Around page 306, the section on clothing choice is followed by:
“Personal equipment.
Nothing must be carried which is unnecessary. Personal equipment must be cut down to a minimum, and unnecessary objects mean extra bulk, weight, noise and possible loss of security. The following are always useful, and should be carried independent of personal taste or the necessities of the particular operation decided by the recce.
i) A knife, capable of being used either as a utility or offensive weapon. As an offensive weapon the ordinary clasp knife can be improved by sharpening the back of the blade for a short distance below the point.
ii) A match-box, full, because a half-empty box rattles. If there are only a few matches in the box the lower part of the box should be filled out with grass or other material.
iii) Some money – paper when possible – because coins in the pocket are noisy.
iv) A length of at least four yards of stout string. This may be used for any purpose from tieing [sic] up a man to preparing a booby trap or stretching across a path to give warning of a man’s approach.
v) A watch, worn on the wrist, where it will not get crushed when crawling.
vi) A compass, worn on a string round the neck, but carried down the back, where it will not cause discomfort when crawling.
vii) Some first-aid equipment on the lines of the British First Field Dressing.
The length of the operation and the type of ground will decide what type of quantity of food (or water) should be carried.”
One seldom encounters a load‑out list of such brevity, nor of such modest means.
With the exception of the compass, and possibly the knife, most of these recommendations might be considered common household items.
The above list nicely compliments that given in my article “Seven Tools of EDC”, even consisting of seven recommendations.
As the first paragraph explains, these items are carried in addition to mission specific items such as small arms, binoculars or explosives.
A later section on night operations recommends adding:
• A small pocket torch with spare battery. The torch may be encased in a section of bicycle tube to avoid noise, or it can be bound with rags.
• Stick encased in old bicycle tube for carefully feeling the ground ahead. The stick may also have a lead-loaded head as a weapon of silent offence.
• Watch and compass to have luminous dials. The watch is best worn on the wrist, with face against the skin instead of outwards. Compass worn as recommended above.
• Cough lozenges to prevent coughing.
Observations
i) A Swiss Army Knife is my usual EDC choice. SOE operatives might have a more serious and urgent need for their blades, so a more substantial folder was likely.
Other publications make it clear a dagger was likely to be carried for more deliberate operations.
Given the option, I would add at least one fixed blade knife to an outfit.
ii) In a modern context, carry a butane lighter, as recommended elsewhere in this blog.
Grass, thistle down or similar used to prevent matches rattling should be completely dry.
iii) Money is a useful tool. Look into ways in which coins (or keys) can be carried to minimize noise. If nothing else, stack them and wrap in duct tape.
iv) Four yards of stout string is the minimum. Elsewhere, the book notes several strings may be tied together to create guide‑ or contact‑lines.
A greater variety of cordage may be carried with very little additional encumbrance. For example, a pair of two metre lengths of paracord or bootlace, a three span length of braided fishing line, a two span length of comms‑cord, roll of dental floss and some cotton string easily may be distributed across your trouser pockets.
The cotton string may be used as tinder and for applications where biodegradable cordage is more appropriate.
v) The next section of the book stresses the necessity of timing and coordination, hence the emphasis on the watch.
Included in that topic is allowing adequate and realistic travel times and allowing time for unexpected occurrences.
A watch that may easily be synchronized with others may be most useful.
vi) While very small compasses have their uses (I am seldom without my Suunto Clipper), a larger compass that is easier to read should be carried if you are out of town. These may often be found for less cost than some button compasses.
Adding a whistle to a compass neck cord is a good idea.
vii) You should have some medical items for minor boo-boos. Aspirin, plasters and alcohol wipes meet most needs.
The SOE expected to be shot at, so a couple of field dressings was prudent.
If there are guns, bows or large tools about, have the means to deal with any injuries, such as a few “Israeli Dressings”.
About a week ago, I posted the second part of “Knives You Need”, discussing Swiss Army Knives.
Since the first version went up, I have added more links and more content.
The pocket clip for my Swiss Army Ranger arrived, so I have posted an additional image of the new scales with the clip installed.
I have also put a few additional modifications on the page.
For today’s chapter of Survival Library, it seems appropriate that I look at two books that look specifically at the use of Swiss Army Knives.
Whittling in the Wild
If you are interested in Swiss Army Knives, you will have encountered videos posted by Felix Immler. Most of the links from my previous blog are to videos by Herr Immler, and for good reason.
There is a lot of rubbish on Youtube, but people like Felix Immler are a welcome breath of fresh air!
Immler has written several books on the Swiss Army Knife, but I have only been able to find a copy of “Whittling in the Wild”. It may be found under variations of this title such as “Victorinox Swiss Army Knife Whittling in the Wild”.
Felix Immler has apparently done a lot of work encouraging young people to experience whittling and create objects for themselves.
Most of the projects in this book are toys, fun‑stuff or curios. This is not the book to teach shelter construction or how to make a better rabbit trap. However, within these projects are many construction techniques that might be put to other uses, so they are worth a browse.
The book is worth reading just for the sections on safely using your Swiss Army Knife and basic handling techniques.
If you have young people you want to teach to use a knife safely and creatively, this is an ideal book. Many of us longer in the tooth and barer in the pate may learn a thing or two too!
Swiss Army Knife Camping & Outdoor Survival Guide
The second book is “Swiss Army Knife Camping & Outdoor Survival Guide, 101 Tips, Tricks & Uses” by Bryan Lynch.
Part One of the book mainly looks at a variety of knife models from Victorinox, ranging from the 58mm Midnight Manager to the SwissChamps and several of the locking blade models.There is a nice chart comparing the models included in the book.
Part Two is a nice section on safely using and maintaining your knife, including sharpening tools such as the wood saw and the chisel.
Part Three is on using your Swiss Army Knife in the wilds.
One oddity of this section is the author states that the distance of an arm‑span, fingertips to fingertips, is “roughly 5 feet (152cm)”.
Generally, the arm‑span is taken to approximate an individual’s height. For me this is bang‑on: distance from the centre of my chest to finger tips is exactly half my height.
The author later mentions that he is “a little on the short side”. The quick measuring scale he illustrates will not apply to the majority of readers. As he himself states “Obviously everybody is different, so premeasure your own limbs”.
Most of this part are presented as “projects” with an estimated time. Most of the projects are survival ideas that will be familiar from other sources.
Many are nicely described, and include the occasional less‑well known idea, such as the fire‑plow. Wilder has a nice story about someone using a fire‑plow, but I have seldom seen mention of this device in other publications, although it is included in some versions of FM 21-76/3.05.70 and the SAS Survival Handbook.
There is a suggestion about carrying wire wool under the corkscrew. I wonder if contact with the corkscrew will encourage the wire wool to rust, which makes it even less useful for firelighting. It is not a particularly good tinder for non‑electric sources of ignition. Some Swiss Army Knives have an LED. Can steel wool be ignited with the batteries for these?
There are far more useful things to carry than steel wool.
When using the back of the saw or some other tool with a ferro‑rod, it is more effective to draw back the ferro‑rod while placing the “steel” on the tinder.
I liked the section on carving wooden fish hooks from branched twigs.
The author talks about “catch and release” sport fishing.
Some mention might have been made that the paracord net described (or any net made with knots) will damage fish and should only be used for emergency or sustenance fishing. Similarly, wooden gorges as hooks are very cruel, often illegal, and should only be used in genuine emergencies.
While fish trapping with a bottle is mentioned, there is no mention of trot‑lines, which are likely to be more efficient than active fishing in an emergency.
There is a useful section on how a Swiss Army Knife may be useful for firearm maintenance and cleaning.
I also liked the tip on making a squirt bottle for cleaning out wounds. Yet another use for the sometimes maligned reamer! A bottle with a drinking nipple can probably be used the same way.
“There is a lot of wasted space in a vehicle, and I urge people to use it.” Good advice, although I would stress having something like a rain poncho, duct tape, vehicle tools and a sleeping bag or poncho‑liner.
Imagine attempting to repair your vehicle in very bad weather. It will help to have a means to keep the rain or snow off what you are working on.
In the “Urban” section, the author describes getting locked in a washroom cubicle. Similar happened to me in the toilets of a very famous museum. Like the author, I used my Swiss Army Knife to dismantle the lock and free myself.
Summary
In summary, I liked both of these books. Each is worth a read. I was lucky in that I was able to read both of them together.
There is a good possibility that when you really need a tool, your EDC Swiss Army Knife may be the only tool available. These books provide a nice reminder that you are better equipped than you might fear.
I had originally planned to make “Knives You Need” a two‑part series.
I have now had second thoughts.
The second part was going to address the topic of field knives. Much of it would have repeated ground already covered in other previous articles.
Instead, I have decided to take a slightly different angle and have decided to break this topic into smaller, bite‑sized pieces.
Many of you reading this may have spent good money getting yourself a survival knife. Good tools are important, you will get no argument from me on this point.
However, unless you spend all of your time in the great outdoors, the odds are that when you really need a tool, that survival knife will be back at home or in your car rather than on your person.
What is more, the tool you actually may need may not actually be a knife.
If you are willing to spend hundreds of dollars on a survival knife, is it not sensible to invest a little in the tools you are most likely to carry with you every day?
It is no secret I am a big Swiss Army Knife (SAK) fan.
Multi-pliers and lock knives will be covered at a later date.
Critics of the Swiss Army Knife point out that the blades lack a locking mechanism and potentially may close on the fingers of the user.
In practice, I have seldom had this happen. Perhaps penknife users are more cautious due to the lack of locking mechanism?
Mechanisms fail, so a lockknife that is mistakenly used like a fixed blade may be a greater potential risk.
There are several websites that give advice on safely handling and using penknives. Many of these are written for scouts, but many older users would probably benefit from putting these ideas into practice.
I recently read of someone who did have a blade close on them. They accidentally hit the back of the blade against a nearby wall.
This might have been avoided if the user had taken the precaution of extending an arm and checking for clearance around themselves before starting at task.
This is a prudent procedure for any tool use.
If using a long tool like an axe, hold it at full extension and check all around you. Do not forget to check for obstructions above and below you too.
The Penknife Grip
When using a folding knife, use what I call “the penknife grip”.
Your four fingertips are pressed against one scale. The opposite scale is held by your thumb and themar eminence. This keeps your precious digits out of the way of the main blades. This is the way to hold your penknife when opening tools.
When you need to close a tool, hold the knife in the same way and place the palm of your other hand on the back of the open tool. Calmly and smoothly fold your hands together to close the tool.
Many actions can be performed with your knife held in the penknife grip, keeping you safe should a tool unexpectedly close.
Some tasks will require a grip with your fingers around the knife body. Ensure a solid object, such as what you are working on, obstructs the tool from closing and that any pressure is applied in the correct direction.
Never use force to compensate for a blunt tool!
Never cut towards a body part, including your own. This simple and sensible precaution is often neglected in Youtube videos!
Right Tool for the Job
The risk of injury may be reduced by using the right tool for a job.
The long knife blade and sawblades probably have the greatest potential for causing injury.
If you need to cut something, the short blade or the scissors may be more appropriate.
If you need to bore a hole, use the shorter blade or the reamer.
If you need to pry, use the can- or bottle-openers, or better still use a more appropriate tool that is not your penknife.
In the pouch I carry my penknife in, I also carry an eight centimetre-long flat pocket pry bar.
Classic SD
On my keyring, I have a 58mm Classic SD. It is handy for trimming my nails or other minor jobs that it is not worth getting the main Swiss Army Knife out for.
The Classic was donated by the lost property box. It originally had green cracked scales and was missing its tweezers.
A few years back, I treated myself to a new toothpick and tweezers, which had recently become available in green.
Recently, it occurred to me how shabby the cracked scales looked. I would need something that matched the green of the toothpick and tweezers.
I found a set of replacements at a tolerable price. What was more, the new scales were in luminous green.
Classic SD with luminous scales. Note whistle, baby can-opener and Photon-light also on keyring. The safety pin is attached directly to the Classic SD.
The Classic has a small blade, a pair of scissors and a nail file. The tip of the nail file of the SD model is designed to act as a screwdriver. The screwdriver tip is still good for cleaning nails.
A friend showed me the 58mm Rambler, which has all the blades of the Classic SD plus an interesting combination tool with a cap‑lifter, magnetic Phillips screwdriver and wire‑stripper/bender as well. I might consider one of these if I ever need to replace my Classic SD.
The Manager is apparently a Rambler that replaces the toothpick with a retractable pen. The Midnight Manager is a Manager that replaces the tweezers with and LED..
Incidentally, SAK with Alox scales generally do not have tweezers and toothpick slots. I would recommend only considering models that have these useful tools.
When it comes to “full-sized” (91mm) Swiss Army Knives, Victorinox currently offers 28 different models.
For general use, survival, emergencies or EDC, I would suggest one of the following models:
Spartan
As one might expect from the name, the Spartan is the most basic model of the 91mm Swiss Army Knives. Apparently it remains one of their best sellers.
It is a two‑layer knife, so you get a large and small knife blade, plus the can‑opener and the bottle‑opener. On the back is the reamer and the corkscrew.
Knife blades are quoted as 58 mm and 36 mm in length, with a hardness of RC 56. My own measurement gives a cutting edge of around 60 mm, with the distance from tip to knife body being greater. A 91mm Swiss Army Knife complies with the 3 inch/76 mm blade length restrictions some areas impose. This figure was probably chosen so that SAKs were exempt!
The applications for the knife blades are fairly obvious. Quite large pieces of wood may be split or removed by using techniques such as batoning.
The knife blades are sharpened at an angle of 20 degrees.
The X-notch is an alternative to the square or log-cabin notch. It may be created by saw cuts or batoning a knife blade
Both the can-opener and the bottle-opener have applications that may not be immediately obvious.
Bottle‑Opener
The notch on the bottle‑opener/cap‑lifter works together with the cutting blade to serve as a wire-stripper. The notch may also be used as a wire‑bender or nail‑puller. It may be used as a striker for small diameter ferro-rods.
Various other parts of the bottle‑ and can‑opener or the keyring eyelet may be utilized bending wires or similar materials.
The tip of the bottle‑opener is a large (6 mm) slot screwdriver. This will fit in a socket heads adapter should you need another type of screw head. The screwdriver tip may also be used as a light prying tool.
Can‑Opener
The tip of the can‑opener is a small (3 mm) slot screwdriver. What is not often appreciated is that this part is also intended to work with Phillips screws too. The tip may also be used for light prying, such as opening stubborn pistachio nuts.
I sometimes use the screwdriver tips as measuring gauges to estimate if something is 3 or 6 mm .
The hook part of the can opener may also be used to cut tape on boxes. Felix Immler has a video on how to turn this part into a more efficient hooked cutting tool.
This can-opener may also be used as an orange peeler or a billy lifter.
One of my favourite uses for this tool is that it can be used to carry a 5.7 mm magnet. The magnet is useful for picking up or holding secure small screws, or magnetizing a pin, tweezers, safety pin or needle for navigation.
Check to see if the pin in your penknife scales is actually magnetic.
Corkscrew
My main use for the corkscrew is to carry the 1.5 mm mini‑screwdriver. The mini‑screwdriver is an essential for anyone who wears spectacles or even sunglasses. Not all SAK come with the mini‑screwdriver. I very much recommend acquiring one.
Not surprisingly, all the SAKs I recommend have corkscrews so you can carry a mini‑screwdriver.
The mini‑screwdriver may be used as a tiny prying tool to pop the back off a watch and to remove the battery. It may be used to drive out small pins, and may be used this way when replacing the spring of the SAK scissors.
Imaginative other uses for the corkscrew include bending wire, untying knots, suspension point from cord, use as a drawing compass, rawplug retriever and as a parcel carrier for penknives that lack the multi‑purpose hook.
Cotton wool may be wrapped around the corkscrew to serve as a source of tinder, or it may be used to carry a supply of fishing line.
There are other alternate tools designed to fit in the corkscrew, including the Fireant, a tiny ferro‑rod. Larger diameter ferro‑rods may be cut down to fit within the corkscrew.
I have glasses, so carry the mini‑screwdriver.
Note that the Spartan, Climber, Camper and Huntsman have an equivalent that replaces the corkscrew with a Phillips screwdriver. These the Tinker, Super Tinker, Hiker and Fieldmaster.
Trivia: MacGyver did not drink, and many of the penknife models he used in the series lacked a corkscrew.
Reamer
The reamer is another very versatile tool. It acts as an awl, a scraper, a punch, a seam‑ripper, wire‑stripper, wire‑bender and a threading tool.
The reamer is very useful for creating pilot holes for a drill bit or gimlet. It may be used to clean up or bevel a hole you have bored.
A bit of trivia: when your reamer needs resharpening, it should be sharpened at 48 degrees.
Compact and Climber
A friend of mine likes his Compact Swiss Army Knife. Unlike many Swiss Army Knives with only a few layers, the Compact includes the pen and mini‑screwdriver.
The Compact is a two‑layer knife like the Spartan but replaces the small blade with the scissors, and the reamer with the multi‑purpose hook. Instead of the cap‑lifter and can‑opener, there is a single “combo‑tool” that serves as a 6 mm screwdriver, can‑opener, cap‑lifter, wire‑stripper, emergency Phillips screwdriver and wire‑bender.
Personally, I think the reamer is a “must‑have”.
The Climber is a three‑layer version of the Spartan, adding the hook and scissors and retaining the reamer and small blade. The Camper is a Climber replacing the scissors and hook with a wood saw.
If I had to make a choice, I would choose the scissors over the wood saw.
Scissors
Keeping your toenails trimmed is an important part of looking after your feet (and socks). The Swiss Army scissors are excellent for such applications. Better than many purpose‑designed items!
The scissors are also surprisingly robust, being quite capable of cutting through soda cans and tin can walls to construct various items.
The scissors are probably the Swiss Army tool I have used the most, and I suspect I am not alone in that. I regard the scissors as a must‑have feature on a Swiss Army Knife.
Multi‑Purpose Hook
If I recall correctly, the multi‑purpose hook was once called the “parcel hook”, being intended to hook though the string of a heavy parcel or bundle of firewood and let you use your penknife as a handle.
The hook is rated for 90 kilos/200 lbs of load!
The hook is often underappreciated, since there are many other applications for this item. These include being used to untie a stubborn knot, twisting materials to make natural cordage or an eyelet in wire, lifting hot billies or their lids, pulling stuck zippers, as a pen holder, retrieving tent pegs, and tightening lacings.
Some hooks have a nail-filing surface on the back.
Check out some of the videos on‑line for more applications.
There is even a modification to turn the hook into a groove carving tool. Worth considering if your penknife is a dedicated whittling tool. Putting a cutting edge on your hook may make it less effective at some of its other applications.
Trivia: The hook and scissors will be mounted on the same layer. If your knife has one tool, it will have the other too.
Huntsman
The Huntsman is another of Victorinox’s best sellers.
Effectively, it is the Climber with a woodsaw blade to create a four‑layer model.
A Huntsman will cost approximately twice what you might pay for a Spartan. Prices vary a lot, however, so shop around!
For “bushcraft” and “woodcraft” use, the Huntsman is a really good choice, having both the scissors and a wood saw. A saw is a handy thing in the garden too!
Wood Saw
Many traps and other items you may wish to construct may require accurately cut parts.
The wood saw is also useful for scraping bark off, creating sawdust or shavings for tinder, descaling fish, and may be used as a striker for a ferro‑rod.
Trivia: The wood saw is one of the few commonly used SAK tools that lacks a nail‑nick
Oddly, the original scales of my Ranger have “Camping” and a tent logo. Several models of SAK other than the Camper have this decoration.
The Camper is the Climber with the wood saw in place of the scissors. I regard the scissors as a higher priority, hence I recommend the Climber or Compact in preference to the Camper.
The Ranger is the Huntsman with the addition of the metal saw/file. It also has a chisel blade and a 2.5 mm fine screwdriver on the back.
The chisel is useful when forming notches in wood, and may be used as a plane/scraper.
A Ranger will cost approximately two and a half times what you might pay for a Spartan. As I have already said, prices vary a lot, so shop around!
Metal‑Saw/File
I once had to cut down the bolts on a rucksack frame since they were digging into my back, so I like having the metal saw/file.
The metal saw is better than the wood saw for cutting some plastics and for some wood‑cutting tasks.
It is also a good striker for a ferro-rod. Keep the saw still and pull the rod across the back.
The file may be used sharpening improvised fishing hooks.
The tip of the metal saw may be used as a Phillips screwdriver
Since the seven‑layer Champion was discontinued, the Ranger is as big a Swiss Army Knife as I care to consider carrying. I don't really want something over three centimetres thick!
A sewing needle, wrapped in invisible thread, has been placed under the metal saw.
The tweezers have been modified to be pointed. The tweezers with my Classic SD are unmodified, so between the two knives I have both a pointed and a standard configuration set of tweezers.
A small hole has been melted in the toothpick so that it may serve as a blunt needle to thread cordage such as dental floss.
Old Ranger with new luminous scales. Note magnet carried in can-opener.
New Scales!
I liked the new scales on my Classic SD so much, I went ahead and brought a matching set for my Ranger. I kid myself this will make it less likely to lose in Autumn.
Check out the video on how to use warm water to remove the old scales without damage.
Generally, I like my kit “low-key”. The SAK is an exception, since it is not really a tactical nor defensive item. It is, however, valuable in both replacement cost and in utility as a resource. Thus I like that the new scales make it easier to see and hopefully less likely to lose.
Check out this modification, however, since it may be applicable to other knives and tools. So might this idea!
The new scales are “plus” scales, so have additional carrying places for a pin and an SAK pen. I drilled another well for a second pin. I later discovered the pins I have are not magnetic, so I replaced the first pin with a small, unthreaded needle that is magnetic.
As well as being luminous, the scales have some nice texturing for improved grip.
The larger 91mm scales were a bit harder to fit snugly compared to the 58mm for the Classsic SD. I had to use a vice.
Do not forget to pad the jaws of the vice so you do not damage your new scales!
Slots for the scale tools were very snug for both sizes of scale, making the tools difficult to remove. I used a circular needle file to create a small scallop underneath which solved the problem. Overdid it a little on the toothpick for the Ranger , but adding some “White Tack” to the slot solved that problem.
The Ranger has been fitted with a loop of beige bootlace about 14 cm long. So too has my mini‑Leatherman Squirt P4.
Both tools ride in a mobile phone belt case with cut‑out bottom corners.
The loop of cord is passed down through a corner and then the tool passes through the loop to form a lark’s head knot. Even if the top of the pouch pops open, the two tools cannot be lost.
The loop is also large enough to pass around my wrist or hook my thumb through for added security when using the tool. The safety pin may be used as a pin or clip to secure the tool to clothing or D‑rings.
I have also to fitted a pocket clip to the Ranger, giving me another option when I need my hands free.
The pouch mentioned above is on my trouser belt. If I am wearing trousers, I have my Swiss Army Knife and mini‑Leatherman with me. I will also have my keys, so will have my Classic SD available too. The belt pouch also holds the aforementioned pocket pry bar and a diamond‑impregnated metal sharpening card.
The few jobs the Ranger is not suited for, the mini‑Leatherman or pry bar can usually handle.
If this collection of tools cannot handle a job, they may often be capable of making something that can.
The tools form a component of the EDC kit I have distributed across my keyring, trouser pockets and compact pouches on my trouser belt.
Summary
The Swiss Army Knife is the tool I am most likely to have with me when I need a tool. It is worth spending a bit of money to get one you are happy with.
That said, the web currently lists the Victorinox Ranger as $75, with the lesser bladed models at correspondingly lower prices.
Given the very high quality of Victorinox knives, that is a pretty reasonable price compared to the prices of some other folding and fixed blade knives.
He managed to set off the alarm he was servicing, and was unable to get it to stop.
He had forgotten to bring the handle for his screwdriver bits.
Such farces are actually not that uncommon at this institution.
As the minutes rolled by and I sat there in the noise, it occurred to me I had some ear plugs on me. Actually the noise was not too bad, and using hearing protection to ignore an emergency alarm is probably setting a bad example!
Eventually the alarm was silenced by using the end of the nail file on my Swiss Army Classic. I have better screwdrivers on my tools, but the Classic on my keyring was most readily to hand.
The engineer was also having trouble with his spectacles. The rubber loops on the retaining cord he was using kept slipping off, and he was cursing the well known website he had brought them from.
All this reminded me of a topic I was thinking about when I was writing about ear plugs.
Ear plugs are a simple thing that can make all the difference if you have them with you.
Obviously, my penknives may be included in this.
Tweezers
Tweezers are another item I thought of, possibly because at the time I had been reviewing how to deal with biting ticks.
I carry a Swiss Army Ranger and a Classic, and each has a pair of tweezers slotted into a grip panel.
One pair has been ground to a point, as shown in this video.
If, for some bizarre reason, you do not carry a Swiss Army Knife (!), the tweezers may be brought separately.
So small and so cheap there is not really any good reason not to have a pair. Your main problem may be finding a good place to carry them so you can find them when needed!
Don't Forget Your Toothbrush
Personally, I do not have a toothbrush in my EDC. If I was heading to the wilds, I might rethink this.
If your lifestyle often finds you sleeping at someone else's house, platonically or otherwise, you may find it handy to have a toothbrush with you.
There are guards you may fit over the bristles, and two-part brushes, some of which have room for a tiny tube of paste.
Glasses Save Eyes!
The next “simple thing” did not immediately occur to me since I wear spectacles, and mine have photochromic lenses.
My girlfriend mentioned a Christmas she spent in Scotland. The snow made everything so bright she wore sunglasses whenever outside.
If you do not wear photochromic glasses, a pair of sunglasses is a worthy addition to your EDC or bug-out bag.
Glasses also protect your eyes from branches when moving through the woods, and other threats. That, incidentally, is one of the reasons I do not switch to contacts.
My glasses have saved my eyes from injury several times.
Spectacles or sunglasses are important and useful. When climbing, biking or during other activities there is an increased risk that you and your lenses may part company.
Which brings us back to the engineer and his malfunctioning retention cord.
Retaining Glasses
My left hip pocket contains a lighter, bandana and a collection of cordage.
Included in the latter is a retention cord I may use with my spectacles.
I literally found this lying in the street, the irony that something to prevent loss was lost not lost on me.
I have not had cause to use this retention cord yet, but it seems well suited for purpose.
The cord is tubular and fits over the arms of my spectacles, giving a long contact area. A sliding piece of plastic allows the cord to be drawn snug against the back of the head.
An effective retaining cord is a prudent thing to carry with you if you wear glasses or have sunglasses, even if, like me, you only fit it when the chance or consequence of losing your glasses is serious.
Suppose you do not have a retaining cord, or have lost it.
If you have been visiting this blog, you will probably have some paracord or other cordage available. A draw cord from your anorak could be used.
Here are two suggestions on how to improvise a retention cord for your glasses:
Both of these methods use slip knots to attach the cord to the arms.
One method uses a double overhand to form the slip knot, the other uses an extra couple of turns to form the overhand knot portion.
The video uses a double fisherman's knot to tighten and loosen the cord. A single fisherman's knot would be easier to adjust when needed. Perhaps he wanted all the knotted sections to match?
A slip bend would be a good knot for this application. This could be made with double overhands if desired.
The “cobra knot” used in the Instructables' method is actually multiple overhands tied in the centre of a second piece of cord. This would have been clearer if a different coloured piece of cord was used for demonstrating this part.
The simplest way to adjust a retaining cord is probably to tie a lapped overhand loop in the doubled cord. This is probably one of the few knots that may be easily adjusted when your hands are behind your head.
The other methods may be more secure, however.
All this talk of knots brings me to my final topic.
I have rewritten Scrapboard Knots, adding more content, more knots and tweaking the format to use less paper.
All of the knots mentioned in this blog may be learnt from this booklet.
Scrapboard Knots is free, but donations and tips are welcome, and much needed at the moment.
A friend of mine asked me for suggestions for the contents of a small repair/utility kit to place in a locker at his office. In his own words, he wants to be “the handy guy”.
Every time I have moved office, I have virtuously left my tool collection for my successor, (not that I had much choice in the matter last time!) Each time I have regretted this, as over the next few months I have needed tools I no longer have.
What to have in such a kit will depend on the office, and the sort of equipment likely to be encountered.
I once returned to my office to find a pair of colleagues attempting to help someone remove a finger-ring. I quickly confiscated the hacksaw(!) and demonstrated that a needle-file was the correct tool for the job.
A dearly missed friend of mine was a craftsman of the old school. He brought the best tools he could and they served him well for his entire lifetime. Good job he was cremated, since he would turn in his grave at my next suggestion!
Bear in mind the likely frequency of use of your office tool kit. For items that are only likely to be used occasionally, it may be warranted to acquire some of these items from “budget” sources.
Images are for illustration only! No recommendation of particular brands or models should be inferred.
Office Folders
My starting point for an office tool kit would be to find a penknife and/or multi-tool.
If you are a regular visitor to these pages, chances are you already carry a number of useful items as part of your EDC.
It is also possible that you have a couple of older items that you have replaced with something better and more suited to your needs. You may have brought yourself a full-sized multi-tool, only to decide it is too heavy for constant carry and your needs are better served by something such as a Swiss Army knife and a mini-Leatherman Squirt.
In my kitchen drawer I have a couple of penknives donated from lost property. One is large and bulky and includes a set of pliers. Both penknives hang on a hook in the drawer and are useful for tasks such as tightening cooking pot handles.
If you have a surplus penknife and/or multi-tool, make this the starting point of your office tool kit.
Screwing in the Office
The next addition would be some “proper” screwdrivers.
There are some places that the screwdrivers on a penknife or multi-tool cannot reach, or are too big for. If you have to remove a number of screws, or they are hard to remove, conventionally handled screwdrivers may be more comfortable and effective.
Items such as phones or laptops tend to use quite small screws. You may encounter cross/Phillips/posidriv or Torx-headed screws.
Have a set of several small screwdrivers of approximately 3 to 5mm width for the flat heads, and the other types of similar size, such as PH/PZ 0 to 2.
Some items have very small screws! A set of precision/“jeweller’s” screwdrivers is worth having. This will also make you popular with spectacles wearers.
As an aside, the very small screwdriver that fits in the corkscrew of a Swiss Army knife is worth acquiring for your EDC. I once saw someone’s glasses fall to bits while they were talking to me in a pub. I repaired them there on the spot.
You should also have at least one fairly hefty large slot screwdriver.
Recently an important keycard was left in a cabinet and the key-holder was absent with Corvid. I was told to get into the desk by any means possible. Unable to pick it with the tools I had, I used a large screwdriver as a wedge and prybar and opened the drawer with negligible damage.
Having a crowbar at work might raise eyebrows. A large screwdriver or two is more acceptable and in many respects more versatile.
Pinching in the Office
Next I would add a set of pliers. By “set” I mean a kit containing several pairs of different forms, for example fine, long-nose, curved, broad and side-cutters.
These are for all the jobs the pliers on a penknife or multitool are not ideal for.
Insulated handles are nice to have, although you should not be working on anything with live electricity.
A number of times I have been called on to repair colleagues’ jewellery.
I have a nice little set of five tools, each about four to five inches long. I picked these up in a model-railway shop.
These are backed up by a pair of heavier duty long-nose and standard pliers of about six to seven inches long.
○ Precision screwdrivers and fine pliers would be among the first tools I acquire for an office tool kit.
Nuts Loose in the Office
It is probably not your job to fix the sink. Even if you do actually know what you are doing, there are numerous good reasons why this should be left to someone paid to do the job.
You may, however, come across loose nuts on furniture in an office environment.
Your tool kit should have a set of Mole grips or an adjustable wrench for such contingencies.
Cuts in the Workplace
In this day and age, the sight of a penknife blade may cause some of your colleagues to soil their underwear.
A Stanley knife/box-cutter may be a more acceptable tool should you need to cut open packaging.
More assaults are probably committed with Stanley knives and box-cutters than penknives, but hoplophobia is not rational.
Tape It!
Final component of the basic kit would be a roll of duct tape and a roll of electrician’s insulating tape.
Additional Items
• Reorganizing is a popular distraction in offices. Will the desk fit? I am often asked if I have a tape-measure.
• Sometimes items using Allen screws are encountered, so a small set of Allen/hex keys might be handy.
There is a joke that Mole grips or duct tape are for things that move that shouldn’t, and that WD40 is for what won’t move but should!
• WD40 is handy for a number of things in the office. As well as being a lubricant, it can be used for cleaning.
• Modifying your office environment with a hammer will probably be frowned on. It may prove tempting next time the printer or photocopier plays up!
As a starting point for your office tool kit, you may have used a pre-made home kit, such as the one shown below, which includes a hammer. A claw hammer does make a useful substitute for a prybar.
• A magnifying glass may be useful for dealing with those tiny screws.
• A magnet is good for finding any screws you drop or keeping removed screws going astray.
• If working with small parts, tweezers may be handy. So too might a plastic “spudger”. You can probably carve the latter from the less-brittle examples of plastic cutlery.
• I am inclined to suggest a small flashlight might be a handy addition. My step-son will probably just point out that most people have phones with lights.
Whatever you decide upon, keep your tool kit under lock and key. Useful things like tools have a habit of getting borrowed and not returned.
Other Utility Items for the Office
My friend said tool/utility, so what else might he want in his locker? His EDC should cover most of his needs.
No idea about my friend’s current lifestyle. He may still enjoy a wild night out on the tiles. He might want a toothbrush, toothpaste, a razor and deodorant in his locker.
Female readers may wish to keep a supply of hygiene items.
Your place of work should have a stock of medical items, but you may maintain a supply of personal medication, and other items such as your preference in painkillers and anti-histamine, for example.
Spare clothing, such as clean underwear, warm hat, bandana, scarf, gloves, jumper and a poncho/rain-proof. A spare lighter and a space blanket is always prudent.
This is venturing into the topic of “get home” bags. That is a topic for another day.
Many years ago, I went to buy a coffee at the café at work. The usual staff were not there.
Another young lady had been sent there instead. She was struggling with trying to open up in an unfamiliar environment. She had brought her boyfriend with her, but he was not much use and had decided his best approach was to stand by looking gormless.
I waited patiently.
The lady got to the stage of installing the milk boxes in the dispenser. I was familiar with these from my own experience in temp jobs. They have a blind-ended plastic tube. The end of the tube must be cut off before the box can be used.
The poor girl was unable to locate where the usual staff had placed the scissors, or whatever else they used. Futility, she gamely hacked away at the tube with a blunt butter knife.
I took pity on her.
I produced my trusty Swiss Army Knife, unfolded a blade and offered it to her.
I will admit, at that point I was seduced by the chocolate bar display. I only caught what occurred out of the edge of my vision. It was over before I could intervene.
What happened was this:
The young lady had taken my knife and hooked the blade behind the tube. She had then pulled it towards her. She had assumed my knife was the same as the usual semi-blunt objects she had encountered in cafés. It wasn't.
The edge went through the plastic like it was not there. The girl recoiled a foot or so. Luckily the blade missed her.
“That is a sharp knife!” she exclaimed. She seemed oblivious to the fact that she had nearly just cut off one of her breasts.
I accepted back my knife. Silently, I vowed that in future I would not to lend my blades to other people.
I have been duly wary since that incident. When my girlfriend reaches for certain tools, I cannot help but warn: “Careful! That is sharp!”
She returns this with an eloquent look. Part of it says: “I know! I am not and idiot!” but I think there is also a smidgen of pride that says: “Of course it is, it was you who sharpened it!”.
Morals of this story: Do not assume a tool is blunt. Do not assume someone else knows how to use a tool safely. Never cut towards yourself.
The tools on a Swiss Army Knife sometimes end up performing tasks you never imagined!
A few months back I went to unlock my front door, only to have the entire barrel of the lock detach and come away with the key! The metal file/saw proved to be ideal for reaching to the back of the lock and turning the bolt.
My girlfriend’s son had asked me why I always carry my SAK. Exactly for times like the above!
The Early Years
For the first few years of my early adulthood I carried a Chinese-made version of a Swiss Army Knife. I vaguely recall there were actually two, although I do not recall why I had to replace the first. To be fair, these were quite nice knives, with a good assortment of tools. The only problem I actually recall is a time when the corkscrew straightened out as I attempted to open a bottle of wine.
Back in those days, they were all I could afford, and they served well.
Once I had some money, I invested in a genuine Victorinox Swiss Army Knife (aka SAK).
Victorinox Champion
The model I selected was called the “Champion”, not to be confused with the “SwissChamp” that had become available a few years previously.
The longer named Champion was less bulky than the Champ, lacking the pliers.
The seven-layer Champion was about the ideal maximum size for a SAK, and had a really useful selection of tools.
Sadly, my Champion was lost in an unfortunate chain of events that do not need to be told here. Even worse, the Champion had been discontinued, so I could not buy a replacement.
There was no ebay back then, so little chance of locating a second-hand one.
Rise of the Ranger
As a replacement of the Champion, I selected a Ranger model. The most obvious difference between the two was the Ranger lacked a magnifying glass, fish scaler and Phillips screwdriver:
• The Phillips screwdriver had proved useful at times.
• I don’t recall ever using the fish scaler/hook disgorger, at least not for its intended purpose.
• I didn’t make much used of the magnifier either, although now that I am older and more decrepit, I suspect it might prove more useful.
As an aside, the magnifying glass on the Champion was very cleverly thought out. Its focal length was the same as the magnifying glasses’ height. In other words, if you placed your knife on a map, the detail under the magnifying glass would be in focus. This may have been the case for other models that had the magnifying glass.
Since I wear glasses, an early addition I made to both the Champion and the later Ranger was to add the mini-screwdriver that fits into the corkscrew.
Originally this tool was only included with the SwissChamp. They were sold as spares, however, so I acquired one.
This has proved very useful over the years, often coming to the rescue of companions rather than myself. Half a lifetime ago I repaired the glasses of a grateful Swedish beauty in old Jerusalem.
Victorinox now offer three alternate tools, each with a different coloured end.
I have carried the Ranger for many decades now.
The lack of Phillips screwdriver is compensated for by the Leatherman Squirt mini-tool I also carry. If you are in the market for a medium-size (91mm) model SAK, the Ranger must be one of the best options.
The Huntsman model is a good choice, but I have often found uses for the file/metal saw of the Ranger.
Some interesting information on how to use the various tools, and some applications for them you may not have known.
My Ranger had a Phillips screwdriver all along and I never knew! I discovered that the tip of the can-opener is actually intended for use with Phillips screws as well as slot.
The tip of the file/metal saw can also be used on some Phillips or Pozidriv screws.
Adding a Pin to a SAK
The original reason I have been thinking about Swiss Army Knives recently is that I came across a blog post discussing the pin carried in the handle scales.
Below is a video on possible uses for “needles” [sic pins]. The channel has many other videos on various features of Swiss Army Knives.
Even before I watched the above video, I was thinking about adding a pin to my Ranger.
I own a number of very fine drill bits, so creating a channel for a pin would not be too difficult. I could probably add a pair.
I have lots of cheap pins. I decided to try and find the pins actually used, since they were probably better quality and the head looked a little wider.
A number of ebay vendors offered replacement pins for Swiss Army Knives.
The one I chose got my money since they offered another idea. Included with the five pins was a small magnet.
This magnet was sized to fit in the can-opener. With such a magnet, a pin could be magnetized as a compass needle.
The bits arrived this morning.
Fitting the Magnet and Pin
The 5.8mm magnet was a perfect fit for the can-opener.
The vendor included the advice that the tool next to the can-opener usually needs to be opened before closing the can-opener with the magnet stored in it.
If this is not so, the magnet tends to pull out of position, attracted by the neighboring steel.
Although stainless steel, the blades of a Swiss Army Knife are magnetic.
Finding a drill bit small enough for the pin was not a problem. Problem was most were too short to drill a channel as long as the pin.
The other problem was my Ranger has solid scales. It lacks the air-spaces found on some newer and alternate scales.
Drilling a channel deep enough and straight enough proved problematic, and inevitably the very fine drill curved and the channel exited on the inner side of scale. This actually proved to be fortuitous, allowing me to file a notch on the inner side for end of the pin to rest in.
I settled for adding just one pin for now.
Most of the alternate positions for a pin are obstructed by the rivets the scales snap on to.
My Ranger with pin added (blue arrow) and notches on scale (green arrows). If the balloon goes up, I am ready!
Other Modifications
Incidentally, the back scale of my Ranger has two additional non-standard features.
One is a chip, where an idiot friend used my knife as a bottle-opener without using the bottle-opener!
I could fix this damage, but it is a useful reminder to be more cautious of whom I trust.
More useful are a series of three notches. The second is five millimetres from the first, the third 57 mm for the first.
The first and third notch are used to draw a circle of 57 mm radius. The first and second are used to mark the circumference in five millimetre increments. Each millimetre of the circumference closely approximates one degree. Such a compass face can be used with various improvised modes of navigation.
Take about a metre of invisible thread and pass one end through the eye of a needle. Tie the ends together and then wrap the thread around the needle.
Push the threade-wrapped needle down beneath the saw blade. It should be snug enough that it will not drop out if you invert the knife with the saw open.
I used the metal saw rather than the woodsaw, since this is likely to see less use.
Today, as I was coming into work, I was thinking about “magic number seven”.
In short, this is an observation that the average number of related “data chunks” a person can recall is seven, plus or minus two.
This is usually specified as for short term memory, but may be relevant to longer term memorization of lists too.
A friend of mine is working on a language-related project. It seemed to me that if you must have lists of categories or affixes, then breaking them up into groupings of seven or less might be a good approach.
As it is wont to do, my mind drifted and I began to think about the ninja “six tools of travelling”.
I know six is not seven, but bear with me a moment.
I remember this list by recalling that three things on it are “flexible”: hat, rope, “towel”; and that three are not: medicine, writing kit and fire tube.
As I point out in my earlier article, this list does not include a knife, since telling a ninja or any other sensible person of that era to carry one was probably redundant. If we add knife/tools to the list it becomes seven.
OK, I thought, does what I have on me right now meet the criteria of the six/seven tools of travelling/everyday carry (EDC)?
Firstly, I have a hat. It’s cold out and my head has little remaining natural insulation. If it was sunny out and I was planning to spend any time outside I would probably have a hat of a different design.
Rope, or cordage at least. I have a spare shoelace tucked into the bottom of a pocket. I also have the dental floss in my pocket kit which can be used for a variety of purposes.
“Towel”. The item the ninja regarded as a towel (tenugui) was a relatively thin, multipurpose item. I have a bandanna in my pocket which can serve similar purposes, including as an emergency hat.
Medicine. My pocket kit contains plasters, painkillers and disinfectant wipes.
Writing kit. I have a pencil. I can also write things down on my phone.
Fire. No ninja tube of smouldering charcloth, but I do carry a source of fire. A lighter rides in the same pocket as the bandana and shoelace. A short piece of duct tape wrapped around it may be used for repairs or for tinder. A bag of tissues in another pocket may also be used for firelighting.
Knife. I carry a Swiss Army knife and a mini-Leatherman squirt and have a Swiss Army Classic SD mini-knife on my key ring.
These seven tools do not just represent concrete objects.
They also represent broader, more generic categories.
For example, the hat also represents shelter, so includes a coat suited to the weather, scarf and gloves should they be needed, and the survival blanket I carry in my pocket pouch.
A silver survival blanket is a far better thing to have available than a little tin full of gizmos and gadgets!
The hat also is a reminder to accessorise! Hats, scarves, gloves, bandannas and similar can make the difference between comfort and catastrophe.
The writing kit also represents communication, so includes my phone and the USB drive I carry.
In addition to the pencil and chalk in my pocket kit, I have a couple of pens (one is part of my Swiss Army Knife) and a Sharpie. The chalk or the Sharpie may be used to mark walls, tree trunks etc.
Communication can include signalling, which includes my phone and the whistle and photon light on my keychain. Illumination can be taken as a subset of signalling. I have a larger flashlight in my thigh pocket, and the phone has a flashlight mode.
The knife also represents tools in the narrower sense, so includes my mini-prybar, diamond sharpening card and the P38-style can opener on the keychain.
The knife also represents the requirement for self-defence, where such is permitted.
The fire icon I have used above also represents knowledge. EDC items are of little use unless one knows how to best use them. Using cordage requires knowing some basic knots, for example.
As can be seen, the “Seven Tools of EDC” are a good starting point for planning an EDC or larger kit.
There are other categories, of course.
Money is always useful and documentation may be needed.
I carry tape, pins, paperclips and other items that might be used for repairs. These might be considered a subset of the knife/tools category. I have added a needle and a metre of invisible thread. This is bound to the side of my pencil along with a wrapping of electrical tape. The needle may be magnetized using the magnet with my Swiss Army Knife.
None of the seven categories really covers navigation, but I do carry a Suunto clipper compass which has proved to be surprisingly useful in town.
On the next level up, food and water, or the means to procure and prepare them should be addressed. At the EDC level this is addressed by the money and credit card. My pocket pouch has a long piece of braided fishing line and a score of small hooks, which may be used for other purposes.
If you live in a very hot, dry environment carrying a supply of water on your person is prudent.
