My series of articles on self-defence with an umbrella, cane or similar objects have now been combined into a single document.
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Umbrella Fighting in PDF
Category: Phillosoph
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Sun-Compass
Yesterday’s topic logically brings me onto today’s, and another ancient but useful navigation device.
If you have even just glanced through a survival manual, you will most likely have seen the shadow-stick method.
Shadow-Stick
I have previously described this in the context of navigating by the moon. Like the sun, the moon and stars also rise in the east and set in the west.
The more usual context for the shadow-stick is using the sun.
The method is simple.
Place a stick or similar object in the ground so that it casts a shadow. Mark the end of the shadow.
Wait for at least twenty minutes.
The tip of the shadow will have moved. Mark this new position. The first marker will be west of the second.
Draw a line between the two markers, then run a line perpendicular to this and back towards the base of your stick (gnomon).
This second line will be true north-south. The greater the distance/longer the time between marker placement, the more accurate will be your determination of north-south.
Logically, we will get a more accurate estimate if we take several hours and place a number of markers.
If we do this we will observe that the shadow is longest in the morning and evening, and shortest when the sun is directly overhead (solar noon).
The arc plotted on the ground will be flattened rather than constant, unlike some illustrations of this method!
When the shadow is at its shortest, it is on the north-south line, and the time will be local midday. The shadow will be shortest at local apparent noon (LAN)/solar noon, which is midway between sun-up and sun-down, so may differ from 1200 hrs.
As well as determining distance, you have also made yourself a crude sundial. This can be useful in determining true local time.
Some countries on the same longitude use different times. China spans several time zones but uses one official time for the whole country!
The principle is simple enough, but it can get confusing which end of the north-south line is north.
In the northern hemisphere the sun (or moon) rises in the east and travels west, passing through the south. In the southern hemisphere it goes through the north.
- In the northern hemisphere the shadow always points in a northerly direction. At midday the shadow will point due north.
- In the southern hemisphere the shadow always points in a southerly direction. At midday the shadow will point due south.
Memorize the above, and solar navigation becomes much less confusing.
In the movies, air-crash survivors usually undertake an epic journey back to safety.
In the real world, your prudent strategy is to stay near the crash site if practical.
Setting up a shadow stick is a practical way to spend the time, and establishing the bearings of visible landmarks may be useful later on.
Sun Compass
Suppose, for whatever reason, you need to travel. This decision should never be made lightly.
Thanks to your shadow-stick, you know what bearing you are heading out on, and that of some of the local features.
But we cannot take our compass/sundial with us!
With a few modifications, we can make a portable variant.
If you have ever read about the early days of the SAS or of the Long Range Desert Group (LRDG), you will most probably have encountered to references to sun-compasses on their vehicles.
In those days, trying to use a magnetic compass while riding in a large lump of steel was problematic. The solution was the sun-compass.
Descriptions of how the sun-compass was used used to be hard to find. Thankfully, this is changing.
The sun-compass is an ancient device, and was used by the Vikings, among others.
A version was also used by some Apollo missions on the moon.
As you can see, some sun-compasses are very complicated or sophisticated, so not really something you can improvise.
I am going to describe a less accurate variant that can be easily constructed.
In the previous blog, I described how a circle of 57 mm radius had a circumference of c.360 mm. (The person who taught me this trick had 5 mm and 57 mm marked on the zipper of her jacket. I notched my penknife handle).
Create such a circle on a piece of paper, bark, back of a notebook, etc.
An alternate name for a sun-compass is “shadow board”, which reminds us it can be made with a piece of plank or other flat material.
A folded piece of paper will help us mark off the 45, 90 and even 22.5 degree points.
Each 1.5 cm of the circumference is 15 degrees.
The radius of a circle can be measured twelve times along its edge using a drawing compass, or an improvisation of one.
By folding the marked points together the circle can be divided further into 24 parts, or the drawing compass can be used further.
A nail or pin can be used as the gnomon, but a sliver of wood is more likely. In fact, you do not have to mount the gnomon, just place a shadow-casting object in the centre of the circle whenever you take a reading.
All we have to do now is mark off the circle. This will be a 24 hour clockface so mark off every 15 degrees with an hour.
Remember that the shadow will point due north at solar noon in the northern hemisphere, so mark 1200 hrs as North/0 degrees (In the south, 1200 will be South/180).
Fill in the rest of the face. You might get something that looks like this:
Using this simple sun-compass is simple.
Hold it level and rotate it until the gnomon shadow is over the current time. If the clocks are adjusted for daylight saving/BST/local solar noon or similar you will have to account for this.
Remember, “spring forward, fall back”, so the shadow will be on the north-south line at 1300 hrs, not 1200, so you will have to subtract an hour from local time to get the time to read on the dial.
Once you have your sun-compass orientated, use the dial to find the bearing you want. Your portable sun-compass should agree with your base-camp shadow stick.
Pick out a landmark, put away your sun-compass and walk towards the landmark.
An alternate method is to do the same as you did with a shadow-stick. Erect a little gnomon on a board or sheet of paper and plot the tip of the shadow over the course of a day.
Draw a line from the base of the gnomon across the curve where the curve is at its closest to the base.
To use this version, you do not need to know the time.
Rotate the sun-compass until the tip of the shadow meets the curve. The line you drew will point north (or south if you made your sun-compass in the southern hemisphere).
For this method, you must use the same height gnomon for each reading, so mount this permanently.
The Ottomani version is suspended from three or four points by cord to ensure that it is level.
You may have realized that if you know the bearing of something, your sun-compass can be used as a crude sundial.
Watch Method
Related to the methods described above is using a watch directly to navigate by the sun.
Remember to adjust time for BST/DST. Substitute “1 mark” for “12 mark” in the above instructions.
If your watch is digital, or you are using your phone clock, use your imagination.
If you become confused as to which end of the north-south (N-S) line is north, check the local shadows.
Hold a blade of grass over the watch-face and see if it casts a shadow. The one direction a shadow cannot point in the north is south.
Useful to recall is “the north gets up around 3 o'clock, goes to bed around 9”.
In other words, the north end of the N-S line will be in the small numbers in the morning, the higher numbers in the afternoon. (In the southern hemisphere replace the word north with south and the motto still works.)
Remember, sometimes shadows are still visible even when you cannot see the sun directly.
The basic watch method is easy to remember: midpoint between “12 (/1)” and the hour hand.
The specifics for each hemisphere can be difficult to remember.
It may help to think that “N” for north-hemisphere looks like a “H” for “hour-hand” and that this should be pointed at the sun. A cast shadow will point in the opposite direction to the hour hand.
For the southern-hemisphere, the 2 in “12” looks a little like an “S” so the 12 should be pointed at the sun. A cast shadow should point towards “6”.
Hopefully that will help you use this method.
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Finding Latitude
Currently I am reading “The Time Traveller’s Guide to Medieval England”, which is very interesting. An astrolabe is listed among the possessions of at least one wealthy merchant. This got me thinking about similar devices.
Decades ago I watched a program on someone who had spend several weeks, possibly months, in a life-raft on the open sea.
Using three pencils and elastic bands he improvised a sextant and used it to measure the angle of the Pole star.
Since the angle of the Pole star is equal to the latitude of the observer, he was able to sail his raft into the sea lanes, where his chance of encountering another vessel and rescue were greatest.
Here is a nice image of how such a device works. Other materials such as sticks and string could be used. This device is easily improved with a plumb-line.
In the southern hemisphere you can measure the angle of the Coal Sack nebula.
Similar devices date back many centuries. If you have some cord, a kamal would be easy to improvise. Note that one example below is made from a piece of cardboard.
A knot on the cord is held between the teeth and the cord pulled taunt. The bottom edge of the sight is aligned with the horizon, and the top compared with the Pole star. Different knots on the cord represented different latitudes.
For example, if you wanted to sail from Alexandra to Crete you would sail north, checking your kamal using the knot corresponding to 35 degrees. Perhaps you tied that knot when you sighted Polaris another time you were on Crete. When the Pole star aligns with the top of your sight you will know it is time to start sailing west.
The cross-staff worked the same way as the kamal, as the illustrations show. It was better suited to higher latitudes.
There were problems with using such a device to measure the angle of the sun, so the backstaff developed, a step towards the prisms and mirrors of the modern sextant.
A quadrant is relatively easy to make. A number of websites show the version in the first photo. The problem with this variant is that you have to remember to subtract 90 from your reading.
It is NOT a sextant!
Easier is to use half of a typical semi-circular protractor, mount the protractor with the straight edge vertical, or mark out a piece of card or paper.
When improvising navigational devices a useful thing to remember is that a circle of 57 mm radius has a circumference of just under 360 mm. In other words, one millimetre equals one degree.
It is no coincidence that my penknife handle has three notches, one 57 mm from the first, the other 5 mm from the first. Thus if I make a quadrant or compass rose I can mark it in 5 degree increments.
By folding paper you can accurately mark 90, 45 and 22.5 degree angles. There are several ways to draw a good circle or quarter circle with improvised means.
Or just draw around something round.
Such navigation devices can be used on the land as well as at sea. They have a long tradition of being used in deserts, exploiting the clear night skies.
There are also situations where you might wish to determine the angle of a slope.
I will close with two trigonometry-based tricks:
The first can be used to determine the width of a river or road. This uses the principle of similar triangles.
Face a landmark on the far bank of the river. Turn 90 degrees and pace out a set distance, such as five paces. Place a marker (B in the illustration) and then pace out another five paces (or whatever distance you used before). A-B should equal B-C to avoid any calculations.
Turn 90 degrees and head away from C. counting your paces. Every few paces look back at your landmark. When the landmark aligns with B then C-D will equal the distance between A and the landmark.
The second technique is for applications such as measuring the height of a tree or cliff.
Vertical distance will equal horizontal distance when the viewing angle is 45 degrees. You can use a quadrant or clinometer for this, but you need to remember to add the height of your eye to the horizontal distance.
Alternately, you can use a stick or staff and move back until it appears to be the same height as the object. Add the length of the stick/staff to the horizontal distance.
You may have noticed that wood axes often have a 45 degree cut across their end. A lumberjack would sight along this, moving back until he could see the top of the trunk. Height was horizontal distance, plus the length of the axe handle.
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Masks and Coronavirus.
English has a very large vocabulary, so it is intriguing that I can still find concepts for which there is not yet a specific term. The term I am looking for is one that means to be simultaneously both “amused” and “annoyed”.
What currently provokes this emotion? Every now and then, someone passes me in the street wearing a surgical mask. I saw the same nonsense with swine flu.
Surgical masks don’t work that way! A surgical mask does not protect you from airborne infectious agents. It does not protect the wearer, it is intended to protect the rest of the world from the wearer. If a surgeon is operating on a patient, he or she uses a mask. If they are operating on an infectious patient, they wear a space-helmet affair with powered air filtration. Don’t take my word for it, read this or this or do some research of your own.
Now perhaps I am just being grumpy, and every person I see is selflessly trying to protect everyone else from their own infections. If so, staying at home might have been a more prudent move. But since I am cynical as well as grumpy, I very much doubt it. Unlike thirty years ago, information on such matters is readily available. It is both impressive and depressing that people can still be so ignorant and foolish.
Want to really avoid coronavirus? A good start is to keep your fingers out of your mouth or up your nose and follow all those other manners people were once taught but are now neglected. A radical idea would be to put your phone back in your pocket. That way you might have a chance of spotting someone coughing and sneezing, or more likely threats like traffic! As a friend of mine recently remarked: “Hoarding sanitizer is stupid. You can only sanitize your own hands so many times. If everyone else around you can't, that's going to do much more to spread the disease than you only sanitizing your hands x number of times.” People fixate on sanitizer and forget old fashioned soap is an excellent anti-microbial agent.
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If You Want To Get Ahead, Get A Hood
A few nights ago I stayed up late, and by the time I went to bed it was very cold indeed. So cold, that as I lay waiting for my shivering to warm the bed, I considered fetching a woolly hat. I thought about the nightcaps worn by characters such as Scrooge and reflected that some of our ancestors ideas were wiser than we treat them. This got me thinking about ancient clothing styles again. For a big chunk of their history humans wore cloaks and tunics, and there is no obvious logical explanation of why this has declined. Indeed, I am old enough to remember nurses and policemen wearing capes as outdoor wear.
Most modern people spend much of their time indoors. Features such as central heating, air-conditioning and insulation make this a very comfortable environment. Most of us wear just a shirt or tee-shirt, our modern underwear barely qualifying as a layer. In some places a jacket and tie is required, and cooling is turned up to a higher level, wasting energy. (Remember, the cloth used to make one ugly neck tie could be used to make two Brazilian bikinis!). When we leave this protective environment we need more insulation, and this usually takes the form of a thick outer garment we can easily remove in one piece when we reach the indoors again.
For our ancestors, things were different. Uniformly heating a large structure was problematic and resource intensive. Ironically, the peasant in his little hut would be better off in this respect than the lord in his vast castle or manor. I imagine certain select chambers of a castle had fires or braziers while the corridors and other chambers might be cold enough to fog the breath.
In general there would be less discrepancy between interior and exterior temperatures. Hence the typical clothing ensemble was orientated towards being comfortable outdoors. Travellers or soldiers might have to spend several days at a time out of doors. For the Celt, Roman, Viking, Saxon or Norman the answer to this was the cloak and tunic. These were made of wool, which has the merit of retaining some warmth if soaked by the rain. Some woollen garments had the lanolin left in or added, and might have a nap that shed rain and snow. Other fabrics such as linen and hemp saw some use, particularly in drier climates, but generally the cloak and the outermost tunic would be woollen. The early Roman tunic lacked true sleeves, or was short sleeved. Many Romans went bare-legged, or wore short breeches. In latter centuries the Roman soldier wore long sleeves and trousers, much like his earlier Germanic foes. (By this time many legionaries were of Germanic ancestry).
Tunic, trousers and cloak were not the whole story. Except in hot conditions, some form of short or undertunic may have been used. These might have been of easily laundered cloth such as hemp and linen. Underpants were rare or unknown in some cultures or classes. A noble may wear braies, while the poorer medieval man tucked the long tails of his shirt between his legs. In an era where many people could not afford large quantities of clothing such a shirt might also serve as a night shirt. Roman attire included a long scarf, worn under the tunic. For the soldier this prevent armour chaffing his neck, but the scarf is recorded as being a general item of wear. In addition to its other functions, such a scarf may have served like a detachable collar, protecting the tunic and other garments from soiling. Many tunics show trimming of the neck, cuffs and hem. This is often contrasting or decorated. Easily replaced, this may have allowed the practical life of a garment to be extended, an important consideration when many individuals owned only a few garments.
If we look at medieval peasants and other commoners a very common item of clothing is the hood. A modern hood is usually part of a larger garment, and hooded cloaks date back thousands of years. What is distinctive about these medieval hoods is they are separate garments. Initially I thought this might be some prudent frugality. If a tunic wore out you could still make use of a perfectly good hood. Also, one only need buy or make a single hood that could be used with any of your garments. Some of this may have been the case, but the following video provided further enlightenment:
The hood was as much a shoulder cape as it was a head covering. The hood was usually lined, so it provided an extra couple of layers of insulation over the part of the body heat would be rising from.
Further on the video explains how in warmer conditions the hood can be configured into a chaperon-style hat.
Elsewhere in this blog I have described how a shoulder covering can contribute to personal camouflage. A garment based on the medieval hood could have “garnish” applied as described here. A shaped hem adds further disruption. Camouflage cloth could be used, but this will work with any suitably neutral-coloured monotone. Being a lined garment it could be turned inside out to hide the camouflage if necessary. If made with camouflage cloth at least one side will need to cotton, so perhaps it should be made with a layer of fleece sandwiched between two layers. Some of the hoods sold for re-enactors are reasonably priced, but choice in good tactical colours is limited. Do not overlook the potential of modern versions, such as a section of poncho-liner, possibly combined with the M-51 hood attachment.
Worn as a chaperon, the hood is suitably irregular to still work as camouflage. At a distance, it looks a bit like a turban, which may be useful. One is reminded of the Mitznefet used by the Israelis.
Much to my surprise, the medieval hood has considerable potential for modern use by anyone who ventures out in cold weather.
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Hatchet Men by Richard H. Dillon.
My research for my last blog have resulted in me locating and reading a copy of “Hatchet Men” by Richard H. Dillon. This is proving to be a fascinating book, with scope far greater than just the Tong wars. Dillon includes an account of the psychological and sociological factors that contributed.
On one side, we have rampant bigotry. On the other, unhealthy isolationism. Thrown into this are some all too familiar factors. Sensationalist and mendacious journalists. Self-serving and opportunistic politicians. A greatly understrength, and often corrupt, police force that the law-abiding could not trust. Cosmetic, politically-motivated, laws that only penalize the law-abiding. Courts and lawyers used as weapons by the criminals rather than the victims. The innocent with no protection and unable to protect themselves. Good people trapped between parasitic criminals and prejudiced mobs.
There are sparks of inspiration too. Thousands of normal San Franciscans took to the streets as the “Pickaxe Handle Brigade” and prevented the anti-Chinese sand-lot mobs burning Chinatown. Or the tenacious, often dangerous, crusade of Donaldina “Lo Mo” Cameron to rescue Chinese women from slavery.
This is a story that has many lessons for both the present and the future. Many of the conditions and problems described still exist in our societies. Within the major cities of America and Europe thousands of women have been enslaved as prostitutes.
I recommend reading “Hatchet Men”. It is a book that should be required reading in schools.
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Highbinder Hatchet
A few months back I binge-watched the excellent series “Warrior”.
This once again stirred my curiosity about the Tongs and the weapons they used.
The footsoldiers of the criminal tongs were the “highbinders” or “boo how doy”, which means “hatchet sons”, but was more commonly translated as “hatchet men”.
The term “highbinder” supposedly derives from the members of the fighting tongs wearing their hair in a style which made it difficult for an enemy to grab their queue.
In fact, the term was used for non-Chinese hoodlums long before it was applied to Chinese (Hatchet Men p.52-3).
The rationale behind “hatchet men” is usually that this was the favoured weapon of the highbinders, being useful for both dispatching an enemy and disposing of the body.
One would think that the cleaver would have been a more readily available implement in Chinese communities. Indeed, this often seems to be the choice of modern Chinese criminals.
Interestingly, while displays of confiscated highbinder weapons do include hatchets, knives and firearms seem more common.
Some writers like to paint the picture that the tong fighters preferred mêlée combat, but reports from the time as well as photos make it clear modern firearms were used.
It is possible that blades were favoured for intimidation.
Police chief (1866-97) Pat Crowley was probably exaggerating when he said “Nearly every Chinaman in the city is the owner of a pistol, and we all know how handy he is in its use.”
However, it is clear firearms use by Chinese criminals was common.
This extract from a US Congressional report also makes interesting reading:
Q. They have a common habit, I understand, of carrying the pistol in the hand stuck up in their voluminous sleeve, and going up to a person and shooting him through the sleeve. Is that true? A. They generally take out the pistol when they shoot, although they carry them very often in their sleeves. Highbinders seldom carry pistols. They are generally accompanied by another person, whom they call " jury," and who belongs to the poorer class of Chinamen. He follows the highbinder and carries the weapon. When caught, we would search the highbinder for a pistol, but would not find anything of the kind on him, and the ' jury" would have disappeared with the weapon. The only time the highbinder has a weapon is while leaving his quarters, but on the street you will not find one. Q. Are they not oftentimes called "hatchetmen"? A. The hatchet is a great weapon and the blade is about 6 inches long Q. A regular cleaver? A. A good deal like a lather's hatchet. Q, When you said that there were 30 men killed in the streets, you meant men who were shot; that does not include men who were killed by hatchetmen, does it? A. They do not use these hatchets very much now; they use knives more, because knives do not make any noise.
Also notable is that most of the knives displayed do not appear to be Chinese in origin. Indeed, the leftmost in the photo below appears Japanese!
The middle example appears to be made from a broken (American) sabre.
According to “The Complete story of the San Francisco Horror”, “The favorite weapon of the Highbinder is a long knife made of a file, with a brass knob and heavy handle. The other weapon in common use is a 45-calibre Colt’s revolver.”
Many “American” knives would have been forged in Sheffield or Solingen!
There are very few “martial arts” weapons in these collections.
A weapon of actual Chinese pedigree in these pictures are the paired butterfly swords (Woo dip dao/ hudiedao) that appear in each photo.
These may be the “bowie knifes two feet long in the blade” mentioned by Price on page 288 of Hatchet Men.
The Wikipedia article on Tong Wars makes the following statement:
“The hatchet that the highbinders used was somewhat modified from what one usually thinks of a hatchet, as they would cut much of the handle off just enough to have a good grip, and cut a hole into it.”
This is attributed to “Hatchet Men” by Richard H Dillon but the page reference given (p.107) is incorrect, the correct reference being the testimony of Officer Michael Smith on page 163. The actual passage is:
“A great many of them carry a hatchet with the handle cut off. It may be about six inches long, with a handle and a hole cut in it. They have the handle sawed off a little, leaving just enough to keep a good hold…”
Shortening a hatchet may make it easier for it to be concealed in the sleeve of a Chinese garment.
I have been unable to find any images of shortened hatchets that were used by highbinders, nor of any corroborating references.
One idle weekend, I decided to make a shortened hatchet as an experiment. I worked on the premise that “cut a hole into it” referred to the handle, not seeing any easy way that myself or a highbinder could bore a hole through any other part.
The tool I chose was a low-cost hatchet that I think was described as 1.25 lb.
Even with much of the handle removed it seems surprisingly heavy, and the modification makes it seem even more top heavy.
On the other hand, it is still a pretty sturdy tool and still feels like it could break through an interior door, let alone discourage an aggressor.
It can also serve as a hammer for applications such as breaking windows.
As you can see, I painted the head to make it less visible.
Update
An interesting tool I came across recently, the Marbles Mini Hatchet. Weight is given as 159 g and length as 18 cm. Price is fairly reasonable.
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Snap-links Galore!
Recently I was talking about carabiners. Specifically, I said: “Carabiner: A carabiner makes a very practical keyring and has a number of uses. Several of the items listed above can be conveniently carried on your keyring. If your gear has loops or rings it can be temporarily attached to the carabiner when you need your hands free. I sometimes use mine to carry shopping bags.”
I always try to pay attention to good advice, particularly when I am the one giving it! I decided to make sure that all my rucksacks have a carabiner or snap-link positioned where it can serve as an extra pair of hands when needed. Since I am right-handed then the left shoulder strap seems a logical position.
Several of my packs have loops or D-rings in these locations, so adding a snap-link to these was a simple affair. Other packs needed minor modification. For these I took a short length of badge lanyard and sewed it into a loop.
Here are some photos:
Two daysacs I have. For these I opened up the sticking and then resewed with the loop in place.
This is a large pack I have used for much of my travelling. It is an excellent design that has six large external pockets. It converts into a suitcase so the straps are protected while the pack goes through baggage handling. For this pack I made a closed loop and sewed it into position.
Lastly, we have my Northern Ireland patrol pack. Fitting the snap-link to this one did not involve any sewing. I had already sewn a length of paracord to each strap for attaching the camouflage, so the snap-link attached to this. The detachable side pouches attached to this pack have their own harness, so this got a snap-link too.
Just for good measure, I also added a snap-link to my knife belt
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Nitecore Thumb Flashlight
Update
Recently I decided to recharge my Nitecore Thumb Flashlight.
I left it plugged into the computer for several hours. When I went to unplug it I was surprised that the green light that indicates a full charge was not visible.
The flashlight seemed to have taken a charge, but when activated, one of the main LED bulbs was dead. The other is still quite bright, but given the flashlight has experienced nothing more stressful than riding around in my thigh pocket, this is pretty poor.
Regrettably, I withdraw my recommendation of this item. The search for a good, affordable EDC flashlight continues.
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When it comes to the field of flashlights we have, perhaps, a little too much choice.
Firstly, we have the tactical lights designed to mount on firearms. Since they must endure the pounding of recoil, these have to be good quality, and have a price tag to match. Very nice if you are being equipped from someone else’s budget.
Next, you have the class of flashlight that was once typified by the Mag-lites. Robust, and waterproof to conditions under which the user has long ceased to function.
The above use conventional batteries, and have the limitations inherent with these as a power source. There are a number of survival torches that use “exotic” batteries intended for a very long shelf life and/or long use. The problem with these is finding replacement batteries when these eventually run out. Typically they are not the sort stocked by a village store or gas station. This is not to say that some such flashlights do not have a place. A little Photon light should be part of your “every day carry” (EDC). Carry it on your keys or with your dogtags I even have one as the zip-pull of my lock pick kit.
“Batteryless” flashlights have become more widely available in recent years. Some use solar panels, some use a variant of a hand-powered system and some a combination of methods. Sadly, the majority of these do not have the durability or water-resistance of more conventional survival flashlights. On the other hand, some can be obtained at very low prices, and if their limitations are understood and accepted can prove very useful. I have one hanging up in the cupboard under the stairs, where it often proves useful. More capable models are beginning to appear on the market, some claiming to be water-resistant. Some models include radio receivers and/or the ability to charge phones and other devices.
The final class I will look at are that of rechargeable flashlights. Up until recently rechargeable flashlights needed a special charging cradle or you had tounload the batteries into a charger. Now we are seeing rechargeable flashlights that charge by USB in much the same way as a mobile phone.
While I was writing about EDC it became apparent that my personal kit could use a little more capability in the field of illumination. I decided to treat myself to a USB-rechargeable Nitecore Thumb.
This is quite an impressive little device. It is a little bit bigger than a USB-drive and thus small enough to add to my EDC without any noticeable penalty. It comes with a large strong clip that can be unscrewed and removed if the user desires. The clip is quite tenacious and is ideal for securing it to the top of my right cargo pocket, where it can easily be accessed. It would have been nice if an option to reverse this clip had been included. I would prefer to carry my Thumb with the bulbs inside the pocket.
The primary light source is a pair of white LEDs. Usefully, these are mounted on a swivel head. In needed the flashlight could be clipped to a headband or shirt pocket and the beam directed forwards.
The body of the flashlight has two buttons. There is a lockout mode should you find yourself accidentally activating the flashlight. The button nearest the white LEDs activates the main beam. Pressing the button once triggers the high power setting, which is claimed as 85 lumens. Repeated presses cycles through high, mid, ultralow, flashing (high) and standby. Waiting for three seconds or more and pressing the button will deactivate the beam without having to go through the cycle. The orientation of the flashlight can easily be determined by touching either the ends or the clip.
A second button is mounted towards the other end of the flashlight. This activates a red LED light positioned between the two buttons. Hitting the button twice in rapid succession causes this light to flash. If walking a dark country road at night hanging a red light on the back of your rucsack can be prudent.
The red LED panel also serves as a charging indicator. When the flashlight has fully charged a green LED shows. The USB port is a “micro” I think, so you should be sure you have compatible lead. Being behind the curve most of mine are minis, but luckily I have at least one micro, due to my pack-rat tendencies. When not being used the port is covered and plugged by a rubber fixing.
Two sizes of split-ring were included, the larger of which seems to be quite substantial. The packaging claims a twelve month warranty.
The Thumb is made in China, which may automatically turn some of you against it. It is not the sort of flashlight that will survive a nuclear blast at the bottom of the Marianas trench! For what it is, and the role I want it for, it seems to be good quality, and some intelligent thought has obviously been put into the design. Shop around, since price varies considerably. I found mine for nearly half what most other outlets were asking.
I had occasion to use it the other night when looking for something dropped in a gutter. It was certainly bright enough for the purpose! And I can charge it for free when at my computer at work!
Categories
Bowls for Backpacking
Decades ago I had the pleasure of visiting Vancouver, Canada (both the city and the island).
In the middle of the city I visited an art exhibition. One of my recollections was that the artist had a kitchen based around dozens of half-litre glass (pyrex?) bowls.
Half a litre, she maintained, was good for a sensible portion of food, a coffee for the parched or an entertaining margarita!
When washed, these bowls formed a well-aired pyramid on the draining board.
Their size and shape allowed them to be nested so they took up little cupboard space when not in use.
The bowls could be used for both hot and cold foods and drink, and presumably could be used in a microwave too.
It was an interesting concept and I am usually reminded of its simplicity whenever I see a Buddhist monk with his bowl.
Unfortunately it is not an idea I have been able to put into practical use myself. There are always other priorities for my money, and I have yet to come across a really good bulk offer of bowls.
This brings me to the subject of “tableware” for camping and backpacking.
As I have discussed recently, if we are really travelling lightweight our only cooking vessel will be a canteen cup or mess tin, and this also serves as our coffee cup, soup-bowl or similar.
Other situations may warrant a more extensive cooking kit. With the possible exception of the old US Army mess kit, most military mess kits do not offer you many more options than a canteen cup. Most civilian kits are less than ideal too.
Today’s blog is not about cooking kits, however, but how you eat the food once it is cooked.
You can, of course, eat your food direct from the pot or pan, taking care not to scratch any non-stick coating, or burn yourself.
If you have company, or a third party is cooking for you, you will need some bowls and/or plates.
There are a variety of camping tableware kits available, although to my mind many of these appear somewhat expensive for what they are.
Ideally, we need some kind of bowl, made from a material that will withstand the inevitable knocks and bumps that transport in a pack can involve.
Root around you local discount store and see what is available in the shape of sandwich boxes.
I got particularly lucky, since they had a whole shelf of boxes similar to this:
The lid locks shut for extra security.
In addition, the 1.1 litre box comes with a 0.5 litre smaller box inside. The inner box also has a locking lid.
Size and shape of the larger box is well suited to carriage in the side pocket of a rucksack. You may prefer a squarer or smaller item, so shop around.
The box bottom can be used as a bowl.
The lid can serve as a plate for foods that are better suited to plates than bowls.
The shape of the inner box is not ideal as a drinking vessel, but this can be replaced with something else.
Many designs of plastic beaker could be fitted inside the larger box, and plastic mugs or cups are fairly easy to acquire at a reasonable price.
And you may be carrying your canteen cup, anyhow.
The interior of the sandwich boxes can be used to carry additional items. A spork seems to be an obvious choice.
Teabags and other food items can be carried.
Don’t use the interior of your eating vessel to carry items such as hexamine fuel, or anything that might taint your food.
The box itself might be used for stoveless cooking.