Author: losophyp

In Praise of Puukko and Mora

Post author By losophyp
Post date 8 December 2024

On a number of occasions, I have talked about my favourite kukri (I own a few!). This is a ten inch sirupate with a half‑guard and a lengthened grip. This is the tool I will grab when SHTF.

What I have not so far discussed is that my kukri is just one half of a double act. It has a Companion!

With the kukri, I carry a small, fixed blade knife. Both are fitted to the same belt, along with a small pouch containing a fire kit and a sharpening stone. Note wrist loops that may be attached to the snap-links to further prevent the chance of loss.

I always have my Swiss Army Knife and mini-Leatherman on me, of course. A small fixed blade is handier, and easier to get clean after a messy task like gutting a fish.

The rationale behind having a pair of fixed blade knives is thus:

Most cutting tasks do not need a large knife. Most such cutting tasks are easier and safer with a small knife. This helps save the edge of the large knife for uses that it is really needed for.

A shorter blade and lighter knife often provides a greater level of control and precision.

A large knife can perform many of the duties of a small knife, but a small knife cannot entirely substitute for a larger blade.

Since the small blade will spend more time out of its sheath than the larger, in theory I am less likely to lose my larger blade. I can manage without the small knife better than I would manage without the larger.

Puukko

When it comes comes to useful small blades, one of the examples that comes to mind is the Finnish puukkot (singular is “puukko”).

Puukkot are about as common as snow in Finland.

Puukkot come in a variety of sizes, but the most commonly encountered are blades of 75 to 100 mm length.

Large production runs and informed buyers means puukkot are produced with good quality blades at reasonable prices. Reasonable in Scandinavia, at least. Crossing the water bumps the price up, but they are still very good knives for the money.

“Fica” knives were apparently once popular with some Russian criminal elements. This is claimed to have inspired the Soviet NR-40 knife. (With its clip point and inverted main edge, the NR-40 has some resemblance to British knuckle-duster knives used in World War One and the Second World War BC41 knife.)

Many puukkot are works of art. Some have handles carved from “curly birch”. Another grip construction utilizes stacks of washers made from reindeer skin or birch bark.

Unmounted puukkot blades are available from some suppliers. If you fancy making your own sheath and grip, I recommend Bo Bergman’s book “Knifemaking”. Not only highly informative, but beautifully photographed and recommended for knife-lovers and other hoplophiles.

I have not yet been to Finland.

I picked up this pair of knives on my last days in Denmark.

The upper example is Finnish, I believe. The grip is curly birch, with a touch of linseed oil to bring out the grain. Note the button hole in the hanger.

For ease of access, puukkot are often carried suspended from the button of a breast pocket on a shirt or jacket.

This knife is also a good size to fit in a cargo trousers’ thigh pocket. Useful if camping in areas where simpletons will freak out if you wear a belt knife openly.

Note also that these knives usually use a deep sheath that covers most of the grip. Such a sheath is very secure, but does limit the provision of a guard.

Mora Knives

I didn’t know it at the time, but the second knife is Swedish, and made by Mora.

Mora (aka Morakniv) are a Swedish knife manufacturer, and their main products are puukko-type knives.

Whether a knife can be a puukko if it is made in Sweden, I will leave for others with more time on their hands to discuss.

Mass production means good quality at very reasonable prices, so Moras are the first choice for many when it comes to choosing a small, fixed blade knife.

Moras are probably at least equal to many knives that are more than five times the price.

The most obvious difference between most Moras and puukkot is that most Moras have handles and sheaths made using plastic rather than wood and leather.

My kukri is complimented by a Mora Companion (model number 860).

I gave another Companion to my girlfriend to compliment her kukri. The Mora proved useful when she was foraging in Sardinia. She also utilised it when gathering seafood when snorkelling. She particularly praised how securely the knife stays in its sheath.

The Companion has a ten centimetre stainless steel blade of a useful and proven configuration.

The plastic sheath is well designed and very secure.The knife positively locks in position and stays in the sheath until you want it. You can quite confidently wear the knife handle down.

A slight bump at the top of the sheath mouth is provided for the thumb to push against if drawing the blade single-handed. You can also push down on the top of the belt-hanger.

The belt hanger is provided with a cut-out for hanging from a button, and the sheath is provided with a drain hole. The hanger itself is a clip, so the sheath may be worn with clip slipped over the top of a pocket or over a jacket edge.

Companions are offered in a wide range of handle and sheath colours. Mine are in a drab green or sand‑colour. Brighter colours are available for those prone to misplacing items.

The Companion, and several other models are available with either stainless steel or carbon steel blades. My preference is for stainless steel, particularly if the knife is going to be stored in a kit and not inspected for some time. Stainless steel is also recommended for fishing knives or any other use that takes you close to salt water.

Carbon steel is better for throwing sparks from ferrite, but is more prone to rusting and discolouration if neglected.

I have various other objects that can throw a spark. My kukri has chakmak and karda. Spark striking is realistically a low priority or me since my EDC includes a butane lighter and there are two in the fire kit on the knife belt. I can even use the striker wheels of the lighters to strike sparks from ferrite rods.

The only modification the Companion really needs is to drill a hole for a wrist loop or lanyard. Since the blade has a rat-tail tang, adding such a channel is a quick and simple task.

A criticism sometimes levelled at puukkot is the transition between blade and grip. The forefinger could slip forward and be cut by the edge at the base of the blade. For most uses this is unlikely, but if in a hurry, forgetful or your hands are wet, is a possibility.

The plastic handled Mora’s include a finger guard, and their plastic sheaths are designed to accommodate this feature.

Some of you reading will be discouraged by the reasonable price of a Mora Companion. It cannot be that good a quality at such a low price!

Given how low the price is, I challenge those readers who think this to take a risk and buy yourself one. Then send me a cash donation as penance for doubting my word, shame on you!

Chances are you will probably invest in a couple more Moras. At these prices, you can stash a spare in your car, your tackle box and so on.

Mora Pro Robust

When I heard about the Mora Robust/Pro Robust, I was eager to get one.

It might be a good option for situations when I can only carry a single fixed blade knife.

I was expecting a heavier bladed version of the Mora Companion. In fact, the Robust is closer to being a heavier bladed version of my Mora 511 (above, top). The grip is the same shape, and both have 9 cm carbon steel blades. The Pro Robust is described as having a 3.2 mm thick blade while the 511 is listed as 2 mm.

The Pro Robust has a beautifully polished blade. I had elected my 511 as the “kitchen Mora” and used it for something without realising it was a carbon steel blade. Leaving it for a short period without cleaning and drying it has discoloured the finish. Won’t make the same mistake with the Pro Robust.

The Robust and 511 have a more pronounced half-guard than the Companion, and consequently the sheath is a little different. Different in details, but not in features and functionality.

Like the Companion, the Robust (and the 511) lock securely into their sheaths. I have been unable to shake it hard enough to persuade the knife to drop out. I will probably pop a joint before I shake it loose.

Rather than a bulge for the thumb to push against, the top of the sheath mouth has a ridged section for the thumb. The design of the button hanging feature is also different. The most obvious difference is the knob/mushroom structure on the front. A similar feature is seen on some bayonet scabbards and is used to secure the sheath in a frog. It is a convenient structure for the fingertip to push on when drawing the knife single-handed.

There is a thicker bladed version of the Companion available, but I have yet to acquire one. This has a 3.2 mm rather than 2.4 mm thick blade.

Scandi Edge

All of the Mora knives I have owned have arrived already sharp with a good edge. Eventually you will need to resharpen, however.

Traditionally, Scandinavian knives were sharpened with what has become known as a “Scandi edge” or “zero grind”.

What this means is that the primary edge and the bevel are the same. To sharpen, you lay the knife’s bevel flat on the sharpening stone and move the blade back (or forward), depending on your preferred sharpening style.

This is very easy to do, but involves removing a lot of steel with each sharpening. The scandi edge is claimed to produce a very strong edge, useful for some applications.

Modern blade steels tend to be harder and better quality than was available to previous generations, so there is reasonable doubt as to whether a scandi edge is the best choice for modern Mora and puukkot, especially those with laminate or stainless steel blades.

There are plenty of forums and videos on the pros and cons of the scandi edge, so decide for yourself what is best for you. Personally, I sharpen my Mora the same way as I sharpen my other blades.

Bergman’s book suggests sharpening blades with an angle of 10 to 30 degrees, depending on intended application.

For a general purpose knife I would suggest an angle of 22.5 degrees. If you lack a protractor or have trouble visualizing this, fold the corner of a piece of paper in half, then fold it in half again. A quarter of 90 degrees is 22.5.

The “kitchen Mora” responds well to the butcher’s steel I use on my other kitchen blades.

If you are looking for a special present for a knife-lover or outdoorsperson, a traditional puukko is worth considering. Something both beautiful and practical.

Morakniv, aka Frosts, make a wide range of other knives, for the kitchen, the outdoors and for the workshop.

Tags fire kit, knives, kukri, lighter, mora, puukko, puukkot, sharpening, snap link, survival kit, survival knife

Phillosoph

Coveralls: A Dose of Mono

Post author By losophyp
Post date 27 November 2024

I was watching an episode of MacGyver where they break into a museum to steal a jade dragon. No gloves, and they go in through a ventilation duct. All high security buildings have spotlessly clean air ducts large enough to accommodate fully grown men, naturally.

In such a situation, I think to myself, drab-colour coveralls would probably a very good idea.

After the heist, the coveralls may be discarded to eliminate forensic evidence and change appearance. Anyone who looks like they have been crawling through dirty air ducts is going to draw attention.

Also, dressed in drab-coloured “boiler suits”, anyone that does see you may assume they are seeing maintenance or cleaners. You are probably less likely to be challenged than someone in wandering around in civies or a black polo neck.

The approach or departure to the target building may involve moving though rural terrain or parkland. A drab-coloured coverall provides a measure of camouflage in such conditions.

As an aside, I know of an airgunner who used to hunt wearing a pilot's flight suit. It was a single colour, but the loose cut created folds and patches of shade that tended to break up his shape. Fooled the bunnies, anyhow!

Around the same day as I was watching that Macgyver episode, I had been reading one of James White's “Sector General” books.

Implied in the book was that Monitor Corps personnel spend a lot of time wearing coveralls. Since most of the Monitor Corps in the books are spaceship crews or perform maintenance on the hospital station, and changing into environmental suits is fairly common, this makes good sense.

If I was designing a military-style organization from scratch, a range of coveralls for general and working wear seems a good start. Like the Spanish nearly a century ago, it may be found they are useful for field wear too.

That night, a Ghostbusters movie comes on. Dark tan coveralls are their uniform.

Before was an episode of Knight Rider, and it looks like the henchmen are wearing dark blue coveralls with a beret and police belt.

I also watched the Indian movie “Fighter”, where everyone is wearing flight suits, even if they are just cadets marching around the academy grounds.

At least two or three Bond films have the henchman spear-carriers in coveralls.

Synchronicity, or is the universe telling me to write about coveralls?

Coveralls, Overalls, Boiler Suits and Jump Suits

In British English, coverall and overall are essentially interchangeable. Americans reserve “overall” for the bib-and-brace type garment that paradoxically leaves the arms and shoulders uncovered. Brits usually call the latter “dungarees”, not to be confused with the USMC garments of the same name! Mia Goth demonstrates American overalls don't cover all below:

“Boiler suit” is another term for a coverall, unless aircrew are wearing them, when they become flight suits. Jumpsuits tend to be a snugger cut, particularly if used for free-fall jumps.

Honourable mention goes to the siren suits that helped many Brits through the Blitz.

Raider Wear

Another episode of MacGyver features Treasury men raiding a nightclub. This provides the bizarre spectacle of men in suits and ties lugging around a battering ram.

You would think that a “non-uniform” law enforcement organization would have a few “riot coveralls” or “squad suits” for such occasions.

As well as the obvious protective benefits, having a few people in such garb would at least provide some uniformed presence and prevent an operation being mistaken for a mafia outing.

An old Shomer‑Tec catalogue I have describes the Topps Squad Suit as “a rugged, low‑cost, professional‑looking garment that can be worn over, or in place of, a uniform during demanding operations.” and suggests keeping one in a patrol vehicle.

The coverall would need some form of distinction. “Law Enforcement” on a back panel would encompass the needs of most potential users. Velcro patches on sleeves and breast for more specific identification.

Elsewhere I have discussed the influence of police uniform colour on both the wearers and those they interact with. The Topps Squad Suit and many similar items come in black or very dark blue. This would be very uncomfortable in sunny locations, and looks very fascist, which may be counter productive. Dark colours also really show up any dirt.

In many parts of the world many civilians dress dark, so there is a potential for misidentification.

A coverall in police blue-green would be useful, and be an economical way to introduce and experiment with the concept.

Possibly the best single choice is “wolf grey”, as is used already by some police tactical units. As a neutral colour, it offers some concealment in many rural or urban environments and low‑light conditions for when this is needed.

Monos

During the Spanish Civil War, many of the militias were formed from factory workers. Many fought in their work overalls and coveralls, known as “monos”. Monos were found in greys, browns and khakis, but many of those of industrial origin were dark blue. One anti-fascist publication even called itself “El Mono Azul”.

The Soviet Union, Nazi Germany and Italy (among others) supplied the combatants with tanks, aircraft and advisors. Included in the military aid supplied were coveralls for tank crews, air crews and maintenance staff.

Monos became popular, not just for crewmen and technicians, but for front-line use, and not just with the ex-factory workers.

Many Spanish police formations had elaborate duty uniforms that were not suited to hard wear and combat. Police units that traditionally wore blue often selected dark blue monos.

Browns or khaki monos were more common with more conventional military units.

While the fashion of using monos as combat wear probably began with the Republican (left-wing) factory workers, troops on both sides used them.

“Osprey Men-At-Arms 074: The Spanish Civil War 1936‑39” has a number of photos and images of Nationalist (right-wing) troops wearing monos. “Osprey Men-At-Arms 498: The Spanish Civil War 1936‑39 (2) Republican Forces” notes that monos were appreciated for their pocket capacity. An International Brigade veteran recalled his comrades buying new ones before the battle of the Ebro in 1938 (MAA 498 p.44).

The Spanish CIvil War had a number of influences on military fashion, but oddly, the mono was not one.

The US Army did experiment with a one-piece jungle-fighting outfit during World War Two. Dysentery was quite common in such campaigns, so the one-piece was found to be “less than ideal” in such situations!

The Bottom Line

That brings me to a “fundamental” issue when selecting a coverall. Does it have a “bomb‑chute” or not? A number of outdoorsmen who have experimented with one‑piece outfits have failed to consider this feature!

Another common error seems to be attempting to use the pocket capacity for dense items such as water bottles and ammunition. Since coveralls are loose in cut, this often proves uncomfortable.

It occurred to me that a coverall or two might be a useful thing for an individual outdoorsman to have available, too.

Coveralls seem warm for their mass and bulk. This may be because you are trapping a single body of air that can freely circulate, rather than separate masses for the lower and upper body. Clothing riding up on your lower back is less of a problem. Coveralls can also be combined with other warm clothing, either over or under.

I suggest that for general use you buy uninsulated coveralls. It is easier to add more insulation under or over than sweat it out in milder conditions. There should be enough room to wear your coveralls over other garments.

With just a shirt and shorts beneath, a coverall should be comfortable in warmer weather.

Bug‑Out Outfits

In previous posts we have talked about the need to have a bug‑out outfit as well as a bug‑out bag. Something that you can don quickly and easily that will provide some protection from the elements and possibly help conceal you from hostile observation.

Many coveralls meet these criteria and will fit over whatever you might happen to be wearing at the time.

A good coverall usually costs less than a combat jacket. Some police riot coveralls include Goretex as well as being fire‑resistant.

If a coverall is a full‑time addition to your bug‑out kit, you can pack the pockets with useful low density gear: hats, gloves, fire kit, cordage, space blanket, compass, plastic mirror, whistle, earplugs, sun glasses and so forth.

If you are going hiking or hunting, a coverall can ride rolled up in your pack until the terrain gets rough or you are away from civilization.

Coveralls that lack a bomb‑hatch tend to be very reasonable in price, being mass produced by the thousands for painters and mechanics.

The main challenge may be finding a set in a suitable tactical colour. Army surplus outlets often have a selection, some of them being intended for tank, AFV and aircraft crewmen. Most examples are single colour, camouflage patterns in such garments being rarer.

Choice of coveralls “with bomb‑hatch” is narrower. Most of the examples I have seen have been tank- or AFV-coveralls.

My First Coverall

I am not a great fan of MTP, since it tends to blob‑out to a khaki‑drab monotone shape. On the other hand, at closer distances the pattern may make dirt or stains less obvious. I was also a little concerned the sand/beige‑coloured monotone AFV‑coveralls might be a little light for general use. I don't intend this garment as my primary camouflage, but khaki‑drab is probably the ideal monotone for British countryside.

What swung it was the MTP coveralls I was offered were cheaper than most alternatives, and were in flame-retardment material!

When the coverall arrived, I was pleasantly surprised that it was lighter in mass than I expected. I am used to military gear being on the heavy side! The cloth was actually quite soft and comfortable. I would swear it was a good quality poly/cotton, but the label says it is all aramids and other flame‑resistant stuff.

What did puzzle me was the lack of pockets. This example had only two pockets, located on the upper thighs. The examples I had been looking at definitely had chest pockets, among others.

From what I can make out, the British Army currently uses two types of AFV‑coverall.

One type (NSN 8415-99-226-0794) is currently for training only, made from poly/cotton, and of the same design as earlier monotone AFV-coveralls (NSN 8415-99-212-5330), with about a dozen pockets. The exact NATO stock number (NSN) will vary with garment size

The other type, COMBAT FR, MTP for CR2 (NSN: 8415-99-313-5415) is for combat use, made of flame‑retardant materials and of a newer design that has only two pockets!

Because of the camouflage pattern, seeing pocket details can be difficult in on-line photos. The combat coverall has no flaps on the thigh pockets. The training version does, and additional pockets on the chest, hips and lower leg. The older design has a waist drawcord (missing on my example), while the newer uses Velcro waist adjustment.

Pocket detail of the older design is easier to see on photos of the sand/beige‑coloured version.

Sand/Beige AFV-Coveralls showing pocket arrangements

Adding More Pockets

Now, I would rather have pockets and not need them than need them and not have them.

Luckily, I came across a reasonably priced damaged MTP training coverall. The coverall is too small for me, but was designed for someone of my height, so the pockets were be of the right size. Chest size was too small to fit me, but I could salvage the pockets and fit them to my flameproof coverall.

This makes my coverall slightly less flameproof, but I don't drive a tank or an F1 car, and will make an effort to avoid catching fire.

And so I spent a couple of weekends unpicking stitches and sewing pockets onto the newer coverall.

Buy the older pattern poly/cotton “training”coveralls and you can save yourself some sewing.

My coverall now has 15 pockets!

• I added a small internal pocket inside one hip pocket to hold my debit card. Also inside this pocket is a D‑ring I can hang my keys from. (The keys are mounted on a carabineer)

• Added to the left breast pocket is a loop of webbing a snap‑link can be mounted on. This folds away beneath the pen pocket flap when not needed.

The damaged and now pocketless training coverall provides me with a lot of cloth and a couple of zips and Velcro patches for other projects. I may use some of this cloth to reinforce the elbows and knee areas of my coverall. I plan to use some to add some sleeve pockets when the 12 cm zips I have ordered arrive. Armpit vent zips are another option I am considering.

Admittedly, I have not yet put the coverall to particularly challenging uses yet. I jump into it if I want to fetch something from the local shop, hence the debit card pocket and key‑hanger. I don't even need to take my dressing gown off!

It has been quite cold recently but the coverall has been comfortable with just a light hoodie thrown on over it.

Inevitably, when I get back from the shops I often lounge about in the coveralls, and have been quite comfortable without needing the heating on.

Pockets Galore

The modified coverall now has the following pocket arrangement, in addition to those already mentioned:

• Two large chest pockets, with “napoleon” zip-fastened access. Mounted on the outside of each of these is a Velcro-flapped pocket designed to hold four pen or pencil‑like objects.

• Two roomy patch hip pockets, with slanted zip-closure. Zipped pocket closures are a feature many expensive combat and outdoor trousers often lack!

• Two Velcro‑flapped thigh cargo pockets. On the outside of each is a pocket designed to hold and allow the use of a notepad when seated. These are rather like those found on flight suits, but have a sideways opening panel to hide the notepad when not in use. The notepad inserts from one side.

I sewed the thigh pockets to the upper surface of the existing thigh-top pockets the coverall had. These latter pockets are roomy, bellowed and have a side‑zip, allowing them to be accessed when seated.

• There are also two roomy calf‑level cargo pockets. These are probably best used for low density items such as cordage, emergency toilet paper in a ziplock, and a space‑blanket. If I have to use bowyangs with my coverall, I may experiment with passing them under the flap of the calf pockets. Calf pockets are a logical place to store bowyangs.

Adding pockets to a coverall proved to be a relatively simple task. Despite the different material, mine were a near perfect match. It doesn't really matter if the cloth you are using is not an exact match. Variations in hue and shade will add to the disruptive effect.

Zips and Handles

The main zip of the coverall is two-way, opening at each end. This zips up all the way to the points of the collar, rather like a Norwegian Army shirt. The left side is thoughtfully provided with a flap of material that prevents the zip teeth contacting your neck or cheek when the collar is worn open. The older version lacks this flap, but it is easily added.

Decades past, I read a book or comedy skit where a character claims fly zippers were mounted the wrong way, and should pull up to open. The coverall zipper does pull up to open, and that character is actually right! It is much easier to operate such a zipper one‑handed!

And a few days ago I came across some rain pants I brought in British Columbia (where they know about rain!). The zips on the side pockets pull up to open! Something to think about if modifying gear.

A two‑way zip is handy for situations other than a call of nature. You can open the lower end more to access garments and pouches worn under the coveralls.

If you keep your trousers up with a rigger's belt, opening the zip from the bottom allows you to use this, combined with your carabineer keyring.

On the subject of calls of nature, both the training and the combat coverall have a J‑shaped zip at the rear, covered by a Velcro flap.

What appear to be shoulder straps are in fact grab handles. On the newer coverall, these are held down with Velcro so they are less likely to catch on projections within a vehicle or out in the field. A one‑piece garment and such handles allow a wounded or stunned man to be pulled up out of a damaged vehicle.

These handles could be used like shoulder straps to display rank, but would need a wrap‑around rank insignia rather than a slip‑over. Poppers are probably the best way to achieve this, although buttons, Velcro or hook and eye fastening are other options.

Both MTP coveralls have side vents that allow you to access the hip pockets of garments worn underneath. On both coveralls, the left is secured by Velcro and the right by a zipper. I have no idea why!

The right vent could be used to increase air circulation to the coverall interior. I suppose the rear zip could be used in this way too.

I have heard it claimed coveralls are often long in the body or short in the leg, but this example is actually a very good fit for me, and I am long‑legged.

Many old soldiers seem obsessed by the topic of blousing trouser legs. Doesn't matter that young soldiers have inadequate camouflage practice and their vehicles have no armour, rant about those trouser bottoms!

Many coveralls have elasticated ankles, so “problem” solved! If blousing is so essential, why don't combat trousers have the same? (Not really an issue with me, and I am an advocate of gaiters when available).

Many coveralls also have calf zips that allow you to put them on or remove them without removing boots. It also lets you roll up the legs, should there be a need.

Cons

Other than less than the expected number of pockets, my major complaint about the coverall is that the fly (flap of fabric over the main zip) and the baffle (draft excluder flap behind the zip) seem to be made the minimum width necessary. Someone doubtless worked out this would save so much cloth and so many pence per hundred coveralls made.

It would have been nice if the fly had been wide enough to allow popper fastening as an alternative in hot weather to using the main zip. I could always open the lower end of the zip, I suppose, provided there are no objections to me having my flies open!

The main zip and that of the right side vent have a tendency to catch on the fly or the baffle if you are not careful when zipping up. This may be due to the zips themselves, which have quite small teeth. The zips on the training coverall seem better in this respect, although the main zip on mine was the major incidence of damage.

The Velcro on many of the pockets is a potential source of noise, which means you may not wish to access those pockets in certain situations.

The Velcro pile on the sleeve cuff sometimes catches on a square of hook Velcro on the chest pocket, resulting in unintentional noise. Admittedly, this mainly occurs if the cuff has not been fully closed, so is more likely in hot weather. The square of hook holds the pen pocket flap open, so could be removed or covered by various means. Or construct a tape‑like strip of cloth that covers the exposed section of pile on the cuff.

Update

Zips arrived. I based the sleeve pockets on those often seen on many bomber jackets, with a vertical side zip. A five inch zip is a little small for this, even with my small hands, so I would suggest using six-inch.

The armpit zips have an opening less than five inches, but using a smaller zip might have been too fiddly. It is easier to shorten a longer zip.

Reasonably happy on how the sleeve pockets and armpit vent zips have turned out.

The grey zips are much less obvious than the flash photography makes them appear.

Coveralls are easily modified or customized. Some of the features described on this page may provide you with inspiration. If anyone is interested, I can provide details and measurements of the pockets I used.

Does a coverall have a place in your outdoor wardrobe? If you are not sure, it is within most of our means to experiment with one of the lower priced examples. It will probably prove useful for something, even if it is just doing the gardening or clearing out the garage.

Just please don't rob any museums.

Tags boiler suit, bomb-hatch, bug-out, bug-out outfit, clothing, coverall, dungarees, equipment, flies, flight suit, macgyver, mia goth, MTP, overall, pockets, siren suit, survival kit, velcro, zipper, zips

Phillosoph

Why a Wakizashi?

Post author By losophyp
Post date 17 November 2024

Recently, I have been watching the “Rurouni Kenshin” series of movies. “Origins” was a little slow and melodramatic, but the main ones are great entertainment.

The lead character's gimmick is they use a sword with a sharpened back‑edge and a blunt main edge. He clubs enemies down with the main edge in an attempt to not take any more lives.

This reminded me of a passage in Don Cunningham's book “Taiho‑Jutsu”:

“For such situations, the machi-kata dōshin [samurai police official] carried a special long jutte, usually with a tapered six- or eight-sided shaft, as their primary weapon and arresting tool. They also only wore one short sword in their obi. The dōshin either grinded the ha (sharpened edge) off their wakizashi or carried special wakizashi forged with extra-thick dull blades. The short blunted wakizashi were considered more suitable for making arrests, especially within confined spaces. A resisting suspect could easily be stunned and immobilized with a strike from such a blade without risking a potentially lethal injury as with a sharpened sword.”

I will admit to being sceptical as to whether anyone ever ground the edge off a perfectly good and valuable wakizashi for such purposes. It seems easier and more effective to fit a suitable strip or billet of iron with sword furnishings.

That such blunted weapons were carried seems possible, since the feudal police seemed to have taken considerable lengths to take their suspect alive.

Why did the police officer have a blunted sword when he already had a jutte? Possibly to show that he had samurai rank. Why did he carry a wakizashi rather than a daishō? The following passages should shed some light on that.

Most readers will know that the samurai wore two swords, known as a “daishō”. It would become enshirned in law that a samurai on official business was required to wear two swords.

Daishō means “big and little” and reflects that the two swords were of differing lengths.

In earlier periods, the daishō might be a tachi and a long tanto. By the Edo period, both weapons were katana, which were worn edge up.

In modern usage “katana” is a term usually used to distinguish the long sword. Historically, the term could be used for either of the daishō, and to distinguish them the terms “uchi‑katana/uchigatana” were used for the longer sword (“daitō”) and “chisa‑katana/chisagatana”, ko‑dachi, kogusoku, ko‑katana, wakizashi or shotō for the shorter.

To avoid confusion, I will reserve the term katana for the longer sword, as is common modern practice.

Why Did The Samurai Carry Two Swords?

Part of the reason was probably symbolic. Two swords was the symbol of a samurai and if you were a samurai, you therefore wore two swords.

Practical explanations for the practice are less satisfying. The short sword was a backup for it the long sword was lost in battle. The short sword was for removing the heads of slain opponents. The short sword was for seppuku.

Other than length, the short and long swords are effectively the same in design. Why a short sword would be better at cutting heads from corpses than a longer variant flies in the face of basic physics. Taking heads was also a task attributed to the kubikiri/kubigiri, which is of a very different form to either of the daishō.

Was the wakizashi carried for seppuku? Most samurai movies seem to use the katana with a cloth or paper wrapped around the blade for grip.

George Cameron Stone's book, “A Glossary of the Construction, Decoration, and Use of Arms and Armor in All Countries and in All Times: Together with Some Closely Related Subjects” (p.658) claims the wakizashi was used for seppuku, but its use had declined in favour of a dagger in more recent periods.

Some samurai fought with a blade in each hand, and utilized their wakizashi in their left. This seems to have been an uncommon practice, however.

Some writers have dismissed the wakizashi as redundant and superfluous. And yet, the wakizashi or weapons like it were widely carried for at least six hundred years!

Safety in the Home

The samurai did not always wear both swords. Etiquette required the long sword not be worn indoors when visiting a superior or another samurai. Wearing the long sword in such a situation was disrespectful, if not outright suspicious and threatening.

In his own home, the long sword might be stored in a rack, or entrusted to a servant for cleaning and sharpening.

When indoors, the samurai only wore his wakizashi, or possibly just a tanto. If the wakizashi was not worn thrust through his sash, it would be within easy reach, such as beside him as he knelt on the floor.

If a samurai was attacked in his home, the wakizashi or tanto would be the weapon most likely to be available.

The wakizash/tanto were the weapons the samurai would have to rely on when he was in most need of a defensive weapon. Not surprisingly, there was a considerable body of training on how to use a wakizashi.

Indoor combat might be at close ranges, so the use of the wakizashi and other weapons was studied in conjunction with grappling techniques. Techniques that could be used while kneeling or seated were also studied. Some techniques involved hindering an attacker drawing their weapon, or taking their weapon and/or using it against them.

For example, as a kneeling attacker attempts to draw a wakizashi, a hand on his wrist may prevent him completing the action. The wrist hold and the other hand are used to unbalance and throw the attacker forward, possibly falling on the exposed edge of his own blade.

If he could afford it, a samurai would see that both swords of a daishō would have matching fittings and decoration. Ideally both were made by the same craftsmen. Stone suggests that the wakizashi would often be the more ornately decorated, since this is the sword that would be worn during indoor social occasions.

The wakizashi was also the one of the pair likely to mount accessories and implements such as the kogai and kozuka. This made these items available when the long sword was not being worn. This approach may have also prevented the possibility of the kogai and kozuka interfering with the draw of the long sword. Kogai and kozuka were sometimes used as expedient bo-shuriken, so having them with the wakizashi might have given the wearer another option if attacked indoors.

Something for the Ladies

Samurai women were expected to fight in defence of their homes and persons. The naginata was the usual weapon of choice, but instruction was given in the use of the wakizashi and dagger and include the kusarigama.

The naginata and kusarigama are relatively long‑ranged weapons. If an enemy got too close, or combat was indoors, the wakizashi or dagger were a useful alternative.

For Lord and Commoner

Only the samurai were permitted to wear the daishō. In addition, commoners (non‑samurai) were not allowed to have long swords.

What is not so commonly know is that commoners were permitted to have short swords.

Cunningham notes (p.22):

“While katana (long swords) were prohibited, chōnin [townspeople] and nōmin [farmers] were still allowed to carry tanto (daggers) as well as short swords known as wakizashi. For many years after the end of the Japanese civil wars, though, commoners did not always abide by the laws prohibiting swords. One reason was that the actual measurements used to define katana, wakizashi, and tanto were confusing and often inconsistently applied in many of these laws. Thus during the early part of the Edo period (early1600s), some chōnin, and especially yakuza, or criminal gang members, openly carried long wakizashi that were virtually equivalent to prohibited katana.”

It was not until 1645 that a law defined the maximum blade length of katana as 2 shaku 8 or 9 sun (33.5 to 34.5‑inches/85.5 to 87.5 cm) and wakizashi as 1 shaku 8 or 9 sun (21.5 to 22.5‑inches/55.5 to 57.5 cm). [figures and conversions from Cunningham]

In 1668, chōnin were restricted to carrying ko‑wakizashi of blade no longer than 1 shaku 5 sun (approximately 17.5 inches or 45.5 cm) without official permission. There was no restriction on a commoner wearing a ko‑wakizashi, but it was unlikely for the weapon to be worn when on day‑to‑day business.

Later amendments permitted the carrying of “full‑sized” wakizashi under certain circumstances, such as travel and fire.

A travelling commoner was allowed to carry a wakizashi as a defence against robbers.

Fires were common in feudal Japanese towns. Commoners forced from their homes by the threat of fire were permitted to carry wakizashi to protect what other possessions they had managed to carry with them.

Serge Moll, in “Classical Weaponry of Japan” (p.19) notes an alternate name for a short sword was “dochuzashi”: “Dochu literally means “while on the street” or “while on a journey,” so one could describe a dochuzashi as a short sword inserted in the sash while one was traveling.”

The characters commonly used to spell wakizashi may be read as meaning “insert at the side”. The practice of wearing the daishō was termed “nihonzashi” (“insert two (swords)”)

Moll also gives a definition of ko‑wakizashi as between 30 and 40 cm, and that longer ones (up to 60 centimetres) were called Owakizashi (“big wakizashi”)

Doubtless, a commoner would avail themselves of their wakizashi or ko‑wakizashi in the event of a burglary or home invasion.

The short swords owned by commoners were probably more utilitarian and lower priced than that owned by a prosperous samurai. For every famed Japanese swordsmith, there were probably scores of blacksmiths turning out commoners' blades.

What is in a Name?

Time I addressed the topic of terminology.

Some Wikipedia articles and other websites use very narrow definitions of some of the terms that have been used in this article. A wakazashi is this! A kodachi is a quite different thing and is this! And so on. There is little credible precedent for these narrow and exact definitions, and they may prove counterproductive to your actual understanding.

We are talking a considerable period of history, large geographical area, varying levels of education and often no centralized system of standardization.

The distinction between tantos, kodachi, wakizashi, shotō etc are in practice less distinct and more fuzzy than is represented by some modern writers. Often these terms were used interchangeably or with a degree of overlap.

Moll: “The meaning of the terms “long sword” and “short sword” changed over the centuries. Nowadays, all swords that are shorter than two shaku (approximately 60 centimeters)! but longer than one shaku (approximately 30 centimeters) are called shotō, or “short swords.””

This definition nicely encompasses all wakizashi, but also includes some tantos and other Japanese knives. Moll also notes some ryu define their kogusoku/kodachi techniques as being for tanto and short swords of “up to 36 cm length”. Other ryu consider kogusoku/kodachijutsu to be methods for tanto/knife and/or short sword and it is quite probable in some cases the latter refers to wakizashi.

Some of you will know the “‑to” part of the term tanto actually designates that the hilt has a sword‑type guard. You will see some sources refer to tanto as “short swords” or “swords”. Other identical forms and sizes of Japanese blade, fitted to different varieties of hilt, are never called a sword. This is confusing to a reader not aware of the word's origin, when the weapon is clearly a knife or dagger in form and function.

“Dagger” itself is a problematic term, since it has been misappropriated and misused by the legal systems of certain American states, creating the false impression that the term only applies to double‑edged weapons.

Cameron Stone observes the term seems to be applied to any variety of knife, save a clasp knife. (p.198)

Wakizashi in Combat

We have seen the wakizashi/shotō was used by samurai and commoner, and by both men and women. How effective a weapon is it?

If you have ever handled a real, full‑length sword, be it Japanese or otherwise, you may have been surprised. Length and mass add up to considerable inertia. Keeping such a sword under control needs strength, conditioning and considerable practise.

Fencing swords are a possible exception to the above statement, although it is debatable if those used as sporting equipment should be considered real swords.

A shorter blade, such as a wakizashi or machete, is another thing entirely. They are light and agile.

Moll (p.21) comments that the greater speed of a wakizashi made to more effective than a longer sword against fast attacks by longer weapons such as spear thrusts.

Long weapons such as spears and naginata, tend to have an optimum range within which they are most effective. If one can close within this distance, the advantage of the longer weapon is often lost and the user may be at a considerable disadvantage.

The speed of a wakizashi improved the chances of parrying an initial attack so that distance could be closed. The wakizashi's greater manoeuvrability was an advantage when distance was reduced, since it was easier to apply either the edge or point than with a longer and heavier sword.

If using a long weapon and an enemy attempted to close distance, the wakizashi was also a good choice for a backup weapon to deal with close range threats.

The combination of a long weapon and a shorter one may be seen in some other cultures. The German landsknecht, with his pike, halberd or zweihander wore a short sword called a katzbalger (“cabbage cutter”). The huntsman with a boar spear often wore a long wood knife or hanger.

The wakizashi is short enough to be used for the close‑range fighting techniques of kogusoku/kodachijutsu but long enough to use the daitō techniques taught in kenjutsu.

The lighter weight and reduced inertia made a wakizashi more responsive and effective than a longer sword if used in one hand. Its ability to be used one‑handed and shorter length allowed use of the wakizashi to be combined with strikes and grappling attacks from the other hand. The use of a wakizashi could be combined with weapons wielded in the other hand, such as a jutte, tessen (fan), tanto or manrikigusari.

The wakizashi was also a more practical weapon to use in one's weaker hand. Nitoken was often practiced with the wakizashi in the left hand and a katana in the right (all Japanese swordsmen were taught to fight with their right hand as primary). Figure 1-8 of Moll's book shows nitoken using a kodachi in each hand, an interesting variation with considerable potential, particularly if used with the principles of long har chuan.

Being shorter and lighter, a wakizashi may be drawn in less time than a longer sword. I suspect the wakizashi will often taste blood while the katana is still leaving the station. I have come across references to Japanese bodyguards wearing short blades in full‑length sheaths as a deception.

As we have seen, the wakizashi might be used for combat indoors, and seems well suited for the purpose. Using a katana indoors may not have been as practical and elegant as the movies make it seem. A traditional Japanese ceiling was only 220 to 240 cm high, which must have hindered some of the classic kenjutsu moves. How many samurai embedded their katana in a rafter and fell victim to a wakizashi, one wonders. Not all the walls were paper, so narrow corridors may also have hindered a swordsman too.

One begins to appreciate why the ninja favoured short blades for their ninjato.

This is doubtless the reason why the machi-kata dōshin described above carried a blunted wakizashi and not a katana. There was a good chance he might have to fight indoors, and a wakizashi‑length weapon was superior to a katana in such locations.

This more in‑depth look at the wakizashi has made me think about other warriors that used short weapons, such as the Egyptian with his kopesh, and the Roman with his gladius. The shorter gladius was obviously handier during the close press of massed combat. Did it also over an advantage parrying against spears and longer weapons? Shaka invented the short ilkwa, giving the Zulus a significant advantage over most of their enemies.

I have liked wakizashis from the first time I handled one. The above research and analysis shows my initial gut reaction was not off target.

I have also learnt they have a much broader and significant history than is generally known. It was an important weapon for commoner and noble alike.

The wakizashi is overshadowed by the katana. Short swords don't look as good up on the screen as long ones. The wakizashi is probably a much more practical choice, particularly those of use who do not have the necessary time needed to master the inertia of longer weapons.

I have a replica wakizashi that is of particular interest. It has a 20 inch blade and an eight and a half inch grip.

Not particularly long‑bladed for a wakizashi, but long enough for most tasks I might ask of it. It is longer than many machetes, for example. It only looks short if you put it alongside a full‑length katana. The shorter weapon handles much better.

The eight and a half inch handle is a nice feature. This is longer than is found on some wakizashi, and gives a shade more leverage when using two‑handed techniques.

The Japanese blade shape is widely recognized as an efficient design. There is good reason it changed little for hundreds of years. Slightly curved for a more effective cutting action, straight enough to allow the point to easily be brought into action.

I have a modernized “ninjato” of similar dimensions. Grip a shade longer, blade a little shorter. People who have handled this sword react very positively to it, often surprising themselves. It just feels right!

I have a better quality wakizashi, longer blade and shorter grip. The oval section of the handle is less sharp and more comfortable, but it is the 20+8 that feels right.

A typical single doorway is 28 inches wide. Unless, for some bizarre reason I hold my wakizashi sideways and horizontal, a doorway is little obstruction to me when holding a wakizashi.

If, by some freak of chance that I ever have enough money to have a sword custom made for me, I think I might actually opt for a 20 inch wakizashi with an eight and a half inch grip. It is probably a far more practical and versatile option than a longer weapon.

Many years ago, this blog looked at Marc MacYoung’s suggestion on using a sword for home defence. To the comments already made there, I will add that you pay special attention to length and inertia. The reasons for my saying so should be obvious by now.

In some parts of the world, pointless local laws may prevent you owning a katana unless you are rich enough to buy antiques. Some of these laws permit a blade of 50 cm or less, which ironically may result in you getting a more effective weapon!

Many years ago, I read an article where the author noted that if you did want to own a genuine antique Japanese blade, buying a wakizashi might be the better option, since prices were often more bearable.

Wakizashis are not your only choice, of course. Many of the benefits already described also apply to machetes, barongs, kindjal, goloks, hangers, falchion and kukris, to name just a few.

To finish, a rather nice video:

There are several things to note here.

Note how the wakizashi attacks and defences come from a low position. This will be familiar to some of you from the baton, entrenching tool and machete techniques in “Crash Combat”. This is much more useful than waving a weapon around over your head.

Note the wooden wakizashi is gripped a short distance below the guard, protecting the hand from any forceful blows the guard may take.

Also, note how the wakizashi allows one hand to shield the eyes against the sun while the polished surface of the blade would be used to reflect sunlight back at the attacker's eyes.

Tags japan, katana, sword-fighting, swords, wakizashi

Phillosoph

Morse Code without Electricity

Post author By losophyp
Post date 3 November 2024

Recently I was recently reading a science fiction novel. The crew of a spaceship are without power, and have to warn another ship to keep its distance. They can be seen at a window. They resort of pantomiming “pushing‑away” actions. Using Morse code does not seem to occur to them.

How do you use Morse code without electricity? There are ways to do this, and they are possibly not so well known as some other methods.

The first method is taken from this useful website. It has a passing resemblance to semaphore, but uses standard Morse code, which is far more likely to be known by the sender or viewer.

You do not need to have flags to use this system. You can use the motions if your hands are empty. Holding a scarf, bandana or branch in each hand may be used to make your motions more visible. Coloured stuffsacks may be stretched over a flexible stick bent into a racket-shape. Depending on the background, taking off dark‑coloured gloves or wearing lighter gloves may aid empty‑handed signalling.

Back when I was blogging about American Civil War outfits, I read the book “Hardtack and Coffee”. A fascinating book, which finished with a chapter on the pre‑Morse signalling system used during the war.

This system, called “Wigwag” in some other sources, used a single flag (or disc).

This system may also be used with Morse code, and may be still referred to as “wigwag” or “wig‑wag”.

The convention here is a little different to that used with two‑flags. Flag up is “ready” or “word begins” rather than “dot”.

“Dot” (Two) is starboard: to the right of the signaller, to the left of the observer. Easily remembered because we read from left to right in English.

“Dash” (One) is port, as in “a dash of port”.

No flag? You can use the single pole method with a rifle, a hiking pole or a branch. Add a scarf to the end or anything else that makes your signal more visible.

You can also clasp your hands together as though you are about to dive and point your straightened arms up, down, left and right. Point them straight ahead between dots and dashes.

That said, my personal feeling is that the two-flag method is better for empty handed signalling. The shapes made are more distinct and wider or taller.

In these days of electronic warfare and eavesdropping, such simple visual methods of signalling still have a place. Establish a shorthand of one, two and three letter signals.

Non‑Electric Morse at Night

If you want to signal at night, you may flash a light. If your light cannot easily be turned on or off, you may be able to cover it with your hand, hat, map or similar.

This is not so easy if you are using a light source such as a burning brand. When viewed at a distance at night, a single light source can appear to move about even when it is not moving. “Hardtack and Coffee” tells us:

“The services of the Signal Corps were just as needful and valuable by night as in daylight; but, as the flags could not then talk understandingly, Talking Torches were substituted for them. As a “point of reference” was needful, by which to interpret the torch signals made, the flagman lighted a “foot torch,” at which he stood firmly while he signalled with the “flying torch.” This latter was attached to a staff of the same length as the flagstaff, in fact, usually the flagstaff itself. These torches were of copper, and filled with turpentine. At the end of a message the flying torch was extinguished.”

Our spacemen in the book could have used a non‑electric method of Morse signalling. Perhaps a piece of material with a different symbol and/or colour drawn on each side. Later in the book the natives of a planet signal using a pivoted disc painted white on one side, black on the other. It is commented that this is the local equivalent to Morse.

Morse by Sound

Morse signalling with sound was not an option for the spacers.

Often in movies, someone will bang on pipes and a character will identify it as “Morse code”. Morse needs two distinct signals, so most Morse letters cannot be transmitted with a single note such as a tap on a pipe. The code you need for this is POW tap code.

One of the few messages you can transmit with a single note is SOS (…—…). With a signal whistle, you make three short blasts, three longer blasts, then three more short, no pauses between the letters.

If you are drumming against a tree trunk or piece of wreckage, you cannot do this. Instead you vary the interval between the notes: three quick notes, three notes with a longer pause after each, then three more quick.

I have recently updated my blog on learning Morse with some new reference and some new tricks to help you remember certain letters.

Phillosoph

Knife Throwing: Strength and Spin-Less Throws

Post author By losophyp
Post date 11 October 2024

Most of a lifetime ago, I encountered the “thrower list” on the then newfangled internet.

The thrower list was about knife throwing and other thrown weapons, and run by a gentleman we will call MJR.

The thrower list and thrower site has long since disbanded, but the knife throwing.info site maintains an archive of some of the valuable information the thrower held.

I was curious about a number of related topics, including Chinese piao/piau. I was to discover that no one on the list knew much about them, so I shared the little I knew. MJR turned my post into a webpage, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Over a thousand webpages, blog articles and several books later, I am still writing.

I also learnt to throw knives.

Recently, I reached out to a number of people I had lost contact with. One of these was Christian, the administrator of the knife throwing.info list.

Christian has asked me to write about “Taylor Power Throwing Technique One”, a derived version of which I call “punch throwing” in my book.

Before I can write about that technique, I feel I need to prepare the ground by addressing some other topics related to knife throwing.

Super Secret Spin‑Less Throws!

Reading an article on the knife throwing.info site, I was somewhat bemused to read the claim that spin‑less knife throwing was a lost art rediscovered in the early 21st Century.

I put a couple of techniques of spin‑less throwing in my first book: “Attack, Avoid, Survive”. The “secret” was there for anyone who brought the book!

Many of the members of the original thrower list, myself included, were using spin‑less methods in the mid-90s.

Kevin She had a very simple method I christened “She-Finger”, which I used. It took about a minute to learn.

I cannot recall how much success I had with the “Shirakami technique” after reading MJR's article on it. It proved relatively easy to learn once I acquired a copy of Shirakami’s book.

I sent another copy of that book to another thrower regular, Ed Sackett. Ed was an enthusiastic, generous and imaginative thrower, and I would be very surprised to learn that Ed had not persisted until he had mastered it. If he had had problems, I would have learnt of it, since Ed and myself exchanged emails on diverse topics a couple of times a week, at least.

Throwers of the World! Relax!

The “new” knife throwing.info pages often emphasise that spin‑less throws need strength or are tough on the joints.

Similar statements are made about gripping knives or other elements of knife throwing in general.

I can only disagree.

With the exception of “punch throwing”/“Taylor Power Throwing Technique One”, needing lots of effort is contrary to my own experience of spin‑less throwing and of knife throwing in general.

Firstly, do not grip your knife any harder than you need. One of the things that will cause problems with your knife throwing is an inconsistent grip. If your grip pressure varies, for example, because your hand gets tired from an unnecessarily strong grip, you will see variable results.

If you use more energy than your projectile can absorb, that extraneous power has to go somewhere else. If you are experiencing joint pain, this may be the cause and you may need to make an adjustment.

To any new throwers or throwers having trouble, I would advise “relax, let the mass of the knife do the work”.

Relaxed body parts may be moved faster, so greater speed is actually produced by “making an effort not to make an effort”. This is the foundation of all the better martial arts and fighting styles, incidentally.

The original thrower pages had some advice along the lines of: “as range increases, throw higher, not harder”. Good advice from MJR, although my recollection (possibly faulty) was that he liked to fastball his knives. My probably flawed, failing memory is that I suggested this might be contributing to problems with mastering Shirakami’s technique. I was lucky enough to meet the gentleman in real life, and we threw a few.

Incidentally, knives and other low‑velocity missiles are never thrown “point blank”, as some authors term it.

Point blank does not mean “close”, as it is frequently misused. Point blank means aimed without an allowance for drop.

Thus, knives are never thrown “point blank”. Their trajectory should always take them above their intended target. Some throwers inherently know this, but it is a topic books on the subject seldom touch on.

Throw Like a Girl?

On the subject of strength, why are there separate male and female sections of throwing competitions?

Knife throwing is a pastime involving accuracy, precision and skill. There is no reason why men and women cannot compete with each other.

If desired, you can maintain separate streams of prizes: Best female, third best male, second best cute Japanese schoolgirl, and so forth. Gender is a Gordian issue these days, however. Only a matter of time before the woke nazis stick their upturned noses in.

Shirakami Revisited

Last night, I took my copy of Shirakami Ikku‑Ken’s “Shuriken‑Do” down off the shelf, and finally broke my “no throwing in the nice house” rule.

I collected a diverse assortment of spikes (thank you, Jason!), and without looking at the book, tried a technique I had not tried in well over a decade.

The first was a “clanger”, but that is to be expected after such a long time, and may have been due to a poor choice of grip on a longer than normal spike.

Second and every other throw, hit and stuck in the target.

I wasn't aiming at a particular mark, but all were within a few inches of each other, despite their varied lengths, shapes and masses.

Yep! Still got it!

This is the first of the techniques called “push throwing” in “Attack, Avoid, Survive”, and is my interpretation of Shirakami’s spin‑less technique.

Shirakami’s book has far less text on spin‑less (“direct” p.42) throwing than you might expect. A single paragraph before moving on to half‑turn and multiple‑turn throws.

Useful range for direct throwing is given as 5.5 metres (which is about 18 shaku/3 ken in old Japanese units)

The contribution of finger brushing/friction is mentioned in the book. MJR actually writes more on this element than Shirakami.

From my experience, finger brushing is a component, but not something I consciously notice or attempt to do. The spike or knife leaves the hand with the hand pronated (palm down) so the rear part naturally slides across the lower surface of the fingers.

The throwing action that I use for “Shirakami-style” is rather like slapping down a card or domino, although with considerably less violence than some card and domino games I have witnessed!

It is an unhurried, relaxed, even lazy looking motion. Follow-through naturally.

I have described the Shirakami technique as “tai chi-style”‑throwing. You need to be able to relax your upper body and waist to use it successful. There is a motion in the shuriken kata (“The First Movement”, p.66) where you raise your arms up horizontally to the sides. I use this motion to loosen up and relax before a throw. Perhaps that is one of the reasons why it is in there?

I have some experience with tai chi and soft martial arts. This, and some would claim, my inherent laziness, made learning Shirakami’s spin‑less throw variant relatively easy for me.

If your method of knife throwing involves lots of sweat and muscular effort, you will probably have problems and may conclude that it cannot be done. It can. It is relatively easy. You need to learn to use less effort!

Phillosoph

Improving My Fine Screwdriver Set

Post author By losophyp
Post date 29 September 2024

Recently, it I began to suspect that the battery of my watch was running down.

I ordered a replacement.

When the new battery arrived, I went about changing the battery of the watch for the first time.

This was to turn into “one of those jobs”!

Part of the problem was an oddly shaped O-ring that needed to be exactly placed in position when reattaching the back of the watch, along with another component. (If an object with twelve sides may be called an “O-ring”!)

Another problem was partially of my own making. I managed to drop all four tiny screws on to the carpet.

Given how bad my vision is getting, I was actually impressed I managed to locate all four without recourse to magnification nor magnetism.

Before I had started the job, I had thought about the magnet sitting on a table within arm’s reach, but been too lazy to get it. My set of fine screwdrivers even has a magnetic tool I could have placed the loose screws on, although this might have been on the small side.

Lessons Learnt

So, after the job had been completed, I thought about lessons learned and solutions to problems encountered.

• One problem had been locating the fine screwdriver set in the cupboard where I keep my tools. The cupboard is rather dark, and the search was not helped by the fact that I had placed the kit inside another box and forgotten about it. While little can be done about my ageing and failing memory, I placed some red tape on the black box so it is a little easier to see.

• A larger magnet added to the box would be useful. I had planned to glue this inside the box, but instead attached it to the outside so that it would be more useful picking up dropped items. A second magnet inside would be useful to secure detached components, but I only have one small magnet handy at the moment, so placed it on the outside.

• Handling the tiny screws had been fiddly, and probably contributed to my dropping them. I have several sets of tweezers or forceps over with my modelling tools across the room, but laziness again. Adding a pair of straight and curved fine tweezers to the actual box of fine screwdrivers seemed prudent. None of my current examples would fit in the box, so I searched the web for examples that were short enough.

In the first photo you can see the magnet glued to the top left corner of the closed box.

In the second photo, you see the box contents with the additions below. Curved and straight fine tweezers. An additional fine screwdriver I got with a hard-drive enclosure.

Tags glasses, magnet, screwdriver, sunglasses, tools

Phillosoph

Surviving Management

Post author By losophyp
Post date 28 September 2024

There have not been many posts recently.

One of the reasons for this is that I have been concentrating on the fourth (and final) edition of Crash Combat. This has progressed quite nicely and is available now in both print and epub format. With lots of new techniques and concepts added, the fourth edition is 50% larger than the original edition.

I have touched on the topic of surviving an office space previously.

A week or so ago I happened upon a most interesting book: “First, Break All The Rules, what the world's greatest managers do differently” by Marcus Buckingham.

The business world abounds will all sorts of management strategies, methods and philosophies. Some seem to be well meaning, while others have a whiff of snake oil or butt-smoke about them.

Such systems seem popular with certain companies. Sometimes they are a way to avoid addressing genuine problems, and if things go wrong, “blame the consultant”.

Many of us have managers, or manage other people. A survival situation, whether it is an emergency or long-term, may involve organizing individuals to work together. If nothing else, this book will be useful in that it allows you to “know your enemy”

Unlike most management schemes, “First, Break All The Rules.” is based on actual empirical evidence. The well-known company Gallup interviewed over a million employees and 80 thousand managers, good, bad and mediocre.

Among other things, the book nicely explains why so many management strategies don’t actually work. They are based on false premises.

For example, a person’s abilities are based on their skills, knowledge and talents. Skills and knowledge may be improved, and may contribute to the use of a talent. Talents, however, are inherent. They may be hidden, may be discovered, may be developed, but they cannot be created!

If someone does not have a talent in a particular area, no amount of training, threats, bribes, diversity awareness, personal development reviews or bullying can change this.

Thus, a good manager will allow for this and organize to best utilize abilities and compensate for lacks thereof. They utilize an individual's strengths and talents and compensate for weaknesses and nontalents.

“People don’t change that much.

Don't waste time trying to put in what was left out.

Try to draw out what was left in.

That is hard enough.”

For example:

“Jim K., a full bird colonel in the army—an organization that might be forgiven for emphasizing flexibility and camaraderie over individual excellence—gives this description of team building:

'When I first assemble the platoon I ask each person to tell me what activities he is mostly drawn to. One will say sharpshooting. One will say radio. One will say explosives. And so on. I'll go around the whole group, taking notes. Then, when I build each squad, I try to assign each person to the role he said he was drawn to. Obviously you won't get a perfect match. And obviously every soldier will be required to learn every role on the platoon—we might lose a man in battle, and every soldier must be able to step in. But you've got to start by assigning the right duties to the right soldier. If you get that wrong, your platoon will falter in combat.'

Whereas conventional wisdom views individual specialization as the antithesis of teamwork, great managers see it as the founding principle.”

In a short blog such as this I cannot really do justice to all the interesting information in this book.

Have a read and judge for yourselves.

Tags crash combat, management, office, survival

Phillosoph

Survival Library: Chapter 3, Practical Outdoor Survival

Post author By losophyp
Post date 10 July 2024

In “chapter one” of the Survival Library, I recommended a number of books on the subject. Many of these are available in free on-line editions.

In the subsequent chapters, other books are to be examined.

One of the things I will be looking at is if these additional titles offer supplementary information to that in the books from chapter one, or handle common topics in a more easily digestible form.

For chapter two, I looked at “Bushcraft 101” by Dave Canterbury.

For chapter three, I read “Practical Outdoor Survival” by Len McDougal.

I will admit, chapter three has been a long time coming. There are a number of reasons for this:

For one thing, Practical Outdoor Survival is in many respects similar to Bushcraft 101.

Both are mainly written for North American outdoorsmen. Both are essentially “what to do if lost in the woods” books, although other environments such as deserts are dealt with.

I wanted to make a fair review of Practical Outdoor Survival without recent impressions from Bushcraft 101 clouding my recollections.

A second delay was that I acquired two copies of Practical Outdoor Survival, one from 1992 and another from 2008. I wanted to read both editions to give a more comprehensive review.

I will start by saying I do think Practical Outdoor Survival is worth a read. In fact, it nicely complements Bushcraft 101.

The 2008 edition naturally includes updated information. For example, we now know that iodine is not 100% effective against waterborne pathogens.

Information on some new products that have become available since 1992 is also included.

We also see an evolution in techniques: In the 1992 version, Len McDougal was carrying his “survival gear” in an LBE massing around 15 pounds. In the 2008 version it has been realized that a backpack is a better way to carry camping gear. Details of the contents of a “day and a half” pack are given.

I will note that often the initiation of an emergency situation is finding yourself unable to access your LBE and/or rucksack. Then you must get by with what is in your trouser pockets, on your belt and in your coat or jacket.

Shelter

The shelter section has some interesting ideas.

Using leaf litter to “thatch” your shelter is a good trick.

Another interesting technique is to use a fire to melt a shelter into deep snow rather than trying to dig one in subzero conditions.

In the 1992 edition is the idea of digging a “den” or “bunk niche” into the side of a leeward earth bank (p.62). For some reason this technique was dropped from the 2008.

Clothing

Sometimes your hands need protection from things other than the cold and rain. McDougal makes the wise recommendation of adding a set of leather work gloves to your outdoor kit.

McDougal also points out that faces also need protection from dust, sand, wind and cold.

Your outdoor kit should already include keffiyeh, scarves, neck gaiters and/or headovers.

One of the woolly hats in your kit should be a ski-mask or the type of balaclava that covers the nose and mouth.

Hunting and Fishing

The sections on hunting and fishing are very good. Adding a “frog gig” to your outdoor gear is a good idea, since such multi-tined spear heads can also be used to fish.

A fishing float improvised from a foam ear plug is interesting.

Unless you are issued them for free, using an ear plug is actually a relatively expensive option. Any small piece of scrap foam, bottle cork or polystyrene could probably be used. Trim corners off kip mat? Use that foam!

Ideally you want a float some distance above the hook, with room to add some shot to weigh the bait down.

Cut a thin slit halfway through the foam, place the line of snood/trace/leader through the slit. Wrap the piece of foam in a few centimetres of bright coloured electrical tape.

I differ with the author on a couple of points:

Carrying multi-vitamins seems redundant. Problems from vitamin deficiencies take months or even years to develop, so you are unlikely to carry enough tablets to make a significant difference. You can avoid “rabbit starvation” by eating your greens!

As an aside, consequences of hypervitaminosis can be very rapid. You are unlikely to get this from most over-the-counter vitamin supplements. Liver from polar bears or bearded seals is toxic because of high concentrations of vitamin A. Since 100% positive identification (seal of approval?) may be problematic, best avoid the liver of any seal.

Carrying glucose tablets for hypoglycemia detracts from the potential of other sugar-containing foods and drinks that are an equally effective or better treatment.

I don't see the point in carrying a glass heliograph that weighs several ounces when there are cheaper, lighter and larger plastic mirrors available.

Rimfire .22 for Survival

The section on a survival rimfire rifle in the 2008 version is very good, but I disagree with the comment that “first guns should not be semiautomatic”.

Money is tight for many of us, and the first survival rimfire may be the only one for many years to come!

A semiautomatic means less body motions to alert sharp-eyed game. Semiautos are also better suited to emergency defensive fire with a .22. Less fumble factor under stress!

I also recommend that at least half of your .22 ammo be solids.

In a genuine emergency hunting situation, your .22 rifle may have to be used against targets larger than this chambering is generally recommended for. Penetration and headshots are a priority. Hollowpoint rounds for 22s are designed for very small game and will lack sufficient penetration for larger targets.

Hypervelocity loadings such as CCI Stingers or Remington Yellow Jackets and Vipers also need to be carefully considered. Some authors have noted that the performance improvements these loadings shon on paper do not result in a similar;y sized increase in performance in the field. Tissue damage (aka “loss of meat”) may be greater but shot placement still needs to be effectively the same as a lethal hit for a standard high-velocity .22LR. Are a few extra yards of range worth what may be a 65% increase in price? Many hypervelocity loadings are also only found in hollowpoint configuration.

Compass

A comment worth digesting is that “basic orienteering with map and compass can be learned in a matter of minutes”.

The Phillosoph crash course in compass:

1: To find the bearing/heading of a landmark: Point the reference mark of your compass at the landmark. Turn the bezel until the “N” (0 degrees) has the magnetic tip of the needle pointing towards it. The value on the bezel next to the reference mark is the bearing.

Compasses that do not have rotating bezels and reference marks on the body or baseplate are considerably less useful!

2: To find the direction of a desired heading/bearing: Turn the bezel until the desired bearing is next to the reference mark. Move your body until the point of the needle points to “N” on the bezel. The reference mark will be pointing in the desired heading. Pick out one or more landmarks in that direction and walk toward them.

Bonus Lesson: The difference between a bearing and its back-bearing is always 180 degrees.

Method using Arithmetic: If the value of the bearing is less than 180, add 180 to it to get the back bearing. If the value of the bearing is greater than 180, subtract 180 to get the back bearing.

Non-Maths Method: Take a non-ferrous straight edge such as the edge of a map or page. Place the straight edge next to the value of the bearing on the bezel. Make sure the straight edge also passes over the pivot point of the compass needle or card. Where the straight edge crosses the bezel again is the value of the back bearing.

A variant of this technique uses the corner of a page or map to add or subtract 90 degrees from a heading. This may be useful when “boxing” an obstacle.

How to use a map and compass together is another set of lessons. You may like to read my blog on magnetic declination. A number of field manuals explaining how to use a map with a compass are available on-line for free. These include:

FM 3-25.26

RP0505- Land Navigation (USMC)

How To Find Your Way (GTA 05-021-013)

FM21-25 (1944)

I cannot really say which version of Practical Outdoor Survival is better. 2008 is more up-to-date, but 1992 seems to have a few extra ideas and I prefer how some sections are written.

If possible, get both, and read them alongside Bushcraft 101.

Tags book review, compass, fishing kit, hunting, navigation, survival library, survival manual

Phillosoph

A Handful of Advice on Food

Post author By losophyp
Post date 21 June 2024

Rummaging through a on-line drive the other day and I came across a filename that was just a string of numbers and letters.

This turned out to be a copy of Air Force Survival Manual AFM 64-5. I had not originally paid much attention to this particular work when I downloaded it along with some other military survival manuals.

Unlike most works of its ilk, AFM 64-5 is concise and very readable. It also contains a number of items of information that do not usually appear in many of the survival manuals that will be more familiar to the reader.

One of the many things that interested me was the manual emphasised that a survivor only needed about three ounces of protein a day.

A surprisingly sound and up-to-date piece of nutritional advice in a book that dates back to the 1950s.

It also flies in the face of the current food-fad of boosting the protein content of everything!

For those of you who did not pay attention in school, your daily protein needs are relatively modest.

Even if you are a body-builder, you are not likely to grow more than a few grams of muscle a day.

Having a little extra protein is not likely to harm you. Most of it just gets peed out.

Foods rich in protein have been noted to increase satiation, which is why items such a nuts are sometimes recommended for snacking.

Excessive quantities of protein consumption may have medical effects, however.

Most protein sources also include fats, oils, salt and other things we generally consume too much of already.

I have become more interested in portion control since I was declared diabetic. Like so many of us, I could do with losing a few kilos. This may help me keep the diabetes under control.

Also, on a planet where much of the population is either going hungry or obese, it seems morally abhorrent to deliberately be eating much larger quantities of food than I need.

Portion control has obvious applications for survival, hiking or prepping. It allows you to more accurately judge how much food per day you will need for a journey or a stockpile.

Reading about daily recommendations for protein introduced me to the concept of estimating portions relative to the hands. You will find many websites and illustrations of these. Some differ on the fine details and recommended quantities. My personal take-away may be summarised thus:

Protein

A portion of meat should be about the size of the palm of your hand. This is about the size of a burger, one or two sausages, a small chop or chicken quarter.

Lean meat, and meat cooked by methods that minimise fat content are obviously preferable.

Fish is a little more complicated.

Oily fish has oils and fats, so is treated the same as meat, with a portion about palm-sized.

You may have a larger portion of white fish. A piece should be about the size of your open hand (i.e. palm and fingers, a hand-length). If you like your fish battered or breaded, I recommend baking it in a halogen oven rather than frying it. Quick, easy and delicious!

An old book I have suggests that meat should be used like a condiment, and only consumed in quantity one a week.

I feel that remains sound advice.

Carbohydrates

The carbs that you are most likely to be eating are mainly derived from cereals and grains. This class also includes beans, potatoes, and some vegetables such as sweetcorn. These are all rich in starches, which digest down into sugars. Sugar is also a carbohydrate, but we will deal with that separately later.

The carbs component of your meal should not exceed a cupful.

A clenched fish is equivalent to about a cupful (236-250 ml). The “face” of a fist is about half a cupful.

An alternate/additional approach to estimating a portion is that your carbohydrates should occupy about a quarter of the plate.

Some carbs, such as brown rice or wholemeal bread or pasta are a little richer in fibre or nutrients, but there is more merit in having a variety of types.

Fruit and Vegetables

Or more specifically, plant foods that do not count as being high in starch.

Some fruits are high in sugars, which some readers may need to bear in mind.

Generally, the recommended portion size for the non-starchy veg is two handfuls, or about half the plate. And unlike the above, this is a minimum recommended portion.

If you want to add more low-calorie foods such as vegetables, pile them on.

Have a good variety of vegetables to prevent eating them becoming monotonous.

Fingers and Thumbs

Other meal components such as sugar, salt, oil/salad dressing should be used in moderation.

A fingertip is about the equivalent to a teaspoon (5 ml). A thumb is about two tablespoons (30 ml), so half a thumb one tablespoon/15 ml.

As an aside, I was bemused to see my local pharmacist offering a bag of glucose/dextrose (with a hefty markup!) as “an alternative to sugar”.

Back to school again! Glucose/dextrose is a monosaccharide of glucose. Sucrose is a disaccharide of glucose and fructose. All are digested by the same route and have the same food value. You will see marvellous claims made about honey, but foodwise it is mainly glucose and fructose.

I like a sprinkle of sugar or drizzle of honey on my porridge, but make sure it is only a teaspoon.

Americans tend to write recipes in volumes (cups and spoons), while Brits are more likely to use masses.

If you are a Brit and considering paying more attention to your portion sizing, I recommend investing in a set of measuring cups and spoons.

Very soon you will understand equivalents like that a 40 gram portion of oats is about half a measuring cup, and how much this is compared to your fist.

One of the beauties of the hand measuring system is you always have it “handy”.

Spice is the Variety of Life

It is a good idea to have an assortment of sauces, spices and salad dressings to add extra variety to your meals from day to day.

This recommendation applies to both your home kitchen and your backpack. When you are out in the sticks and may need to eat the same food several days running, a dash of sauce or sprinkle of curry powder or chilli can make a lot of difference.

Snacking

One definition of a snack is eating for entertainment or a non-essential meal. I therefore try to limit my snacking.

Sometimes, however, you do need something quick to tide you over until dinner, or ward off a imminent migraine attack.

The recommended portion for a snack is a handful (about a quarter to third of a cup, or 30-55 mls may be a better measure). This may be a piece of fruit such as an apple or orange, or a handful of nuts, sultanas, cherries or similar.

Protein containing snacks may satiate you better. At other times you may need the carbs and sugars.

A handful of fruit makes a nice dessert to end a meal.

The important point is to stick to the handful portion size. This takes a bit of self-discipline, but you are unlikely to lose weight without this. Self-discipline is a personal property that grows with exercise and practice.

If you are prone to snacking, I suggest you stock up on some dried fruit (apricots, sultanas, etc) and some nuts and seeds.

I found that a plastic sauce container from the takeaway holds about 30-55 ml of nuts, sultanas etc. I keep one with my snacks as both eating bowl and measure.

Packaging and Portions

Actually achieving the above in practice is a little more complex. Often food is marketed in large packets.

For foods such as rice, sugar and porridge that has a long shelf-life, this is great. For other foods, it is problematic.

For example, the recommended serving for a low-fat yogurt (which may be quite high in sugars) is four tablespoons or 60 ml. It is sold in 500 g pots, with the advice to consume within “three days of opening”. Theoretically, for many households, if this advice is followed, most of this yogurt would be thrown-away rather than consumed.

Many snack foods are sold in large packets, and their is a great temptation to finish the packet rather than consume just a handful.

Bread and vegetables are often sold in plastic bags. These bags retain moisture and encourage food to rot or go mouldy. So you throw it away, waste your money and go back to the supermarket for more.

If you find yourself wasting food (or eating too much!) I suggest you invest in a variety of storage containers.

Remove the plastic packaging from perishable foods and store in containers. It is surprising how much better a lettuce keeps in box rather than a bag.

Some foods keep well in the fridge, others do better at room temperature.

Occasionally, inspect the contents of a box and shake out or mop-up any condensation and excess moisture that has accumulated.

This is also the solution to those large bags of snack food. A sealed storage box will keep them from going stale, and let you enjoy the occasional handful over a more reasonable time interval.

Ween yourself onto healthier alternatives such as nuts, seeds and dried or fresh fruit.

Chop Chop

If you have done any Chinese cooking, you will know that food chopped small takes less time to cook and is less likely to be underdone. This applies to the oven, pot and frying pan as well as the wok.

A palm-sized portion of meat or fish goes much further when diced or sliced.

All the ingredients cooked in this fashion may be served mixed together in a single bowl, which I find makes a meal more interesting and varied to consume. Many of my meals involve just a single bowl in one hand, a spork in the other.

If cooking without vessels, divide your food into small pieces before threading it onto sticks for grilling before a fire. Briefly pass the food through the flames or place it on the coals to sear and seal the outside.

Eat the Rainbow

“Eat the Rainbow” is a phrase I only encountered recently, but nicely summarizes something that I have been practicing for decades.

Consider a meal of something like chicken and chips, which is just yellow and brown or orange. Suppose we make it multi-coloured by adding some sliced baby tomatoes, coleslaw, shredded lettuce, a little onion, some mushrooms. Suddenly this meal has got a lot more interesting and more nutritious.

Not only does such a meal look better, it is also more interesting to eat, with a greater variety of tastes and textures.

Tip: Ramekins (or Gü jars!) are useful for one-person oven cooking.

Tags catbs, cooking, food, protein, sugar

Phillosoph

Throwing Arrows, Ouneps and Amentum

Post author By losophyp
Post date 14 April 2024

In my recent post about throwing sticks and stones, I mentioned that creating a good spear was not as easy as some survival manuals make out, and that the throwing stick might be a better investment of your time and energies.

I had wanted to link this comment to an article that I had written back in my early days on the internet. However, the throwing weapons group I had originally written it for had long since disappeared, and to my surprise, I had not placed a copy on my other website.

Since then, I have discovered several of my original articles are preserved on this site.

The spear article, in turn, referenced an article I wrote on throwing arrows, so I have updated that and reposted it here.

Throwing arrows, or at least javelins that resemble arrows, have been used by several cultures, including the Romans and the Plains Indians.

One form of Roman weapon, the plumbata, is described as being about 10 inches long with an iron head, lead or lead‑weighted shaft and tin fins. There are references to legionaries carrying a rack of such missiles on the inside of their shields, at least in some regions or periods of the empire.

The Celts are known to have used a hardwood and iron weapon of about 21 inches length. (These are the weapons termed “Irish darts” in “Slash and Thrust” by John Sanchez. Sanchez claims these were the inspiration for the lead, iron and tin Roman dart. The example of the latter that he illustrates differs from most modern reconstructions.)

By the Middle Ages, such short spears or darts were also popular in other regions, particularly with the Arabs and Spanish (no doubt with the latter due to Moorish influence). “Spanish Darts” were one of the many weapons Henry VIII was proficient with. “Top dartes” were thrown from the rigging of warships.

Hand‑thrown arrows are sometimes referred to as “dutch arrows”.

This article will deal with less conventionally thrown arrows.

In his book “The Art of Attack”, H.S.Cowper refers to a class of weapon that he calls “javelins”, although he concedes the term is also used for conventional spears.

Cowper uses the term javelin to define "“…short pointed missiles flung by the wrist, not propelled straight by the forearm, but twirling in the air end over end before striking the object aimed at”. In other words, something that looks like a spear but is thrown like a knife.

Most of these weapons he describes are between one and three feet in length.

Obviously, this use of the term “javelin” has fallen into disuse.

Cowper suggests such a javelin was the type of weapon Saul threw at David: sitting around the throne room with a full size spear and throwing it a such short range seems to him unlikely.

Cowper describes several examples of javelin:

The Persians used an all metal weapon 2.5 feet long, and sometimes carried two or three in the same sheath. The Arabs used the “mizrak”, which had a 15 inch head, 23 inch shaft and a spiked butt.

The Greek version had a head at each end, but then so do certain much longer Greek spears.

The Knights’ Armoury at Malta had large stocks of sticks with a spear point at each end. These two foot long weapons were intended for throwing from the walls.

Most of the two‑pointed weapons have one head smaller than the other. It is true that this is a feature seen on many double pointed throwing knives, but it is just as likely the lesser point is for close combat or sticking the thing in the ground.

Short throwing sticks with a point at each end date back to prehistoric man.

Two‑pointed examples certainly exist, but the majority of these weapons are single‑pointed, and single‑bladed tumbling weapons seem to have seen very little battlefield use .

Cowper's javelins resemble short spears or throwing arrows, but are thrown end over end like a throwing knife. Pretty obviously, it is hard to tell by looking if a short spear was thrown knife fashion or spear fashion, and in many cases the answer may be either.

I have seen suggestions that the Roman plumbata may have been thrown like a German stick grenade.

The best evidence for such missiles being used that I have found comes from Japan. The “uchi‑ne” resembles a short stocky arrow about 12 inch long with a 4 inch head. naga-yari and uchi-ne

The “nage‑yari” (“thrown/throwing spear”) is a short spear about 17 inch long with a 5 inch head. Often tassels are fitted behind the head, which may aid drag stabilisation.

According to some books, these short missiles are used in the defence of palanquins.

Michael Finn's book “The Art of Shuriken” plainly shows an uchi‑ne being thrown in the same way as a knife, but holding the bottom of the shaft just above the vanes. Finn’s illustration appears to show an uchi‑ne brought up to touch the shoulder and then flipped forward by straightening the arm.

Throwing uchi-ne from Michael Finn's "Art of the Shuriken"

Don. F. Draeger, in “Comprehensive Asian Fighting Arts” lists “uchi‑ne jitsu” as a skill practiced by samurai.

In Shirakami Ikku Ken's book “Shuriken‑Do”, there is also an illustration of uchi‑ne throwing, but this arrow is about two and a half feet long, and obviously thrown as a spear. Interestingly, this illustration also shows a retrieval cord, and the text mentions that some uchi‑ne are fitted with these. Shirakami tells us that for long ranges the uchi‑ne is thrown like a spear, but for shorter ranges it is gripped differently and thrown in a turning style.

Interestingly, Shirakami precedes this description with a few words on more conventional Japanese throwing spears, which he terms “uchine” (spelt without a hyphen).

Most illustrations of uchi‑ne that I've encountered have been of the shorter variety, however.

The uchi‑ne was obviously intended to fly point first, and there is some indication that the nage‑yari was drag stabilized: the shaft appears to be tapered and there seems to be a tassel behind the head.

The question that intrigues me is were nage‑yari thrown like spears or like knives, and did they have enough drag stabilization to fly point first or did they tumble as Cowper assumes?

These weapons pose several questions which are worth investigating.

How long a shaft is needed to get a knife to fly point first? This will of course vary with head length and mass. Could a formulae to predict the length needed be found?
Will adding a shaft to a knife significantly increase its range?
Will adding a shaft to a undersized or too light knife turn it into a more effective missile?

Sadly, I don't have the room nor resources to experiment with these ideas at the moment, but would like to hear from anyone who decides to give them a try.

In addition to wood, a good shaft material may be plastic pipe.

Throwing with Strings

In his book “The Crossbow”, Sir Ralph Payne-Gallwey describes arrow throwing as it was practiced by pitmen of the West Riding region, Yorkshire.

Where the Yorkshire technique differs from most arrow throwing is that it uses a length of string.

This string had an overhand knot tied at one end and this end was attached to the arrow by means of a half hitch. Hitching point was 16 inches back from the head, just behind the centre of gravity. The other end of the string was wrapped around the index finger of the throwing hand.

The arrow was then grasped just behind the head with the thumb and second and third fingers, the index finger keeping the string taunt.

The arrow is thrown like a spear, but the string increases the efficiency/duration of energy transfer. (I'll leave it to a physics teacher to explain this better!)

As the arrow leaves the thrower, the half hitch unties itself and so the string stays with the thrower.

The arrows used were 31 inches long, with an ogival tip and 5/16 of an inch wide at the head end. The arrow tapered to a point 3/16 of an inch wide at the back end.

Centre of balance was 13 inches from the head.

The entire arrow would have weighed only a little more than half an ounce. Usual material was hazelwood with a pith core. This would be dried for two years before being used to make an arrow.

A good arrow was highly prized by its owner.

The purpose of this arrow throwing was for amusement and competition.

An typical throw ranged from about 240 to 250 yards, although the better throwers may manage 280 to 300 yards.

The longest recorded throw was 372 yards.

As an experiment, Payne-Gallwey asked a thrower to use this technique with a flight arrow from a bow. A range of 180 to 200 yards was achievable. Given Payne-Gallwey's other interests, I suspect that the arrow used was a Turkish arrow which would have weighed 7 dr, or 7/8th of an ounce.

The arrows used in Yorkshire were not used for hunting or war, but the technique of throwing a missile further with a length of cord was used in a more belligerent manner by other cultures.

Natives of the New Hebrides, New Caledonia and New Guinea used a device called the “ounep” by Cowper.

The only difference between the ounep and the Yorkshireman's string is that the ounep was used on full‑sized spears and the hitch was tied at the centre of gravity rather than the butt.

The finger end of the cord might have a loop tied rather than just being wrapped around the finger.

The ounep allowed a spear to be thrown further, and theoretically a thrower would not be in danger from a return cast unless the enemy had a ounep of his own.

The principle of the ounep was known to the Greeks and Romans, although they used a loop of cord tied permanently to the shaft. This was known as the “amentum” (thong or strap) to the Romans and the “ankulé” to the Greeks. This device was used by the javelin armed pelasts of the Greek world.

A comparison of hand‑throwing, ounep, amentum and atlatl spear‑throwing would be interesting.

Tags hunting, japan, spear, spears, throwing