wield it two‑handed like a katana. Is this because when using one hand I tend to use Filipino wrist roll and circling techniques that need a relaxed hand?
Once the oil has cured, I will have to experiment further.

Recommended Reading

I have already mentioned “Stick Fighting” by Masaaki Hatsumi. The majority of the book is lock and throwing techniques. The reader should pay attention to the statement on p.31: “Do not be in too much of a hurry to apply a throwing or arm-entanglement action but defend yourself with one of the Basic Movements until a suitable opportunity presents itself”
This is a good approach to defence in general. Neutralise the guard or offensive, hit the core, and takedown when possible.
The “Basic Movements” in Hatsumi’s book are strikes at the hand or jabs at targets on the centreline: chin [throat], ribs and solar plexus.
Since evasive footwork will should take you to the side of an attacker, centreline targets may not be readily accessible. Familiarise yourself with other target areas more accessible from the side.
“The Filipino Martial Arts as taught by Dan Inosanto” is another recommended book, useful for learning the basic stick manipulations.
“Attack, Avoid, Survive” and “Crash Combat” both include detailed information on stick techniques.
Lessons in Sabre, Singlestick, Sabre & Bayonet and Sword Feats” by J. M. Waite is the best book on sword use that I have encountered. “Cold Steel” by Alfred Hutton is also worth reading, although I have reservations about some of the parrying techniques he shows.