Tag: equipment

British Army Mess Tins

Post author By losophyp
Post date 30 March 2025

Many decades ago, back in my student days, I was cooking something one weekend. I had decided to make a sauce to go with my meal, so I needed to brown some flour.

Running short of pans, I put into service a set of British Army mess tins I had with my collection of camping items.

As the flour browned, there was a sudden flash of silver. What looked suspiciously like molten solder appeared at the bottom of a pan! British Army mess tins

Needless to say, I decided to do without my sauce, and the mess tins too.

It was many decades before I even considered getting another set of British Army mess tins. Authors such as Kephart had sold me on the wisdom of having a cooking vessel you could hang above a fire when needed.

I was in no hurry to get a new set, since I don’t actually rate the design that highly.

One website gloated that a design that has been in service for 70 years must be good, oblivious to the fact that they had already noted the 37-pattern replaced a design that had been in use for 150 years. Sadly, armies often keep bad stuff in service for a long time too!

About the only virtue of the British Army mess tins was they were a good shape to fit inside a pouch or rucksack side‑pocket.

Given the tendency of many soldiers to overload their belts, that is a questionable virtue at best.

However, I felt that my series of articles on mess kits was not really balanced unless these the British Army mess tins were included.

The British Army mess tins were introduced as part of the 1937 pattern equipment. Prior to this, the British soldier had used a D-section pail-type mess kit much like that which continued to be used by most other armies.

Interestingly, the mess tins were originally intended as a pack-carried item rather than belt kit.

Early issues of the 37 pattern were aluminium.

During the Second World War, a version made from tin-plated mild steel was issued to conserve aluminium reserves for other purposes such as aircraft manufacture.

Around 1944, aluminium mess tins began to be issued again, and this is the material that has been used for post-war issue.

There are minor differences between the pre-1944 and post-1944 aluminium, but for convenience I will call both 37/44 pattern.

When researching this blog, I came across someone trying to sound clever saying they preferred the stainless steel version when they could find them. There was no stainless steel British Army 37/44-pattern mess tin issued.

Many British Army influenced nations copied the design.

The Indian version was oval and had the handles on the longest side. This may have been more practical with respect to handling and cleaning.

Another notable variation was the Australian version, which had sideways-folding handles and was shallower. Australian mess tins

Copies, often of less quality materials, were also manufactured. For many years I assumed that this was the explanation for my melting example. Now I learn more about the topic, I wonder if I had purchased some wartime tinned examples. I seem to recall they may have had “fullers” in the sides.

I recall reading that the way to identify a “knock-off” was to try to push in one side. If it popped out again, it was legit. If the dent stayed, it was not.

Tales from the Supply Depot is a good source for the variations between different models. He offers the advice:

“These tins are very easily available, having been made continuously for over seventy years, and can be bought for a few pounds- the metal is far thicker and better quality than the cheap copies sold in camping shops so even if you are not a collector it is more sensible to invest in a second hand military set rather than a new civilian set as these are almost indestructible!”

Tales from the Supply Depot

Description

The 37/44 pattern consists of two rectangular pans with folding handles and rounded corners. One pan is slightly smaller than the other and will fit inside the larger. The smaller pan may be carried either bottom up or bottom down.

The pans actually look larger and bulkier than I recalled. The smaller one will comfortably hold a litre of water. The larger pan also takes a litre. You can squeeze nearly 200 mls more in, but the water level will be impractically close to the rim.

The capacity of my set is actually less than the capacity quoted by some vendors.

The two tins nest, although that is not so welcome if you do not have time to clean the outside of the smaller one.

Sometimes the larger tin was carried in the large pack and the smaller tin in a belt pouch or in a smaller backpack.

Some soldiers just made do with a single tin.

Supposably, the metal of the thin handles is a poor conductor of heat, so may be held without the need for gloves or bandana. I would be very cautious trying that.

The handles have no locking mechanism. If moved in certain directions, the handles of the mess tin will suddenly fold, usually dumping the tin’s contents.

Use

In the field, the mess tins were mainly used as simple water boilers.

They were either used to make tea, or to heat up the canned items from the 24 hour “ratpack”. For the latter duty, the cans were placed in the mess tin, water poured into the remaining space and brought to a boil for a few minutes. Using the hot water to make a drink was not recommended since it was contaminated with whatever was on the outside of the cans.

While I was shopping for a set of mess tins, I was bemused to see some vendors claiming they were “easy to clean”.

Many an old soldier would dispute that!

The corners were hard to get clean and the issued hexamine stoves often left the bottoms sooty and covered with hard to shift partially burnt fuel residue.

While “nesting cook kit” sounds like a good feature, the outsides of the inner vessels need to be very clean otherwise they contaminate the insides of the outer pots. You can wrap the inner vessels up, but this may make them too bulky to nest.

Using the mess tin just for water did cut down on some of the cleaning.

This was not the case when a unit was fed from a field kitchen. The mess tins were often the only receptacle available.

Some interesting culinary combinations were experienced as dessert was piled on top of the remains to the main course. Irish stew with custard, anyone?

The mess tins are probably a little large for the uses they were actually put to. That may be why the Australian model was of a lower capacity. The side-folding handles of the Aussie version are a clue to another flaw of the original.

The 37/44 mess tins cannot be hung over an open fire, like the “European”-style pails. The European mess tins are effectively small buckets, while the British mess tins are awkward to carry tea or water any distance.

The British Army mess tins are mainly designed to be used on stoves.

There are ways to use them over an open fire.

Flat‑topped rocks may be employed, although likely to be wobbly.

Bricks or logs with the top hewn flat are another possibility.

Three or four 6 inch nails can also be used.

If you let your fire burn down to coals, pots may be placed directly on the coals.

Digging an L‑shaped hole in the side of a bank and building the fire at the bottom is another option.

Lids for Mess Tins

Combined with the Esbit cooker, the mess tin was not noted as particularly efficient.

The black build up on the bottom of mess tins was common, which may suggest incomplete combustion from using too much fuel.

Often the smaller tin was used as the boiling vessel and the larger tin placed over it to act as a lid.

It was not long before some companies started offering purpose built lids that could be used with the issue mess tins. These could also be used as frying pans, some examples even having non-stick coatings. One company even went as far as offering the mess tins with non-stick interiors too.

Back around the 1980s, many soldiers and survivalists regarded the mess tin lids as an essential bit of kit.

It is rather surprising that such lids are now hard to find.

I have seen a non-stick set of mess tins, but it is not clear if these have the same size and proportions as the issue items.

Lids are much harder to find. I have only found one place offering them. The price was actually quite reasonable, so I purchased an example to test out for this review. Modern mess tin lid

The interior has a black coating, which may be non-stick. I have yet to cook with this item and find out if this is the case.

I got distracted by trying to fit the lid on the mess tins. It would not fit. The lid actually seemed to be a different shape to the large tin.

Careful measuring confirmed that the lid is exactly the same length as the large tin!

The rim of the lid was actually irregular. Perhaps it took a few dings going through the post, but the length of the bottom is still too small.

My current mess tins lack any numbers or identifying symbols, so may not be actual army issue, despite what the seller claimed. On the other hand, they appear brand-new rather than used. Their dimensions seem correct, however, so I suspect the fault is with the lid.

Careful use of a ball-peen hammer reshaped the lid rim so it is slightly bigger than the large tin. This also removed some of the black coating near the edges.

I can fit the lid over the large tin, but when the smaller tin is packed inside the lid will not stay in place unless packed inside a snug 85-pattern water bottle pouch. The handle of the lid is also very tight, and scores the outer surface of the lid when it is pulled out.

Definitely room for a better executed version!

Conclusion

Many regard the British mess tins as a classic. I am not one of them.

Personally, I think the British Army 37/44 pattern mess tin lacks versatility as a field cooking vessel and is somewhat oversized for the uses it is put to.

They are a good illustration of how the needs of a soldier may be very different to a camper or prepper who lacks a comprehensive support infrastructure.

There are some similar smaller cooking vessels that are commercially available, some with lids that fit!

I notice certain vendors are offering “Crusader Mess Tins”. This is an oval shape so hopefully easier to clean. It consists of a single pot with a lid/flying pan. I don’t know if these have become an official issue. The name is an obvious attempt to associate it with the Crusader canteen cups.

Mess Tin Survival Kit

In the first of my Survival Library posts, I recommended Lofty Wiseman’s “SAS Survival Handbook”.

As well as describing the tobacco tin-based survival tin, Wiseman also suggests a “survival pouch”, one of the main components of which is a mess tin into which most of the other components are packed.

Many readers will know that I have a number of criticisms of the traditional survival tin.

I don’t like all my eggs in one basket, nor do I want to carry emergency items by a means I am likely to be separated from. Jackets get taken off, bags get put down. That is why a certain proportion of my gear is in my trouser pockets and pouches on my trouser belt. This is more comfortable than a lumpy tin crammed in a pocket.

One of the criticisms of the survival tin is that the useful stuff it does have, it does not have enough of.

You could do worse than empty the contents of the survival tin into a mess tin, then add greater quantities of the useful stuff. You will need more than a handful of fishing hooks and matches. Why not join the 21st century and carry a lighter rather than matches? A space blanket, whistle, signal mirror, candles and a fresnel lens are all good additions. A mess tin in a pouch can pack a lot of genuinely useful emergency gear.

A mess tin can heat-treat a genuinely useful quantity of water.

The downside of this idea is that a mess tin-based kit is of no use if you stow it in your pack. You have to keep it on your person, and since it is somewhat bulky, this may not suit many of you.

Tags camping, cook-set, cooking, equipment, mess kit, mess tin, military, survival kit

Phillosoph

Coveralls: A Dose of Mono

Post author By losophyp
Post date 27 November 2024

I was watching an episode of MacGyver where they break into a museum to steal a jade dragon. No gloves, and they go in through a ventilation duct. All high security buildings have spotlessly clean air ducts large enough to accommodate fully grown men, naturally.

In such a situation, I think to myself, drab-colour coveralls would probably a very good idea.

After the heist, the coveralls may be discarded to eliminate forensic evidence and change appearance. Anyone who looks like they have been crawling through dirty air ducts is going to draw attention.

Also, dressed in drab-coloured “boiler suits”, anyone that does see you may assume they are seeing maintenance or cleaners. You are probably less likely to be challenged than someone in wandering around in civies or a black polo neck.

The approach or departure to the target building may involve moving though rural terrain or parkland. A drab-coloured coverall provides a measure of camouflage in such conditions.

As an aside, I know of an airgunner who used to hunt wearing a pilot's flight suit. It was a single colour, but the loose cut created folds and patches of shade that tended to break up his shape. Fooled the bunnies, anyhow!

Around the same day as I was watching that Macgyver episode, I had been reading one of James White's “Sector General” books.

Implied in the book was that Monitor Corps personnel spend a lot of time wearing coveralls. Since most of the Monitor Corps in the books are spaceship crews or perform maintenance on the hospital station, and changing into environmental suits is fairly common, this makes good sense.

If I was designing a military-style organization from scratch, a range of coveralls for general and working wear seems a good start. Like the Spanish nearly a century ago, it may be found they are useful for field wear too.

That night, a Ghostbusters movie comes on. Dark tan coveralls are their uniform.

Before was an episode of Knight Rider, and it looks like the henchmen are wearing dark blue coveralls with a beret and police belt.

I also watched the Indian movie “Fighter”, where everyone is wearing flight suits, even if they are just cadets marching around the academy grounds.

At least two or three Bond films have the henchman spear-carriers in coveralls.

Synchronicity, or is the universe telling me to write about coveralls?

Coveralls, Overalls, Boiler Suits and Jump Suits

In British English, coverall and overall are essentially interchangeable. Americans reserve “overall” for the bib-and-brace type garment that paradoxically leaves the arms and shoulders uncovered. Brits usually call the latter “dungarees”, not to be confused with the USMC garments of the same name! Mia Goth demonstrates American overalls don't cover all below:

“Boiler suit” is another term for a coverall, unless aircrew are wearing them, when they become flight suits. Jumpsuits tend to be a snugger cut, particularly if used for free-fall jumps.

Honourable mention goes to the siren suits that helped many Brits through the Blitz.

Raider Wear

Another episode of MacGyver features Treasury men raiding a nightclub. This provides the bizarre spectacle of men in suits and ties lugging around a battering ram.

You would think that a “non-uniform” law enforcement organization would have a few “riot coveralls” or “squad suits” for such occasions.

As well as the obvious protective benefits, having a few people in such garb would at least provide some uniformed presence and prevent an operation being mistaken for a mafia outing.

An old Shomer‑Tec catalogue I have describes the Topps Squad Suit as “a rugged, low‑cost, professional‑looking garment that can be worn over, or in place of, a uniform during demanding operations.” and suggests keeping one in a patrol vehicle.

The coverall would need some form of distinction. “Law Enforcement” on a back panel would encompass the needs of most potential users. Velcro patches on sleeves and breast for more specific identification.

Elsewhere I have discussed the influence of police uniform colour on both the wearers and those they interact with. The Topps Squad Suit and many similar items come in black or very dark blue. This would be very uncomfortable in sunny locations, and looks very fascist, which may be counter productive. Dark colours also really show up any dirt.

In many parts of the world many civilians dress dark, so there is a potential for misidentification.

A coverall in police blue-green would be useful, and be an economical way to introduce and experiment with the concept.

Possibly the best single choice is “wolf grey”, as is used already by some police tactical units. As a neutral colour, it offers some concealment in many rural or urban environments and low‑light conditions for when this is needed.

Monos

During the Spanish Civil War, many of the militias were formed from factory workers. Many fought in their work overalls and coveralls, known as “monos”. Monos were found in greys, browns and khakis, but many of those of industrial origin were dark blue. One anti-fascist publication even called itself “El Mono Azul”.

The Soviet Union, Nazi Germany and Italy (among others) supplied the combatants with tanks, aircraft and advisors. Included in the military aid supplied were coveralls for tank crews, air crews and maintenance staff.

Monos became popular, not just for crewmen and technicians, but for front-line use, and not just with the ex-factory workers.

Many Spanish police formations had elaborate duty uniforms that were not suited to hard wear and combat. Police units that traditionally wore blue often selected dark blue monos.

Browns or khaki monos were more common with more conventional military units.

While the fashion of using monos as combat wear probably began with the Republican (left-wing) factory workers, troops on both sides used them.

“Osprey Men-At-Arms 074: The Spanish Civil War 1936‑39” has a number of photos and images of Nationalist (right-wing) troops wearing monos. “Osprey Men-At-Arms 498: The Spanish Civil War 1936‑39 (2) Republican Forces” notes that monos were appreciated for their pocket capacity. An International Brigade veteran recalled his comrades buying new ones before the battle of the Ebro in 1938 (MAA 498 p.44).

The Spanish CIvil War had a number of influences on military fashion, but oddly, the mono was not one.

The US Army did experiment with a one-piece jungle-fighting outfit during World War Two. Dysentery was quite common in such campaigns, so the one-piece was found to be “less than ideal” in such situations!

The Bottom Line

That brings me to a “fundamental” issue when selecting a coverall. Does it have a “bomb‑chute” or not? A number of outdoorsmen who have experimented with one‑piece outfits have failed to consider this feature!

Another common error seems to be attempting to use the pocket capacity for dense items such as water bottles and ammunition. Since coveralls are loose in cut, this often proves uncomfortable.

It occurred to me that a coverall or two might be a useful thing for an individual outdoorsman to have available, too.

Coveralls seem warm for their mass and bulk. This may be because you are trapping a single body of air that can freely circulate, rather than separate masses for the lower and upper body. Clothing riding up on your lower back is less of a problem. Coveralls can also be combined with other warm clothing, either over or under.

I suggest that for general use you buy uninsulated coveralls. It is easier to add more insulation under or over than sweat it out in milder conditions. There should be enough room to wear your coveralls over other garments.

With just a shirt and shorts beneath, a coverall should be comfortable in warmer weather.

Bug‑Out Outfits

In previous posts we have talked about the need to have a bug‑out outfit as well as a bug‑out bag. Something that you can don quickly and easily that will provide some protection from the elements and possibly help conceal you from hostile observation.

Many coveralls meet these criteria and will fit over whatever you might happen to be wearing at the time.

A good coverall usually costs less than a combat jacket. Some police riot coveralls include Goretex as well as being fire‑resistant.

If a coverall is a full‑time addition to your bug‑out kit, you can pack the pockets with useful low density gear: hats, gloves, fire kit, cordage, space blanket, compass, plastic mirror, whistle, earplugs, sun glasses and so forth.

If you are going hiking or hunting, a coverall can ride rolled up in your pack until the terrain gets rough or you are away from civilization.

Coveralls that lack a bomb‑hatch tend to be very reasonable in price, being mass produced by the thousands for painters and mechanics.

The main challenge may be finding a set in a suitable tactical colour. Army surplus outlets often have a selection, some of them being intended for tank, AFV and aircraft crewmen. Most examples are single colour, camouflage patterns in such garments being rarer.

Choice of coveralls “with bomb‑hatch” is narrower. Most of the examples I have seen have been tank- or AFV-coveralls.

My First Coverall

I am not a great fan of MTP, since it tends to blob‑out to a khaki‑drab monotone shape. On the other hand, at closer distances the pattern may make dirt or stains less obvious. I was also a little concerned the sand/beige‑coloured monotone AFV‑coveralls might be a little light for general use. I don't intend this garment as my primary camouflage, but khaki‑drab is probably the ideal monotone for British countryside.

What swung it was the MTP coveralls I was offered were cheaper than most alternatives, and were in flame-retardment material!

When the coverall arrived, I was pleasantly surprised that it was lighter in mass than I expected. I am used to military gear being on the heavy side! The cloth was actually quite soft and comfortable. I would swear it was a good quality poly/cotton, but the label says it is all aramids and other flame‑resistant stuff.

What did puzzle me was the lack of pockets. This example had only two pockets, located on the upper thighs. The examples I had been looking at definitely had chest pockets, among others.

From what I can make out, the British Army currently uses two types of AFV‑coverall.

One type (NSN 8415-99-226-0794) is currently for training only, made from poly/cotton, and of the same design as earlier monotone AFV-coveralls (NSN 8415-99-212-5330), with about a dozen pockets. The exact NATO stock number (NSN) will vary with garment size

The other type, COMBAT FR, MTP for CR2 (NSN: 8415-99-313-5415) is for combat use, made of flame‑retardant materials and of a newer design that has only two pockets!

Because of the camouflage pattern, seeing pocket details can be difficult in on-line photos. The combat coverall has no flaps on the thigh pockets. The training version does, and additional pockets on the chest, hips and lower leg. The older design has a waist drawcord (missing on my example), while the newer uses Velcro waist adjustment.

Pocket detail of the older design is easier to see on photos of the sand/beige‑coloured version.

Sand/Beige AFV-Coveralls showing pocket arrangements

Adding More Pockets

Now, I would rather have pockets and not need them than need them and not have them.

Luckily, I came across a reasonably priced damaged MTP training coverall. The coverall is too small for me, but was designed for someone of my height, so the pockets were be of the right size. Chest size was too small to fit me, but I could salvage the pockets and fit them to my flameproof coverall.

This makes my coverall slightly less flameproof, but I don't drive a tank or an F1 car, and will make an effort to avoid catching fire.

And so I spent a couple of weekends unpicking stitches and sewing pockets onto the newer coverall.

Buy the older pattern poly/cotton “training”coveralls and you can save yourself some sewing.

My coverall now has 15 pockets!

• I added a small internal pocket inside one hip pocket to hold my debit card. Also inside this pocket is a D‑ring I can hang my keys from. (The keys are mounted on a carabineer)

• Added to the left breast pocket is a loop of webbing a snap‑link can be mounted on. This folds away beneath the pen pocket flap when not needed.

The damaged and now pocketless training coverall provides me with a lot of cloth and a couple of zips and Velcro patches for other projects. I may use some of this cloth to reinforce the elbows and knee areas of my coverall. I plan to use some to add some sleeve pockets when the 12 cm zips I have ordered arrive. Armpit vent zips are another option I am considering.

Admittedly, I have not yet put the coverall to particularly challenging uses yet. I jump into it if I want to fetch something from the local shop, hence the debit card pocket and key‑hanger. I don't even need to take my dressing gown off!

It has been quite cold recently but the coverall has been comfortable with just a light hoodie thrown on over it.

Inevitably, when I get back from the shops I often lounge about in the coveralls, and have been quite comfortable without needing the heating on.

Pockets Galore

The modified coverall now has the following pocket arrangement, in addition to those already mentioned:

• Two large chest pockets, with “napoleon” zip-fastened access. Mounted on the outside of each of these is a Velcro-flapped pocket designed to hold four pen or pencil‑like objects.

• Two roomy patch hip pockets, with slanted zip-closure. Zipped pocket closures are a feature many expensive combat and outdoor trousers often lack!

• Two Velcro‑flapped thigh cargo pockets. On the outside of each is a pocket designed to hold and allow the use of a notepad when seated. These are rather like those found on flight suits, but have a sideways opening panel to hide the notepad when not in use. The notepad inserts from one side.

I sewed the thigh pockets to the upper surface of the existing thigh-top pockets the coverall had. These latter pockets are roomy, bellowed and have a side‑zip, allowing them to be accessed when seated.

• There are also two roomy calf‑level cargo pockets. These are probably best used for low density items such as cordage, emergency toilet paper in a ziplock, and a space‑blanket. If I have to use bowyangs with my coverall, I may experiment with passing them under the flap of the calf pockets. Calf pockets are a logical place to store bowyangs.

Adding pockets to a coverall proved to be a relatively simple task. Despite the different material, mine were a near perfect match. It doesn't really matter if the cloth you are using is not an exact match. Variations in hue and shade will add to the disruptive effect.

Zips and Handles

The main zip of the coverall is two-way, opening at each end. This zips up all the way to the points of the collar, rather like a Norwegian Army shirt. The left side is thoughtfully provided with a flap of material that prevents the zip teeth contacting your neck or cheek when the collar is worn open. The older version lacks this flap, but it is easily added.

Decades past, I read a book or comedy skit where a character claims fly zippers were mounted the wrong way, and should pull up to open. The coverall zipper does pull up to open, and that character is actually right! It is much easier to operate such a zipper one‑handed!

And a few days ago I came across some rain pants I brought in British Columbia (where they know about rain!). The zips on the side pockets pull up to open! Something to think about if modifying gear.

A two‑way zip is handy for situations other than a call of nature. You can open the lower end more to access garments and pouches worn under the coveralls.

If you keep your trousers up with a rigger's belt, opening the zip from the bottom allows you to use this, combined with your carabineer keyring.

On the subject of calls of nature, both the training and the combat coverall have a J‑shaped zip at the rear, covered by a Velcro flap.

What appear to be shoulder straps are in fact grab handles. On the newer coverall, these are held down with Velcro so they are less likely to catch on projections within a vehicle or out in the field. A one‑piece garment and such handles allow a wounded or stunned man to be pulled up out of a damaged vehicle.

These handles could be used like shoulder straps to display rank, but would need a wrap‑around rank insignia rather than a slip‑over. Poppers are probably the best way to achieve this, although buttons, Velcro or hook and eye fastening are other options.

Both MTP coveralls have side vents that allow you to access the hip pockets of garments worn underneath. On both coveralls, the left is secured by Velcro and the right by a zipper. I have no idea why!

The right vent could be used to increase air circulation to the coverall interior. I suppose the rear zip could be used in this way too.

I have heard it claimed coveralls are often long in the body or short in the leg, but this example is actually a very good fit for me, and I am long‑legged.

Many old soldiers seem obsessed by the topic of blousing trouser legs. Doesn't matter that young soldiers have inadequate camouflage practice and their vehicles have no armour, rant about those trouser bottoms!

Many coveralls have elasticated ankles, so “problem” solved! If blousing is so essential, why don't combat trousers have the same? (Not really an issue with me, and I am an advocate of gaiters when available).

Many coveralls also have calf zips that allow you to put them on or remove them without removing boots. It also lets you roll up the legs, should there be a need.

Cons

Other than less than the expected number of pockets, my major complaint about the coverall is that the fly (flap of fabric over the main zip) and the baffle (draft excluder flap behind the zip) seem to be made the minimum width necessary. Someone doubtless worked out this would save so much cloth and so many pence per hundred coveralls made.

It would have been nice if the fly had been wide enough to allow popper fastening as an alternative in hot weather to using the main zip. I could always open the lower end of the zip, I suppose, provided there are no objections to me having my flies open!

The main zip and that of the right side vent have a tendency to catch on the fly or the baffle if you are not careful when zipping up. This may be due to the zips themselves, which have quite small teeth. The zips on the training coverall seem better in this respect, although the main zip on mine was the major incidence of damage.

The Velcro on many of the pockets is a potential source of noise, which means you may not wish to access those pockets in certain situations.

The Velcro pile on the sleeve cuff sometimes catches on a square of hook Velcro on the chest pocket, resulting in unintentional noise. Admittedly, this mainly occurs if the cuff has not been fully closed, so is more likely in hot weather. The square of hook holds the pen pocket flap open, so could be removed or covered by various means. Or construct a tape‑like strip of cloth that covers the exposed section of pile on the cuff.

Update

Zips arrived. I based the sleeve pockets on those often seen on many bomber jackets, with a vertical side zip. A five inch zip is a little small for this, even with my small hands, so I would suggest using six-inch.

The armpit zips have an opening less than five inches, but using a smaller zip might have been too fiddly. It is easier to shorten a longer zip.

Reasonably happy on how the sleeve pockets and armpit vent zips have turned out.

The grey zips are much less obvious than the flash photography makes them appear.

Coveralls are easily modified or customized. Some of the features described on this page may provide you with inspiration. If anyone is interested, I can provide details and measurements of the pockets I used.

Does a coverall have a place in your outdoor wardrobe? If you are not sure, it is within most of our means to experiment with one of the lower priced examples. It will probably prove useful for something, even if it is just doing the gardening or clearing out the garage.

Just please don't rob any museums.

Tags boiler suit, bomb-hatch, bug-out, bug-out outfit, clothing, coverall, dungarees, equipment, flies, flight suit, macgyver, mia goth, MTP, overall, pockets, siren suit, survival kit, velcro, zipper, zips

Phillosoph

Camping Frying Pan Set

Post author By losophyp
Post date 27 August 2023

Today, I thought I would have a little show and tell:

In a previous post I showed one half of my Kephart-inspired cook-set. Today, the other part.

First Photo:

The first photo shows the kit partially packed up.

To the left is a heavy duty stuff sack that just happens to be ideal for carrying a plate-like object.

The frying pan sits on a repurposed, out-of-date triangular bandage. This has various uses, including as a tenugu-type dishcloth. In transit it is wrapped around the outside of the pan.

To the right are two bottles, one for detergent, the other for cooking oil.

In the pan we can see a spork and spatula resting on top of the cutting board. The white is the eating plate, and the green of the cleaning pad can be seen showing through.

Second photo:

The kit unpacked.

Top left, the cutting board, cut to shape to fit in the frying pan. This is a thin plastic cutting board sold as part of a set of several for kitchen use. Resting on this is a combined sponge and scrubber.

Top right, the spork and spatula rest on the plate. The plate is enamelled metal, and deep enough to hold liquids. Inverted it may be used as a lid or cover for the frying pan.

Botton, a view of the frying pan itself. Most frying pans sold for camping use are way too small.

Mine was made from a cheap non-stick item, and is just under nine inches in diameter.

The original handle was removed and replaced with a square-section fitting. This socket may be used to fit the frying pan to a pole or branch. It is also the mounting for the folding and detachable handle, which locks in the open position.

Third Photo:

The spatula and the inverted plate.

Camping Frying Pan Kit Spatula and Plate

The edge of the plate was drilled with a ceramic bit, and a hole made through the metal. This was used to add two wire loops made from paper-clips. These loops are used to lift the plate when it is used as a cover or lid.

The spatula serves as a turner, stirrer, scraper, server and many other roles. It is a cheap beechwood item that has been modified and treated with boiled linseed oil. Since the pan is non-stick, spork and spatula must be non-metal.

The handle has been shortened so that the item fits within the frying pan when packed. The cut end was reshaped for increased functionality. The cut notch may be used to lift billy lids or pick up hot billies.

A loop and hole was added so that the spatula may be hung up to keep it out of the dirt.

Tags billies, camping, cook-set, cooking, equipment, frying-pan, kephart, spatula

Phillosoph

Poncho-Liner Improvement: Pops and Zip

Post author By losophyp
Post date 18 August 2023

In my blog on foundation survival equipment, two of the items were a rain poncho and a blanket. Given how expensive good blankets are these days, many of you will have opted for a poncho-liner (aka “woobie”) instead.

Why a blanket/poncho-liner rather than a sleeping bag? A good sleeping bag is well worth having. In warmer conditions, however, a poncho-liner may be a better choice than that bulky five-season expedition bag you just had to buy, “just in case”. In colder conditions, a poncho-liner may be combined with a sleeping bag of more modest (and more practical) capabilities.

In case you have not worked it out, a more practical sleeping bag purchase would have been a two or three-season bag that can be combined with other items in colder weather, including another sleeping bag. Generally, several thinner layers trap more warm air than one very thick one.

The poncho-liner was designed to be part of a warm weather sleeping system. The instructions are that the poncho-liner is to be tied to a GI-issue rain poncho, with the rain poncho outermost. The soldier lies on one half of the combination and folds the other half over themselves. The snaps (poppers) on the rain poncho should not be used to fasten the opening if sleeping in a combat zone.

Tying the liner to the poncho may not be necessary. Threading the tapes through the eyelets may keep things together by friction alone.

Easiest knot is to make a loop at the base of the cord and pass it up through the eyelet. Make a loop higher in the cord and take it over the edge of the pooncho and pass the loop through the first. Hold the free end and pull the other side of the second loop to pull the first loop snug. This is very easy to tie and easy to undo with cold, wet hands. This is “two-thirds of a Highwayman's Hitch”.

The above method of using rain poncho and liner together has become known as a “ranger roll”, not to be confused with the packing method of the same name. It has been pointed out to me that this system resembles an Australian swag, with the obvious difference a swag uses heavier but breathable canvas,

Ironically, the best way I have found to pack a poncho roll is the other kind of ranger roll.

The poncho and liner (presumably as a ranger-roll configuration) is designated as a sleeping system for temperatures above 50°F (10°C). Put another way, if your breath is fogging, make more elaborate sleeping arrangements.

Rigging your rain poncho as a shelter, such as a ridge tent or lean-to, will trap a layer of air above while you sleep wrapped in your liner. You will be better ventilated and more comfortable than the ranger-roll. Where tactically possible, a fire may be built before a lean-to.

Insulating yourself from ground-chill will also facilitate sleeping at lower temperatures. Place hay, browse, bracken etc between yourself and the ground. Wreckage such as seat cushions may be used. If you have an insulated kip-mat, it may be used instead of or in addition to the previous measures.

If you want to use your poncho as a shelter you will need to carry some cordage, pegs and possibly poles. The two hanks of cord I recommended adding to your EDC will do fine. Since most ponchos or liners do not have a waist cord such cord may be knotted around the waist when wearing a rain-poncho and/or poncho-liner. Bungee cords are an alternative to cordage for shelters, and may also be used around the waist if your brought them long enough.

Pocho Shelters

Some ponchos only have eyelets at the corners, or even lack these. Fit eyelets to each corner and the centre of each edge.

There are alternate options, of course. One of them is a bivi-bag and a pair of poncho-liners.

A poncho-liner is a sensible thing to acquire, even if most of the time you just throw it over yourself when watching telly in the colder months.

Useful though the poncho-liner is, there is room for improvement.

Below is a video of “Green-Craft's” poncho-liner improvements:

Personally, I found some of the modifications described hard to fully comprehend. Long, verbal descriptions on a video are not the best means of communicating information. The video could have benefited from some more illustrations and written lists.

I decided not to use many of these suggested modifications.

For one thing, I do not like “hand-warmer” pockets. Move with your hands in your pockets and you cannot defend yourself nor save yourself if you fall. Essentially, hand-warmer pockets are diametrically the opposite of what this blog is about.

I also had concerns that some of these modifications would affect the packability of my poncho-liner.

And I am short on funds, so cannot afford all the bits needed for the modifications even if I did want them.

The Head Hole

Why did the inventors of the poncho-liner not include a head hole so that it could be worn under a rain-poncho?

Perhaps it was something to do with the commitment to the war in Vietnam? Warm clothing was not seen as a high priority?

Modifying your poncho-liner so that it can be worn as a real poncho is probably the most useful modification you can make, and it is relatively simple.

You will need:

• A 40 cm open-ended zip of suitable colour and finish

• About a metre of suitably coloured double-fold bias tape

• Sewing supplies. A needle, suitably coloured thread, pins, chalk, scissors/shears, a tape measure.

You do not want a zipper with shiny nor reflective teeth, so you will probably get a plastic zip. Colour and shades should be one that blends well with the basic appearance of your poncho-liner.

My poncho-liner is in German Tropentarn desert camo (aka “desert flecktarn” or “fleckdesert”), which is actually quite a good general-purpose pattern. Thus I brought a zipper described as beige.

I brought my double bias tape and the colour was described as “stone”.

If you have some scraps of suitably coloured or patterned material you can make your own bias tape by cutting it diagonally. Using different scraps will enhance the disruptive effect.

There are videos on how to make bias tape and how to join the different sections. You will need and iron and possibly a former.

The Cut

Decide which side of your poncho-liner will be the “outer” and which the “inside.” Also decide which part will be “front” and which “back”. My poncho-liner has a label in one corner so I arranged it so that this would be inside and at the back.

As evenly as possible, fold your poncho-liner width-wise. Then fold it lengthwise. The corner of the folds should be the centre of your poncho-liner.

Many blogs ago, I advised you to buy some chalk and add it to your EDC. You probably had several sticks left. Add some to your home sewing kit, it is times such as these it comes in useful.

Measure down from the centre corner 8 cm and mark a spot with your chalk. Make an 8cm cut through both thicknesses of the poncho-liner. Note that the cut you are making is lengthwise, going from back to front.

Unfold the poncho-liner. From the edge of the cut measure 19 cm and mark a point with chalk. I used a set-square here to ensure the line was perpendicular to a width-wise fold. Cut down the front 19 cm.

You now have a poncho-liner with a 35 cm hole in the centre. Check this fits easily over your head. Make it a shade bigger if necessary.

Fitting the Zip and Collar

Unzip your zipper into separate halves.

On the outermost side of the poncho-liner, place your zipper parts on either side of the head-hole.

Position them so that for each the teeth are on the opposite side to the opening.

You should be looking at the “back side” of the zipper and the puller should be on the front-side of the poncho-liner when fully down.

Pin each of the zipper halves so that the toothless edge is flush with the cut edge of the head-hole.

Note that your zipper is longer than the hole you cut. Make sure they are closely aligned. Try closing the zipper while it is still only pinned in position and adjust as necessary.

Fitting the Double Bias Tape

Once you are happy with the position of your zipper, you need to pin the bias tape into position.

I suggest you watch a few videos to familiarize yourself with how this tape is used. We are going to fold it all the way over the edge of the head-hole. If you look at the outer edges of your poncho-liner you will see a similar method has already been used to finish that edge.

Cut two lengths of bias tape about the same length as your zipper. Unfold the tape so that you are looking at its “inside”.

Place the tape, inside uppermost, over your zipper half. Align the inner edge of the tape so that it is flush with the cut-edge of the poncho and the toothless edge of the zipper. Pin in position and repeat for the other side.

You can remove the pins you put in to hold the zipper.

There should be pins securing both tape and zipper to the poncho-liner.

Note that if I was to do this again, I would use short lengths of bias tape to cover the top and bottom of the cut before adding the zipper. What I have done does not look too bad (on the outside!), but it could have been neater.

Sewing

I started off trying to use a “mini-sewing machine”. This was very cheap when I brought it. I notice the price is creeping up now!

After attaching the first zipper half I got sick of repeatably rethreading the thing, and realized I could probably do a neater job hand-sewing. Some sections would need to be hand-sewn anyway.

Sew along the crease of the bias tape that is closer to the hole.

Once this is done, fold the tape so that it completely covers the cut edge of the liner and the other crease touches the inside of the poncho-liner, the far edge of the tape tucked in.

Both creases of the tape are thus folded and both edges of the tape tucked in.

Sew just inside the edge of the tape so your thread passes through all four layers of tape, the zipper and the poncho-liner.

Finishing the Zipper

Close your zipper and tuck each end through the cut to the inner side of the poncho-liner.

Finish the ends of the bias tape so they are sewn to the zipper.

Since the top and bottom of my head-hole was untaped, I put a few stiches through the zipper and through the poncho-liner to close off any opening that remained.
Lastly, add a length of cord or tape to your zipper-puller.

This will stop it rattling. It also lets you easily work the zipper if your hands are cold and numb or wearing thick gloves.

If you can get some bootlace that matches the ties on your poncho-liner, that would be cool. I used a length of “desert-camo” 3mm budget paracord, which does not look out of place.

The Zipper Explained

Why use this configuration for your zipper?

When used as a garment, the teeth of the opened parts of the zipper will not contact your bare neck. You can roll the edges of the opening outward if you wish. This is shown in the photo immediately below.

There are other ways to prevent the teeth rubbing the neck, but the above method is one of the simplest and involves very little sewing.

The puller of the zipper is at the front when opened so that you can adjust the neck opening to vary ventilation or retain more heat.

The zipper I brought was described as beige but the actual colour was lighter and more yellow than I had hoped. Because very little of the zipper is visible on the outside, I got lucky and it blends very nicely with the rest of the poncho-liner. I think it may work better than the dark green zipper I also considered.

In practice, the zipper will usually be covered by a scarf or shemagh.

The zipper I brought was missing a tooth at the very top. This caused the puller to jam if the zip is fully closed. Fortunately, by tucking the very bottom and top of the zip, the last few centimetres of each end are not used, yet the opening can be fully closed. A combination of luck and improvisation!

Poncho-liner with zipper opening fully open

The bias tape I brought was described as “stone” in colour. I was expecting something with a hint of brown, but it proved to be a light, very neutral-looking grey. Not surprisingly, this colour and shade goes very well with both the zipper and the poncho-liner in general.

The camera flash probably creates a greater contrast than the naked eye sees.

Poppers

Once I had fitted the zipper, I went about installing some plastic poppers (aka “snaps”, “snap-fasteners”). These may need special pliers to fit.

You will need something that can poke a small hole through the poncho-liner. I used a stout sailmaker's needle I have in my home sewing kit. A set of these is worth having. The smaller ones go in you EDC or travel kits, the larger into your home sewing and/or repair kit.

You can chalk the needle to make the holes easier to locate.

Getting the Poppers Right

Lay-out your poncho with the inner side upwards.

Mentally divide it into quarters. We will be installing poppers using the following rules. The reason for this will be explained later:

• Each quarter will have the popper halves all of the same time. A quarter will only contain “male” poppers or “female”.

• If a quarter at the top has male poppers, the quarter immediately below will have female, and vice versa.

• If a quarter on the left has male poppers, that on the immediate right will have female, and vice versa.

• Quarters that are diagonally opposite will contain the same type of popper half.

I started off by installing the corner-most popper halves. Concentrate on getting these right and then it is just a matter of using the same popper type for each quarter.

I installed the corner poppers 40mm in from the side edge of the poncho-liner and 190mm from the top or bottom edge. If you are on the large side, place the poppers closer to the edge.

Next, fold your poncho-liner width-wise. Use the top and bottom poppers you have just added if you wish.

From the width-wise fold, measure down 240 to 250mm and install a popper 40mm in from the side. Make sure each quarter of the poncho-liner has the same type popper-half.

When you are wearing the poncho-liner, using this popper forms a sort of sleeve. The opening is generous enough to allow for bulky cold weather clothing. You can also slip your hand in and use it as a hand-warmer, “Fu Manchu”-style.

You will want to add a few more poppers down the side between the “sleeve” popper. I chose to add three more to each side.

With your poncho-liner still folded width-wise, fasten the sleeve and corner poppers. Make another width-wise fold so the corner popper touches the sleeve popper. Mark where the fold is and install a popper. As always, make sure each quarter of the poncho-liner has the same type popper-half.

Install additional poppers between the sleeve and corner poppers and the middle popper you just fitted.

Finishing the Poppers

The poppers I had purchased were supposedly “beige”. They turned out to be way lighter than expected, and had a gloss finish! When installed on the poncho-liner they appeared like they were white.

Luckily, I have some enamel model paints, several in colours close to that of the poncho-liner. I used these to paint the outer sides of the popper halves. I did not bother to paint the inners. I suspect the paint on the inners will either wear off too quickly or affect functionality, but try it if you wish.

For the record, the colours I used were Humbrol no.84 Stone and Revell no.83 Leather Brown. None of the poppers passed through green areas of the camouflage, so I did not use any of my green paints. These are not exact colour matches for the poncho-liner, but if someone is close enough to see the difference camouflage is no longer an option!

Like most painting, a second coat will improve it. You can stipple the surface to produce a more matt-effect, or even sprinkle a little sand on the first coat. However, given that the surface of the poncho-liner is quite smooth, the practical value of this is moot.

While you are at it, see if the poppers on your rain-poncho could use some paint.

Again, the flash on my camera probably shows them up more than the naked eye can discern them.

Below is a shot taken without flash.

Modified poncho-liner photographed without flash

You may not be able to avoid painting your poppers, but start off with some that are matt, medium shade and a natural or neutral colour if you can.

The Poppers Explained

Why did I insist such attention be paid to which popper half went in which quarter?

If you want to sleep in your poncho-liner, fold it lengthwise and tuck under the foot-end. You will find you can use the poppers to fasten the free long edges. Much more compact and less bulk than fitting a long zip on this edge!

Personally, I find sleeping like this a little restrictive and am more likely to use the liner like a conventional blanket. Part of the appeal of the liner as a warm weather sleeping system is that it does not confine you like a sleeping bag. Best way to turn the poncho-liner into a cold weather system is use it with a sleeping bag!

Obviously, if the poppers of the rain poncho on a ranger-roll should not be fastened in a threat environment, the same goes for the poppers you fitted to your liner when sleeping.

Wearing your poncho-liner? Two sets of poppers line up to create a sleeve-type opening. Those below can be used to close up the sides.

These simple modifications will take you less than a day, even if you have to hand-sew.

Tags cloak, clothing, equipment, poncho, poncho-liner, sewing, sleeping, soldier's load, survival, survival kit

Phillosoph

Original 30 Litre Travelling Article

Post author By losophyp
Post date 28 June 2023

My recent decluttering exercise turned up a number of unexpected bonuses.

One of these is that I found a copy of my original article on hosteling that was mentioned in a previous post.

Below is an OCR scan of the article, with minor proof corrections. I will reproduce it as it was originally written. Some of how I traveled in the years after this was written differed in actual practice.

When packing for some camping and hostelling in Germany, I was annoyed to discover that my capricious rucksack was nearly full, but I was taking virtually nothing. How could this be when I'd planned to travel “Light but Right”? I felt better when I discovered that the weight was only 15 kilos; and much better when I saw what some of my fellow travellers were carrying.

I recall one Canadian girl who carried a full-size pack with a sleeping bag on top, a daypack on her front and another in her hand: and she was just hosteling. Another girl admitted that she once carried 21 kilos in clothes alone.

Many male travelers are just as bad. For these people the following statement is made: You can travel around the world by hostel and only need a 30 litre daysac.

The following intends to explain how.

Bedding

Most hostels in northern Europe provide blankets or quilts, so the only bedding that you need is a sleeping bag liner or sheet bag. I have three tips concerning such items:

• If you are a restless sleeper who often gets tangled up in a bag then cut the bag liner from toe to mid thigh and resew so the bag has separate legs.

• Sewing a different textured cloth around the opening allows you to find the way in even in the dark. It also provides a means of identification. Ladies might consider a piece of lace for this purpose.

• Keep the liner handy near the top of the pack or in a pocket. No one likes the roommate that wakes them up by turning on the hall or bathroom light then pottering around for half an hour getting ready for bed.

In some countries the bedding is not provided or not safe. You'll be sleeping indoors so forget the 5-season Everest-expedition bags.

Usually a 1-2 season bag or a blanket will be sufficient. Blankets can be folded flat in a pack to act as a pad for the back. If the bag or blanket takes up too much room, it can be strapped to the top of the pack in a waterproof bag. This proves useful as a pillow or seat.

Another useful item is a set of pockets that can be tied to a bed frame.

These hold my alarm clock and ear plugs and keep my glasses from getting under foot.

Clothing

Clothing takes up most of the bulk because most people take lots of cotton.

Cotton is fine for hot, dry climates but takes ages to dry and is very cold when wet. It is to be avoided when possible.

All the shirts I now carry are silk. Silk is comfortable in warm weather and warm in cold. It also dries very quickly. Surprisingly, cotton shirts and silk are of a similar price at the moment.

Often I've been drenched in downpours yet remained comfortable and dried within the hour.

It’s also a wonderful feeling (and very practical) to walk in off a hike, straight into the showers and soap down the shirt before removing it.

Strictly speaking you need only three shirts: wash, wear and spare. On most trips I take two long-sleeved and two short-sleeved silk shirts. The latter resemble tee-shirts in that they only open down to the chest. The collars have been removed so they can be worn under a long-sleeved shirt for extra insulation.

It seems inevitable that you will end up with some cotton items. Some people like tee-shirts for sleeping-in and they make good souvenirs.

Trick is to have them as a reserve, not as a main garment.

Polyester tee-shirts can be had that are just as comfortable but much quicker to dry.

For underwear. I carry three pairs of nylon or polyamide swimming shorts. In addition to drying fast, they have another advantage. If I want to change “into” shorts all I have to do is remove my trousers.

For colder climates, merkalon thermal underwear takes up little room and is easily washed and dried.

I've met two different travelers who've carried fourteen pairs of socks! You don’t need more than four pairs.

Ideally these should be wool/synthetic but often I make do with cotton.

The trick is to rinse in very hot water and give them a good wringing out.

The best way to wash socks is to put them on your hands and wash your hands.

Sewing a loop to the top of each sock gives greater security when hanging them up or tying them to something. This allows them to be tied to the outside of your pack to act as pouches.

A few bandannas are useful to carry since they have numerous uses.

Denim jeans are fine for hot, dry weather but once wet they take ages to dry and if you're wearing them you'll be miserable.

Lighter cotton or polycotton trousers will be better, and maybe better still will be the “cotton-feel” synthetics.

It's worth remembering that trousers take a lot of punishment so a very lightweight pair may be a false economy.

If walking off-road, a pair of gaiters or puttees (spare bandannas?) will keep your trousers clean. Better still, wear breeches or shorts.

Carrying something clean to sit on (and using it) will save laundry duty. Another tip is to always place your bag on its base or front when putting it down. This saves soiling your shirt back.

That covers the basic everyday clothing.

To summarize, select garments that are versatile and easily washed and dried, preferably by the cheap method of dunking in a sink and hanging on a line.

A warm garment such as a jumper or fleece is needed for cold days, rest halts or walking around in the evenings.

A lightweight windproof jacket of something fast drying such as nylon will be useful for milder conditions and can be worn over the fleece.

An important garment is some form of waterproof. Wear it only when needed but keep it close to hand. A good place is under the pack flap above the snow lock. Remember these garments also serve as windproofs.

A good way to warm-up is a hat. Hats also keep the sun from your eyes and the rain off your glasses. Choose something that will survive being put-in a pocket, such as a baseball cap and a woolly hat.

Footwear

When carrying a rucksack I always wear boots. They've saved my ankles on both hillsides and cobbled streets. Depending on expected conditions, these will be either canvas hiking boots, leather walking boots or DMs.

The canvas boots are kept clean by my nail brush; the others require a simple cleaning kit. This is simply a brush, tin of polish and an old sock to buff with and keep them in.

You might like to carry another pair of shoes to give your feet a rest in the evenings. I favour espandriles.

I've never carried an iron since most of the creases fall out of T-shirts if hung-up, and silk only retains a few wrinkles that doesn’t look too shabby. Large creases can be removed from silk by smoothing with a damp flannel.

The Wash Kit

The choice of items is personal but I'll list my choices as a guide:

• A screw topped bottle of shampoo: 125ml but seldom fully filled. A 50ml tube proved adequate for most trips.

• A flannel: half of one would do.

• A hand towel: pertex is preferred.

• A bar of soap: used as an antiseptic, laundry agent and for shaving: hence no shaving brush nor foam needed nor carried.

• Razor.

• Deodorant.

• A “fit any hole” sink plug. I actually seldom used this.

• A small nail brush: used dry, this removes mud from clothing and canvas boots. Wetted with a little soap it removes any stubborn marks from clothing.

• A plastic bag of toilet paper: most hostels will provide paper but many of the sights you visit may not, so this in fact rides with your daytime items.

The Emergency Bag

Most of this is taken up by the medical kit which consists of:

• Various plasters in a waterproof film container.

• Painkillers and anti-diarrhoea tablets protected from crushing by cigar tins.

• Sun cream and insect repellent.

• TCP: liquid is better since it doesn’t mark clothes, lasts a long time if diluted to instructions and can be gargled for sore throats.

The sewing kit fits in a waterproof tube and contains a couple of shirt buttons, five safety pins (for zips), three needles including a sallmaker’s that will sew leather and canvas, and a piece of matchstick or straw wound with several metres of “invisible” thread.

Also in this pack is a lighter, small torch, string and a roll of dental floss that has various uses including heavy duty sewing.

The contents of the sewing and medical kit combine to treat blisters.

Hostels that have kitchens usually provide pots but you may need something to provide you with a hot lunch or drink when rambling. All one needs is something to boil up water quickly for tea, soup, noodles or a freeze-dried pack. An alcohol jelly stove or mini-Trangia is ideal.

Also needed for travel off the beaten track is a survival bag, compass and maps.

Female Travelers

Most of this article has a male bias, for good reason. When it comes to female clothing I can’t speak first hand, but have sought some advice.

According to fashion magazines one can go on holiday with just a swimsuit/body, large baggy tee shirt, white shirt, sarong and white chinos.

This is obviously not the whole story but has the right idea by having lots of versatile and mixable separates, preferably in silks or synthetics as already detailed.

A friend maintains she needs a long-dress for hot weather and that viscose is quite comfortable but should be folded rather than rolled.

Another says she would pack a dress suitable for going to concerts (and presumably suitable shoes since not everyone can pull off the look with walking boots).

I'm also told that tights are better than socks since they dry quicker. I'd imagine that stockings are better still since if you hole two legs you still have a pair to wear.

For shoes that don’t look right with socks, there are things called shoe liners.

As for males, swimwear can be used as underwear.

Packing

Knowing what to carry is only half the story. There is also the art of packing.

Most of the smaller packs on the market are designed for climbing and somewhat short on pockets. Pockets can be added on but in practice this may not be needed. A small pack is easier to remove and there is less room for things to go astray.

The front or top pocket of a small pack will hold a guide book, notebook and some sweets and chocolate. There may be room for a waterproof and some socks to change into when travelling overnight.

At the very bottom of the main compartment are bags containing the crushable clothes: underwear and socks.

Above is a padded bag or small box containing the items you don’t want creased such as shirts, trousers and dresses. Padded bags can be made from bubble wrap.

In my kit the shirts and trousers are wrapped around a stuff-sack of “smalls” and then rolled up in a short length of covered foam sheet.

The fleece or jumper is placed in its own unpadded bag so it can be accessed easily when needed.

Denser items are placed on top to compress the softer below. These include spare shoes, polish kit, mini-stove, lunch and a bag of miscellaneous items (things you don’t need now but will need in the future: home front door keys, guide book for the next country, presents, money, phone and travel cards for the country you're returning to, etc).

On top of these items is a bag containing the wash kit, towel, alarm clock, earplugs and sleeping bag liner (wrapped separately to protect it from damp wash items).

Everything needed for bed can therefore be grabbed in one go.

Nearer the top is the emergency bag and a small bag containing the hat, gloves, bandannas and scarf. If the top pocket of the pack is full, this bag can be pinned or sewn to the inside of the sack to prevent it falling to the bottom.

Also near the top of the bag is my All-Weather blanket: used as a ground sheet for picnics and as a waterproof cape.

An external pocket is useful for a water-bottle. If making your own pocket it must be large enough to take a bottle of locally brought water. Bottles are by their nature waterproof so a pocket can be something as simple as nylon mesh.

I also carry a GO Pure Cup that will chlorinate 500 litres of suspect water. The cup is useful for gargling and diluting TCP.

A thermos, if carried, will ride in the main compartment, insulated by the clothing.

Another use for mesh is to make a bag for drying damp items in. Pin this to the edge of the pack flap where it will ride high and is less likely to be soiled if you put your bag down. When it starts raining, you can push it under the pack flap as you reach for your rainproof.

A final note on packing.

The sack is lined with a waterproof bag and as many items as possible wrapped individually and distinctively, which protects from water and makes things easier to locate. Spare plastic bags are also carried.

There should be enough room in your pack for purchases made while travelling.

There are a few other items that I would take, but these are carried on my person.

They include my Swiss Army knife and passport. The latter should never be left in your rucksack!

In summary, the basic strategy is to carry a few low-bulk items that can easily washed, and more importantly are quick to dry. In many countries there are minimum charges at laundries so using them can prove very expensive.

Carrying a smaller pack also makes it easier to use public transport and means your pack will always fit in luggage lockers and racks. It also makes it easier on you should you need to sightsee with your pack on your back, as sometimes occurs.

When you reach your accommodation, the pack can be unpacked of any unneeded items and used as your daypack.

The Ideal Bag?

The ideal pack would be in two parts, the smaller fitting onto the larger.

The larger bag holds the things you carry when moving between accommodation, the smaller the stuff needed when walking around in the day.

The larger bag contains the sleeping bag, bed kit, shoe polish, miscellaneous bag, spare shoes, clothing, underwear, socks and laundry pouch. The capacity can be increased, and the straps covered to prevent damage from luggage carousels.

The smaller bag takes a hat, gloves and scarf in one pocket, a waterproof under the pack flap, a waterbottle in a side pocket, stove, lunch, fleece, emergency kit, and AW blanket in the main compartment and guidebook, novel,notebook, sweets and toilet paper in another.

Acknowledgement. Many thanks to Aileen Fyfe, a first rate traveler who provided invaluable advice and comments. I hope my comments will in turn lighten your load.

Philip West.

August 1996

Tags equipment, hostel, hosteling, travelling

Phillosoph

Some Thoughts on Possessions and Minimalism

Post author By losophyp
Post date 30 May 2023

Today I would like to throw out some ideas about minimalism.

This is more a collection of thoughts and ideas rather than a coherent article. I hope some of it will be of use or interest to you. You may have too much stuff

My blogs have touched on this or related topics several times already.

Creating a capsule wardrobe in neutral and natural colours is an example of minimalism.

My friend Sam had the concept of “Sam’s Van”: that one should not have more than could be moved in a single vanload, an example of quantity-limited minimalism.

In all honesty, I cannot call myself a minimalist. My girlfriend is probably having a hearty laugh at the very notion!

I have, however, attempted to make use of some of its techniques.

Don’t Count!

A very useful piece of advice I came across was “Don’t Count!”

“I only own n number of things” makes for a great blog title, but if many of us try to apply this in practice it can lead to unhealthy obsessiveness, or goal-post shifting.

Well done to those who have reduced their belongings to just n-items, but bear in mind a more productive application of the exercise is to reduce your belongings to only the things you need, rather than an arbitrary number.

Some possessions naturally begat others. I have knives and other edged tools for my kitchen, hobbies, toolbox, camping and EDC. It would be very foolish for me not to own at least one other possession to keep them sharp, for example.

Sometimes a simple single addition may make a lot of difference.

I carry my keys on a carabiner. Not all of my trousers have loops in the best position for this.

I brought myself a robust key-hanger that fits on my belt. The hanger even has a couple of stout press-studs so I am able to place it on my belt without needing to unthread it. Now the keys always hang directly over the pocket. An additional possession well worth having.

Clear the Decks

Another good tip I have encountered is to “clear the decks”.

Ideally, nothing should be on your floor except your furniture.

Once you have relocated or discarded the stuff that was taking up your floor-space, move on to the other horizontal surfaces and declutter them.

Minimalism for Preppers

Applying minimalist techniques can be a very useful exercise, especially for preppers.

You can apply them just to your backpacking or bug-out outfit, or to your life in general.

I come across a lot of lists of equipment. Many of the “essentials” are actually only conveniences or “nice to haves”.

I have read a minimalist list where the person owned one bowl, one plate, one mug and one glass. Presumably their mates never came around for a cuppa or a drink. Or perhaps their mates were all minimalists too and were expected to bring their own cups!

The same list included a set of measuring cups for cooking. Perhaps a single measuring jug is more minimalist than a set of cups? Perhaps they could drink out of the measuring jug! I was rather pleased to see someone offering a graduated drinking glass!

Kitchenware

If you are on the move, your minimalist cooking kit is a spork and canteen cup or mess tin. Many canteen cups now have non-stick coating, so use a non-metallic spork.

For a more leisurely camping kit, have a frying-pan, pair of billies, spork, spatula and a piece of plastic flexible cutting board. The latter is cut to size and shape to fit in your frying-pan. This is not a bad basis for your minimalist home kitchen.

Stephane Reynaud wrote a cookbook called “One Knife, One Pot, One Dish”. Not as minimalist as some would want, since the “pot” in different recipes may be a casserole, frying-pan, saucepan, baking dish, bain-marie or even a food processor.

If you want a very minimalist cooking outfit for home, a frying pan/skillet and a flameproof casserole is not a bad option.

Since you will be spending less money on kitchenware overall, you can probably afford quality examples of what you do select.

The casserole should be of the sort that you can use on either the hob or in the oven. If you use a halogen oven, you will obviously need a casserole that can fit inside of it and when filled is not too heavy for you to lift out.

An oven-baking dish is a useful supplement to the casserole. If you have a halogen oven, make sure your dish is of a size and shape that fits it. Most halogen ovens include a suitable baking dish with their accessories.

Select a spatula that can serve as a turner, server and a stirrer.

I like to cook and get a little creative in the kitchen, so I do not think it is too great a disaster if I have a couple of extra pots and spatulas.

A small saucepan will probably see lots of use. You will probably find you do not need more than two or three of varying size. Two frying pans of different sizes is sometimes convenient, although I use my wok and frying pans a lot less since I got the halogen oven.

If you do use a halogen oven, you will know that tongs are pretty useful for removing or turning hot food. You could use a pair of spatulas, I guess, but chances are your halogen oven came with a set of tongs, so why not keep these?.

You will need a chopping board and/or a set of flexible cutting board sheets for use with your knife.

I would opt for a Chinese cleaver, but you may then need a small knife for those rare jobs the cleaver is not good for. You should also have a serrated knife for cutting bread and fruit.

It is useful to have scissors and a spare penknife in the kitchen. Then again, my kitchen also has a buck-axe and Mora-knife!

I quite like the sets of measuring cups and spoons I have hanging up in the kitchen. I try to use them to stop over-serving myself portions. The minimum is probably a measuring jug.

Have at least one mixing bowl. Perhaps invest in an ovenproof one that may be used in the microwave or halogen oven.

Usually I drain food using the pot lid. A sieve, strainer or colander may sometimes be needed. The perforated steamer and mesh dishes from my halogen oven may substitute.

I could probably use a larger selection of storage boxes for the fridge, and make the ones I have more accessible.

For each person, there should be a bowl, plate, mug and drinking glass.

If you are a big tea drinker, you will want your mug made from glass. A glass mug is a good all-rounder for all kinds of hot or cold drinks.

For cold drinks you may want something taller with more volume and room for ice.

Ideally, have two sets of tableware for each person. You will need to wash-up less frequently and you can accommodate guests. If there are more than two of you, the extra plates and bowls are useful for serving. Bowls also get used for mixing, marinating and microwaving.

For each person, a set of utensils: knife, fork, spoon. All-metal, single-piece sets are more durable. The knife should be of a form that can cut cooked food and spread butter. Have a couple of spare sets for guests.

You may want a steak/cutting knife and teaspoon for each person or guest too. Personally, I like to have at least half a dozen additional teaspoons. A teaspoon is far better for spreading jam or marmalade than a knife, incidentally.

Adopt my methods of quick, economical washing-up and you will find it easy to maintain a stock of clean cutlery and dishes.

I have a dish-drying cloth, but seldom use it since letting washing-up drain and air-dry is cleaner and more convenient. It gets used more often to swat flies. Drying my hands is more common, and this only needs a small hand-towel. Same hand-towel is useful for handling hot dishes and pots.

What Do You Really Need?

It is foolish to think what applies to yourself is true for everyone else. That is quite a useful thing to remember in everyday life. Keep this in mind when you read minimalist lists.

Sometimes I find that I do not need some of the items on minimalist’s lists. Having a good penknife does away with the need for many other implements.

My girlfriend recently tidied-up a bedroom that had been used for storage.

“Transformed” is probably a better term. It was hard to believe it was the same room!

I was looking around for a rug with a two-metre high pile of junk swept under it.

One of the few items she declared surplus to requirements was a desk-lamp. She had absolutely no use for this, she declared. Neither had I, I realized.

I have two desk-lamps, both fitted with daylight bulbs. I only ever use them when I am photographing something.

I mention this, since several minimalist lists of belongings include desk-lamps or floor-lamps as essentials. Perhaps their home is considerably darker than mine and they do actually need them.

Most of us do our writing and reading on computers these days, so I would venture that many of us do not need a separate desk-lamp. I certainly do not need a lamp to “create mood”.

Sometime ago I got rid of a freestanding lamp since I never used it.

I think television shows create a false impression here. Often on the box, we see an interior with multiple lamps, all of them lit in the middle of the day!

Don’t use lights you do not need, and reduce your energy bill. Sell or donate lamps you never use.

Another item that is surprisingly common on minimalist lists of “necessities” is bathroom scales. Personally, I have never owned a set of bathroom scales. I do not need a set to tell me I am carrying extra weight, I can see it! Similarly, weight-loss that the scale claims has no value. What matters is that which I and others perceive.

Wastebaskets? I have certain in-laws that cannot grasp not to use a bin without a liner. My rubbish for recycling goes into a repurposed plastic bag. This usually hangs from one corner of a kitchen chair, so I need no bin.

Foodstuff that might attract flies goes into a bag in the freezer until it is thrown out into the bins outside.

Not that I get many flies, since I fitted all the windows I might open for ventilation with insect mesh! Simple addition: big change!

Something I don’t see on many lists is a dressing gown. I spend most of my time at home wearing little else! One of the pleasures of a nice shower is drying off in a snuggly dressing gown!

My older dressing gown has fallen to bits, so I may replace it with a longer, hooded fleece gown for the colder months, and to wear when the other fleece gown is being washed.

The dressing gown is supplemented by a fleece blanket in the lounge. I spend most of my time alone, so heating the whole house if it is a little chilly is stupid. I often watch television or play video games with a blanket thrown over me. If it gets colder, I throw a poncho-liner over this too.

Constructive Minimalism

In an apparent paradox, if I have been reading a minimal list of belongings, it is more usual for me to think about buying something rather than discarding something.

This illustrates how minimalist lists can be a useful tool for making you concentrate on what are your essentials and highlighting where you might make improvements.

I have, however, taken to practicing a self-imposed “cool-down” period. I wait at least 24 hours before I click “buy”. I may miss the occasional bargain, but generally I save more money by avoiding spending it on stuff I can manage without.

Thinking of your possessions as “collections” or “kits” can be productive in rationalizing what you have.

Bedding

Considering bedding, it occurred to me my life would be a lot easier if I had two brand-new sets of sheets and duvet covers. Some of my older stuff did not quite fit the mattress I now have.

Two sets give me one new set on the bed while the other is in the wash.

I have an extra duvet and pillow, so I can use my older stuff for these, again giving a set in use and one in the wash.

Stationery

If I consider the topic of “stationery”, what do I actually need, compared to what I have?

Most writing is now done on the computer, so pens and paper are seldom used.

I have blank A4 paper for the printer (although the printer seldom behaves well enough to print anything! The device is mainly used for scanning.). That blank A4 paper can be used for various other things. A pad of lined paper and/or a notepad or two. Pad of post-it notes. Stick of paper glue.

You may have uses for a highlighter, stapler or some paper-clips.

Seldom do I need envelopes these days. If I do need one, I can fold a piece of paper into one. I do occasionally send packages, so some tape is useful.

I have plenty of knives, so I could do without a pencil sharpener, although there is little point in discarding the couple that I have.

I have some super glue and blu tac, although these reside in my modelling supplies.

Erasers, pens, pencils, of course.

Go through your pens and discard refills or disposable pens that no longer work.

Some forms require you to fill them in in black ink, so make sure that some of your pens are black.

Recently I had to send a parcel and was unable to find a thick pen to write the address with. So I bought a pair of black Sharpies, adding one to my EDC and keeping the other for home use.

Sometimes it is a matter of organization.

I had lots of pens and pencils, but distributed in various diverse locations. Pool most of your erasers, pencils and pens into a box or a large pencil case. You can still have a pen and/or pencil in places you are likely to need them, but if you do need something you only have to look in one place.

I have a pen and pencil in a box in the lounge, a pen and pencil in a kitchen drawer, and everything else in a large pencil case in my room. A handful of paper-clips form the zip-pull.

Ruler, protractor and a pair of compasses can be handy at times, and also serve in the “tools/DIY” category.

DIY Tools

The DIY tools I probably use the most are a tape measure and a drill. There are often screw-hooks that need putting up.

A awl, gimlet or bradawl is useful for beginning drill holes. The reamer on a penknife is good for many jobs, but the T-handle location means it is awkward in restricted spaces.

Many jobs I have used a drill for actually only need a gimlet. If just starting out, invest in a set of gimlets. Only buy or borrow a drill when you encounter a job that really needs one.

To start accurately drilling metal, a centrepunch and hammer is useful. A nail or scriber may substitute for a centrepunch for some applications.

On the back of my tool cupboard door hangs a tape measure, small spirit level, a Stanley knife and a hand-crank flashlight. The flashlight is mainly used for exploring the depths of the cupboard, but may be used for other household applications.

With the abundance of small electronic devices in modern life, a set of fine screwdrivers will prove useful. Add tweezers and magnet(s) as suggested. You may wish to add a spudger. One screwdriver should be large enough for rewiring plugs. If this is not the case, buy a small electrician's screwdriver.

You will probably need some pliers. Needle-nose and chunky, possibly curved too. Your hobbies may require additional smaller examples.

Eastwood's character in “Grand Torino” opinions that all you really need is duct tape and mole grips. A related witticism “If it rattles and shouldn't, duct tape it. If it doesn't rattle and should, use WD40”.

Scan It and Toss It

As mentioned, my printer is also a scanner. It can feed-in and scan whole stacks of papers automatically. Or at least, it did until Epson discontinued the software needed to do this for my model!

A scanner may be very useful for decluttering your life.

When I moved in with my girlfriend, I scanned scores of folders of documents, magazine articles and old papers. This allowed me to throw out several sacks of the old papers and makes it easier to find the information I want when I want it.

Bag and Box

Bag or box stuff when you can. You will save yourself time if these bags and boxes are transparent or mesh.

For example, stick all of your pairs of gloves that are not in jacket pockets in a mesh bag in a drawer or on a wardrobe shelf. When you need gloves, just one place to look, and no hunting for a glove hiding in with the socks.

Things that are wanted but seldom used may be tucked away on a high shelf or bottom of a wardrobe. Conversely, some things that you might make more use of may currently be hidden out of sight and out of mind.

Put your teaspoons in a small jar on the countertop rather than hidden in the bottom of a crowded drawer. Makes them much easier to find.

My final advice is to understand that decluttering is likely to be a “work-in-progress”.

Many times you will think that you are nearly done, but are not! Changing one thing will put other things in a new context.

Scanning the last of my old papers got me thinking about the various plastic and card folders they had been in.

I have lots of books and DVDs. While I like to call the exercise “decluttering”, there is no way my home will ever look uncluttered.

It might be argued that much of my minimalism is “below the surface”.

There is now less in the cupboards and drawers. What is in there is now more logically organized and more easily found.

It is quite probable that no-one will notice the difference except myself.

Psychologically, the place feels calmer.

Tags cooking, EDC, equipment, gimlet, long-term survival, minimalist, sam's van, survival, survival kit

Phillosoph

Tools in the Office

Post author By losophyp
Post date 13 May 2023

A friend of mine asked me for suggestions for the contents of a small repair/utility kit to place in a locker at his office. In his own words, he wants to be “the handy guy”.

Every time I have moved office, I have virtuously left my tool collection for my successor, (not that I had much choice in the matter last time!) Each time I have regretted this, as over the next few months I have needed tools I no longer have.

What to have in such a kit will depend on the office, and the sort of equipment likely to be encountered.

I once returned to my office to find a pair of colleagues attempting to help someone remove a finger-ring. I quickly confiscated the hacksaw(!) and demonstrated that a needle-file was the correct tool for the job.

A dearly missed friend of mine was a craftsman of the old school. He brought the best tools he could and they served him well for his entire lifetime. Good job he was cremated, since he would turn in his grave at my next suggestion!

Bear in mind the likely frequency of use of your office tool kit. For items that are only likely to be used occasionally, it may be warranted to acquire some of these items from “budget” sources.

Images are for illustration only! No recommendation of particular brands or models should be inferred.

Office Folders

My starting point for an office tool kit would be to find a penknife and/or multi-tool.

If you are a regular visitor to these pages, chances are you already carry a number of useful items as part of your EDC.

It is also possible that you have a couple of older items that you have replaced with something better and more suited to your needs. You may have brought yourself a full-sized multi-tool, only to decide it is too heavy for constant carry and your needs are better served by something such as a Swiss Army knife and a mini-Leatherman Squirt.

In my kitchen drawer I have a couple of penknives donated from lost property. One is large and bulky and includes a set of pliers. Both penknives hang on a hook in the drawer and are useful for tasks such as tightening cooking pot handles.

If you have a surplus penknife and/or multi-tool, make this the starting point of your office tool kit.

Screwing in the Office

The next addition would be some “proper” screwdrivers.

There are some places that the screwdrivers on a penknife or multi-tool cannot reach, or are too big for. If you have to remove a number of screws, or they are hard to remove, conventionally handled screwdrivers may be more comfortable and effective.

Items such as phones or laptops tend to use quite small screws. You may encounter cross/Phillips/posidriv or Torx-headed screws.

Have a set of several small screwdrivers of approximately 3 to 5mm width for the flat heads, and the other types of similar size, such as PH/PZ 0 to 2.

Some items have very small screws! A set of precision/“jeweller’s” screwdrivers is worth having. This will also make you popular with spectacles wearers.

As an aside, the very small screwdriver that fits in the corkscrew of a Swiss Army knife is worth acquiring for your EDC. I once saw someone’s glasses fall to bits while they were talking to me in a pub. I repaired them there on the spot.

You should also have at least one fairly hefty large slot screwdriver.

Recently an important keycard was left in a cabinet and the key-holder was absent with Corvid. I was told to get into the desk by any means possible. Unable to pick it, I used a large screwdriver as a wedge and prybar and opened the drawer with negligible damage.

Having a crowbar at work might raise eyebrows. A large screwdriver or two is more acceptable and in many respects more versatile.

Pinching in the Office

Next I would add a set of pliers. By “set” I mean a kit containing several pairs of different forms, for example fine, long-nose, curved, broad and side-cutters.

These are for all the jobs the pliers on a penknife or multitool are not ideal for.

Insulated handles are nice to have, although you should not be working on anything with live electricity.

A number of times I have been called on to repair colleagues’ jewellery.

I have a nice little set of five tools, each about four to five inches long. I picked these up in a model-railway shop.

These are backed up by a pair of heavier duty long-nose and standard pliers of about six to seven inches long.

○ Precision screwdrivers and fine pliers would be among the first tools I acquire for an office tool kit.

Nuts Loose in the Office

It is probably not your job to fix the sink. Even if you do actually know what you are doing, there are numerous good reasons why this should be left to someone paid to do the job.

You may, however, come across loose nuts on furniture in an office environment.

Your tool kit should have a set of Mole grips or an adjustable wrench for such contingencies.

Cuts in the Workplace

In this day and age, the sight of a penknife blade may cause some of your colleagues to soil their underwear.

A Stanley knife/box-cutter may be a more acceptable tool should you need to cut open packaging.

More assaults are probably committed with Stanley knives and box-cutters than penknives, but hoplophobia is not rational.

Tape It!

Final component of the basic kit would be a roll of duct tape and a roll of electrician’s insulating tape.

Additional Items

• Reorganizing is a popular distraction in offices. Will the desk fit? I am often asked if I have a tape-measure.

• Sometimes items using allen screws are encountered, so a small set of allen/hex keys might be handy.

There is a joke that Mole grips or duct tape are for things that move that shouldn’t, and that WD40 is for what won’t move but should!

• WD40 is handy for a number of things in the office. As well as being a lubricant, it can be used for cleaning.

See 2,000 Uses for WD40.

• Modifying your office environment with a hammer will probably be frowned on. It may prove tempting next time the printer or photocopier plays up!

As a starting point for your office tool kit you may have used a pre-made home kit, such as the one shown below, which includes a hammer. A claw hammer does make a useful substitute for a prybar.

• A magnifying glass may be useful for dealing with those tiny screws.

• A magnet is good for finding any screws you drop or keeping removed screws going astray.

• If working with small parts, tweezers may be handy. So too might a plastic “spudger”. You can probably carve the latter from the less-brittle examples of plastic cutlery.

• A small sewing kit may also prove handy.

• I am inclined to suggest a small flashlight might be a handy addition. My step-son will probably just point out that most people have phones with lights.

Whatever you decide upon, keep your tool kit under lock and key. Useful things like tools have a habit of getting borrowed and not returned.

Other Utility Items for the Office

My friend said tool/utility, so what else might he want in his locker? His EDC should cover most of his needs.

No idea about my friend’s current lifestyle. He may still enjoy a wild night out on the tiles. He might want a toothbrush, toothpaste, a razor and deodorant in his locker.

Female readers may wish to keep a supply of hygiene items.

Your place of work should have a stock of medical items, but you may maintain a supply of personal medication, and other items such as your preference in painkillers and anti-histamine, for example.

Spare clothing, such as clean underwear, warm hat, bandana, scarf, gloves, jumper and a poncho/rain-proof. A spare lighter and a space blanket is always prudent.

This is venturing into the topic of “get home” bags. That is a topic for another day.

Tags EDC, equipment, office, swiss army knife, tools

Phillosoph

Sharpie Skinwriter: A Proposal

Post author By losophyp
Post date 24 April 2023

Many Combat Injury-Immediate First Aid Kits (CI-IFAK) include a Sharpie marker in their contents.

This marker has a number of potential uses. It can be used to write tourniquet information on a casualty, mark an individual that has been administered morphine, or to fill in a casualty report card.

This role does not require a full-sized pen. Something about half the size would be sufficient. Is it worth creating a shorter pen to save just a couple of grams?

Our service-people are overloaded as it is, so saving a little weight where possible is prudent. When we consider whole companies and battalions being transported, saving a little weight for each person becomes a significant saving in fuel.

Creating a new model of Sharpie for this particular application also allows some useful new features to be introduced:

• The hue of human skin ranges from pale pink to dark brown. The colour of the “Sharpie Skinwriter” should be one that shows clearly on any tone of skin. This would probably be a light or medium shade of blue.

• The Sharpie Skinwriter would be approximately half the length of a standard Sharpie.

• Given that the user may be gloved and have their hands wet from blood, rain, snow etc, the cap and body of the Sharpie Skinwriter would be designed for easy manipulation under such conditions.

• Rather than grey, the body of the Sharpie Skinwriter should be made of a colour that allows it to be easily seen within the contents of the IFAK, even in diminished light levels. Medical/daylgo green is a possible choice.

My girlfriend took a look at this blog and presented me with this non-brand pen below. It is apparently used by tattoo artists.

It is 9 cm loa. The ring on the top could be used for a cord-pull loop, making it easier to remove when gloved. The barrel could do with some checkering to make it less slippery.

Pen used by Tattoo artists.

I have passed this idea on to the makers of Sharpies. Let us see if something comes of it.

Tags equipment, marker, medical, pen, sharpie

Phillosoph

Shortening the Shovel

Post author By losophyp
Post date 21 April 2023

Back when I was much younger than I am now, I worked in many temporary jobs to support myself during higher education. Warehouses, bakeries, kitchens and hospitals, to name a few of the places that I worked.

I am above average height, so I soon became aware that many of the fixtures or tools I was expected to use were too small for me. Even in this day and age, items such as vacuum cleaners, mops and sinks are designed with the assumption that they will be used by average-sized women rather than persons of my size.

In many of the places where I worked it was not uncommon to see broom-handles extended with a length of pipe. Sadly many other tools were not so easily adapted.

A Little Off the End

Recently, someone was describing to me their early working life as a labourer on building sites.

From https://www.lilliputworld.co.uk/products/britains-navvy-standing-with-shovel-trade

“One of the first things you would do is shorten your shovel by an inch.”

Given my own early working background, it may not be surprising that I could not resist asking: “Which end?”

It turned out, it was not uncommon to shorten the shovel [spade] blade and resharpen the new edge.

Resharpening the edge made the tool more efficient and negated any neglect that a previous user might have inflicted.

It also lightened the shovel a few grams, and if you were expected to use a shovel all day, this weight saving was considered to be significant and worth having.

Of a similar ilk, cleaning the tool at the end of the day was considered important. A few millimetres of concrete drying on the shovel would add weight and make the shovel harder to use the next day.

This rather reminded me of the old adage about an ounce on the feet being like a pound on the back. A slight decrease in shovel weight may significantly decrease fatigue.

Less is More?

Logically, a shorter shovel/spade blade results in a smaller volume of material that is moved by each shovelful. Less volume means less mass, so each shovelful/spadesful took less effort to move. Thus a small decrease in blade-size might mean a significant reduction in energy needed to move each spadesful, since each spadesful would be lighter.

Of course, to move a given volume would take more actions with a smaller blade, but that may be more practical than moving it as a smaller number of much heavier loads. Are half-a-dozen light loads easier to move than three that are twice as heavy?

The following diagram may not be familiar unless you work in safety, or injury liability. It shows the recommended maximal loads that should be attempted by an average male or female.

Maximum safe lifting is with the load close to the pelvis. The further the load is from this point, the less that can be safely lifted.

About 37% of work-related injuries are due to poor manual-handling practices, with a surprising number occurring in office and “white-collar” environments.

Based on the above, a shovel/spade-load and the tool being used to lift it should be around no more than 5 to 10 kilos in total mass.

In my blog on “Easier Entrenchment”, we encountered accounts of 19th century soldiers throwing up useful earthworks using trowel-sized bayonets. A narrower blade should penetrate packed earth better. Specially designed trenching shovels tend to have long heads than may be only four inches/100 mm wide. Very different from the modern, issued entrenching tool!

Can a smaller, more efficient shape make that much difference?

1873 trowel bayonet from https://worldbayonets.com/Bayonet_Identification_Guide/United_States__19th_Century_/us_19th_century_2_page2.html

All this suggests the basis for a really useful time-and-motion or ergonomics study.

What is the most effective way to throw up an earthwork with manual tools?

If the work is easier made in smaller rather than larger bites, what is the optimum size and shape of shovel blade?

I notice that some of the titanium tools on offer on the internet are not just lighter, but use blades of 200 x 90mm dimensions on a 64 cm haft.

What is the best configuration and length of handle for a typical male?

Tags entrenching, equipment, shovel, spade, survival tools

Phillosoph

Webbing Gear and Ventilation

Post author By losophyp
Post date 10 April 2023

Recently I have been reading some new stuff on “cold-dry” or “snow” survival.

Dipping back into one of my older books, I noticed this caption on an image:

“Most soldiers trained in Arctic warfare prefer to keep their webbing attached to their backpack, rather than over their clothes, which restricts movement. ”

“Survival” (1988), Len Cacutt (p.124)

If it is acceptable to not wear webbing during Arctic operations, this suggests that it may be practical to do without many of the contents of the webbing during operations in warmer climes.

Given the date and origin of the book, the webbing referred to would be the British 58-pattern. Below is an illustration from the SLR-era. The following comments are still applicable to later systems and those of many other nations.

As can be seen from the illustration, webbing carried a lot of gear that was not immediately mission relevant.

Earlier in “Survival” there is a recommendation to “eliminate all non-essential items” (p.60). It then shows webbing loaded with wash-kit, stove, mess-tins, boot-polish, cutlery etc.

Part of the problem is the kidney pouches. Their large size is a temptation to load them up.

The pouches cannot be easily removed from the system when the weight they carry is not needed.

The position of the kidney pouches also hindered the use of efficient rucksacks that transfer the weight to the pelvis.

The consequence of all this is the webbing is heavy and bulky. It cannot be worn comfortably unless the belt is clinched tight, and it requires some system of yoke or suspenders.

In the SLA Marshall loadout recently described, a notable feature was carrying the ammunition only in bandoliers. No equipment belt is mentioned. Presumably there is one, since the soldier had to carry a water canteen and possibly a pouch for his pair of grenades. However, this belt would be relatively light without 80 rounds (about 5 lbs) of ammunition weighing it down.

Note in the photo below the GI wears a belt without any clip-pouches and does not use suspenders.

Reading about pulks produced a similar observation from a Dutch source:

“As a result, Marines are now carrying a heavy backpack while moving on skis in snowy areas. An additional disadvantage of a complete package on the man is that the function of the worn clothing is not fully utilized (breathing capacity).”

In sub-zero operations it is important to avoid overheating.

Condensing perspiration can soak into clothing, reducing its insulating capability and chilling the body. This moisture can even freeze within the clothing.

There are a number of solutions to this problem. One is to not wear too much insulation. Another is to pay attention to the permeability and venting of clothes. Sweat must be prevented or allowed to escape the clothing before it becomes cold enough to condense.

It should be obvious that venting, air-circulation and removing excess insulation will all be hindered by the torso being constricted by a system of tight straps.

Air-circulation and heat-loss remain important considerations in warmer or hot-climates too.

Not only is what we carry important, but how we carry it!

Webbing/Load Carrying Equipment should be reserved for immediate-use mission gear. Items that do not qualify should be removed to a backpack. A small pack, or the detachable side-pockets of a large pack, can carry items for a 24 hour or CBRN (Chemical, Biological, Radiological, and Nuclear) operations

Decreasing the mass and bulk of webbing gear to improve air-circulation will greatly improve soldier comfort and performance. As a regular reader so eloquently puts it, it “reduces sweating without the benefits!”

A simple chest/belly rig, as described here, should be used for the primary ammunition supply. This will have three two-magazine pouches and a couple of smaller pouches for up to six (standard size) grenades, for example, two smoke and four fragmentation grenades. The only other features of the rig would be a snap-link, map/dump pocket, small weapon-cleaning kit, flashlight carrier and a mounting for a pec-knife. comms and first field dressing.

An equipment/waist belt would be lightly loaded with an CI-IFAK pouch and up to two litres of water.

In sub-zero conditions, water might be better carried in a bladder worn under the clothing to keep it liquid.

Possible additions to the equipment belt would be a handgun, handgun-magazines, long knife and possibly additional grenades and rifle-magazines. Extra munitions may be better carried by other means such as a claymore bag.

This configuration leaves the back clear for the more comfortable carrying of backpacks.

Tags backpack, equipment, military, soldier's load, webbing