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Phillosoph

Debugging Your Bug-Out Bag: 2 Sustenance

Food and Cooking

A bug-out is not going to be three square meals a day with a choice of ice cream flavours!
For a bug-out bag, most of the food should be capable of being consumed without cooking. A significant part should be food you can consume on the move.
Long shelf-life without the need for refrigeration or freezing is a priority.
MREs are an expensive and somewhat bulky way to stay fed for 72 hours. You will also be lugging around weight and junk you do not need such as multiple spoons, instant coffee and chewing gum.
Soldiers often strip down their MREs before a patrol. Vast amounts of fuel and money could be saved if many of these items were not included in the first place!
Stripping down the MREs for a bug-out bag beforehand is not really practical since you will violate the packaging and affect the shelf-life.
Possibly the best feature of MREs is the provision of flame-less heating pouches.
There are lots of other foods that meet the above criteria, many of them available down the supermarket. I suggest you read DePugh’s comments on food selection.
Some possible things to provision your BOB include:
Dried or semi-dried food such as sultanas, apricots and banana flakes.
Matzos.
Rolled Oats/Porridge: One of the few grains that can be eaten without cooking.
Cured or smoked sausage.
Tinned meats such as Spam, corned beef etc.
Trail mix (has a relatively short shelf life, but use it if you have it).
Home-made Jerky (a good stock of the store bought stuff may be expensive, so make your own!)
Cereal bars.You can make your own.
Lifeboat Biscuits.
Pinole (easily made from polenta).
Malt barley.
If you are not in immediate danger, add fresh foods you may have in the house. Priorities are fruit, cheese, bread, jams, butter, and cooked meats.
Carbs, fats and sugars: The end of the world is no time to keep to the diet!
Don’t waste space and money on vitamin supplements. Vitamin deficiency is not going to be a major threat in 72 hours!
While carrying a bug-out bag and its contents will consume energy, many reading this will be used to eating larger meals and more frequently than they need to. You can go a lot further on less than you might think.
In addition to the above, you may wish to put together a “brew kit”. In certain conditions hot liquids are much more than just a morale boost.
Have tea bags and coffee bags. If civilisation is ending you don’t want the last thing you drink to be yucky instant pseudo-coffee!
Add some variety such as hot chocolate mix, stock cubes, packet-soups and even some blocks of instant noodles.
If water supplies are a concern, sugars and starches take less water to digest than fats. Eating tends to stimulate thirst. Eating less food if water is restricted is usually prudent, and appetite is often reduced in vary hot weather, so the quantity of food may be reduced in favour of more water.
Many of us are carrying extra weight around our middles, so a couple of days on light rations will not harm us. A couple of days without adequate water will!

Boiling Water

Even if you do not carry a brew kit, some means to heat water to render it safe to drink will be needed.
This is another area where bad advice is common. I have seen recommendations to boil for twenty minutes and allow to stand for another twenty! The WHO standard specifies a rolling boil for ten minutes.This is not a strictly scientific criteria and is deliberate overkill. (This criteria may have been updated since I was educated!) Ten minutes is not really practical if your fuel supply is limited.
Generally, your actual requirement is to pasteurize your water (kill pathogens) rather than sterilize it. This may be done by heating water to 65°C for six minutes. More practically, since the pasteurization process is exponential, bringing water to a rolling boil (100°C) for a few seconds has the same effect. That is how humans have been pasteurizing water (and making tea) for thousands of years.
I am a qualified microbiologist (be it an old one!), but don’t take my word for it, do some research of your own. Many sites on solar cooking have information on water pasteurization and SODIS, and may have links to scientific papers on the topic.
German Mess Kit with Insert
A European mess kit is a better choice for cooking and boiling than a canteen cup. It will treat a more useful quantity of water and may be hung above a fire. It may also be used as a bucket to fetch water, collect berries and similar.
The interior of your mess kit may be packed with your brew kit and other items.
I would not recommend carrying your stove and fuel inside your cooking vessel, even if bagged up.
A mess kit or canteen cup is a pack item, not belt-kit.

Stove

A stove will be needed for when a fire cannot be used.
Alcohol gel stoves are probably the best option for your bug-out-bag.
Some of these resemble small paint cans with a pot stand. Other models of stove, such as the Crusader cup stoves, mini-Trangia and Trangia Triangle will work with either alcohol gel or solid fuel blocks. The Trangia stoves and the Esbit folding stoves can be modified to use gel by adding a metal dish for the fuel. Some solid alcohol blocks work with the standard Esbit stove.
Other designs of stove, pot support or burning dish are easily constructed.
You may use your stove while the pot handle hangs from a stick or other support. This is useful when your cooking space is not totally level, or your pot is likely to get knocked.
Air Ministry Pamphlet “Desert Survival” 225:
Paragraph 11. The following items, in addition to water, should be carried if possible: heliograph, signal pistol and cartridges or flares, a small reliable compass, maps (indicating roads and sources of water if possible), tinted flying goggles or sun glasses, head covering, knife, matches, salt tablets, a minimum of concentrated emergency rations, first aid kit, anti-burn cream, torch, warm clothing (for use at night), and.a pair of strong boots. A useful maxim to bear in mind is “always fly in the boots in which you intend walking home”.

Water

You will need some means to carry water, the quantity depending on climate and availability. In arid and semi-arid conditions water is one of your priorities. In the jungle or Pacific Northwest there may be more water around than you care for.
Water consumption should not exceed water loss. When water supplies are a concern, minimize water loss. “Ration Sweat”. Cover your head and exposed skin. Stick to the shade. Hike or work at night.
When water is scarce, priority is for drinking rather than washing or cooking. Washing should be restricted to washing wounds and cleaning the hands before eating or medical procedures.
Each litre of water you carry will weigh one kilo/ 2.2 lbs, not including the container.
A water bladder with a drinking tube is recommended, since it allows you to drink on the move without needing to remove or unpack your pack. Stay hydrated!
A hydration pack is a water bladder with carrying straps, so it can be worn as a small pack when you are not wearing your rucksack. The hydration pack should either fit in or onto the outside of your rucksack when you are wearing the latter.
You only really need one bladder with a drinking tube in your bug-out-bag. The rest of your water may be carried in containers such as large soda bottles, which saves a few pennies. Refill your water bladder from the soda bottles as needed.
There are various pros and cons regarding keeping the water bottles in your bug-out-bag already filled.
Firstly, any water kept for an extended period should have a few drops of unscented bleach added to it. This sterilizes the water and harmlessly decays down into water and hint of salt over time. I would not keep water in water bladders when they are not in use.
Plastic components leaching into the stored water has been raised as an objection. According to scientific studies this is a very minor worry. If a nearby volcano or the local nuclear plant is about to blow, this may be fairly low on your list of worries!
There may not be time to fill-up your water bottles before you go. The mains water supply may have been cut off, or toxic waste dumped into the water supply by your friendly local industry may be the reason you are evacuating.
Filling the bottles in your bug-out-gear in a supply of water you stored for the purpose has been suggested. Presumably some people intend to use non-plastic bottles. Finding non-plastic storage bottles larger than a litre may be difficult. That may be a lot of bottles you will need to find room for!
Obviously, if storing water long term, use water that is as clean and clear as possible. Preboil it if possible. Reoxygenate it as described on the SODIS protocol before topping up and adding bleach or purification tablets.
Leaving the filled and sealed bottles standing in strong sunlight for a day or so will not hurt.
While most of your water should be in your pack, you should have a reserve on your person to carry when you are away from your main pack.
Hydration packs or canteens with slings are good, but there will be temptation to put them down. Slings or carrying straps may get caught on undergrowth and branches.
A canteen in a belt pouch may make sloshing noises that will give your presence away or alert game. A water bladder in a belt pouch may be a better option.
Smaller bottles, such as the US pilot’s flask (One US pint) can be carried in a large pocket.
With your water supply you might decide to carry a dew-sponge, length of plastic tube, and a bandanna/cloth to be used for initial filtration.
Your bug-out-bag should have a good supply of water-purification tablets for instances when you cannot heat treat your water. Get the sort intended for travellers, where a single tablet treats one litre of water. Some varieties treat 5 or 200 litres per tablet!
Water purification pumps are possibly not necessary for an individual travelling light in a 72 hour scenario, but useful for a squad or group or for a longer trip. Such water may still need chemical or heat treatment.
Simple Spring Snare Trap
Recommendations for trapping and fishing gear for a bug-out bag can also get quite extensive.
In many bug-out scenarios there may not be time or suitable conditions for trapping and fishing. Trapping and fishing involves staying in an area for some time, when in a bug-out travelling may be a priority.
My EDC includes a six-span length of braided fishing line and 22 hooks on nylon. If I was expecting to venture into the wilds, I might add some additional gear to my EDC. I will talk about that another day. Today I am discussing what to carry in your bug-out-bag.
Brass wire suitable for making snares may be used for repairs or for other purposes, so a ten metre coil has a place in your bug-out bag.
A generous amount of braided fishing line also has many other applications. You might as well pack whatever was left on the reel once you had constructed your EDC fishing lines.
Some advise to also have a spool of light monofilament or flurocarbon line for when fish are shy of a braided or heavy line. All my hooks are on nylon and in a survival/bug-out situation I am most likely to be night fishing, so I expect line visibility will not be a major problem.
It is not a bad idea to fill the nooks and crannies of your bag with various types of cordage: ball of cotton string, bundle of bankline, hank of paracord.
Fishing hooks and lures cost little and take up little room, so have a good supply. They will be no great burden even if you do not have a chance to use them. All should already be tied to nylon leaders or fitted with snap-swivels.
A bundle of wire leaders will be useful if you find yourself lucky enough to be fishing for bigger, sharp-toothed fish. Long leaders may also be used as snares.
I am a little dubious about carrying fishing rods and other items intended for active angling. There are easier methods for catching fish. If travelling the most likely technique will be setting a night line while sleeping.
A fishing gig and a net are useful if you are certain that you will be fishing.
Most gigs I have seen have a screw fitting. You will need to modify this so you have a socket that may be mounted on a stick.
In Brazil, my girlfriend would use a net she called a “pulsa”. Her description sounds like a circular lift net, but it would be thrown out over the water like a frisbee and then hauled back, effectively trawling. Similar nets fold up to a size compatible with a large pack.
As far as active hunting goes, you may not have time if the emergency requires you to move fast or travel far.
All the chaos and human activity may make game shy, or they may have bugged out themselves before humans woke-up to the danger.
A hand catapult takes up little room in a bag, although you may have little opportunity to hunt with it. It could be useful in driving off aggressive dogs.
A .22 hunting rifle may not see much use either.
In a 72 hour bug-out scenario, other human beings are likely to be more of a problem than hunger. This should be figured into what firearms you decide to take with you.
Part Three Coming Soon
Categories
Phillosoph

Debugging Your Bug-Out Bag: 1 Sleep Tight

There are literally hundreds of books and websites telling you how to put together a 72 hour kit/Bug-Out Bag (BOB).
Generally I have tried to address less common topics.
Having recently seen just how bad some of these BOB suggestions are, I now feel inclined to share some thoughts and suggestions on a few topics.
If you are putting together a Bug-Out Bag (BOB) I suggest you first have a read of Robert DePugh’s observations on food and gear.
Then have a browse of Kephart’s Summer and Autumn Outfits. Several chapters of Kephart’s book are well worth a read before progressing.
Kephart’s mentor Nessmuk has several passages that provide further insight of what could be achieved more than a century ago:
"Fine woolen cassimere of medium thickness for coat, vest and pantaloons, with no cotton lining. Color, slate gray or dead­leaf (either is good). Two soft, thick woolen shirts; two pairs of fine, but substantial, woolen drawers; two pairs of strong woolen socks or stockings; these are what you need, and all you need in the way of clothing for the woods, excepting hat and boots, or gaiters."
"My own load, including canoe, extra clothing, blanket­bag, two days’ rations, pocket­axe, rod and knapsack, never exceeded 26 pounds; and I went prepared to camp out any and every night." [Including canoe!]
"I made calculations on losing the trail the first day, and being out a full week. The outfit consisted of rifle, hatchet, compass, blanket­bag, knapsack and knife. For rations, one loaf of bread, two quarts of meal, two pounds of pork, one pound of sugar, with tea, salt, etc., and a supply of jerked venison. One tin dish, twelve rounds of ammunition, and the bullet­molds, filled the list, and did not make a heavy load."
AFM 64-5 (1952) advises:
Don't overload; a 25-30 pound sack should carry all you need except in the Arctic in winter. Try to carry as many of the following items as possible: matches or lighter, candle, compass, necessary maps, airplane first-aid kit, notebook and pencil — all in waterproof containers — machete or stout knife, water, food, signal mirror, sunglasses, watch, small bottle of gasoline, gun and ammunition, wire or shroud lines, extra socks.
Arctic: In the winter, in addition to the essentials recommended above, carry a sleeping bag, parka, mittens, snowshoes, or skis, and mukluks. In summer don't forget mosquito netting and repellent, extra clothing (socks especially) and shoepacs. Wear sunglasses when sun is high on snow surface. Keep feet dry, summer and winter.
Desert: Water is the most important factor in desert survival. Carry along all you can — even at the expense of leaving behind some food and other equipment. Take along a piece of parachute to serve as a sunshade during the day; carry some extra clothing for the cold nights.
Tropics: The most useful aids to travel in the tropics are a machete, to help cut your way, find food, make a raft; a compass, for maintaining direction; a first aid kit, to keep you going in the face of fever and the risk of infection; stout shoes, that will save your feet and enable you to walk out; and a hammock.
Greenbank also recommends a 30 lb load, although he may have been influenced by AFM 64-5.
The US DOD definition of “manportable” is that an item is less than 14 kg/31 lbs. Of course, many soldiers get lumbered with several “manportable” items along with a heap of other gear!
Your bag may be heavier than this, but it is a good target to aim for. 
How to pack a rucksack I have described previously. Ideally, you want a large pack, packed light. The sleeping kit suggested belowis bulky, but relatively light. The mass of denser items carried above it helps compress it.
I will work on the common premise that a bug-out-bag is designed to keep you going for 72 hours until you reach safety or an emergency response has been organized.
I will limit myself to bag contents. Elsewhere I have discussed what to have with your bag..

Sleeping and Shelter

If you do not already have a rucksack you intend to use, it may be prudent to assemble your sleeping and shelter gear before you purchase your rucksack.
Your goal is a roomy pack, lightly packed.
How much room your sleeping and shelter gear takes up, and how you carry it will influence how much other stuff you take with you.
I hear of soldiers and some outdoor types omitting their sleeping gear and resigning themselves to being uncomfortable and having a bad night's sleep. This is not really advisable.
We spend at least a third of our time sleeping. Not getting a good sleep may very adversely affect our performance when awake. You may need to be at your best!

Poncho Liner or Blanket

At the very minimum, you will need a blanket or poncho-liner. These may also serve as a warm garment, and may be modified to better serve in this role.
A blanket or poncho-liner may be combined with other sleeping items for additional warmth.
Man in Poncho0liner
In a tactical scenario a blanket or poncho-liner will keep you warm but may be immediately discarded if necessary.
Many soldiers who “rough-it” could have simply thrown a ponch-liner over themselves.
This conjures up a nice image of the first sergeant doing his rounds and tucking in exhausted grunts. Aww!

Sleeping Bags

Unless you live in the tropics, you will need to have a 1 to 2 or 2-season sleeping bag and a 2 to 3 or 3-season bag for colder conditions. Select which best suits the anticipated conditions.
Which to buy first? Let the current season be your guide.
When it is colder, the bags may be used in combination with each other, and/or with the poncho-liner/blanket.
If you want your BOB ready to go at a moment’s notice, have the sleeping bag appropriate for the current season packed in your rucksack while the other “rests” uncompressed. This will prolong the life and performance of your bags.
Supposably, down bags pack smaller and are more tolerant of being compressed for long periods of time.
If you live where it is more often wet than cold, a synthetic bag may be a better choice.
Select according to your budget and local conditions.
A sleeping bag liner keeps your bedding cleaner. There are silk and fleece versions that may increase the temperature range of your sleeping system.
Your sleeping kit should also include a pair of sandbags or similar. If you have to sleep in your boots, cover your boots with the sandbags.
Have a woolly hat or headover to serve as a nightcap.

Kip Mats

The ground will probably be cold and wet at night. A kip mat costs little and will make a big difference to your comfort.
There are alternatives such as self-inflating mattresses. It is debatable if the expense is justified if the item is permanently to be kept in a BOB.
A rolled kip mat does not need heavy duty straps. I used a couple of polyester ribbons and buckles for one of mine. If you know your basic knots as you should, you can use a length of cord. The cord may be put to other purposes while the mat is in use.
Kip mats are often rolled and carried strapped to the outside of a bag. Unless kept in a camouflage sack, they compromise your camouflage.
They are also somewhat vulnerable in this position. Many soldiers do not bother carrying them since they are likely to be ripped away while the rucksack is hung on the outside of a vehicle.
A rucksack that is large enough to accommodate a foldied kip mat is obviously an advantage. The mat provides additional padding against the back.
If you do lose your kip mat, try stuffing a bin-bag full of leaves or similar. Your rucksack should have half a dozen large bin-bags. They have numerous uses.

Bivi-Bags

Bivi-bags seem to get much less attention than they used to.
A bivi-bag will keep you dry and a little warmer when it is not possible to rig a shelter. The variants with a lengthwise opening are probably a little easier to exit in a hurry. For the same reasons, I do not recommend “hooped bivis”, which are actually tube tents.
When on the move, stick the bivi-bag in the bottom of your rucksack and cram your sleeping bag(s) into it.
Most bivi-bags are green or green dominant camouflages. They seem to spend a lot of this time on brown forest floors!

Poncho/Basha

When practical, you can use your bivi-bag in combination with a poncho or basha.
Pocho Shelters
This keeps the rain from pooling on your bivi-bag and gives you some shelter when dressing or cooking.
You will also need pegs, some cordage and/or bungees. If it is really windy, you may need to peg down your kip mat and/or bivi-bag, so have enough pegs.
You will need some support poles for when Mother Nature neglects to provide conveniently located trees.
In the desert, or very cold conditions, use a double canopy above you for added insulation. A space blanket, spare poncho etc may be used.

Hammocks

If your evacuation will take you through jungle or wooded areas, a lightweight hammock may prove handy.
Potentially, a net hammock can be used to fish, although the holes are on the large side in many examples I have seen.
Nets may also be used to catch rabbits if you can “smoke” them out of their warrens.
Twisted, a hammock may serve as an emergency rope.
Locations where you might use a hammock often also require mosquito netting. Biting insects can be a concern in colder latitudes too, however.

Tents

A poncho shelter gives you good situational awareness, which is prudent if bad people might try and take your stuff or do stuff to you. Emergencies are likely to bring out both the best and worst of humanity!
In some climates or seasons a tent is necessary.
Single person tents tend to be cramped, so you will probably end up rigging a poncho shelter in addition.
Crawling in and out of a small tent can be a slow process. If you need to exit a bivi-bag quickly, stand up and let it drop.
“One Plus One” tents are designed to be roomier for a solo traveller, yet can accommodate two people if they get on well.
If you intend to bug-out as part of a group, two-person tents may be warranted.
Dividing the components of a tent between two people is generally not a good idea. If a pair are separated neither has a complete shelter.
The exception to this are tents made from military shelter halves. Each half may be used as a lean-to.
One person should carry the full two-person tent while the other carries individual emergency shelter items. The tent carrier’s load may be lightened by their partner carrying a greater proportion of the food or water.