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Hanbo for Training

Due to legal or personal restrictions, many people do not carry weapons with them as a matter of course.
Those that do often lack sufficient tactical understanding in their use.
Many victims have been killed or injured because they were attempting to draw or ready a weapon rather than deal with the incoming attack first. Many police officers have been killed by dying attackers they had successfully shot and fatally wounded. The attacker still lived long enough to take the cop with them.
This is why a familiarity of empty‑hand skills, particularly parrying and evasion, is needed.

Improvised Weapons

Knowing empty‑hand techniques does not mean you should not arm yourself if you have time and opportunity.
Many such weapons will be objects from your immediate environment. Things that you can throw, parry or hit with. Objects that can be placed between the enemy’s weapon and your own tender flesh.
The best training weapons are those that closely match what is likely to be available as an improvised weapon when an attack occurs.
Mastering a broadsword, sai, nunchakus or quarterstaff has only limited utility, since most objects available as improvised weapons will be blunter and smaller.

Hanbo

One of the first training weapons you should acquire is a hanbo.
In his book “Stick Fighting”, Masaaki Hatsumi tells us a jo is 4 feet 23/16 inches and 7/8 inches in diameter, and that a hanbo is 2 feet 113/4 inches or “walking stick” length.
Based on this, I ordered a 7/8 inch diameter oak dowel, one metre long.
It can be considered as either a short jo or long hanbo. I am taller than most feudal Japanese, so a metre is about the right “walking stick” length for me.
Later, it occurred to me than since a hanbo is “half a roshakubo” it perhaps should have been the same diameter as a bo, which Hatsumi gives as 11/16th inches.
Hanbos available on-line are offered in 24 mm and 27 mm diameters and jos as 15/16.
I am quite happy with 7/8 inch diameter as a training tool, however, since the light weight makes it a little swifter and more agile.

Making a Hanbo

The oak dowel needed very little work.
Using a penknife reamer I made a small depression in the centre of each end. This was mainly to help get the ends symmetrical. It gives the ends a “hollow‑point” look which I quite like.
I rounded the ends of the dowel. I started this with a sander bit on a Dremel, but most of the work was done manually with sandpaper.
Once this was done, the entire length was manually sanded. Run the shaft through your hands a few times, further sanding any spots that need it.
Lastly, boiled linseed oil was applied with a piece of kitchen towel. After about an hour, I applied some more oil. The oil will take 24 to 48 hours to fully dry and cure.

Training

Training with a hanbo can be educational.
As I have previously mentioned, many self‑defence techniques that are taught do not work if the enemy has a knife or other weapon.
The tip of a hanbo is faster than many empty‑hand attacks, so it is a good tool to test your defensive moves against.
Try countering a hanbo strike with an actually block. Blocks match strength against strength. The hanbo is harder than flesh and has no pain receptors.
Use the cross‑block to counter a thrust from the hanbo. Even if it is successful, the hanbo user may easily move the tip up and strike down on the bones of the blocking arms.
Parrying against hanbo attacks may be more practical.
You should, however, have some practices where the hanbo plays a sword. This means the defender may not touch the hanbo “blade” or they are “cut”. This is very good training for honing your evasion skills such as inquartata, V-stepping, ginga, body‑rolling and bow and slip.
Parrying is always preferable to blocking. Evading an attack is always preferable to parrying.
Practising against a “sword” helps improve one’s counter-offensive footwork. You will need to get past the weapon without the blade touching and “injuring” you. Following the principle of “Meet the Meat”, you need to reach a body part of the “swordsman” that you can attack.
Try your baton or nightstick moves with a hanbo. The added length provides more inertia, testing your control and improving your strength and dexterity. Performing abanicos with the hanbo will build wrist strength.
The hanbo may be used to practise staff-fighting moves too. Practising indoors with a full-size staff can be hazardous to the fixtures and fittings. A hanbo is less so, but one should still be mindful of one’s surroundings. Awareness in itself is a defensive skill.
One interesting thing I have found is that manipulating the hanbo one‑handed seems to move the end faster and more forcefully than trying to wield it two‑handed like a katana. Is this because when using one hand I tend to use Filipino wrist roll and circling techniques that need a relaxed hand?
Once the oil has cured, I will have to experiment further.

Recommended Reading

I have already mentioned “Stick Fighting” by Masaaki Hatsumi. The majority of the book is lock and throwing techniques. The reader should pay attention to the statement on p.31: “Do not be in too much of a hurry to apply a throwing or arm-entanglement action but defend yourself with one of the Basic Movements until a suitable opportunity presents itself”
This is a good approach to defence in general. Neutralise the guard or offensive, hit the core, and takedown when possible.
The “Basic Movements” in Hatsumi’s book are strikes at the hand or jabs at targets on the centreline: chin [throat], ribs and solar plexus.
Since evasive footwork will should take you to the side of an attacker, centreline targets may not be readily accessible. Familiarise yourself with other target areas more accessible from the side.
“The Filipino Martial Arts as taught by Dan Inosanto” is another recommended book, useful for learning the basic stick manipulations.
“Attack, Avoid, Survive” and “Crash Combat” both include detailed information on stick techniques.
Lessons in Sabre, Singlestick, Sabre & Bayonet and Sword Feats” by J. M. Waite is the best book on sword use that I have encountered. “Cold Steel” by Alfred Hutton is also worth reading, although I have reservations about some of the parrying techniques he shows.
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Knives You Need: Part Three, Butcher Knife

In other posts I have discussed whether one needs a fighting knife.
Most of my readers probably own a few multi-purpose knives that will serve if the need for defence arose.
I have reached for a kukri on at least one occasion, and my machete would be a good option too.
If I needed something more compact, my Moras or Gerber Strongarm would serve well.
The following was taken from “The Soldier’s Handbook” by (Lt. Col) Anthony B. Herbert.
Herbert's ideas on fighting knives
I apologise for the poor quality. The paper is supposed to be copier-proof. This was the best I could do.
A. Blade should hold keen edge.
B. Heavy enough for hacking, as well as sharp pointed enough for stabbing.
C. Smooth straight handle for throwing.
D. Hand guard for protection.
E. Well balanced.
F. Durable.
G. Structure is simplistic.
H. Inexpensive
A knife which meets all of the above is the standard heavy bladed butcher knife illustrated above which requires the sole modification of adding a hand guard and which sells for under six dollars.
The gentleman had a point [pun intended].
A good butcher knife is a rather useful investment. It has been many decades since they cost six dollars, but they are still very reasonable in price.
As you can see below, mine is made by Victorinox.
I have not felt the need to add a hand guard. The handle design offers some protection to the fingers, and the lack of quillons makes it a little more compact and snag-free.
The only modification is that I used my set of gimlets to add a channel for a retaining cord. Why buy a nice knife and not take precautions against losing it?
Butcher knives like this are designed to be used by professional butchers all day long. Thus the grip is very comfortable and designed to be non‑slip.
Butcher knife and M3 Combat Knife
My “smaller” butcher knife, with an M3 combat knife for comparison.
This is a 20 centimetre model. I have not been able to find butcher knives shorter than this. Despite its size, the knife itself only masses six ounces (170 g).
The blade is about two millimetres thick, much thinner than your typical hunting, survival or military design.
Because it is so thin, the blade moves fast, is agile and cuts very well, which are not bad traits for a fighting knife. Rather than hacking, as Herbert suggests, the length, thinness and curved edge make this more of a slasher. Being thin but broad, the point is very effective too.
Given it is made by Victorinox, I am confident that the blade is unlikely to bend or break in general use. Being stainless steel, rusting is not a concern either.
The blade has taken a very sharp edge.
It is an intimidating beast that looks bigger than it is. That is quite an endorsement from someone with a house full of kukris.
If the appearance makes an aggressor have second thoughts, that may be a good thing. Sometimes the best weapons are those that do not have to be used.
If you do not like the polished finish, follow the link on darkening steel in the second part of this series.
If you hunt large game, a butcher knife is worth considering adding to your kit. It will dress game much more efficiently than most hunting knives. Is is literally what it was designed for.
Herbert sheath using tape
I took another leaf from Herbert’s book and made a sheath out of tape as he describes.
For the inner parts, wrap the tape from bottom to top. This makes it easier to insert the blade and helps keep the blade in place once sheathed.
Post‑Halloween trivia: None of the famous movie slashers ever used a butcher knife. Most seem to prefer chef’s knives.
Movie Slashers prefer kitchen knives
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Classifying Weapons

I have just read a book called “Traditional Ninja Weapons” by Charles Daniel. Yes, there are a few books out there with “ninja” in the title that are worth reading.
Today, I want to look at just one of the ideas in this book.
The author suggests that most weapons should be divided into three general classes as either “battlefield”, “duelling” or “surprise self‑defence”.

Battlefield Weapons

Battlefield weapons are intended for uses when true one‑to‑ combat is rare. Often these weapons are offensive orientated since since armour, shields and/or terrain are used for protection.
Battlefield weapons are often distinguished by their reach or range. Battlefield weapons are often specialised, optimised for use against certain targets and relying on differently armed comrades to handle other threats.

Duelling Weapons

Duelling weapons are usually intended for one‑to‑one confrontations and usually, although not always, fight like against like. The duel is distinguished by the feature that the combat will usually be subject to some rules and restrictions.
Some duelling weapons are variants of battlefield weapons. Weapons similar to duelling weapons may appear on the battlefield, but they are often backup or secondary weapons.

Surprise/Secret

Daniel defines “surprise self‑defence” weapons as including those that the opponent does not learn about until too late.
I prefer to call this class “surprise/self‑defence” since some surprise weapons are not defensive and some self‑defence weapons are not used covertly.
Dagger by Tod Cutler
Weapons of this class tend to be used as short ranges, be convenient to carry and may be concealable.
So what? you might ask.
This is an interesting concept, since it encourages us to look at weapons and their use within the context of the environment they were intended for.
This explains George Silver's comments:
The short staff or half pike, forest bill, partisan, or glaive, or such like weapons of perfect length, have the advantage against the battle axe, the halberd, the black bill, the two handed sword, the sword and target, and are too hard for two swords and daggers, or two rapier and poniards with gauntlets, and for the long staff and morris pike.
The long staff, morris pike, or javelin, or such like weapons above the perfect length, have advantage against all manner of weapons, the short staff, the Welch hook, partisan, or glaive, or such like weapons of vantage excepted, yet are too weak for two swords and daggers or two sword and bucklers, or two rapiers and poniards with gauntlets, because they are too long to thrust, strike, and turn speedily. And by reason of the large distance, one of the sword and dagger-men will get behind him.
The Welch hook or forest bill, has advantage against all manner of weapons whatsoever.
Yet understand, that in battles, and where variety of weapons are, among multitudes of men and horses, the sword and target, the two handed sword, battle axe, the black bill, and halberd, are better weapons, and more dangerous in their offense and forces, than is the sword and buckler, short staff, long staff, or forest bill. The sword and target leads upon shot, and in troops defends thrusts and blows given by battle axe, halberds, black bill, or two handed swords, far better than can the sword and buckler.
The morris pike defends the battle from both horse and man, much better than can the short staff, long staff, or forest bill. Again the battle axe, the halberd, the black bill, the two handed sword, and sword & target, among armed men and troops, by reason of their weights, shortness, and great force, do much more offend the enemy, & are then much better weapons, than is the short staff, the long staff, or the forest bill.
Weapons that perform well in private fights and those needed on a battlefield, differ in their desirable properties.
For example, it is now obvious why martial arts that have become sports often perform poorly when the sportsman has to defend themselves. There are no proscribed tactics or targets, no notification that attacks may begin.
Similarly, some techniques originally intended for the battlefield do not work in other contexts.
Skill in grappling may be decisive in a one‑to‑one encounter, but in other situations rolling on the ground will just give other enemies an easy kill.
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Dreaming of Staff Fighting

The other night I had a dream about staff fighting. This was no real surprise.
I had been reading some books on wing chun, and two had included sections on the “six and a half pole” form.
I had also recently purchased Jesse Tsao’s “Tai Chi Hiking Staff”.
I may even have reread this article recently.
So while I slept, my brain continued to work on the topic of fighting staffs. When I woke, I had formed two conclusions:
• If you have a long weapon, exploit its reach.
• Avoid great compasses.
I was very happy with these conclusions, but what do they mean?

Length

Most people assume a quarterstaff is about six feet long.
The familiar Japanese bo is actually the rokushakubo, six shaku long. This is about 1.82 m or 71.6 inches, which would be greater than the height of the average pre-late twentieth century Japanese or Okinawan.
Wikipedia quotes this page claiming an English quarterstaff was the user’s height plus the length of a hand.
Northern Chinese martial arts say a staff should reach the base of the wrist when the user’s arm was extended over their head. I am 1.8 metres tall and by this criteria my staff would be two metres long, so about 110% of my height.
Wing chun uses a pole typically of between seven and eight feet.
George Silver maintained a staff of “perfect length” was the user’s height with their arm raised, plus a space equal to the distance between the hands (about a shoulder width).
In Master of Defence by Paul Wagner, travellers carrying staffs of 14 feet or longer are mentioned (p.51).
Boy Scout quarterstaff sparring
For most of us, the staff we are most likely to use to defend ourselves is a hiking staff.
If you frequently have to pole vault over streams, pole a boat, or face hostile horsemen, a long staff may be useful. Some of these long staffs may have doubled as carrying poles in daily use.
For general use, a more practical hiking staff will be of a length between elbow height and shoulder height. This will not get caught on low branches, will not be a problem passing through doorways and is more convenient if you travel inside a vehicle.
Many fighting styles use staffs shorter than the user.
In Japan, we have the jo, which is either just under armpit height or traditionally 4 shaku, 2 sun, 1 bu, which is 127.56 cm or 50 inches. Japan also has the goshakubo, a 5 shaku staff of 1.52 m or 59.7 inches.
Many cultures in fact use a staff shorter than the user and averaging around five foot/1.5 metre length.
The Portuguese and Galician Jogo do Pau uses a stick of chin height.
Silambam (India) uses a staff up to the nose or forehead.
Southern Chinese martial arts use a “equal eyebrows rod” that reaches as high as the user’ s eyebrows.
Tsao’s book mentions four foot sticks used by shepherds to defend against wolves, and similar staffs carried by beggars for defence against stray dogs.
A jo or short staff is not a bad addition to your home defence weapons.

Halfstaff

If, like me, you were raised watching Errol Flynn’s Robin Hood, “quarterstaff” will conjure up an image of a staff gripped in the middle, striking with either end.
This style of using a polearm is actually termed “halfstaff”.
Using a very long staff, halfstaff style would probably be quite awkward since the ground would limit the choice of strikes and parries that could be made.
Halfstaff position is useful as a sort of “port arms” position. A staff held at halfstaff and carried obliquely across the torso is less likely to get tangled up when passing through a doorway. Either end and the section between the hands can be used to strike or defend if surprised. By moving either hand to either end of the staff, a low guard or high guard (qv) fighting position may be quickly adopted.
Experiment with placing both hands together in the middle of the shaft and swinging either end.
Halfstaff has its uses, but it does not exploit one of the staff’s strengths, which is its length and reach. In serious combat, a staff should be held at one end.

Grips

There are several variations of gripping style that may be used with a staff.
The lead hand may be palm‑up/thumb towards the tip, or palm‑down, thumb towards the other hand.
Typically, the hands will be about shoulder‑width apart. Some martial arts have the forward hand an arms’ length from the butt.
A longer distance between hands gives more leverage to manipulate the weapon. On shorter weapons, the hands may be closer together to give more reach, allowing the staff to be wielded like a katana or bokken.
The rear hand may grasp the butt of the staff for maximum leverage. Alternately, a section of staff is left projecting from the bottom of the rear hand. This provides some protection to the rear arm. This projecting section also helps stabilise the weapon when it is used single‑handed. The bottom section is stabilised by the downward pressure of the hand and the inside of the wrist and forearm.
Experiment and find what works best for you personally with the weapons that you have.

Reach and Guards

How to use a staff to exploit its reach?
According to George Silver, a staff has four wards, two point up, two point down. Two wards are point forward, two point back. In Masters of Defence, these wards for quarterstaff are designated as low ward, high ward, open ward and tail ward.
Low guard for staff-fighting
Joseph Swetnam recommended a low guard/ward for most uses of the staff. It is called low guard since the rearmost hand is held lowest, either at waist level or down on the thigh. The forward hand is higher, so the staff slopes upward.
Different styles and instructors differ as to how much slope the staff should have. Some state a specific angle, others have the staff approaching vertical.
To my mind, it seems logical to have the tip of the staff at around head‑level. Any higher and you are just defending empty air, and the staff will have a greater distance to travel to attack or parry. Low ceilings would also be a problem.
Angle of the staff will depend on weapon length and how low the rear hand is held.
Some traditions say point the staff at the enemy’s eye so it is harder to judge the weapon’s reach. I think this is worth trying.
When in low guard the staff is sloped in three planes. If low guard is observed from the front or above, the staff is also angled. If you are in a left‑forward stance the tip of the staff should point at your foe’s right eye with the butt of the staff in your right hand and held low.
The tip of the staff should not be much further left than the foe’s right shoulder.
Stay in guard, leaving it only to attack, defend, or change guards. Return into guard as soon as possible. This is sound advice for any fighting method.
High and Low Guards for staff-fighting
High guard is a form of hanging guard. It offers a good defence of the head. Swetnam recommends the high guard for fighting in poor light, when it might be difficult to see an incoming attack.
Note that in the illustration (above) the rear hand is held forward of the face, and just above the head. The section between the hands must be held high enough that it does not cross the face and that you have a clear view of the foe under the staff.
The high guard is also sloped in all three planes, the tip probably pointing at the foe’s leg area.
High guard is likely to be more fatiguing, so use low guard whenever practical.
Low and high guard fulfil the criteria of productively utilising the staff’s reach and length. The staff is in a good position to quickly attack and defend, and dominates the space between user and foe.

Great Compasses

Open ward has the point of the staff held high and sloped back away from the enemy. The lower section of the staff crosses the torso. The hand nearest the enemy is low, the other high.
The main offensive options from open guard are a downward or inward oblique strike. While these strikes will be very powerful, the tip of the staff has to travel a distance of several metres. This is relatively slow and gives the enemy time to dodge, parry or land an attack of their own. For similar reasons, the defensive capability of open guard is also poor. It takes too long to bring the staff into the forward area to parry.
Tail ward places the tip of the staff behind the user, either level or point low. The staff may strike downwards, obliquely or on an inward horizontal.
For some weapons, the tail guard is a useful position. With the quarterstaff, it has the same drawbacks as the open ward. The staff has too great a distance to travel to strike or parry.
Terrain features such as low overhead branches or nearby obstacles may hinder the use of open or tail ward.
These long circular strikes are what our predecessors called “great compasses”. My dream recommended avoiding using them.
The great compass blows should only be used against targets that cannot defend themselves or cannot see it coming.

How to Attack

If we should not use grand compasses, how do we attack effectively with a staff?
Watch a quarterstaff being used in a movie, and a technique you will seldom see is the use of the point to thrust.
Swetnam advocated the thrust as the primary offensive technique with a staff. In contrast to Silver, Swetnam was an advocate of the rapier, and this may be reflected in the emphasis of thrusts. Thrusts are techniques that you should master and make good use of, however.
While not sharpened in the manner of spears, many fighting staffs had their end shaped into a point or ogive to concentrate the force of impact. Some fighting staffs are tapered towards one end. Some staff ends were shod with metal.
Even without these features, a thrust from a staff can be very effective. Unlike a spear or sword, a staff is unlikely to get stuck if used on the rib area.
The basic thrust does not change the relative position of the hands, and resembles a typical bayonet thrust. Stepping forward or changing posture may increase reach.
In Chinese spear fighting, the bow/archer/arrow stance/gung bu is often used. This is similar to the zenkutsu‑dachi stance of karate. Horse stance/ma bu/kiba‑dachi is also seen used. Do not use long lunging stances unless you are adept at recovering from them and quickly re-assuming low or high guard.
Swetnam was an advocate of a technique Master of Defence terms the “thrust‑single”. This is a variant of the “throw‑point” bayonet tactics I have described in my other articles and books.
To make a thrust‑single, the lead hand is removed from the staff and the rear hand thrusts the weapon forwards, often accompanied by a passing‑step forwards.
Since you may be in either a right‑ or left‑forward guard, this technique may be performed with either hand.
Two-handed throw point with Chinese spear
A variation of the thrust‑single is to slide the shaft through the lead hand like a pool cue. Both hands finish together near the butt of the weapon. This posture is often seen in Chinese spear forms.
These thrusts may be used as a counter to an attack targeting the lead hand.
Once the thrust hits or is parried, the guard position must be resumed or another attack made.
All thrusts should be made with a twisting action, which increases effect on the target and helps the staff follow the intended path.
The thrust may be used as a component of a change of facing. For example, you want to move from left forward guard to right forward. You make a thrust‑single with your right rear hand and step your rear right foot forward to generate power and reach. Bring your left hand up to the weapon’s butt and immediately slide or place your right hand further up the shaft, re-assuming low guard. A similar switch may be made using the two‑handed throw‑point technique.
For another way to smoothly change facing, place or slide your rear hand next to your lead hand and place or slide the lead hand back to the butt. Optionally, a thrust may be added to this sequence after the rear hand moves forward.
While a thrust can be fast and potent, Silver noted that “the force of a child may put it by”. (Master of Defence p.61, Paradoxes of Defence 13).
If a thrust misses, striking with the side of the weapon rather than restriking with the point may be quicker.
Since the staff is not an edged weapon, any surface may be used to strike without the need to align edge and target.
Master of Defence (p.61) explains how the quarterstaff could hit hard without the need of great compassing blows.
Due to its low mass, and being controlled by two hands spaced apart for leverage, a staff is a very nimble weapon.
By moving the tip end of the staff in small vertical circles, or parts thereof, the staff gains momentum and energy while only being moved a short distance. For example, the tip is dropped, moves in a tight clockwise circle and descends to strike the clavicle. If a forward or rearward component is added to these circles they become helices.
These “rapid circular motions”, “flourishes” or “quarter blows”, as they were termed, may possibly be an explanation for the term “quarterstaff”.(Master of Defence, p.61)
We see these small circular moves from other sources. The final “half‑point” of the six and a half point pole form is taught by some wing chun instructors as moving the tip in a half circle.
To practice such small circular actions, use your staff tip to draw a cloverleaf shape in the air. The illustration taken Attack, Avoid, Survive shows this shape applied to unarmed or short weapon parrying. This exercise will train you to use the four small circles and the simpler sideways “beats” and semicircular parries.
Many of these motions serve as either strikes or parries. They may be used to make disengagements and strike‑overs.
The wing chun pole form includes postures that resemble the low guard. In one part, the tip is whipped downwards to the ground then whipped back to its original position. Such a movement may be used defensively, or as an upward or downward strike. That upward action may be aimed between a foe’s legs.

Defence

Many of the offensive moves may also be used defensively. This parallels recent discussion on this blog of unarmed techniques that are both defensive and counter‑offensive.
Swetnam has an interesting defensive move whereby the rear hand is raised high and the point is allowed to rest on the ground (“pitch”), two to three feet wide of the side struck at. The lead hand is removed from the shaft to prevent it being targeted. Train to rapidly resume your guard or attack after using this tactic.
If an enemy tries to close distance, you may switch to halfstaff mode, or slide your rear hand upwards and strike by thrusting or swinging the butt end.
For more information on this style of staff fighting, this article should be read. Other aspects, such a footwork, disengagements, weapon grab counters and strike‑overs are covered in my books, so were not included here.
The staff fighting technique described in this blog post is relatively easy to learn. The techniques are applicable to staffs and other weapons of various lengths, and the skills acquired may be also applied to bayonet‑fighting or the use of spears, should you need either.
The thrust‑single is good exercise for wrist strength, flexibility and dexterity. For strength training, metal pipes may be used instead of wooden staffs.
Do not underestimate how much room you will need for training or exercising with a staff, especially if indoors.
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Palms In! Parrying Against Knives

I will tell you something that most martial arts teachers and self‑defence instructors do not like to admit. Some do not even admit it to themselves.
Many of the techniques you may have learnt will not work if your attacker has a knife.
Switching to a specialised set of anti‑knife techniques is not a solution. In many knife attacks, the defender fails to see the knife before the attack. Poor lighting, crowded conditions or competent tactics by the knife-man are just some of the factors that can hide a blade.
ATACK: Assume That Attacker Conceals Knives. Treat any attack as a potential knife attack. Defend accordingly.
Whenever you learn a technique, you should be asking yourself several questions:
• Will this technique be practical if the attacker has a knife or other weapon?
•Is the attack realistic? Would it reach the defender and is the attacker maintaining a guard?
• How would I counter this technique if I was the attacker?
• Would this technique work against someone not fighting in my style or a particular style?
Today’s blog expands on an observation I made in a previous post.
I noted how frequent it was that many tai chi defensive movements presented the outer surfaces of the forearms towards an enemy.
The inner side of the forearm has a deeper covering of flesh. Within these muscles are the radial and ulnar arteries and the radial, medial and ulnar nerves.
Nerves and Arteries of the forearm and upper arm
A strike to the inner forearm may numb the nerves, reducing the limb’s ability to defend or attack. A cut to the inner forearm may sever one or more arteries, resulting in a potentially fatal bleed‑out.
If you cannot avoid taking a blow or cut, taking it on the outer rather than the inner side of the forearm is preferable.
Cloth, such as your sleeves will help reduce any damage from a knife strike. If you are a law enforcement officer or in a similar role where knife attack is probable, make a habit of wearing gloves or fingerless gloves.
Here I will remind the reader that parrying actions are secondary defence techniques to evasion and avoidance. Techniques such a ginga and dodging will keep away from knives. Parries are used when evasion fails, or as a component of a counter‑attack action to control the weapon hand.
An effective parry does not just redirect an attack, but includes motions that remove potential targets from the path of the attack.

Palm-In Parrying

Many tai chi defensive movements/“postures” place the lead hand with the back of the hand toward the enemy or uppermost. This orientation protects the inner forearm area from the most likely direct attacks.
One of the most obvious example of this is peng/p’eng/wardoff. The lead arm is held curved and roughly horizontal before the body, back of the palm towards the threat. The rear arm is usually held below or behind the lead arm, often orientated so the inner forearm is protected.
In “How To Use Tai Chi As A Fighting Art”, Erle reminds us that in combat the “hold the ball” hand positioning is often made with the lower hand palm down.
“In this posture the harder area of the forearm is used to block [parry] the attack and so not damage the soft area of the arm.”
In other movements, such as “Grasp sparrow’s tail” we see the lead arm in a more vertical position, but once again the back of the palm and outer forearm are towards the enemy.
Parries with the outer forearm may utilize the ulnar edge of the forearm, in much the same way that parries with the palm may utilize the edges of the hand. Avoid parrying bone against bone, however.
Parries from such movements are often taken with the outer forearm making initial contract. Combined with waist movement, the arm may rotate to redirect the attack. This action may result in the hand being placed palm down on the limb. This contact may be used to grab, hook, redirect, push, control or to sense the foe’s next actions.
For an example, see the illustration of the “Outside Crane” in “Attack, Avoid, Survive”. Contact is made with the back of the hand and the hand rolls to hook the fingers over the arm.
Such contacts should be transitory. Leave a hand in contact too long and the foe may try cutting it.
For those familiar with wing chun, it will be appreciated that tan/taan sau/sao is an outer forearm towards the enemy configuration.

Palm-First Parries

Of the tai chi movements that do not present the back of the hand, many instead make initial contact with the palm or fingertips. Many of these use an approach angle that still protects the inner side of the forearm.
Under parries with the palm, I choose to include those movements that make initial contact with either edge of the palm. This is the “knife‑hand” between the base of the little finger and wrist, and the “reverse knife hand” surface between the base of the thumb and wrist. A contact made with the edge of the hand may roll into a contact with the palm. A contact with the palm may transfer to the a palm edge.
It is also possible to employ the edges of the palm when making palm-inward actions.
Remember that palm‑first actions may be parries or strikes. In fact, the only difference between a strike and a parry is often one of context and opportunity.
One of the aspects of simultaneous attack and defence is that one body-part may attack as another defends. Another aspect is that a defence may also attack and an attack also defend.
The back of the palm is also a striking weapon. For example, from peng, either hand may deliver a potent backhand strike under the jawline to the Stomach‑9 point on the side of the throat.
Less potentially lethal, the back of the hand may simultaneously hit the points above the eye and under the cheekbone.

Quadrants of Parrying

In previous writings, I have talked about the “quadrants of defence”. Most attacks may be parried by either a inward or outward parry, and will require either a high or low level parrying action. Your parrying response thus constitutes either a rhomboid or a rectangle, depending on the fighting method you train in.
The “back‑of‑the‑hand”  or “palm‑in” parries are very well suited to outward parries.
From “hold the ball” or “grasp the sparrow’s tail” the arm is easily dropped to swing outwards for a low parry or flicked up and outward against a higher attack. Because tai chi teaches you to hold your arms relaxed, such actions can be very fast and strong.
The outside of the forearm in the primary contact area, although the back of the hand may slap an attack off line. More of slapping‑style parries a little later.
Inward back‑of‑the‑hand parries may need a bit more practice.
The high inward parry may be made as a chopping action, contact area most likely being the ulnar edge of the forearm or the knife‑edge of the hand. Allow your arm to relax and power the motion by a waist twist and footwork.
The low inward back‑of‑the‑hand parry I find a little more awkward. You need a sort of combined swinging/thrusting action, with a waist twist to power it and take potential targets out of the way. This resembles the low parry of karate, but is thrust inward. A hikate action can help with the waist action.
Palm‑first parries, including knife‑hand and reverse knife‑hand actions, may either parry inward or outward. Their drawback is that using the hand rather than the forearm, the defender must be more accurate and there is a greater probability of failure.
In addition, certain palm parries will expose the inner forearm to attack. Favour palm parries that keep the outside or the forearm uppermost and/or towards the enemy.
When practical, use double‑handed parries rather than single‑arm inward parries. The outward parrying arm of the pair will probably be in a back of the palm outward configuration, with the outside of forearm available to parry.
Some parrying actions that used crossed arms were described in the last post. Practice these so the outer sides of the forearms are always outward/uppermost relative to the enemy/threat.
Double‑handed parries need not be made with the arms touching each other. See the illustration of an “inside crane” in my book. The rear arm makes an outward parry with the outside of the forearm and the palm inward, and the lead hand makes a knife‑hand parry with the outer forearm upwards.
Ready stances such as boxing ready, fighting ready and p;eng hinge should be practised with the back of the hands and forearms towards the enemy.
Erle Montaigue in casual peng hinge ready stance
Erle is shown in a variant of p'eng hinge (above). This posture looks non-aggressive, but one arm is positioned ready to defend the upper body, the other the lower and they both may act together.
Another useful pre‑combat stance is to stand with one hand over the other, both around belt‑buckle level.
A defence against a high hooking strike is to bring your hand up to the side of your head, as though brushing back your hair (if you still have some). Ideally this action sweeps across the face on the way. This defence also utilizes the outer forearm area of the bent arm.
Commonly depicted as a blocking action, this can be made into a parry/evasion by turning toward the attack and dropping downward and moving backward. This spiralling action may be used to drive the other hand out in a counter‑strike.
This action may offer some protection against a high knife attack, reducing the severity of an injury at least.
Combine this arm motion with ginga and you have esquiva.
Note that in ginga the bent arm presents the outside of the forearm towards the foe.

Whip/Slap Parries

In “Knives, Knife Fighting & Related Hassles”, Marc Macyoung recommends “whip/slap” parries. These “…originate from the wrist, using the elbow as a pivot point. One way of looking at them is, under control, you throw your wrist at an incoming strike. When done properly, the wrist will arrive at the destination the moment your arm’s motion is arrested. This allows for all of the energy to be transferred into whatever is hit.”
Striking or parrying with a relaxed or semi‑relaxed arm has obvious parallels with the tai chi techniques and principles described above.
When applied with the palm of the hand, the whip/slap parries clearly have a similarity to the tai chi palm‑first defensive moves already described. Obvious applications are as inward or downward parries.
As a parrying technique primarily using the hands, accuracy is needed as well as speed and relaxation.
Horse foot hand used in tai chi single whip
Crane/Horse Foot Hand of Whip ParryThe hand configuration shown in Macyoung’s book for the upwards whip parry (left) has a clear resemblance to the crane/turtle head/horse foot hand used in tai chi single whip (above). As the relaxed hand is flicked upward or outward, the wrist naturally bends and the fingers trail. Primary impact surface is the back of the hand or the wrist area.
I have seen a clip of Erle Montaigue conducting a knife defence workshop. A student stabs at Erle, so Erle twist to face right and brings an arm up in an explosive “Paint the fence, Daniel‑san”  move, hitting the underside of the knife arm. Much to everyone’s surprise, this impact against the arm knocks the knife out of the student’s hand and high up into the air.
This nicely illustrates that a whip/slap type technique may be used even if the contract area is the outer forearm rather than the wrist or hand. This action is therefore applicable to movements where the back of the hand is towards an enemy.
A parry with the dorsum of a horse foot palm is not just for rising parries. The back of the horse foot hand may be directed as an outward horizontal or oblique parry or even as a downward parry with the fingers raised upwards.
When the fingers of a horse foot hand are horizontal this resembles the fook sau of wing chun, so may be used for indexing a foe.
Elsewhere, I have discussed how the horse foot hand form may be used as a hammer‑fist, reverse hammer‑fist or a downward punch.
As a defensive technique, horse foot hand may both parry and hook over attacking limbs.
The sides of the horse foot hand, or even the knuckles, may also be used to parry/strike at an attack.
Note that these defensive moves have mainly used the palm, knife-hand and hammer-fist, the primary weapons taught in Crash Combat. To these has been added the use of the back of the hand and the forearm.
This is a further illustration of how defensive moves may be used offensively.
Categories
Barata

Cross Hands

First of all, I will make it clear that this blog is not about the infamous scissor block aka X-block.
The danger of this technique I have addressed in both my self‑defence books and on this blog a few times already.
The infamous, dangerous scissors block
Unfortunately, every forum seems to have at least one blow‑hard who knows a guy, who knew a guy who was attacked and successfully used a scissors block. If you get really lucky, it may work, but the odds are really heavily against you.
Many readers may have seen the “Surviving Edged Weapons” (1988) video. Around the 74 minutes mark there is a simulated attack where the police officer uses a scissors block.
As soon as he is stopped, the attacker drives the point of his knife into one of the cop's forearms and cuts deep along and down the forearm.
If you made the block with the palms towards the attacker, the way it is often taught, the radial and ulnar arteries and nerves will be exposed to this counter. Getting cut on the outside of the forearm is not much fun either.
As an aside, note how often defensive moves in tai chi present the outer surfaces of the forearms towards a foe.
A long bladed weapon may reach past the scissors block and injure the face or head. While it is unlikely an attacker would have a sword bayonet, bread knives or carving knives are possible threats. Such knives are found in any domestic kitchen or hardware store and often feature in domestic violence.
For an armed fighter with a weapon in each hand, such as a pair of sai, the scissors block may work.
Fencing masters such as Joseph Swetnam called this the “double parry” and recommended it as a technique by which the rapier and dagger could deal with powerful longer weapons such as a quarterstaff. Notable is that this is described as a parry, suggesting that it is used to redirect force rather than block/obstruct/oppose it.
Any technique that leaves a target in the path of a weapon has potential for a dangerous failure.
Erle Montaigue crossed arms parry
In my last blog, I supplied a link for Erle Montaigue's “How to Use T'ai Chi as a Fighting Art”. The term “scissors block” is used twice in this work. If the associated photos are examined (Nos. 19, 20, 38 and also 11) it will be seen that what is actually being used is a type of two‑handed parry. Waist rotation is being used to divert the force away to the side rather than trying to directly oppose or absorb it.
Rather than countering a vertical downward attack, the two‑handed parry is being used against low lateral attacks. A similar technique could be used against higher level attacks. A low cross hand parry is sometimes termed a “willow tree”.
One of the reasons for using two hands is as a counter to the folding principle. The other hand helps sense or inhibit attempts to slip another attack past a successful parry.
Tai chi crossed arms parry
From long har chuan (covered in both my self-defence books) you will have learnt that one hand will often take over a parry to free the other for a more effective counter‑attack. This is facilitated if both hands are in close proximity when the initial defence is made.
With this in mind, it will come as no surprise that many tai chi forms have movements where the hands or wrists are crossed.
Both Yang and Wu styles have a movement usually translated as “cross hands”. Alternately, it is called “ten hands” since the Chinese symbol for the number ten is a cross.
The technique commonly called squeeze, press, ghi, ji or chee may also be looked at as a type of crossed hands. Some writers use the term “cross hands” when discussing ghi. Usually one hand is held with the back toward the foe, and the palm of the other hand placed on the wrist.
One of the applications of this technique is to grasp the head, chest or a limb between the two hands, hence the squeeze/press name.
The joined hands may also be used to push or strike when close to the foe. A variation is to place one palm on the back of the other to make a two‑handed palm strike. Erle notes the press attack can either be a powerful pushing movement or it can be a snapping downward attack.
Yet another variation uses one forearm to ward‑off (peng/p'eng) the foe's attack or body. The rear palm is placed on the forearm and body motion used to unbalance or strike the foe.
The next example is taken from “Wu Style Taijiquan” by Wang Peisheng and Zeng Weiqi.
Twisting move from Wu tai chi.
Tai chi moves can often appear very abstract. In this technique, the fighter crosses his hands while apparently allowing one leg to cross behind the other. At first glance, this seems a questionable and potentially unstable move.
When seen in context, we see the twisting turn and drop to the right avoids and aborts the attacker's attempt to kick with his right foot. The motion further unbalances the attacker to fall to his left.
Wu tai chi twisting action unbalances foe.
The twisting and dropping action has acted like a spring being compressed, allowing the tai chi fighter to explode upwards and knee or kick his unbalanced attacker.
Crossing the hands puts them in a position from where they can be thrown outwards for balance, or as an alternate or follow-up means to strike.
Wu tai chi twist throws attacker and kicks out.
For a casual-looking ready stance, place one hand over the other at around belt-buckle height. From this position a variety of defensive or counter-offensive moves can be made.

Weapons

Many of the techniques described above may be used if you are only wielding a single weapon.
If you are using a baseball bat or hiking staff, you will most likely hold it like a katana with both hands. The weapon may be wielded to defend either side.
If using a weapon with less grip area, such as a knife or baton, it may seem that you unarmed side is less defended. The solution is to bring the weapon to the same central location that a longer weapon would be used from. The unarmed hand is brought up to around the opposite shoulder to defend the chest and throat area. The Filipino martial arts refer to this as the “live hand”.
Use of the alive hand with a single weapon.
With a little thought, it can be seen that the unarmed hand may be brought forward to assist the armed hand in several of the two‑hand defensive and counter‑attacking techniques already suggested for unarmed use.
Essentially, you have created a posture where your inside gate is close. You keep your inside gate towards the enemy so that you may use either hand in defence or attack.
Categories
Barata

Returning to Tai Chi

A couple of months back, I hurt my leg.
I was walking-up the slightly sloped street just before my house. Nothing different from what I have done hundreds of times before.
Something just “went” in my inner calf and the inside of my foot.
Not sure what is more worrying. How long it is taking for my leg to heal, or that such a thing can just happen again for no apparent cause or reason.
I have spent the last few months limping everywhere, to varying levels of pain or discomfort.
One thing I have noticed is I seem to have experienced less migraine attacks, which I suspect due to the leg pain stimulating endorphins/endocannabinoids. This gives me a nice choice: periodically lose chunks of vision, or walk more and be in constant discomfort.
The other day I came across two inaccurate comments about tai chi. Tai chi is the only thing I had not yet tried on my bad leg.
Tai chi puts gentle stress on the lower legs, so is known to be useful in healing certain conditions.
While the kettle was boiling, I went through what I could recall of the tai chi form.
Much to my surprise, I noticed that the constant tension along my inner calf had completely vanished. The inside of my foot still hurt, but was possibly toned down a little.
The leg thing did not come back for several days, and was usually only noticeable in the morning before I had practised the form, or if I had been immobile for some time.
For over a week now, I have been making an effort to run through a few moves each morning. I will fit in a session before bed if I am not too sleepy.
The pain in the foot is beginning to reduce, which is encouraging.
As I wait for the train, I use a modified version of the rocking from one foot to the other that is described in the “Anti-Jet Lag” book.
Rather than following my old (Yang) form, I have decided to try learning the form in the book “Compact Tai Chi” by Jesse Tsao. The early parts are mainly Yang, with some Chen, Sun and Wu techniques added in later sections.
One of the good points of my ailing memory is that I have forgotten so much of the Yang form that I learnt, it does not conflict with learning a new form.
An added bonus is that this training has interested me in other styles of tai chi. So far I have mainly found information of Wu style, although it is not often clear which Wu style. There are two styles of tai chi called “Wu”. In Chinese they have different tones, so are distinct words. Often these are simply translated as Wu, and it is not obvious if this is Wú: second, rising or high-rising tone; or Wǔ (Hǎo): third, falling-rising or low tone.
Many books on tai chi to not bother to tell you the style, or even the form they describe.
Compact Tai Chi is a good book and does a nice job of explaining the form. I have something of a tai chi background, so it is hard for me to judge if this book alone would be good for a beginner.
Tsao does describe a martial application after each posture. I would advise anyone wishing to practice tai chi for any reason to familiarize themselves with the martial applications.
It is much easier to get the movements right if you keep in mind a certain movement is intended as a strike, or as a parry sweeping an attack away from your face and abdomen, for example.
How to Use T'ai Chi as a Fighting Art” by Erle Montaigue is a good start, as is the Compilation book with Erle and I collaborated on.
“Advanced Yang Style Tai Chi Chuan Vol. 2 : Martial Applications” by Jwing-Ming Yang is also good for the applications section. The most recent edition combines all volumes in one cover. I am not sure if all the original content is retained.
“Wu Style Taijiquan” by Wang Peisheng and Zeng Weiqi includes numerous illustrations of techniques.
Categories
Phillosoph

Rhyming Letter Getter

Today I would like to share another memory tool that I have encountered.
Beautiful Oriental Girl to help you remember this idea
This is called the “Rhyming Letter Getter”, and is described here.
The post does not give all the rhymes used, so the ones that I use are:
0 : No (“O-No” or zero: No)
1 : Bun (or Uno: Bueno)
2 : Poo
3 : Tree
4 : Door
5 : Knive (deliberately misspelt to make it more memorable)
6 : Sticks
7 : Heaven
8 : Gate
9 : Wine
There are other number:letter systems, but this one is very easy to learn.
Tactical Hand Signals for Numbers
If you prefer, or English is not your first language, you may use other rhymes or letters.
The only rules are that each number gets a different letter, and all letters are consonants.

How to Use

If you have a number to remember, transpose the digits into letters. Then throw in some vowels to make the sequence of consonants a word or words.
Acrostic phrases are another option.
The keycode “1489”, for example, might become BDGW, which I might remember as “BaD GeeW”.
“GoW” could be mistaken for the phonetically similar “GoH”, so I opted for the nonsense word GeeW.
The longer sequence 261011 could become “PS BaN BoB”.
“No, No, Don't Take The Dosh, Bank!” is 0043341.
Remember the street but keep forgetting the house number? Remember it as “DaN aP” instead.
As with other mnemonic techniques, the sillier or ruder the words you come up with, the more likely that you are to remember them.
Categories
Barata

Improving Your Memory: Number Shapes

Some of the previous blog have been inspired by topics that were in “Mind Performance Hacks” by Ron Hale-Evans.
Recently I have started reading the sequel, “Mindhacker” by Ron Hale-Evans and Marty Hale-Evans. I had previously dipped into this book for the posts on learning American manual alphabet (AMA).
Both books cover the topic of memory.
My memory has been getting demonstrably worse since 2019, so I looked at the section in the newer book with interest.
There are lots of systems of memorisation, some of them quite complex seeming.
One of the easier systems uses number shapes.
Humans are visually orientated animals. An image of something is easier to remember than a simple noun. If that image happens to be naughty, gory, silly, scary or similar, it is often more likely to be recalled.
Below is a number system suggested by the Mindhacker book and their website.
Number shapes to help memory
A couple of those images do not really work for me.
An elephant does not look much like a six. If anything, I would associate an elephant with five.
Instead, I use an insect. Insects have six legs. There is a great variety of insects so I can select the type most appropriate to what I am trying to remember.
A tennis racquet for nine? I prefer to use a cat, or even a cat-o-nine tails.
The first version of a number memory aid I encountered only had four images. These were Flagpole, Red Bloomers, Tricycle, Pig.
You can use any four-legged animal, but cartoon pigs are funny and distinctive looking, so work well.
Red bloomers are sometimes substituted with a pair of trousers if this works better for what I want to remember. A pair of boobs works better for some images.
I came across an interesting system of unit signs used by a Canadian Divisions in the First World War.
A circle was used for one, a half-circle for two, a triangle for three and a square for four. An arch or archway may be used in place of the half-circle. These shapes may be used to create memory images if they make a better image than the other suggestions. If visiting someone is your second chore, you might visualise the individual standing beneath a stone archway, for example.
An alternative for five is to remember a hand, since it has five fingers. Perhaps think of the Thing from the Addams Family.
A tripod can be an alternative for three.
A spider or a snowman is an alternative for eight. I might even use a snowman lock pick, which is an object familiar to me personally.
These are just suggestions. Adapt the elements to what works for you.
I generally have an n-1 memory. Seven things to remember and will remember six. Five things and I can remember four, no problem.
This was the case with the list of items in the SOE Loadout blog. Always could not remember one item.
As an experiment, I tried making a number shape list.
It worked so well, I added more items to include the Ninja travelling list too.
How I did it was:
1 I could have flown or hoist something up the flagpole. For his example, the candle was an obvious reminder for a flashlight. My EDC also includes a candle, so this is an additional reminder to number 6.
2 Trousers with bulging pockets reminded me that money was an item. Pockets bulging with money, like mine never have. Or you can think of banknotes stuffed down cleavage.
Money stored between boobs.
3 The heart with a knife in it was an obvious object to remind me of knives and tools.
Customized Swiss Army Ranger with pocket clip
4 For the compass, I placed it in a square to represent the four corners of the Earth. If you want, imagine the angels standing in the corners of the Earth as the Bible describes. In the centre sits a compass, and this is the trigger for maps and other navigation aids.
The square Earth reminds you to take a compass
5 Five is a hook. On that hook hangs a skein of thread, or it is attached to the hook like a fishing line. Five reminds me of cordage and fishing gear, and by association, other hunting items. This is a very effective memory hook.
6 Six is a ladybird in a matchbox. Matchbox means matches, which means fire kit. I do not carry matches, they are reminder for the lighter, tinder and more useful means of ignition or cooking.
7 Seven may be an axe, Grimm Reaper's scythe, or similarly shaped tool. In this example, it is an axe chopping a bandaged leg. Medical items.
8 Eight is an hourglass with a wrist watch around its centre. Perhaps a slender spider crawls across the hourglass.
9 Here is a handsome black cat with a stylish broad‑brimmed hat and a rakish neckerchief. Over one shoulder is a stick with a bundle in a hanky at the end. A rather effective image, it reminds me of hats, bandannas and walking sticks, all useful things to have on a trip. By association, hats and bandannas remind me of shelter and clothing accessories such a good gloves, goggles etc. “A cat in a hat with a staff and a scarf.”
10 Ten is formed by a tire (or donut) beside an upright pencil or pen.  This represents pens, pencils, sharpies, chalk, notebook, documents and other items of communication. “Ten is a pen.”
The above is just an example, of course. The order of the above items does not matter, so I have arranged them to best suit the number shapes they are with. Memorising an ordered list is also possible.
Using this system, I have managed to keep this list in memory for several days now.
All I have to do is say the numbers and the associated item pops into mind.
Categories
Barata

Keep a "Books Read" List

It is no great secret that my memory has been getting worse since at least 2019.
The other day, I came across an interesting term. A day or so later, I came across an opportunity to use this new word.
Could I remember the word, no.
Worse, I could not remember where I had encountered the word.
It must be in one of the books I read within the last few days.
Eventually, I remembered the word, but still no idea from where.
Lots of Books
I have read several books on diverse subjects over the last week. I also may dip into several other books during a day.
 
Since I have just started reading another of the Mindhack books, I will suggest a “hack” of my own I have now adopted.
 
On your computer, have a .txt file called “Books Read” (for example).
This file should be easily accessible, such as on your desktop or in the documents folder. It should open quickly, using a program such as Notepad or Xed.
 
List each book you read and/or complete, in the order you read them.
You can mark books you have started but not got around to finishing.
Also, put down when you dip into a book to find a piece of information or quotation. Perhaps note what it was you found.
 
Current list looks like:
Information Anxiety
Information Anxiety 2
On Writing Well, Zinsser
Greek and Roman Artillery, Osprey
Steampunk Guide to the Apocalypse
*The I Hate to Housekeep Book" Flagpole memory aid*
Mindhacker–
 
I do not use a full title and author, just enough to identify the book.
Titles between asterixes are books consulted for references. In this example, I had reread the chapter on memory tricks.
Double dashes are books started but not finished. Depending on your reading habits, there may be several of these.
I suppose I could distinguish between electronic and dead tree books.
A separate column for fiction and non‑fiction is another possibility.
When this list gets longer, I may duplicate the data in a spreadsheet for easier sorting and searching.
 
I wish I had started this habit years ago. I have folders full of novels where I cannot recall which ones I have read and which I have not.
 
If you find yourself in a similar situation of being unable to recall where you read something, or even if you have read something, you at least have a shortlist of where something may have been.
Now I just have to remember to keep the list up to date.