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Read The Third Wave by Alvin Toffler!
Categories
Barata

Knives You Need: Part Three, Butcher Knife

In other posts I have discussed whether one needs a fighting knife.
Most of my readers probably own a few multi-purpose knives that will serve if the need for defence arose.
I have reached for a kukri on at least one occasion, and my machete would be a good option too.
If I needed something more compact, my Moras or Gerber Strongarm would serve well.
The following was taken from “The Soldier’s Handbook” by (Lt. Col) Anthony B. Herbert.
Herbert's ideas on fighting knives
I apologise for the poor quality. The paper is supposed to be copier-proof. This was the best I could do.
A. Blade should hold keen edge.
B. Heavy enough for hacking, as well as sharp pointed enough for stabbing.
C. Smooth straight handle for throwing.
D. Hand guard for protection.
E. Well balanced.
F. Durable.
G. Structure is simplistic.
H. Inexpensive
A knife which meets all of the above is the standard heavy bladed butcher knife illustrated above which requires the sole modification of adding a hand guard and which sells for under six dollars.
The gentleman had a point [pun intended].
A good butcher knife is a rather useful investment. It has been many decades since they cost six dollars, but they are still very reasonable in price.
As you can see below, mine is made by Victorinox.
I have not felt the need to add a hand guard. The handle design offers some protection to the fingers, and the lack of quillons makes it a little more compact and snag-free.
The only modification is that I used my set of gimlets to add a channel for a retaining cord. Why buy a nice knife and not take precautions against losing it?
Butcher knives like this are designed to be used by professional butchers all day long. Thus the grip is very comfortable and designed to be non‑slip.
Butcher knife and M3 Combat Knife
My “smaller” butcher knife, with an M3 combat knife for comparison.
This is a 20 centimetre model. I have not been able to find butcher knives shorter than this. Despite its size, the knife itself only masses six ounces (170 g).
The blade is about two millimetres thick, much thinner than your typical hunting, survival or military design.
Because it is so thin, the blade moves fast, is agile and cuts very well, which are not bad traits for a fighting knife. Rather than hacking, as Herbert suggests, the length, thinness and curved edge make this more of a slasher. Being thin but broad, the point is very effective too.
Given it is made by Victorinox, I am confident that the blade is unlikely to bend or break in general use. Being stainless steel, rusting is not a concern either.
The blade has taken a very sharp edge.
It is an intimidating beast that looks bigger than it is. That is quite an endorsement from someone with a house full of kukris.
If the appearance makes an aggressor have second thoughts, that may be a good thing. Sometimes the best weapons are those that do not have to be used.
If you do not like the polished finish, follow the link on darkening steel in the second part of this series.
If you hunt large game, a butcher knife is worth considering adding to your kit. It will dress game much more efficiently than most hunting knives. Is is literally what it was designed for.
Herbert sheath using tape
I took another leaf from Herbert’s book and made a sheath out of tape as he describes.
For the inner parts, wrap the tape from bottom to top. This makes it easier to insert the blade and helps keep the blade in place once sheathed.
Post‑Halloween trivia: None of the famous movie slashers ever used a butcher knife. Most seem to prefer chef’s knives.
Movie Slashers prefer kitchen knives
Categories
Barata

Palms In! Parrying Against Knives

I will tell you something that most martial arts teachers and self‑defence instructors do not like to admit. Some do not even admit it to themselves.
Many of the techniques you may have learnt will not work if your attacker has a knife.
Switching to a specialised set of anti‑knife techniques is not a solution. In many knife attacks, the defender fails to see the knife before the attack. Poor lighting, crowded conditions or competent tactics by the knife-man are just some of the factors that can hide a blade.
ATACK: Assume That Attacker Conceals Knives. Treat any attack as a potential knife attack. Defend accordingly.
Whenever you learn a technique, you should be asking yourself several questions:
• Will this technique be practical if the attacker has a knife or other weapon?
•Is the attack realistic? Would it reach the defender and is the attacker maintaining a guard?
• How would I counter this technique if I was the attacker?
• Would this technique work against someone not fighting in my style or a particular style?
Today’s blog expands on an observation I made in a previous post.
I noted how frequent it was that many tai chi defensive movements presented the outer surfaces of the forearms towards an enemy.
The inner side of the forearm has a deeper covering of flesh. Within these muscles are the radial and ulnar arteries and the radial, medial and ulnar nerves.
Nerves and Arteries of the forearm and upper arm
A strike to the inner forearm may numb the nerves, reducing the limb’s ability to defend or attack. A cut to the inner forearm may sever one or more arteries, resulting in a potentially fatal bleed‑out.
If you cannot avoid taking a blow or cut, taking it on the outer rather than the inner side of the forearm is preferable.
Cloth, such as your sleeves will help reduce any damage from a knife strike. If you are a law enforcement officer or in a similar role where knife attack is probable, make a habit of wearing gloves or fingerless gloves.
Here I will remind the reader that parrying actions are secondary defence techniques to evasion and avoidance. Techniques such a ginga and dodging will keep away from knives. Parries are used when evasion fails, or as a component of a counter‑attack action to control the weapon hand.
An effective parry does not just redirect an attack, but includes motions that remove potential targets from the path of the attack.

Palm-In Parrying

Many tai chi defensive movements/“postures” place the lead hand with the back of the hand toward the enemy or uppermost. This orientation protects the inner forearm area from the most likely direct attacks.
One of the most obvious example of this is peng/p’eng/wardoff. The lead arm is held curved and roughly horizontal before the body, back of the palm towards the threat. The rear arm is usually held below or behind the lead arm, often orientated so the inner forearm is protected.
In “How To Use Tai Chi As A Fighting Art”, Erle reminds us that in combat the “hold the ball” hand positioning is often made with the lower hand palm down.
“In this posture the harder area of the forearm is used to block [parry] the attack and so not damage the soft area of the arm.”
In other movements, such as “Grasp sparrow’s tail” we see the lead arm in a more vertical position, but once again the back of the palm and outer forearm are towards the enemy.
Parries with the outer forearm may utilize the ulnar edge of the forearm, in much the same way that parries with the palm may utilize the edges of the hand. Avoid parrying bone against bone, however.
Parries from such movements are often taken with the outer forearm making initial contract. Combined with waist movement, the arm may rotate to redirect the attack. This action may result in the hand being placed palm down on the limb. This contact may be used to grab, hook, redirect, push, control or to sense the foe’s next actions.
For an example, see the illustration of the “Outside Crane” in “Attack, Avoid, Survive”. Contact is made with the back of the hand and the hand rolls to hook the fingers over the arm.
Such contacts should be transitory. Leave a hand in contact too long and the foe may try cutting it.
For those familiar with wing chun, it will be appreciated that tan/taan sau/sao is an outer forearm towards the enemy configuration.

Palm-First Parries

Of the tai chi movements that do not present the back of the hand, many instead make initial contact with the palm or fingertips. Many of these use an approach angle that still protects the inner side of the forearm.
Under parries with the palm, I choose to include those movements that make initial contact with either edge of the palm. This is the “knife‑hand” between the base of the little finger and wrist, and the “reverse knife hand” surface between the base of the thumb and wrist. A contact made with the edge of the hand may roll into a contact with the palm. A contact with the palm may transfer to the a palm edge.
It is also possible to employ the edges of the palm when making palm-inward actions.
Remember that palm‑first actions may be parries or strikes. In fact, the only difference between a strike and a parry is often one of context and opportunity.
One of the aspects of simultaneous attack and defence is that one body-part may attack as another defends. Another aspect is that a defence may also attack and an attack also defend.
The back of the palm is also a striking weapon. For example, from peng, either hand may deliver a potent backhand strike under the jawline to the Stomach‑9 point on the side of the throat.
Less potentially lethal, the back of the hand may simultaneously hit the points above the eye and under the cheekbone.

Quadrants of Parrying

In previous writings, I have talked about the “quadrants of defence”. Most attacks may be parried by either a inward or outward parry, and will require either a high or low level parrying action. Your parrying response thus constitutes either a rhomboid or a rectangle, depending on the fighting method you train in.
The “back‑of‑the‑hand”  or “palm‑in” parries are very well suited to outward parries.
From “hold the ball” or “grasp the sparrow’s tail” the arm is easily dropped to swing outwards for a low parry or flicked up and outward against a higher attack. Because tai chi teaches you to hold your arms relaxed, such actions can be very fast and strong.
The outside of the forearm in the primary contact area, although the back of the hand may slap an attack off line. More of slapping‑style parries a little later.
Inward back‑of‑the‑hand parries may need a bit more practice.
The high inward parry may be made as a chopping action, contact area most likely being the ulnar edge of the forearm or the knife‑edge of the hand. Allow your arm to relax and power the motion by a waist twist and footwork.
The low inward back‑of‑the‑hand parry I find a little more awkward. You need a sort of combined swinging/thrusting action, with a waist twist to power it and take potential targets out of the way. This resembles the low parry of karate, but is thrust inward. A hikate action can help with the waist action.
Palm‑first parries, including knife‑hand and reverse knife‑hand actions, may either parry inward or outward. Their drawback is that using the hand rather than the forearm, the defender must be more accurate and there is a greater probability of failure.
In addition, certain palm parries will expose the inner forearm to attack. Favour palm parries that keep the outside or the forearm uppermost and/or towards the enemy.
When practical, use double‑handed parries rather than single‑arm inward parries. The outward parrying arm of the pair will probably be in a back of the palm outward configuration, with the outside of forearm available to parry.
Some parrying actions that used crossed arms were described in the last post. Practice these so the outer sides of the forearms are always outward/uppermost relative to the enemy/threat.
Double‑handed parries need not be made with the arms touching each other. See the illustration of an “inside crane” in my book. The rear arm makes an outward parry with the outside of the forearm and the palm inward, and the lead hand makes a knife‑hand parry with the outer forearm upwards.
Ready stances such as boxing ready, fighting ready and p;eng hinge should be practised with the back of the hands and forearms towards the enemy.
Erle Montaigue in casual peng hinge ready stance
Erle is shown in a variant of p'eng hinge (above). This posture looks non-aggressive, but one arm is positioned ready to defend the upper body, the other the lower and they both may act together.
Another useful pre‑combat stance is to stand with one hand over the other, both around belt‑buckle level.
A defence against a high hooking strike is to bring your hand up to the side of your head, as though brushing back your hair (if you still have some). Ideally this action sweeps across the face on the way. This defence also utilizes the outer forearm area of the bent arm.
Commonly depicted as a blocking action, this can be made into a parry/evasion by turning toward the attack and dropping downward and moving backward. This spiralling action may be used to drive the other hand out in a counter‑strike.
This action may offer some protection against a high knife attack, reducing the severity of an injury at least.
Combine this arm motion with ginga and you have esquiva.
Note that in ginga the bent arm presents the outside of the forearm towards the foe.

Whip/Slap Parries

In “Knives, Knife Fighting & Related Hassles”, Marc Macyoung recommends “whip/slap” parries. These “…originate from the wrist, using the elbow as a pivot point. One way of looking at them is, under control, you throw your wrist at an incoming strike. When done properly, the wrist will arrive at the destination the moment your arm’s motion is arrested. This allows for all of the energy to be transferred into whatever is hit.”
Striking or parrying with a relaxed or semi‑relaxed arm has obvious parallels with the tai chi techniques and principles described above.
When applied with the palm of the hand, the whip/slap parries clearly have a similarity to the tai chi palm‑first defensive moves already described. Obvious applications are as inward or downward parries.
As a parrying technique primarily using the hands, accuracy is needed as well as speed and relaxation.
Horse foot hand used in tai chi single whip
Crane/Horse Foot Hand of Whip ParryThe hand configuration shown in Macyoung’s book for the upwards whip parry (left) has a clear resemblance to the crane/turtle head/horse foot hand used in tai chi single whip (above). As the relaxed hand is flicked upward or outward, the wrist naturally bends and the fingers trail. Primary impact surface is the back of the hand or the wrist area.
I have seen a clip of Erle Montaigue conducting a knife defence workshop. A student stabs at Erle, so Erle twist to face right and brings an arm up in an explosive “Paint the fence, Daniel‑san”  move, hitting the underside of the knife arm. Much to everyone’s surprise, this impact against the arm knocks the knife out of the student’s hand and high up into the air.
This nicely illustrates that a whip/slap type technique may be used even if the contract area is the outer forearm rather than the wrist or hand. This action is therefore applicable to movements where the back of the hand is towards an enemy.
A parry with the dorsum of a horse foot palm is not just for rising parries. The back of the horse foot hand may be directed as an outward horizontal or oblique parry or even as a downward parry with the fingers raised upwards.
When the fingers of a horse foot hand are horizontal this resembles the fook sau of wing chun, so may be used for indexing a foe.
Elsewhere, I have discussed how the horse foot hand form may be used as a hammer‑fist, reverse hammer‑fist or a downward punch.
As a defensive technique, horse foot hand may both parry and hook over attacking limbs.
The sides of the horse foot hand, or even the knuckles, may also be used to parry/strike at an attack.
Note that these defensive moves have mainly used the palm, knife-hand and hammer-fist, the primary weapons taught in Crash Combat. To these has been added the use of the back of the hand and the forearm.
This is a further illustration of how defensive moves may be used offensively.
Categories
Barata

Cross Hands

First of all, I will make it clear that this blog is not about the infamous scissor block aka X-block.
The danger of this technique I have addressed in both my self‑defence books and on this blog a few times already.
The infamous, dangerous scissors block
Unfortunately, every forum seems to have at least one blow‑hard who knows a guy, who knew a guy who was attacked and successfully used a scissors block. If you get really lucky, it may work, but the odds are really heavily against you.
Many readers may have seen the “Surviving Edged Weapons” (1988) video. Around the 74 minutes mark there is a simulated attack where the police officer uses a scissors block.
As soon as he is stopped, the attacker drives the point of his knife into one of the cop's forearms and cuts deep along and down the forearm.
If you made the block with the palms towards the attacker, the way it is often taught, the radial and ulnar arteries and nerves will be exposed to this counter. Getting cut on the outside of the forearm is not much fun either.
As an aside, note how often defensive moves in tai chi present the outer surfaces of the forearms towards a foe.
A long bladed weapon may reach past the scissors block and injure the face or head. While it is unlikely an attacker would have a sword bayonet, bread knives or carving knives are possible threats. Such knives are found in any domestic kitchen or hardware store and often feature in domestic violence.
For an armed fighter with a weapon in each hand, such as a pair of sai, the scissors block may work.
Fencing masters such as Joseph Swetnam called this the “double parry” and recommended it as a technique by which the rapier and dagger could deal with powerful longer weapons such as a quarterstaff. Notable is that this is described as a parry, suggesting that it is used to redirect force rather than block/obstruct/oppose it.
Any technique that leaves a target in the path of a weapon has potential for a dangerous failure.
Erle Montaigue crossed arms parry
In my last blog, I supplied a link for Erle Montaigue's “How to Use T'ai Chi as a Fighting Art”. The term “scissors block” is used twice in this work. If the associated photos are examined (Nos. 19, 20, 38 and also 11) it will be seen that what is actually being used is a type of two‑handed parry. Waist rotation is being used to divert the force away to the side rather than trying to directly oppose or absorb it.
Rather than countering a vertical downward attack, the two‑handed parry is being used against low lateral attacks. A similar technique could be used against higher level attacks. A low cross hand parry is sometimes termed a “willow tree”.
One of the reasons for using two hands is as a counter to the folding principle. The other hand helps sense or inhibit attempts to slip another attack past a successful parry.
Tai chi crossed arms parry
From long har chuan (covered in both my self-defence books) you will have learnt that one hand will often take over a parry to free the other for a more effective counter‑attack. This is facilitated if both hands are in close proximity when the initial defence is made.
With this in mind, it will come as no surprise that many tai chi forms have movements where the hands or wrists are crossed.
Both Yang and Wu styles have a movement usually translated as “cross hands”. Alternately, it is called “ten hands” since the Chinese symbol for the number ten is a cross.
The technique commonly called squeeze, press, ghi, ji or chee may also be looked at as a type of crossed hands. Some writers use the term “cross hands” when discussing ghi. Usually one hand is held with the back toward the foe, and the palm of the other hand placed on the wrist.
One of the applications of this technique is to grasp the head, chest or a limb between the two hands, hence the squeeze/press name.
The joined hands may also be used to push or strike when close to the foe. A variation is to place one palm on the back of the other to make a two‑handed palm strike. Erle notes the press attack can either be a powerful pushing movement or it can be a snapping downward attack.
Yet another variation uses one forearm to ward‑off (peng/p'eng) the foe's attack or body. The rear palm is placed on the forearm and body motion used to unbalance or strike the foe.
The next example is taken from “Wu Style Taijiquan” by Wang Peisheng and Zeng Weiqi.
Twisting move from Wu tai chi.
Tai chi moves can often appear very abstract. In this technique, the fighter crosses his hands while apparently allowing one leg to cross behind the other. At first glance, this seems a questionable and potentially unstable move.
When seen in context, we see the twisting turn and drop to the right avoids and aborts the attacker's attempt to kick with his right foot. The motion further unbalances the attacker to fall to his left.
Wu tai chi twisting action unbalances foe.
The twisting and dropping action has acted like a spring being compressed, allowing the tai chi fighter to explode upwards and knee or kick his unbalanced attacker.
Crossing the hands puts them in a position from where they can be thrown outwards for balance, or as an alternate or follow-up means to strike.
Wu tai chi twist throws attacker and kicks out.
For a casual-looking ready stance, place one hand over the other at around belt-buckle height. From this position a variety of defensive or counter-offensive moves can be made.

Weapons

Many of the techniques described above may be used if you are only wielding a single weapon.
If you are using a baseball bat or hiking staff, you will most likely hold it like a katana with both hands. The weapon may be wielded to defend either side.
If using a weapon with less grip area, such as a knife or baton, it may seem that you unarmed side is less defended. The solution is to bring the weapon to the same central location that a longer weapon would be used from. The unarmed hand is brought up to around the opposite shoulder to defend the chest and throat area. The Filipino martial arts refer to this as the “live hand”.
Use of the alive hand with a single weapon.
With a little thought, it can be seen that the unarmed hand may be brought forward to assist the armed hand in several of the two‑hand defensive and counter‑attacking techniques already suggested for unarmed use.
Essentially, you have created a posture where your inside gate is close. You keep your inside gate towards the enemy so that you may use either hand in defence or attack.
Categories
Phillosoph

Slash and Thrust by John Sanchez

When I first started this blog, I expected that I would be writing more book reviews than I have done. The problem is, many martial arts books are somewhat lacking in content.
The reason I wrote my first book was to address many of the points that I did not feel were adequately covered. Hence it is very hard to review a book such as “Slash and Thrust” without making the point that my own work does a better job at covering the techniques of defensive knife use or throwing objects in self-defence.

Back in the days when I was a regular on a knife throwing forum, John Sanchez’s book “Slash and Thrust” would sometimes be mentioned.
These mentions were usually due to the short section on throwing weapons in the book, and in particular a weapon Sanchez called the “Irish Dart”.
Years ago, I flipped through a friend’s copy of the book, but I admit we were mainly interested in the throwing section at the end.
Recently another friend commented that he intended to brush up on his knife techniques by rereading his copy of Slash and Thrust.
I decided to finally treat myself to a cheap second hand copy.
According to the blurb: “Until Slash and Thrust, no book ever presented a complete, practical knife fighter’s training program. This classic covers choosing the martial knife, quick-kill strikes, footwork, deceptive movements and using such exotic weapons as the shuriken, shaken, Irish dart, chakram and Chinese cloth dart.”
Quite a big claim for a small book of only 68-72 pages!
Having now read the book properly, my impression is of an inflatable structure that tries to look substantial but has very little content.
For example, Sanchez notes that there are a number of different footwork techniques used in various martial arts and then states he favours “natural footwork”. That sounds very logical, wise and sensible, but once you examine the statement, you realize it has very little actual meaning or content.
The footwork he goes on to describe involves moving with the knees bent. While this is a good technique, it is not what I would describe as natural.
The book has a number of statements or references that seem to be placed there mainly for the effect of making it seem more learned or insightful than it actually is.
In its handful of pages Sanchez uses the phrase “common sense” at least four times. Readers will be aware that this is a fiction, and any time someone uses this phrase instead of providing detail or justification, any information should be treated with skepticism and suspicion.
Sanchez also describes thrusting with a kukri as “at best, awkward”, which makes me seriously doubt that he has ever handled one.
There is a section on carrying techniques where Sanchez advocates carrying a belt knife inclined with the edge up.
He makes an argument that because the hand is inverted and turned palm out to draw from, this position it is better defended.
In fact, this would expose the more vulnerable area of the inner forearm with its nerves, blood vessels and tendons.
It also ignores that if the enemy is within attacking range you should be defending rather than attempting to draw a weapon.
The book does have some points of interest, but it was easy to overlook these among the padding.
You may pick up a tip or two, and one or two good points are made, but there is no way that this should be used as your main source of instruction. It gives little glimpses rather than a comprehensive view.
Occasionally he refers back to some ideas “already described” but these were in fact detailed very briefly.
Areas such as the guard posture could have been described better and would have benefited from an illustration.
There is an illustration of useful target areas, but important information such as that there is a high probability that attacking through the ribs can cause a blade to jam or be lost is not mentioned.
Sanchez suggests a number of books to consult for further study.
Paradoxes of Defence” by George Silver is mentioned a number of times. I have mentioned Silver’s works on these pages, and in my books too.
Silver is worth a read but his comments on knife fighting techniques are only a few paragraphs long.
Also, Sanchez fails to mention that Silver’s discussion of actual techniques are in his related work “Brief Instructions upon my Paradoxes of Defence”.
Musashi’sBook of Five Rings” is also suggested for reading. Referencing this book was quite common in the 80s. The Book of Five Rings contains some techniques for sword use. I don’t recall any knife relevant stuff in the book, but it has been a while since I read it, so will give Sanchez the benefit of the doubt there.
“Cold Steel” by John Styers is another suggestion. This is an interesting book providing you understand it was built on the ideas of Drexel-Biddle, whose knife fighting ideas were heavily influenced by sword-fighting techniques.
The last suggestion was Cassidy’s “Complete Book of Knife Fighting” See here for my review on that book. It is an interesting read, but I would be very cautious on trying its techniques in a real encounter!
As I have mentioned, there is a brief section on a variety of throwing weapons.
Sanchez admits that there may be situations when there is no other option but to throw a weapon, and briefly describes a number of historical examples of hand thrown weapons.
His explanation of how to throw knives and shuriken is reasonable if a little inaccurate on a few points.
Contrary to the claims of some reviews, the section on throwing weapons does not take up a third of the book. It is just a handful of pages.
For alternate information on self-defence, see my books.