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Phillosoph

"Shooting to Kill" for the Home Guard

There are a number of shooting systems that claim to utilize a shooter's “natural pointing ability”. While these systems seem to work, I will admit to having been a little skeptical as to just how inherent or accurate such pointing abilities really are.
Today I found an explanation that seems answer some of my doubts.
The writer explained that when you point at something the finger does not necessarily line up with the eye. Point at something and then move your head so you can look down your finger. You will find your pointing ability is much more accurate than you might have expected.
Learning this is rather timely, since this week I read “Shooting to Kill” by Andrew G. Elliot. Shooting to Kill is a manual written for soldiers and home guardsmen in the 1940s.
In my book “Survival Weapons: Optimizing Your Arsenal”, I describe a number of methods of using pistols or long-arms when there is not time to use the sights.
These include the “Quick Kill” methods based on the book “Shooting to Live” by Fairbairn and Sykes.
“Shooting to Kill” nicely complements the latter work, and not just in the symmetry of the titles!
The Quick Kill method can be described as locking your attention on your target and firing as your gun raises up into your field of vision. Shooting to Kill is written for riflemen but uses a method derived from the shotgun techniques developed by Robert Churchill.
Lock your attention on to the target, or more specifically the part of the target you intend to hit.
Raise your rifle to your shoulder and fire. This is done without trying to (consciously) acquire the sights.
Look, point and fire.
The body, support hand and eye are directed toward the target. The support hand fine tunes the muzzle's position.
The sights can be used if there is sufficient time, to “fine tune” the initial pointing.
If your shouldering action is sound, your eye should have naturally assumed a position where it was looking through the aperture rearsight at the foresight.
The brain automatically centres the foresight in the field of view.
If using a “U” rearsight, the eye should have assumed a position where it was looking across the rearsight at the frontblade, the top of the blade level with the top of the U.
Elliot notes that for most shots the sights are unnecessary if you have mastered this method.
Elliot notes that a rifleman is unlikely to engage targets beyond 300 yards so advocates that the battlesight be used exclusively in combat.
Like many of his contemporaries, he notes that a shooter has little need to concern themselves about the effect of wind, distance or rain at the combat ranges they will be shooting at.
Elliot on wind allowance: “The inexperienced will have heard much about allowance for wind, and the effect of rain on the bullet’s course. These factors can be ignored. In war, most shooting is at 300 yards or less, and at that range, wind or rain have no perceptible effect. In theory, with a strong wind, at a couple of thousand yards, aim should be taken a few feet to the windward, but in practice, except at very long ranges, it is better to ignore this academic principle.”
Traditional shooting ranges were only for zeroing and teaching the very rudiments. All other rifle practice should be combat orientated.
Elliot remarks that he gets respectable scores on the target range without using his rifle's sights.
The key to the technique that Elliot advocates is that the process of shouldering the rifle be sound and consistent.
The soldier or guardsman should often practise shouldering and pointing the rifle, for as much as an hour at a time. He notes this is also a very practical way to build up arm strength.
A firefight is no time to be guessing at target speeds and calculating leads.
Elliot suggests that moving targets be engaged with what would be called a “swing-through” of “smoketrail” method in more modern parlance.
Track the target and increase speed to swing past it and fire just ahead without halting your motion. Aiming point against moving targets was “the tunic buttons”. This automatically shortens the lead if the target is approaching at an angle.
Elsewhere he suggests the belt buckle as an aimpoint. Since soldiers often shoot high one can see the wisdom in this. A lower aim is also needed if a target is charging towards you or at a higher or lower elevation.
Some of the advice in this book needs to be taken in context.
Against an enemy firing over cover, an aimpoint several inches below the top of the cover is suggested.
The .303 rifles of this time had a battlesight zeroed to 300 yards, giving a maximal ordinate of seven to eight inches.
The .300 (.30-06) P17 used by the home guard had a battlesight set for 400 yards, giving a max ordinate of twelve to thirteen inches.
Thus a head shot at shorter ranges needed a significant hold under. More modern cartridges with a 200 metre zero will behave differently.
Against a prone target, Elliot suggests shooting low, which is reminiscent of Rhodesian combat techniques.
The book gives advice on a number of other matters.
When engaging low-flying aircraft, he suggests a lead equivalent to the distance between the forefinger and little finger tip of a spread hand held at arm's length. This is about ten to twelve degrees, which is about right for a target moving at around 200 mph.
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Phillosoph

Rifle Tactics

A significant contribution to the soldier’s load is ammunition. One way to reduce this is to modify how ammunition is expended.

Full-Auto Fever

An assault rifle is not a machine gun. The effective range of an assault rifle with fully automatic fire is considerably less than that of a true machine gun. Full auto from a rifle can be used to sweep a trench or clear a room. It will only be cost-effective at longer ranges if the enemy is in a big dumb bunch. Some manuals state the effective range of a rifle on full-auto as 50 metres. About half of this distance is probably more realistic. If the enemy is more than 50 metres away keep your rifle on semi-automatic.

Let the MGs, Mortars and Snipers Do the Work!

 When machine guns, snipers and mortars are available let them do the majority of the work. There is little point blazing away if you know you have little chance of having an effect. Only let the better marksmen make long range shots. Alternately use collective fire and semi-automatic volleys against the same target. Reserve your rifle ammunition for an assault or to repel assaults against the heavier weapons. The less you shoot the harder it is for the enemy to locate you.

Suppressive Fire Doesn’t Have to be Full-Auto

There will be times when rifles must provide suppressive fire. Think about the Westerns you have seen where a character gets pinned down in the rocks. The Winchesters and revolvers used did not need to go full-auto to do this! Suppress an enemy position with aimed, semi-automatic fire.

It’s Fire or Manoeuvre!

Running across a street guns blazing is pure Hollywood but you will see it done in real life. Firing like this has very little chance of hitting a target. Most of your rounds will not even be close enough to suppress an enemy. What this does do is waste your ammunition and draw attention to you!

If you are moving, concentrate on moving. Tactical movement needs your full attention. You need to be thinking about how you use the cover and concealment available and how you are going to traverse gaps and obstacles. Let other elements provide any suppression. Ideally a moving element should never be visible to an enemy.

Only when an enemy is within a few metres should you be firing and moving.

If you are shooting, concentrate on shooting. Use any cover and concealment as effectively as you can. Use the most stable firing posture that your surroundings allow. Standing or moving is the least accurate posture to shoot from. Prone is the most stable. If you are surprised, take cover first, then return fire. If in the open drop prone and then roll for cover.

Many years ago I came across a statement from the SAS when they were reactivated for operations in Malaya:

“At first we carried too much ammo. We learnt to carry less. We learnt to shoot less and hit more often.”
To that we can add a statement from the Home Guard Fieldcraft manual by Maj. John Langdon-Davies. He observes that a Home guard solder will never have as much ammo as he might wish for and that twenty rifle rounds at 25 yards will be far more effective that fifty at 250 yards.

Know when to fire and when not to.