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Phillosoph

Bullet Points

This page will record various tips, tricks and ideas that do not really warrant their own article.
You may want to bookmark this page, as new content will be added whenever it occurs to me.
The first part of this page will concentrate on combat related material. I have now add a section on survival and bushcraft further down the page.
These are in no particular order or precedence.
Version 1.0.1.5

Combat

When fighting, assume there is a knife present. Just because you cannot see a knife, does not mean it is not there. Cunning knifemen ensure their knife is felt before it is seen.
Many unarmed defensive and offensive techniques become unworkable if the foe can bring a blade into play.
Handguns may also be difficult to spot, particularly in poor light.
Close combat has been defined as knocking the other guy down and not letting him get up again.
Achieving this often involves several phases.
Some self-defence courses only teach reactions to attacks so students are uncertain about how to take the initiative and secure the advantage, or how to engage in defence of someone else.
Some striking styles seem to have no takedown techniques or have neglected these in favour of sport and competition sparring. Or the takedown and throwing techniques are a “secret technique” and not available to most of the students who may need them. An aggressor is presumably battered until one party is exhausted or knocked out.
You will need kicks, hand-strikes, locks and throws.
Many wrestling and grappling styles expect to prevail without acknowledging that a “blow before throw” is often necessary, and combat may not be one-to-one. Often they train with partners who do not know how to realistically attack.
A common assumption is that a foe will use a similar style, or will fight on equal terms and that the foe will not use a knife.
Any time that a person is standing on two feet, there will be an angle at which the feet will be on the same line. If the body is tilted out of this vertical plane, that person will probably lose balance. Typically they will step back or forward to correct this. If you position your foot, leg or body so this step cannot be made, they may be made to fall. This is the principle behind many combat throws and takedown techniques.
Breakfalls have useful applications other than just self-defence and martial arts. In everyday life they can save you from serious injury.
If your preferred training style does not include breakfalls, take the trouble to learn and practice them independently.
Ideally, everyone would be taught breakfalls as infants.
You cannot make your hand or foot heavier, so if you want more power you must move it faster. Relaxed bodies move faster than tensed ones. Only tense a body part when really necessary.
This is the key not only to unarmed and armed combat, but also to many sports and other activities.
There are ways to deal with someone catching your leg when you kick, but it is better to avoid this situation.
Do not kick at targets where there is a chance your leg might be grabbed. Kick targets away from the hands or wait for opportunities where the hands are otherwise occupied. Against a standing foe, kicks are best directed against the legs and hip. This will slow the enemy down and may cause them to fall,
The actions learnt from kicks may also be used to rapidly move your feet to manoeuvre or trip a foe.
Bayonet attacks against high targets may be followed by a kick to a low target from either the front or rear leg. Defending against the high attack with the bayonet may expose targets beneath rib-cage level. Kick or knee the legs, hips, tailbone or testicles. A front thrust kick to just below the heart may be possible.
The front stance of karate, and its equivalents in other styles, is not just for punching and parrying. It may also be used to move into grapples, takedowns or throws. Position the lead leg so it prevents the foe compensating as you unbalance them.
When using a forward head butt, the upper part of the head rather than the forehead should be used to strike. This area is centred around the hairline, for those of you that are not yet balding.
If striking to the side with the head, impact using the area at hairline level above the temples.
When possible, the force from a headbutt comes not from neck movement, but from the motion of the entire body. “Back-heel” applies to headbutts just as much as it applies to linear punches.
A butt with the back of the head may be used against someone who grabs you from behind. Striking area is the back of the skull, the face from the eyes down the preferred targets. In practice, hitting with a particular region of the skull and against a particular target is difficult in such conditions.
The back of the skull may be used when in front of an enemy. If in a clinch and your head is lower than your attacker’s hit upwards with your head, straightening your legs for more power.
Headbutts may be used on targets other than the face. When grabbing an enemy’s legs from behind, butt the small of the back or tailbone to encourage them to fall.
Butting into the stomach or chest is also possible, although the chances of a counter against the neck or face are higher.
If both hands are busy controlling an arm, the head may be butted just above or into the side of the elbow.
A friend of mine used to advocate treading on someone’s foot before delivering a headbutt.
A variation is to place your weight on the foe’s foot and drive your knee into the front of his knee. The knee is unable to bend and may take damage or the foe may fall. Combine this with other techniques to unbalance the foe.
a time to plant and a time to uproot, a time to weep and a time to laugh, a time to play with your precious bloody phone and a time to look where you are going and at what is around you. Amen!
Never walk with your hands in your pockets. If your hands get cold, carry gloves. If you trip or are pushed, you will not be able to save yourself. Attacking someone with their hands in their pockets is a simple matter of hugging them and throwing them down hard.
Never stop on public stairs. It is bad manners and inconsiderate if nothing else. Some people have bad legs or feet and need to be within reach of the handrail even if they do not need to constantly hold it.
The palm heel, knife hand and hammer fist must become your primary weapons. The chances of injuring your hands when using these strikes is greatly reduced. Save closed fist punches for softer target areas of the body. Think of this as “hard against soft and soft against hard” if you wish, although being on the receiving end of a well thrown palm strike is unlikely to feel that soft.
The eye jab/finger spear is one of the fastest of distraction and opening techniques. Some people are reluctant to use this technique and in many cases it may be considered excessive force.
Placing your open hand over the foe’s eyes (such as “Eagle’s Alien”) is an alternative. Variations of this may be used from the side or behind in situations where a finger spear could not. Speed is the key to this technique so you must learn to apply it with your hand and arm relaxed.
Illustrations or photographs in martial arts books often exaggerate the distances between fighters for clarity. Occasionally you will encounter an illustrated technique that will not work at realistic ranges
Techniques are sometimes taught as “long range”, “medium range” and “short range”. In reality, engagement may change from long range to short range in a fraction of a second. Relying mainly on long range techniques probably will not work outside an action movie.
There will be times when it is necessary to attack rather than wait for an aggressor to make the first move. Some self-defence students and martial artists are at a loss how to proceed since they have mainly been taught defensive reactions. Psychologically they may have formed the impression that attacking may make them vulnerable, since most of their drills have been “attacker does this so you defeat him using…” Being able to attack effectively and realistically will also make their classmate’s training better.
Defensive techniques such as peng-hinge and long har ch’uan may also be used to knock aside an enemy’s guard to clear the way for the attacks.
Once you commit to an attack, keep attacking as long as you can. Move in and keep on the pressure until it is safe to escape, you need to defend or evade, or the threat is neutralized.
It has become a common trope in movies and on TV. A woman attempts to help someone else who is being attacked. She jumps into the back of the attacker, her feet leaving the ground.
Never attempt this in real life. It is ineffective and you may be thrown and land hard.
If the target presents itself, stomp the calf of his rearward leg. Read my books and learn the reverse punch against his kidneys, or the palm heel against his coccyx.
If he falls, jump or stomp on his legs before you run away.
Even if an attacker is much larger than you, use what weight you have. If he tries to lift you, go limp to become deadweight and kick your legs around to hurt anything you can contact. If the rapist falls, use your body weight by jumping or stomping on him. Leave him unable to get up and run after you.
The primary target areas on the centreline approximate the supposed positions of the chakras.
1. The genitals (front), coccyx (back). The CV1 point lies between the two on the perineum.
2. Sacral region/Tan tien (front): a little below the navel. Join of spine and pelvis top (back)
3. Solar plexus (front). First lumbar vertebrae (back): Where spine joins bottom of rib cage.
4. Heart/middle of sternum (front). Spine over heart (back)
5. Throat region (front) Spine at base of skull (back)
6. Forehead/Glabella (front). Back of skull.
7. Top of head/Bregma.
Note that attacking some of these targets forcefully may cripple, maim or kill your foe. Use only when there is a genuine threat to life.
Strikes to the kidneys may be highly effective, so learn their position.
From the rear, strike the soft areas between the top of the pelvis and bottom of the rib cage, lateral to the spine. From the side, strike the same area at the level where the waist is narrowest (presuming the foe does not have a “spare tire”).
These strikes actually target the nerve complexes in the region of the kidney. If using a sharp weapon you must know the physical location of the kidneys. The actual kidneys sit above the waist, partially covered by the lower ribs. Stab upwards under the bottom ribs from the rear or rearward side.
Is the threat you are being taught to defend against likely and realistic, or is it just there to show a clever counter. Are there simpler options?
A constant of older and lower quality self-defence manuals is techniques against someone who stands in front of you attempting to strangle you. I call this the “Frankenstein monster” attack. Recognise that this is highly unlikely. If you are strangled from the front, it is likely you are also being pushed up against a wall, or on your back with the attacker on top of you. Will the taught defence still work? What will?
An overhead knife or axe attack is more likely, but may not start with the attacker helpfully raising the weapon above their head while still several yards away. You may not have time for the recommended arm catch and throw technique.
“A punch starts with the toes” (or the back-heel)
To separate two individuals in a clinch: Place your hands together as though in prayer and insert them between the men’s faces.
Simultaneously covering each man’s eyes with a palm may cause them to flinch back.
If this fails, the edge of each hand may be placed to apply pressure against the throats or upward, under each nose. Be wary of bringing a hand into a position where it might be bitten when using the latter option.
If the above methods do not work, return your hands to the prayer position. Drop your weight down and bring your hands and arms down across theirs.
Arms crossed over your chest has been suggested as a good “ready” stance, particularly when being “interviewed for a fight”. On the positive side, it places the arms in a good position to respond to attacks. On the downside, this body posture may project the impression of insecurity and nervousness, encouraging the potential aggressor.
The same criticism also applies to positions with one hand on your chin or near your mouth.
Raising the forearm with an action like brushing back the hair over your ear is a useful defensive technique against circular punches at the end. Sometimes described as “attempting to smell your own armpit”.
Combine with ducking and appropriate body movement away from the attack. The other forearm may be brought up to shield the other side of the head.
If you move towards an attacker this basic arm motion may also be used to deliver an upward elbow strike to the chin or face.
The motion may also be used to break a wrist grab, although the “under and outside” method is preferred. Even if the grip is not broken, moving the hand up to your ear may pull the foe off-balance towards you. Use your other hand appropriately!
The opportunity for using some elbow strikes can be brief as it takes very little time for a foe to move from “out of range” to clinching and grappling range.
Use an open palm as a rangefinder as an enemy closes distance. When the palm makes contact with his upper chest immediately bend the elbow and move forward to deliver an upward elbow strike to the chin.
Cloth can be surprisingly effective at resisting knife cuts. Small knives (i.e. those that are not kukris or machetes) should always attack with the point first against clothed areas. This should be practised against bare flesh targets too, since a penetrating attack is likely to do more effective damage than a slash.
To cut a throat, stab into the side of the throat first then cut outward. Pulling back the head moves the major blood vessels back so would need a deep cut or slash to reach them. Better to stab in and cut outward.
If you cannot access the throat area, stab up under the ear, down from the suprasternal notch, down behind the clavicle or upwards just under the sternum or into a kidney.
Knives for anti-personnel use should be selected on the basis of their point and suitability for thrusting attacks. For more general field and survival uses, the ability to chop, slice, carve and cut is a higher priority.
If you can slip to a foe’s outside gate, try a headslap.
Swing your relaxed outermost arm upwards, parallel to the foe’s back. As you reach shoulder height convert the motion to an inward horizontal slap impacting the back or side of the head. The more relaxed you keep your body, the more velocity and power this attack will have.
Many fracas involve pushing and shoving. Most fighting styles fail to fully utilize this as an attack. Tai chi uses push like a double palm heel strike. It can often be utilized when in very close proximity to a foe. It may also be used using a hand and a forearm, or both forearms.
Step forward with one foot, utilizing body motion and back heel to generate power.
Push is often used against the foe’s ribs, with force delivered at a slight upward angle. This exploits the elasticity of the foe’s ribs to help bounce them away.
Tai chi often has the hands held in a configuration as though holding an invisible ball. This has a number of applications. One is used to seize the foe’s head. Power and movement from the hips and waist may then be used to twist the neck or unbalance and throw the foe. This is a useful technique if you are taller than your foe.
If your hands are in “hold the ball” and you bring the palms together this action may be used to clamp an arm between them. Slide the hands apart laterally to transition into an arm lock.
Hold the ball may also be used to bring the palms together to use the tai chi technique of press. This may be used to strike and push in confined positions when push would not be practical.
A similar technique has both palms towards the foe, one on top of the other.
When you manoeuvre to the outside gate, hook your palms over the foe’s shoulders and pull downwards and back by making your elbows heavy. This is an adaptation of the opening move of the tai chi form.
Position your legs so the foe cannot step back to regain balance, or kick at his legs to further unbalance him.
Many techniques suggested for dealing with a knife attack or other threats involve catching the attacker’s arm in a wrist grab. Grabbing accurately and firmly may be difficult to achieve in practice.
Hooking your palm over a limb is easier to apply and gives you some measure of temporary control. The forearm may be used in the same manner. Counterpressure from the other hand or forearm may be used to increase control.Counter to an overhead club attack.
If a foe raises their right arm high to use a club, a possible move is to duck in and headbutt to the underarm region. At the same time, attack to hit their solar plexus or sub‑sternal region with a hook punch, palm strike or hammerfist.
You will be in a position where it is difficult to strike you with the club, and most blows will have little power.
Immediately after the attempted torso strike, slip your head behind him and hug him around the chest or over his left shoulder and against his neck.
From this position, use a hip/cross buttock throw.
Variations: Hit under the arm with the shoulder rather than your head. Duck under the arm before moving closer to the body. Use your inner arm to push his chin upward or hook around his left arm to to clamp it to his side.
When studying a technique proposed for use against a knife or club, always be aware of what the foe’s other hand may do.
There is little point controlling their weapon arm if it puts you in a position where the other hand can strike your kidney.
It may be possible for the foe to easily transfer the weapon to their free arm.
Many techniques you may encounter are too complicated. Remember KISS! Will as simpler set of actions be as or more effective?
Real fights often end up with both parties on the ground. Being practised in groundwork techniques is prudent, although some are derived from combat sports and may not work if knives are present.
In most situations, it is foolish to willingly go to ground. Even if you think a confrontation is one-to-one, your foe may have friends nearby. They will happily kick you when you are down if you have given them the opportunity.
Tai chi techniques such as peng/p’eng utilize the forearm and back of the hand. In addition to being used for parrying, this is a useful close-range technique that may be used to push a foe away or off balance.
The forearm may also be used as a striking weapon, either against the body, the throat or an attacking limb.
A strike with the back of the hand may be converted into one with the knife-edge of the hand or hammer-fist when possible.
When grappling, do not interlace your fingers. This may result in injury if a hold is forced open. Hook your hands together by the fingers, or use one of the palm across palm techniques used in various wrestling styles. Or grab one of your wrists or forearm with the other hand.
When doing press-ups or performing “the Plank”, use closed fists. This is better for your wrists and helps condition your hands for punching.
Concentrate the weight on the first two knuckles if the fists are horizontal, the lower two if vertical.
Point-blank is the distance at which a target of a certain size may be hit without significant holdover or hold-under. Point-blank range to hit a tank is much greater than that for a squirrel!
Point-blank does not mean “close-range” or “short-range”. Most people getting something wrong does not make it right.
Many weapon-ammunition-target systems have point-blank ranges in the hundreds of metres.
Concealment prevents you being seen, Cover stops bullets.
An unarmoured vehicle such as a police cruiser offers concealment but very little cover.
Only the engine block is likely to provide any useful cover against gunfire.
Shooting from behind a car door looks cool, but…
If the enemy is shooting, your priority must be finding cover rather than shooting back. If nothing is within sprint range, go prone and exploit any microterrain. Even a street kerb may provide some cover.
Always shoot from cover if possible. If in a door, use the door jamb.
Seek any cover if you have to reload or deal with a weapon malfunction.
There are times to use the sights and a perfect stance, and times to snap-shoot. You need both skills and the wisdom to know when to use which. “Shooting to Live” (Fairbairn & Sykes), the hand gun chapters of “Kill or Get Killed” (Rex Applegate) and “Shooting to Kill” (G.A Elliot) should be essential reading.
There is little point in having a fast-draw if you cannot accurately snap-shoot. If you have time to line up sights and take a stance, you have time to draw normally and avoid the risk of a fumble.
Movies and TV shows often show a character about to enter a room with their gun held muzzle up. This makes for a nice tight dramatic shot.
In real life, keep your muzzle down. If a foe is immediately inside the room they may grapple you to prevent you bringing your firearm to bear. If your muzzle is down you may still fire at their legs, which can be distracting.
The “Lethal T” is a target usually described as a line drawn between the temples and down the centre of the torso.
The vertical of the T actually represents the spine, so is actually down the centre of the back rather than the front or the central axis of the torso. The crossbar may be visualized as a circlet around the brow.
Shooting “centre of mass” (as most people interpret this) is likely to miss the Lethal T unless directly before or behind the foe.
To the visualization of the Lethal T one should also imagine the “vital ball”. This is a 15 to 20 cm sphere within the torso at armpit height.
Shots fired at armpit level of a foe are most likely to hit a vital area. From certain angles such shots will pass through the arm openings of body armour.
Targeting the Lethal T and vital ball is for relatively short ranges where there is sufficient time to aim available.
In combat, range is often uncertain and targets are fleeting. Engagements are often within less than 200 to 300 metres distance.
Shooting high in combat is due to a number of common factors, including shooter and target being at different elevations.
In such conditions, aim at where the foe’s belt buckle would be. This automatically leads a target if they are moving across your field of view or at an angle. If only the head is visible, shoot below chin-level.
At longer ranges, point-of-aim should be shoulder-height or towards the top of the head.
Zero iron sights on the bottom of a target. Scopes and reflex sights should be zeroed on the centre of target.
If you have any choice in the matter, zero your combat rifle to 200 metres. This will be more accurate at the ranges you are most likely to engage targets.
Zero a combat pistol to hit two inches high at 25 yards. At 100 yards the round will have dropped less than twelve inches from point of aim.
Handguns can be used accurately at longer ranges than many users realize. Put in the practice, and they may be used as emergency medium-range hunting or defensive weapons. While a .357 or 10mm shoots flatter than a .45, the difference is only a few inches and generally not significant at useful ranges.
When zeroing an unfamiliar weapon or one new to you, start at a few metres to ensure it actually puts rounds on the paper.
Take the stairs whenever you can. Be thankful you still have the health to do so.
For most of us, the finger jab only has sufficient power as a distraction technique. Learn to throw it with a relaxed arm and body to make it as fast as possible.
This action is worth learning since it has other applications such as making a parry or setting up a throw or takedown. A finger spear “shot” between a foe’s arm and torso might be used to apply an armlock, for example.
In the morning, before you shower, perform “the Plank” on your fists. Immediately after, stand and stretch your hands high above your head. Still stretching, twist your waist to face right and left.
Take several deep breaths to clear your airways.
Variation of the DURA throw (see “Crash Combat”): After ducking under the arm and placing your other hand in contact with the foe’s leg, do not attempt to lift the foe.
Instead, move forward, tilting the foe to move his weight and balance to his left.
Your hand against his calf or shin will prevent him stepping to compensate and he will fall to the side.
A straight limb can only be bent. A partially bent limb may be straightened or bent further, as needed.
Very close? Your shoulder, chest, back, hips, thighs and knees may all be used to bump, strike or knock the foe off balance.
A soft-point or hollow-point load should meet three criteria:
1. The round should be capable of reliably feeding through the mechanism of the weapon using it.
For a revolver or derringer, this may simply be a requirement for the round to fit in the chamber and stay there until fired. Recoil should not case the casing to ride back and foul the gun’s mechanism, for example.
For a round that must feed from a magazine and through a self-loading or other mechanism, the requirements may be more stringent. The bullet must not be deformed or misshapen by loading or firing.
2. The round must have a high chance of reliably expanding at the velocities it is being used at by the gun/ammunition system.
If the round is unlikely to expand, you may be better off shooting solid rounds such as FMJ or semi-wadcutter.
3. Both expansion and penetration is required.
If a round does expand, it should still have sufficient penetration to reach vital organs.
If your hollow-point or soft-point loads give inadequate penetration, you should consider other loads, and be open to the idea that you may need to use non-expanding ammunition.

Survival and Bushcraft

Placing a net or camouflage cloth cover on your headgear does not make it camouflaged.
Not Camouflaged!
Wearing an outfit of the latest fashionable camouflage pattern does not make you camouflaged.
A few token streaks of camo paint on your face does not make you camouflaged.
“Uniform” is the antithesis of “camouflaged”.
Chest rigs and other load-bearing gear intended for field use should have textilage attached to break up its shape. Provision to add natural materials such as foliage should also be included.
For a general purpose survival/hunting .22LR rifle, zero to 35 yards/33 metres. This will give you a point-blank shot against the smallest of game at most practical hunting ranges. Targets far enough away to require hold-over will probably not be visible under usual field conditions.
You would not parachute without a reserve chute. Always have backups, be it the files on your computer, a means of self-defence or a resource for survival.
Having survival items tightly packed or integrated into objects like bracelets makes it more difficult to access them when you really need them. Always assume you will be tired, cold and wet.
Using paracord as boot laces is often suggested. Most miss out the vital detail that if you do use such laces as a source of cordage, you must gut the cord into outer and inner and use one of these to keep your boots on.
Stock up on survival/space blankets, disposable lighters and waterproof ziplock bags. Buy in bulk, you will find many uses for them. A 100m reel of paracord is also a good investment.
In any outdoor coat, have a survival blanket and disposable lighter, at the minimum. A hank of cotton string can serve as cordage or tinder.
A spare pair of gloves and spare hat in a pocket are also prudent.
A hiking pole or walking staff have too many useful applications to list here. Spears may also be used for many of these tasks. Equipping yourself with one should be a high priority in rural terrain.
A pole or staff will be more comfortable to use if it is long enough that your elbow may be bent at 90 degrees when using it.
A walking staff should be under six feet to allow it to easily navigate doorways. Five foot/1.5 metres is good. Some say as high as your eyebrow, your chin, breastbone etc.
To a pole or staff add a couple of metres of cordage and wrap it LOOSLY around the shaft. This cordage will be readily accessible when needed and may be used as a carrying sling to carry the pole when it cannot carry you.
Many a good movie and novel has been made about survivors trekking to safety.
In most situations, you are better staying with the vehicle or wreckage if possible. Locate resources and construct signals.
Your chances are better if more than one person knows your travel plan and ETA.
If you judge a knife by how well it cuts rope, you will end up with a knife that is a great rope cutter! A survival knife needs to be able to work wood and prepare game and fish.
Only two types of people are injured by their own tools. Those who are unfamiliar with them, and those who are too familiar with them.
Treat all tools with caution and respect.
Despite what you may see on youtube, never cut towards a body-part!
A hunting sling is easily constructed or improvised. Realistically, it will take weeks and probably months of practice before you are accurate enough to be able to hunt small game with a sling.
It is probably more practical to hone your skill at throwing stones by hand.
One of the first survival hunting weapons to construct is a throwing baton. Carve or abrase one end to a point, the other to a wedge. It may then also be used as a digging stick or also serves as a club to dispatch fish or for batonning a knife.
After a throwing baton and a spear, the construction of bolas and Apache/rabbit-stars should be considered.
Apache stars should be big enough to prevent a hit rabbit entering its burrow. Construct from two sticks of about half a metre/18 inches/one cubit length. If possible, use the woodsaw of a penknife to cut a square notch in the centre of each before binding them together.
Bolas are of little use in wooded terrain.
Do not reach your hand anywhere you cannot see. There may be thorns or things that bite and sting. Use your throwing baton, digging stick or staff instead.
The darts offered for commercially produced blowguns are not suitable for hunting, even those designated as “broadheads”.
A survivor is unlikely to have suitable poisons available so must use more effective projectiles. Darts from sewing needles and paperclips are not going to work!
Darts need to be long to achieve sufficient penetration. Hunting darts used by some indigenous peoples may be nine inches and resemble half-sized arrows.
Darts more effective than the shop-bought junk have been constructed from 3 mm to 5 mm diameter bamboo “satay” skewers or dowels, 10 to 18" long. Coat hanger wire has also been used effectively. Darts made from three inch nails have been used effectively on very small game. Something similar may be made from local natural materials or wreckage.
The tail is just a paper cone( or birch bark) or a blob of cotton wool (sheep's wool, bird or thistle down etc). This design is pretty easy to make in the field.
Blowguns may also be used to project pellets against small game.
If improvising a blowgun, an internal bore diameter of about half an inch is desirable, and a length of more than a metre.
If you do not have a pipe, a semi-circular section channel may be cut in two pieces of material and the halves bound together. Use a taunt string to ensure both channels are cut straight.
Snow on the ground? Footing unstable? Use a stick! So many injuries each winter could be avoided if everyone owned a decent pair of boots, knew how to walk on ice, and used a stick or hiking pole when it was needed.
My girlfriend was about to embark on a long journey by plane, train and bus.
She called for me to produce my stock of ziplock bags. Into on bag went several handfuls of “wet‑wipes”.
Washrooms are likely to be few and far between, and often occupied. With a modest supply of wet‑wipes she can freshen‑up when she wants.
When batoning, use the section of the edge nearest the hilt, unless this part is serrated or scalloped. Also not a good technique to use on double-edged knives.
When batoning, hit the back of the blade with a wooden object, not one of metal or stone. Use a hatchet handle rather than the back of the head.
Black is not a good camouflage colour. Calling it “SWAT-black”, “chaos-black”, “ninja-black”, “tactical-black” or such does not make it so.
A bath is relaxing, but not the best way to get clean. You effectively end up soaking in your own dirt!
At the end of a bath, finish by having a shower if possible. A shower is a more efficient time to wash your hair.
When using a seatbelt‑cutter/hook‑knife, cut away from you at an oblique angle. This creates some tension, helping the edge cut. If possible, pull on the strap(s) with the other hand to create tension.
A seatbelt‑cutter/hook‑knife or similar may be used to cut open clothing with less chance of injuring a casualty. They should be included with any larger medical kit, and attached to the outside of the bag with cord.
A cheap butane lighter lights more fires, more easily, than the equivalent weight in matches.
Get the type with a striking wheel. Once the gas has run out it will still produce sparks.
Invest in a number of these before you spend your money on more exotic fire-lighting gadgets.
Your primary survival/emergency items should be carried on your person. You are more likely to remove a jacket or coat than your trousers. Your trouser belt and trouser pockets should carry a useful assortment of items.
Tobacco tins or mint tins are not the best means to carry your emergency items. Often they are such masterpieces of packing that items pop out when opened and are lost in the grass.
There is a danger of thinking their contents are all that is needed.
They carry too few of some useful items, and cannot carry some very useful gear.
Tins are bulky and unpleasant if you sit or fall on them. They are not well suited to being carried in trouser pockets. Carrying them in a belt pouch or jacket pocket is contrary to their intended function.
The only merit of a tin is that it can hold and heat a very small amount of water, possibly to attempt to sterilize a needle or scalpel blade. There are other ways to do this, and it is unlikely the tin will hold enough water to boil the item for an adequate time.
  When in doubt, step out! Feeling flustered, or uncertain? Don't be proud or stubborn! Let someone else take over and take a break.
If on your own, sit and think about the problem calmly and logically. Or don’t think about it, practice tying some knots or brew-up, and the answer may come to you.
Carry a metre of clear plastic tubing with your primary water bottle or bladder. The bladder may have a drinking tube, but you do not want to take this to bits if you can avoid it.
A length of tube may be used to reach sources of water that are difficult to reach.
If using a solar still or transpiration trap, a tube may be used to drink collected water without disrupting the apparatus.
Carry additional tubing if planning to travel in desert or arid areas.
A solar still may be most effective in non-desert conditions. In desert soil it may produce only half a litre or so of water per day. This may not justify the effort and water lost digging it.
You will probably need multiple solar stills.
Yield may be increased by urinating in the hole or adding salt water, vehicle radiator water, greywater, blood (not your own!) or most other water not safe to drink.
In a vehicle, carry a length of tubing suitable for syphoning fuel. Better still, equip your vehicle with the sort of plastic hand pump that is primed with a squeeze bulb. Save yourself a mouthful of fuel.
When a chimpanzee cannot drink directly from a source of water, such as in the fork of a tree, it makes a ball of leaves or grass. It dunks the ball in the water, then squeezes out the water into its mouth. Learn from the chimp.
Some tribes of chimps signal each other by banging on the trunks or the buttresses of trees. This sound will carry further than your voice or whistle.
Bang on aircraft fuselages, vehicle bodies, boat hulls, bridge railings, refuse, debris etc.
During the siege of a fortress during World War One, French defenders had to resort to licking condensation off the walls.
A small piece of clean sponge added to your water bottle carrier takes up little room and is of negligible weight. It may be used to mop up condensation or morning dew. Keep this separate from the sponge you use to wash your mess kit, unless you like the taste of detergent!
Collecting dew with bandanas tied around ankles
Walking in the woods, or just down the park? Take along a field guide, preferably the sort that lists if a plant or tree is edible or has medicinal or other uses. It is easier to learn to identify specific plants if you have a memory to put them in context.
Illustrations of natural shelters often show the “rafters” as a lattice of horizontal and vertical sticks.
Experiment with laying the “rafters” obliquely. Most will only need to be lashed at the top, and the bottom end may be driven into the dirt.
When constructing a natural shelter, do not underestimate the weight the main supports and ridgepole must take. Several inches of wet insulation or a foot or so of snowfall is not light!
A ridgepole should be of sound (not rotten) wood and about four inches/ten centimetres diameter. Ridgepole and primary supports should be able to take your bodyweight, at least.
Conveniently Y-shaped forked branches are not as common as many wilderness manuals make out. A join between a branch and side branch will often serve instead.
Attach tent pegs to your shelter using a lark’s head knot. Easy to make, even when fingers are cold and numb. With a lark’s head knot the pegs remain attached when you pull them up. Useful if you need to vacate an area quickly.
Keep a stout, medium-sized slot screwdriver with your tent pegs. This may be used to poke holes for pegs when you do not want to attract attention by hammering. Also used as a crossbar handle to pull-up stubborn pegs. Can itself be used as a tent peg. Paint or tape over the handle if a more natural colour is needed.
Put on a fleece under your coat. Put a hat, scarf and gloves in the lower pockets. You may have trouble closing it up!
Buy outdoor coats and casual jackets at least a size bigger than you need. Room for insulation when it is cold. In warmer weather, room for air to circulate.
Zig zag when ascending steep slopes.
Naismith’s rule is that you average 5 km/h (1.4 m/s) plus an additional minute for each 10 metres ascended.
If you ascend a 45° slope making a zig zag of 45° across the direction of travel, you have to walk 40% further, but it is the equivalent of walking that distance on a slope of only 30°.
This is equivalent to ascending a slope only 57% as high!
It is also a lot easier on the ankles!
If you set a ridgeline for a poncho, basha or tarp, rainwater will run down it to drip from the lowest part. This will usually be inside your shelter.
Just inside the sheet edge, tie to the ridgeline a “drip-wick”, a length of cord with one end hanging down. Do this at each end of the sheet.
You may use simple string for this, or pieces of grass or leaves. You may use a simple overhand, clove hitch or lark's head knot
Water running down the ridgeline will be diverted and run down the hanging cord or plant stalk.
This trick is sometimes seen performed with a piece of stick pushed through the ridgecord. This leaves a section of exposed line between the stick and the sheet edge that may still allow water into the shelter.
Consume from the outside, inwards.
Use the water, food and resources in your pack before that in your webbing. Use items in your webbing before those in your coat pockets. You coat contents before the items in your trousers. Likewise, use supplies in your vehicle before your pack. Your base camp supplies or stuff in the local area before your vehicle stores.
If you use any “inner” items, such as ammunition, fully replenish from “outer” stocks as soon as possible.
If you must use matches, find a watertight, large mouthed container for them. Do not forget to include the striker strip(s). Cotton wool stops them rattling and may be used as tinder.
Strike a wooden match by pushing it along the striker strip rather than pulling. Less chance of the matchstick breaking. Fingertip may be placed just behind matchhead for support. Best method for wooden matches, may not work with paper/books of matches.
If windy, face into wind. Hand holding matchbox forms wind-shield for striker and matchstick in palm. Help flame catch by tilting matchhead down into palm so flame catches stick.
Strike a match, light a candle! To save wasting matches/lighter fuel, use the candle to get your tinder burning. Hold a small candle handy between two fingers when striking a match. A pack of birthday cake candles may be distributed between your various fire kits, EDC etc.
I once saw the advice “to learn camouflage, read a good photography book and break all the rules for taking a good photo!”
Camouflage is often taught as being a product of shape, shine, shadow, silhouette, movement, noise and smell.
If you maximise rather than minimise these properties, you have the essence of effective emergency signalling!
In very cold conditions, store water bottles cap down. Ice will form in the uppermost (bottom) part. Water near the cap will remain liquid.
Melting snow for water can be problematic.
The snow at the bottom of the container will melt but the water will be absorbed by the snow above. The resultant airspace cause the pot to burn.
Squeeze as much air as possible out of the snow and gradually add very small amounts to the warming pan, ensuring liquid water is never fully soaked up.
Better still, make snow kebabs! Squeeze balls of snow on to the length of a rod or stick. Position angled sticks before a heat source so the melted snow drips into a collection vessel.
A pot of water allowed to freeze overnight warms the shelter by its heat loss. Ice takes less fuel to melt than snow, so reheat the pot when you need water. Much easier than trying to remove ice frozen within a water bottle.
You can light a fire with batteries and steel wool. If you happen to have these items, by all means make use of them. Foil or wire may also be used.
This does NOT mean you should be carrying batteries and steel wool just for fire lighting!
Rusted steel wool will not burn so well. If you (bizarrely) carry steel wool and a battery in a survival tin, you need to consider galvanic corrosion.
That condoms may be used to carry water is commonly reported. Very few sources actually mention the filled condoms are much easier to handle and transport if placed inside a sock first!
You will need some means to pour water into the condom. Very little water enters if you submerge it.
The condom may alternately be used to keep matches or tinder dry.
A Zip-lock bag may be used to carry water instead of a condom. Reinforce the bottom with duct tape. The side seams may also be taped.
Until needed to carry water the bag serves to keep some of your emergency items dry. My EDC pocket pouch easily fits in mine.
A “V” shape is the ground-to-air code for “Require Assistance”.
This may be an easier shape to create on the ground than “SOS”. Straight lines are rare in nature so this may be more distinct.
Each arm should be at least a metre wide and at least six metres long.
Replace the metal rings of a wire saw with loops of cord. Add fishing swivels between the wire and loops if it does not already have these.
Some things you want to be easily seen so you do not lose them. Loops can be made from trainer/shoe/boot laces. These may be found in colours such as red, orange, bright blue, neon green and yellow.
Wire saws work best if the wire is kept relatively straight when sawing, rather than looped around something.
A branch may be bent to convert a wire saw into a bow-saw.
Dark objects absorb heat better than light ones. If attempting to ignite scrap paper with a magnifying glass, create a dark spot with your EDC Sharpie. Charcoal or dirt may be used instead.
Cotton wool/tampon or other materials you are attempting to light by sparks etc, may also be darkened first.
Ed’s Wisdom:
1. A tool left in camp is no tool at all. Trying to save a few ounces is a mug’s game.
2. Jerky is serious trail food, especially at the turnaround point. The more highly flavored the better. Having a bag to pass around makes you popular.
3. Every hike is longer than you think.
No. 3 is the really important one, in particular above 9500 feet. No, goddammit, I am NOT getting old!
Around the opening of your sleeping bag liner sew material that is distinctive to both sight and touch.
This lets you locate the opening of your liner by touch.
It also prevents the maid at a hostel mistaking your liner for hostel bedding.
Categories
Phillosoph

Crash Combat Fourth Edition Out Now!

I am pleased to announce that the Fourth (and final!) Edition of Crash Combat has now become available.

This version has been extensively expanded, being about 50% longer than the first edition.
More content, extra illustrations, more techniques, new techniques and generally much more book for your money.
In addition, much of the book has been rewritten and restructured so information is more easily assimilated and learnt.
While Crash Combat was originally written for a military context, it remains relevant to any individual wishing to learn to protect themselves in this dangerous and uncertain world.
Visit the Author Spotlight for my other books.
May be purchased direct from Lulu.com in either print or epub format.
It will take a few more days or more for this version to appear with other retailers.
Buying from Lulu costs you less and more of the money goes to the author.
Categories
Phillosoph

British Army Mess Tins

Many decades ago, back in my student days, I was cooking something one weekend. I had decided to make a sauce to go with my meal, so I needed to brown some flour.
Running short of pans, I put into service a set of British Army mess tins I had with my collection of camping items.
As the flour browned, there was a sudden flash of silver. What looked suspiciously like molten solder appeared at the bottom of a pan!British Army mess tins
Needless to say, I decided to do without my sauce, and the mess tins too.
It was many decades before I even considered getting another set of British Army mess tins. Authors such as Kephart had sold me on the wisdom of having a cooking vessel you could hang above a fire when needed.
I was in no hurry to get a new set, since I don’t actually rate the design that highly.
One website gloated that a design that has been in service for 70 years must be good, oblivious to the fact that they had already noted the 37-pattern replaced a design that had been in use for 150 years. Sadly, armies often keep bad stuff in service for a long time too!
About the only virtue of the British Army mess tins was they were a good shape to fit inside a pouch or rucksack side‑pocket.
Mess tins in a 37 pattern pack
Given the tendency of many soldiers to overload their belts, that is a questionable virtue at best.
However, I felt that my series of articles on mess kits was not really balanced unless these the British Army mess tins were included.
The British Army mess tins were introduced as part of the 1937 pattern equipment. Prior to this, the British soldier had used a D-section pail-type mess kit much like that which continued to be used by most other armies.
Interestingly, the mess tins were originally intended as a pack-carried item rather than belt kit.
Early issues of the 37 pattern were aluminium.
During the Second World War, a version made from tin-plated mild steel was issued to conserve aluminium reserves for other purposes such as aircraft manufacture.
Around 1944, aluminium mess tins began to be issued again, and this is the material that has been used for post-war issue.
There are minor differences between the pre-1944 and post-1944 aluminium, but for convenience I will call both 37/44 pattern.
British Army mess tins
When researching this blog, I came across someone trying to sound clever saying they preferred the stainless steel version when they could find them. There was no stainless steel British Army 37/44-pattern mess tin issued.
Many British Army influenced nations copied the design.
The Indian version was oval and had the handles on the longest side. This may have been more practical with respect to handling and cleaning.
Indian oval mess tins
Another notable variation was the Australian version, which had sideways-folding handles and was shallower.Australian mess tins
Copies, often of less quality materials, were also manufactured. For many years I assumed that this was the explanation for my melting example. Now I learn more about the topic, I wonder if I had purchased some wartime tinned examples. I seem to recall they may have had “fullers” in the sides.
I recall reading that the way to identify a “knock-off” was to try to push in one side. If it popped out again, it was legit. If the dent stayed, it was not.
Tales from the Supply Depot is a good source for the variations between different models. He offers the advice:
“These tins are very easily available, having been made continuously for over seventy years, and can be bought for a few pounds- the metal is far thicker and better quality than the cheap copies sold in camping shops so even if you are not a collector it is more sensible to invest in a second hand military set rather than a new civilian set as these are almost indestructible!”

Description

The 37/44 pattern consists of two rectangular pans with folding handles and rounded corners. One pan is slightly smaller than the other and will fit inside the larger. The smaller pan may be carried either bottom up or bottom down.
The pans actually look larger and bulkier than I recalled. The smaller one will comfortably hold a litre of water. The larger pan also takes a litre. You can squeeze nearly 200 mls more in, but the water level will be impractically close to the rim.
The capacity of my set is actually less than the capacity quoted by some vendors.
The two tins nest, although that is not so welcome if you do not have time to clean the outside of the smaller one.
Sometimes the larger tin was carried in the large pack and the smaller tin in a belt pouch or in a smaller backpack.
Some soldiers just made do with a single tin.
Supposably, the metal of the thin handles is a poor conductor of heat, so may be held without the need for gloves or bandana. I would be very cautious trying that.
The handles have no locking mechanism. If moved in certain directions, the handles of the mess tin will suddenly fold, usually dumping the tin’s contents.

Use

In the field, the mess tins were mainly used as simple water boilers.
They were either used to make tea, or to heat up the canned items from the 24 hour “ratpack”. For the latter duty, the cans were placed in the mess tin, water poured into the remaining space and brought to a boil for a few minutes. Using the hot water to make a drink was not recommended since it was contaminated with whatever was on the outside of the cans.
While I was shopping for a set of mess tins, I was bemused to see some vendors claiming they were “easy to clean”.
Many an old soldier would dispute that!
The corners were hard to get clean and the issued hexamine stoves often left the bottoms sooty and covered with hard to shift partially burnt fuel residue.
While “nesting cook kit” sounds like a good feature, the outsides of the inner vessels need to be very clean otherwise they contaminate the insides of the outer pots. You can wrap the inner vessels up, but this may make them too bulky to nest.
Using the mess tin just for water did cut down on some of the cleaning.
This was not the case when a unit was fed from a field kitchen. The mess tins were often the only receptacle available.
Some interesting culinary combinations were experienced as dessert was piled on top of the remains to the main course. Irish stew with custard, anyone?
The mess tins are probably a little large for the uses they were actually put to. That may be why the Australian model was of a lower capacity. The side-folding handles of the Aussie version are a clue to another flaw of the original.
The 37/44 mess tins cannot be hung over an open fire, like the “European”-style pails. The European mess tins are effectively small buckets, while the British mess tins are awkward to carry tea or water any distance.
The British Army mess tins are mainly designed to be used on stoves.
There are ways to use them over an open fire. Flat‑topped rocks may be employed, although likely to be wobbly. Bricks or logs with the top hewn flat are another possibility. Three or four 6 inch nails can also be used. Digging an L‑shaped hole in the side of a bank and building the fire at the bottom is another option.

Lids for Mess Tins

Combined with the Esbit cooker, the mess tin was not noted as particularly efficient.
The black build up on the bottom of mess tins was common, which may suggest incomplete combustion from using too much fuel.
Often the smaller tin was used as the boiling vessel and the larger tin placed over it to act as a lid.
It was not long before some companies started offering purpose built lids that could be used with the issue mess tins. These could also be used as frying pans, some examples even having non-stick coatings. One company even went as far as offering the mess tins with non-stick interiors too.
Back around the 1980s, many soldiers and survivalists regarded the mess tin lids as an essential bit of kit.
Original mess tin lid
It is rather surprising that such lids are now hard to find.
I have seen a non-stick set of mess tins, but it is not clear if these have the same size and proportions as the issue items.
Lids are much harder to find. I have only found one place offering them. The price was actually quite reasonable, so I purchased an example to test out for this review. Modern mess tin lid
The interior has a black coating, which may be non-stick. I have yet to cook with this item and find out if this is the case.
I got distracted by trying to fit the lid on the mess tins. It would not fit. The lid actually seemed to be a different shape to the large tin.
Careful measuring confirmed that the lid is exactly the same length as the large tin!
The rim of the lid was actually irregular. Perhaps it took a few dings going through the post, but the length of the bottom is still too small.
My current mess tins lack any numbers or identifying symbols, so may not be actual army issue, despite what the seller claimed. On the other hand, they appear brand-new rather than used. Their dimensions seem correct, however, so I suspect the fault is with the lid.
Careful use of a ball-peen hammer reshaped the lid rim so it is slightly bigger than the large tin. This also removed some of the black coating near the edges.
I can fit the lid over the large tin, but when the smaller tin is packed inside the lid will not stay in place unless packed inside a snug 85-pattern water bottle pouch. The handle of the lid is also very tight, and scores the outer surface of the lid when it is pulled out.
Definitely room for a better executed version!

Conclusion

Many regard the British mess tins as a classic. I am not one of them.
Personally, I think the British Army 37/44 pattern mess tin lacks versatility as a field cooking vessel and is somewhat oversized for the uses it is put to.
They are a good illustration of how the needs of a soldier may be very different to a camper or prepper who lacks a comprehensive support infrastructure.
There are some similar smaller cooking vessels that are commercially available, some with lids that fit!
I notice certain vendors are offering “Crusader Mess Tins”. This is an oval shape so hopefully easier to clean. It consists of a single pot with a lid/flying pan. I don’t know if these have become an official issue. The name is an obvious attempt to associate it with the Crusader canteen cups.

Mess Tin Survival Kit

In the first of my Survival Library posts, I recommended Lofty Wiseman’s “SAS Survival Handbook”.
As well as describing the tobacco tin-based survival tin, Wiseman also suggests a “survival pouch”, one of the main components of which is a mess tin into which most of the other components are packed.
Many readers will know that I have a number of criticisms of the traditional survival tin.
I don’t like all my eggs in one basket, nor do I want to carry emergency items by a means I am likely to be separated from. Jackets get taken off, bags get put down. That is why a certain proportion of my gear is in my trouser pockets and pouches on my trouser belt. This is more comfortable than a lumpy tin crammed in a pocket.
One of the criticisms of the survival tin is that the useful stuff it does have, it does not have enough of.
You could do worse than empty the contents of the survival tin into a mess tin, then add greater quantities of the useful stuff. You will need more than a handful of fishing hooks and matches. Why not join the 21st century and carry a lighter rather than matches? A space blanket, whistle, signal mirror, candles and a fresnel lens are all good additions. A mess tin in a pouch can pack a lot of genuinely useful emergency gear.
A mess tin can heat-treat a genuinely useful quantity of water.
The downside of this idea is that a mess tin-based kit is of no use if you stow it in your pack. You have to keep it on your person, and since it is somewhat bulky, this may not suit many of you.
Categories
Phillosoph

Debugging Your Bug-Out Bag: 4 Other Stuff

So far, this series has dealt with shelter, sleeping, clothing, food, water and cooking.
In what will probably be the final part of the series, I am going to look at a few other considerations.
Many of my other recommendations will echo those in my articles on foundation survival kits.

Making a List, Checking It Twice

In Part 2 I mentioned grabbing fresh food from the kitchen and adding it to your bag.
Realistically, it is not likely that everything you will want will be ready packed in your bag.
There may be important documents or personal items you will want to take with you.
There may be things you will want to do before you leave, if time permits. Turning the gas and water supply off will reduce the damage to the house that might occur while you are away, for example.
Sit down, and make a list of things you will want to do before bugging out. List things you will want to add to your bag, and their location. Then leave your list for a day or so. Other things are bound to occur to you.
Then reorganize your list by location. In the kitchen, you will need to do this, and this, and take this, for example.
Once you are happy with your list, sleep on it, then add anything else that occurred. Print it out in large font.
You may be stressed and hurried if you have to use it. Make it clear and easy to read.

Radio

Many BOB lists suggest having a radio receiver so that you may listen to weather reports and other emergency broadcasts.
For obvious reasons, such a radio should not be too heavy or bulky.
Examples that use a hand crank power source and/or solar charging are available. Many of these also act as flashlights and phone chargers.
If the device has solar charging, you may want to come up with a way to carry it where it gets its required dose of sunlight.
Make sure that any design you buy can receive the emergency broadcasts for the region and country that you will be operating it in.

Flashlight

You may have brought a 1000 candlepower “special forces” tactical flashlight that can survive a nuclear blast and immersion in the Marianas trench.
It won’t be much use if the battery is flat.
At least one of your light sources with your bug out bag should be hand cranked.

Fire

Have a fire kit in your pack. This will supplement the fire kit you carry on your person, some of which will be part of your EDC.
Hexamine blocks have a very long shelf life, so having a pack in your bag as firelighters or as an alternative fuel is a good idea.
The alcohol gel for your stove may also be used for firelighting.
Kukri, Mora Companion and Fire Kit.

Tools

Your survival knife(s), penknife etc should be carried on your person. The small pouch in the photo above contains a sharpening stone and a fire kit.
A hiking pole or staff is worth having.
The pack carries tools that are less often needed. Unless you are in the jungle, your machete will likely ride in or on your pack until needed.
If you live in the colder, wooded latitudes, an axe may be more useful than a machete. A three quarter or Hudson Bay model is often suggested as a good compromise between utility and portability.
Digging tools are carried in the pack and only transferred to one's person when use is expected.
A crowbar is useful in urban areas, and makes a passable digging stick.
As advised in Part 2 of this series, carrying some lengths of cordage of various types and sizes is prudent.

Wash Kit

Since we are talking about a 72 hour scenario, our wash kit should be very basic.
Toothbrush, small tube of toothpaste, half a bar of soap, one razor, perhaps a small plastic mirror and a microfibre flannel.
That is all you really need in a 72 hour emergency scenario.
All this will fit in a small drawcord mesh bag.
Fit the bag in a small sandwich box and you may use the box as a wash bowl.
A tenugui or microfibre towel rides elsewhere in the pack so that it can dry.
We are trying to keep our load light, so consider a children’s toothbrush, a cut down adult brush or one of the travel toothbrushes. Some of the latter come with a really tiny tube of toothpaste!
No shaving foam, you can use the soap. It is debatable if you actually need the razor in a 72 hour emergency scenario. You probably won’t be attending any job interviews!
You can survive 72 hours without shampoo (or use the soap!)
A stick of deodorant, however, may be appreciated if you share your shelter!
A supply of feminine hygiene items may need to be included in your BOB. These have alternate uses such as fire lighting or as wound dressings.

First Aid

Suggestions for first aid kits for bug out bags often go over the top.
I have seen recommendations that a bug out bag include a full stainless steel surgical kit, a couple of reference books on medicine and surgery (680 pages between them!), diethyl ether, saline solution, a thermometer and so on.
Your first aid kit is mainly there for cuts, grazes, sprained ankles and such.
My own travel kit, which I have used for trips of more than three weeks (504 hours!) is shown here. The lice comb may not be necessary for a 72 hour kit. I hope to never need it!
Some disposable gloves in a Zio‑lock bag and a CPR face shield might be useful additions.
Robert dePugh stated that the basis of a good first aid kit was water purification tablets, aspirin, soap and a toothbrush.
In addition to pain relief, aspirin can treat fevers, inflammation and cold and flu symptoms.
Soap is in your wash kit. It is a far better antiseptic than hand‐sanitizer or most other things you are likely to have available.

Use Soap and Water
Yes, Soap Is Better than Hand Sanitizer
No, Soap Is Not Infectious!

The toothbrush is probably also with your wash kit.
Some water purification tablets should be carried on your person, others with one of your water containers.
To that list I would recommend adding some plasters, alcohol wipes and a roller bandage.
A twisted or sprained ankle is no fun when you have a backpack, hence the roller bandage. In addition to conventional plasters, have a few feet of elasticated plaster tape that is useful for the minor cuts to the fingers that accompany careless knife use.
A little tin of Vaseline is also useful for chaps and chaffing.
Both the Vaseline and alcohol wipes may assist in fire lighting
If you expect combat, you should have shell dressings, a CAT tourniquet and an CI-IFAK kit, but these items are more useful carried on your person, not in your pack.
I am of the opinion that any activity that involves knives and hand tools should have some plasters readily available.
Likewise, any activity where guns or bows are involved should have some shell dressings and similar nearby.
If you take any personal medications, place them on your list and add them to your bag or clothing pockets when you bug out.
Your “internal medical kit” should be “fully stocked”. Ensure all relevant vaccinations are up to date.

Paperwork

Have a roll or two of toilet paper.
Put each in a Zip‑lock bag to keep them dry and carry a tube of hand‑sanitizer with one.
Your hand‑sanitizer should be 60 to 95% alcohol, both for its antiseptic properties and to ensure it is flammable. Sanitizer and toilet paper are both possible aids to fire lighting.
In addition to the items in the bug out bag, have a Zip‑lock bag with a number of paper napkins or sheets of toilet paper on your person. I have this in the right cargo pocket of my trousers.

Books

Whether to take any books in your BOB is up to you. Most books claimed to be “ideal for your bug-out bag” are nothing of the kind.
My travel emergency kit does include a pocket edition of the “SAS Survival Handbook”. Greenbank's “The Survival Handbook” or “AFM 64-5” are good alternatives.
A book on identifying edible plants in your area might be considered.

Repairs and Spares

Repairs and Spares were described in the article on rucksack packing.
You do not need the bulky “housewives” offered by some merchants.
You just need a couple of needles, already threaded with a metre or so of invisible thread. A couple of safety pins. A couple of rucksack buckles. A few metres of electrical and duct tape. Perhaps a couple of buttons, a neutral-coloured cloth patch and a tube of super glue. All these fit in a little Zip‑lock bag.
No need for folding scissors. I have a penknife with scissors on my belt and another on my keyring.
For heavier repairs I use dental floss. I have a reel of this in my EDC and also some in my wash kit. Ensure one of your needles has an eye large enough to take dental floss and thicker materials you might improvise.
Other items to include in your bug out bag: spare compass, goggles/sunglasses, spare glasses, plastic mirror for signalling, whistle, ear plugs, notepad, sunscreen, insect repellent.
Some of these items are backup or spares for items carried on your person.
A few extra space blankets may prove useful. Find room for several large plastic bags, and some additional Zip‑lock bags.
To Part One
Categories
Phillosoph

Survival Library: Chapter 7, The Pocket Outdoor Survival Guide

Today’s review is for “The Pocket Outdoor Survival Guide” by J.Wayne Fears.
I had not planned for this to be the next review. I got looking at a copy and burned right through it.
One of the merits of this book is that it is highly digestible. I read through it in a single (admittedly extended) lunch break.
This book is written specifically for outdoorsmen who might become lost in the woods. The premise is that such individuals are most likely to be found within 72 hours of the search being initiated.

Preparation

The first few chapters, logically enough, deal with preparations before your trip to ensure that a search is conducted should you not return by an expected time.
Give an itinerary to a responsible individual [or better still, several!].
A similar account of your intentions might be placed in a plastic bag and left under the windscreen wiper of the vehicle you used to reach the woods. Give it a label such as “For Attention after 24th April…”
A list of useful advice to include is given, including giving the make and sole pattern of the footwear you are wearing, which will be useful to trackers.
Although not suggested in the book, this idea might be extended by including a photograph of your actual boot soles. (Putting a worn sock in for the tracker dogs may be going too far, however!)
There is a brief summary of how a search and rescue may be conducted. I found the version of this in “Desert Survival” better.
Later in the book, how to deal with a member of your group going missing is covered, which is a subject many books do not cover.

Survival Kit

The section on survival kit does show some originality and fresh thought. He advises that one prepares for three unexpected extra days to any trip.
Fears’ personal, “two pound” kit is given as:
◦ (Coghlan’s) Tube tent
◦ Strike-anywhere kitchen matches in waterproof match safe
◦ Flashlight
◦ Fire starters [hexamine fuel blocks?]
◦ Signal mirror [Star Flash]
◦ Police whistle [actually a Fox 40 is suggested in the text]
◦ MPI Emergency Space bag
◦ Parachute cord – 50'
◦ Aluminum foil – 36" x 36"
◦ Insect repellent [sachet]
◦ Water purification tablets
◦ Pocket Survival Guide [Fears’ book]
◦ First Aid Kit
◦ Gallon Ziplock bag.
These items are in addition to a belt knife, map and compass, GPS, water canteen, personal medication and cell phone/two-way radio.
How this kit is carried is not made clear, other than it is packed inside the gallon zip-lock bag, which may also be used as a water carrier. [I suggest you reinforce the seams with duct tape]
The bulk of the kit would suggest that it is in some form of daypack. Some emergency items are best carried on one’s person should the daypack and survivor part company. A lot of my basic kit is in my trouser pockets or on my trouser belt.
Coghlans Tube Tent emergency shelter
The somewhat misnamed “tube tent” is an item not often included in survival kit lists. It seems to be a reasonably priced and useful item.
There are variants that have silver Mylar lining, and/or doors at the end. The silver-lined versions should probably be turned silver-side out in desert conditions.
Since the plastic is impermeable, condensation in these tube tents may be an issue if there is not a flow of air. However, one would want to partially block the ends to reduce draughts on the sleeper(s).
Leaves or similar could be piled underneath for more padding and insulation when sleeping.
Drip-wicks added to the suspension cord are recommended.
Fears echoes my own view that an emergency is no time to rely on gadgets or primitive skills to provide you with fire.
Fears suggests replacing the matches often since they “have a short shelf life”. This is not a concern that I have seen in other books.
My kitchen drawer has matches that must be more than fifteen years old and that still light. Perhaps out in the damp woods it is different, but a match safe that is genuinely waterproof should have some influence.
As regular readers know, I prefer a butane lighter or two and some candles for no-nonsense fire lighting.
While the Star Flash mirror is recommended in the book, other items will serve just as well without the high price tag.
Water purification tablets and insect repellent are sound additions, although oddly he only packs a single sachet of insect repellent alongside a whole bottle of purification tablets.
A small bottle of insect repellent would last several nights, and be very welcome should your stay be extended. Some insect repellents may be used for fire-lighting, remember.
The space bag is like a Mylar space blanket, but a closed bag. These used to be fairly common, but nowadays it is hard to find anything except the foil blanket.
A space blanket or two is a good substitution, and a blanket is somewhat easier to vent.
Heavier foil lined bags with a green or orange outer are on sale. These resemble an All-Weather blanket I have carried one of the latter in my daysack for decades. The blanket configuration is probably more versatile. It can be made into a cloak against the rain, for example.
Fears’ suggestions for a personal pocket first aid kit are much more practical than those in some other publications. I would suggest adding some aspirin and alcohol wipes. Aspirin may be used to reduce inflammation, reduce a fever and reduce the symptoms of colds or flu. Used alcohol wipes may be used for tinder.
In accordance with the book’s basic premise, there is no attempt to teach the reader navigation.
Wandering around can greatly hinder the efforts of a search party.
Fears notes that topics such as navigation and first aid are better learnt on a course or by deeper study than can be provided by a book such as this.

STOP

STOP, as in “Sit, Think, Observe and Plan” is advocated for readers who become lost or encounter a similar emergency.
While other books have different translations of this acronym, it remains sound advice.
As I was once told, “Don’t just do something, sit there!”
This section works well with the later section on dealing with fear and panic.
There is also some lip-service paid to “will to live” and “positive attitude”, but no real practical advice on this topic.

Signalling

The section on signalling has some good advice, such as avoid noisy areas such as waterfalls if you intend to use your whistle. If static, I would see what objects around the camp may be used as improvised drums.
Instructions on how to use the signal mirror reproduce those on the back of the Star Flash (which neglects to mention that you should move your forward hand as you move the mirror to aim it in a new direction!)
There is also an illustration of someone lying on their back and using a mirror, with no explanation of why this is being done. See here and here for information on the use of heliographs. Using a Heligraph
Fears notes that a CD/DVD may be used as a reflector and already has a sighting hole. I am sceptical as to whether a sighting hole is really needed in a heliograph.
Most of us have some CDs or DVDs that have stopped working or that we do not want (remember AOL?). These can be cut to a pocket-size and shape by placing them in a freezer or warm water for ten minutes before cutting. Cover the back with some duct tape, since they may be fragile.
Glue a pair of CDs label to label for a more robust item that is mirrored on both sides.
The book also claims the “X” is the universal ground to air signal for help. Most other sources give the meaning of this symbol as “unable to proceed”, “unable to move” or “require medical assistance”.
“V” is more commonly used for “require assistance”, and easier to construct on the ground than “SOS”.

Too Brief in Places

While the book is easily digestible, some of the sections could have been greatly improved by one or two more lines.
For example, there is a section on removing ticks, but no mention of saving them in a plastic bag for later identification and testing to assist in prevention of any long term consequences of bites.
A photo caption describes using “your knife to get into the dry wood found in the center of a damp log”, but there is no explanation that what is being shown is a stick being used to baton the blade into the log.
The section “When There Is No Repellent” could have used some mention of materials such as pine oil that may be used as improvised insect repellents.
Similarly, the sections on fire, sleeping and shelter could have used some additional passages.
While a rock overhang can provide shelter, heating from fires underneath have been known to cause rockfalls.
The section on snow shelters could have used some mention of some of the improvised digging devices a survivor might use: vehicle hubcaps, plank of wood split from a log, digging stick, snowshoes, frying pan, billies etc.

Water

The chapter on water I had the most issue with.
Carrying plenty of water purification tablets is sound advice, although it is odd the same kit that packs a whole bottle of tablets has only a sachet of insect repellent to last the whole unplanned stay!
We have the flawed advice about boiling water for ten minutes, complete with the old chestnut complaining that boiled water has a flat taste. That is not going to be one of my major concerns if stuck in the woods for a couple of days!
Halazone and iodine are no longer recommended for water purification in the field since they do not affect certain organisms.
It is also claimed that water filtration devices make water safe to drink. They don’t! Viruses are too small for these devices to filter out, so chemical or thermal treatment of the water is still needed.
It would also have been appropriate to describe the Indian/Seepage well in this section.

Food — Not a Necessity

The book does not attempt to teach trapping, fishing or identifying edible plants, since Fears points out a few days without food is not likely to be fatal.
The plant edibility test is reproduced, but lacks the stipulation that this should only be used on plants that are abundant in this area.
It is worth bearing in mind that “most people found within 72 hours” requires the outdoorsman to be overdue or authorities to receive some other notification before a search is launched. If your plan was to be in the woods a week or more, you could be roughing it for some time before anyone starts looking for you. Some of the stories in the book used for illustration have the survivor being in the woods for much longer than 72 hours before being found.
Tending a trot-line and building some traps may be a good way to occupy yourself while you are waiting. Animals often shy away from human activity and recent disruptions to their environment, so it may be some time before your traps get anything. Better to make them before you get hungry!
And if you are stuck in the woods, it is worth learning which trees have edible inner bark or can be harvested for sap.
The Pocket Outdoor Survival Guide is a quick read, and has some useful content.
Its chief strength is that it makes a survivor aware of their obligations in a rescue operation. These may be summarized as “Stay Put”, “Make Yourself Comfortable” and “Make Yourself Visible”.
It is, however, overly brief in certain sections, and in some places out of date.
You will need a lot of the knowledge in the books previously reviewed for this series to make best use of the content within.
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Phillosoph

Survival Library: Chapter 6, Northern Bushcraft

The taiga or boreal forest is the Earth’s largest land biome.
Many of my readers probably live in this area, so some recommendations for survival in these regions is warranted.
With this in mind, the next book reviewed for the Survival Library is “Northern Bushcraft” by Mors L. Kochanski.
Note that this book may also be encountered simply entitled “Bushcraft”.
Some copies include a section of colour photographs at the end of the volume.
Northern Bushcraft Cover
I was actually surprised to reach the end of the book and discover Kochanski was a Canadian. The early chapters seemed to have a Scandinavian vibe.
In my previous review I commented that many survival manuals are “much of a muchness”. Many seem to be clones of FM 21-76 with a few embellishments by the author.
Northern Bushcraft is another book that takes a different approach. It does not cover as many topics as a typical survival manual, but those it does cover, it covers in greater depth than is usual.
Logically enough, the book begins with firecraft.
Most survival manuals mention the friction fire drill. Some even suggest that you cannot be a “proper” survivalist unless you can light a fire with this device.
Kochanski goes into much greater detail regarding this device. He discusses how different components require different properties and which woods are most suitable for their construction. There are numerous other useful tips and advice on this subject.
If you have struggled with friction firelighting, or just want to get better, this chapter is well worth a read.
Various other fire-related topics are covered. Particular emphasis is given to ensuring a fire is really extinguished and will not ignite long after you have left the area.
“Stone Rimmed Fire Places. A common, though unnecessary practice, is to ring open fires with stones. This practice is based on the claim that the stones confine a fire and make it safer, yet many forest fires are in fact traced to such fireplaces. There are, however, justifiable uses of stones in a fire: to store warmth in a closed shelter: to support pots when no other means arc available: and to produce steam for a steam bath or a steam cooking pit. Rocks used without good reason arc needlessly defaced and, unless they are scattered after use. leave a permanent marker of the campfire. A stone fireplace also requires more effort to cool, and the stones that are not moved aside can harbour hot spots that may start a forest fire.” 
An interesting tip on cutting fish along the backbone rather than the belly for grilling.
The following chapters are on Axecraft, Knifecraft and Sawcraft, and each treats its subject in considerable depth.
Bearing in mind he also packed a full-sized axe or a hatchet, Kochanski recommends a small fixed blade knife. “One of the best methods in preventing the loss of a knife while carrying it is to use a deep sheath and wear it around the neck to be constantly aware of the knife’s presence. When the knife is not in use the sheath is tucked in the shirt.” Kochanski was to become a fan of Moras.
The chapter on “Bindcraft” mainly deals with constructing cordage from natural materials.
The Sheltercraft chapter returns to some of the ideas introduced in the first chapter.
Sleeping outside at minus 40 (Centigrade or Fahrenheit, minus 40 is where the two meet!) requires an understanding of both fire and shelter construction!
As a change of pace, the next chapters discuss the various uses that many of the common trees and shrubs in the northern forests may be put to.
The final two chapters discuss the moose and the varying (aka snowshoe) hare. The trap designed to prevent the hare biting through snare lines is not one I have seen in most other books. It has the merits of being both simple and ingenious.
The colour section is nice enough, although I have some reservations about the text where it mentions medical uses by indigenous populations. These things are often romanticised. If tinder fungus really is a remedy for cancer, I think we might have heard more about it!
In my previous review, I noted that “Desert Survival” contained many ideas that were useful even if you were not prone to venture into dry sandy places.
“Northern Bushcraft” is similar, in that it includes many skills and topics of information that have more general applications.
“Northern Bushcraft” is a recommended addition to your survival library.
Several copies of the older edition of the book are available on Internet Archive.
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Phillosoph

Debugging Your Bug-Out Bag: 3 Clothing

Conceivably, the need to bug out may occur when you are in the shower, or snug in your bed.
You will need to wear something other than your current garb! (Although admittedly pyjamas seem to have worked well for the Viet Cong!)Polycotton Long-Johns
In previous articles, I have talked about having an outfit to bug out in. These may either be kept with your bug‑out bag (BOB), or in your BOB and changed into when there is time.
At the very least, you should have a good coat and pair of boots near your bag. Packing these items in your bag will take up space you could use for other items.
Your boots should be in good condition, but broken in.
It is not a bad idea to have a pair of socks with them, ready to put on. Socks may be used to form a “nightcap” over the top of boots to hinder the entry of scorpions and other critters. A plastic bag over the top keeps the moths from feasting on your good wool socks.
It is wise to give your boots a good shake before putting them on anyway.
Tropentarn Camouflage
I suggest a good coat rather than a jacket. I intend to use my desert parka, adding the warm liner if needed.
Some books suggest your main coat or jacket be a breathable waterproof. These may be insufficiently breathable or hot in warm weather. If you wear your waterproof all the time the chances of it getting damaged are higher, and they tend to be very expensive!
In anticipation of its use, various useful items are already packed into the pockets of my parka. These are not EDC items, but supplements to the EDC items I carry in/with my trousers.
Parka contents include: neck-gaiter/headover, scrim scarf/veil, merkalon gloves, compass with sighting mirror, plastic mirror/heliograph, wire-saw, space blanket, cotton string/tinder, butane lighter. On a neck cord with a ferro-rod and striker are a whistle, snap-link and photon light.
Typically a warm hat, bandana and keffiyeh is nearby.
Various items from the BOB are likely to migrate to the parka or trousers so they are more accessible.
Kukri, Mora Companion and Fire Kit.
Also with the bag I have a hip‑belt with my kukri, Mora, sharpening stone and a small fire kit mounted on it.

Clothing

This topic of clothing to keep with your bug-out-bag I have previously discussed in my blog on “Dressing for Bug-Out”.
This blog will concentrate on what clothing to have in your bag.
A bug‑out bag is intended to support you for 72 hours, so you will not need that many changes of clothing.
On the other hand, wind, rain and sun can kill you in a few hours if your clothing is not suitable.
How much clothing to carry when travelling light?
Opinions differ here.
My theory is that you should have at least one complete change of clothing, since you should expect an unexpected dunking.
Some soldiers wear one set of clothing during the day and change into their alternate set to sleep, letting the day set dry and air. Kephart suggested a similar strategy.

Have a Change of Clothes

It is not practical to carry a spare parka, but a spare shirt/tunic and trousers will take little room inside a pack.
You should have two sets of undergarments, a “wear and a spare”, appropriate for season and climate.
Thermal underwear is great when it is really cold. Under most conditions it will have you sweaty and miserable. Have intermediate options.

Socks

One of the first clothing purchases for your bug-out bag that you should make is to invest in three or four pairs of good quality woollen socks. You will get nowhere without your feet.
Four pairs let you change into a drier pair whenever necessary. You may double up if it is unexpectedly cold. Two pairs of medium weight socks will be warmer than a single extremely thick pair.
A couple of extra (cheaper?) pairs of socks are worth the weight and may be tucked into various locations to pad other gear, stop things rattling etc.
For very cold conditions, have two pairs of boot insoles and alternate them. One pair airs and dries while the other pair is worn. Punch a hole in them so you can tie them to something when airing.
Similarly, sew loops of ribbon to your socks so they may be tied to the outside of your pack while drying.

Rain Poncho

Have a rain-poncho or two. If your poncho is in a pouch or has a pocket, keep a couple of lengths of paracord with it. These will be handy when rigging your poncho as a shelter.
Pocho Shelters
If it is very windy, one of these cords may be used as a belt for your poncho.
I always have a couple of spans of bootlace or cord in my left trouser pocket, and these may be used with the poncho in the same fashion.
Accessories such as hats, scarf and gloves may make the difference between comfort and catastrophe. Have spares!

Gloves

You should carry protective gloves and warm gloves. Glove liners are useful when you need more dexterity or it is especially cold.
When the wind is high or the mercury low, losing a glove can be serious. Have a spare set of gloves may save you using spare socks as mittens.
Sew a loop of ribbon, webbing or elastic to each of your gloves. You can attach them to your coat cuffs using a safety pin. This is probably more secure than the clips sold for the same purpose.
Or tie the gloves to a cord run down your sleeves and across your shoulders.

Headwear

Hats are another item it is wise to carry spares of. Extra woolly hat or headover in the cold, extra hat with brim in sun. In some parts of the world you may want a rainhat!
Pack a watch-cap with your sleeping gear as a nightcap.
Don’t let the wind steal your head-coverings! Buy a metre or two of elastic and add hat-straps to the hats that do not have them.
Carry several bandannas (some on your person) and a spare keffiyeh or scarf, depending on climate and season. Bandannas are another practical way to stop gear rattling, and serve as water filters, havelocks, oven gloves etc.

Eye Protection

Your bug-out bag should include goggles and/or sunglasses. In some environments these will be very important, so have spares. In such conditions carry one set on your person and your spares in your bag.

Hi-Viz

I prefer my clothing to be neutral or natural shades.
There will be times when you very much want to be seen, however.
A hi-viz jerkin with reflective tape weighs little and packs up small. You cannot really use this while wearing your poncho, so I would also recommend an orange or red cap or woolly hat.
There are hi-viz rucksack covers that increase your visibility when viewed from the rear. These might not fit if you have a lot of gear on the outside of your pack. In this case, have a panel of hi-viz material and reflective tape with ties that may be knotted around your rucksac straps.
This panel may be used as a flag to attract rescuers to your camp site.
If walking along roadways, walk on the side of oncoming traffic.
Part 4
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Phillosoph

Survival Library: Chapter 5, Desert Survival (Lehman)

“Desert Survival” by Charles A. Lehman was one of the first books I thought of including when I began the “Survival Library” series of blog posts.
Not surprisingly, this book concentrates on survival in a desert environment!
There is, however, plenty of sound advice relevant to other environments, so you can only be commended if you are flicking through a copy sitting in a hut near one of the poles.
Desert Survival Lehman Cover

Two Priorities

Lehman gives the survivor two priorities:
The first is “looking after your body”.
Secondary to this is “getting rescued”.
The primary threats to your body in the desert are identified as hyperthermia, dehydration and hypothermia. Some of these are, of course, concerns in other environments.
Chapters on shelter, clothing, fire-lighting and medical emergencies, among others, all relate to looking after your body.
Advice on getting rescued includes a useful account of how a search and rescue (SAR) operation will conduct a search, and steps a survivor may take to help (or unintentionally hinder) an effort.
This is information not included in most survival manuals, so the book is worth reading for this section alone.

Survival Kits

Another very good section is the advice given on putting together your own survival kit.
His advice is similar to what I have been repeating on this blog for decades: Avoid gimmicks and gizmos, don’t put all your eggs in the same basket, and have some vital items on your person, not in a pack or jacket you might put down “just for a moment”.
The survival kit/outfit suggestions are more practical than many I have encountered. I would recommend the addition of some space blankets and a compass to the personal items. To the suggested vehicle kit I would also include some duct tape, since it is more effective for certain tasks than electrical tape.
To my mind, the section on shelter was a little brief, and I feel some mention of double canopy shelters would have been appropriate for a book about surviving deserts.
Sun, wind and rain can kill you quicker than thirst.
Like many authors, he recommends the use of woollen clothing, with little consideration given to just how high a price tag often comes with such an outfit these days. Some discussion of alternatives might have been given.
While I no longer have enough hair to really justify carrying a comb, apparently I can use one to remove cholla cactus!

Pilot Outfitting

Advice given for pilots includes:
“Diversity of environmental problems complicates the "What to Wear" problem for pilots and passengers in light aircraft. Fortunately, there are some ways to cope with it. One of the easiest answers is to wear a flying suit like military pilots do. The utter utility of multi-pocketed coveralls is hard to beat.
With a good quality flight suit as an outer layer, even a business suit becomes an acceptable survival garment for moderate temperatures. If you fly over really cold areas, carry a set of the quilted type of insulated underwear. They weigh very little and offer super protection.
In really hot weather the suit will protect you from the sun and scorching rocks or sand. Try to find one that has side zippers, as well as the one in front. They allow you to ventilate the suit better.
With a flying suit, insulated underwear, and a good hat, you are nearly prepared for a survival situation, but you will need boots. This is the only clothing item that's really a weight problem. If pounds are critical in your aircraft, I would recommend wearing boots instead of shoes when you fly. That way the additional weight is insignificant. There are sturdy boots available that are dressy enough to wear with a business suit.”
To echo another desert survival manual (Air Ministry Pamphlet 225): “always fly in the boots in which you intend walking home.”
The medical section is clear and simple, grouping likely problems under eleven headings, distinguished by means of treatment. This would be a good section to photocopy and carry with a first aid kit.
A minor criticism is that the illustration of pressure points (aka “digital pressure”) seems to omit many of the points on the limbs. Add a copy of a better diagram, such as in “SAS Survival Handbook” or FM 4-25.11/FM 21-11.
Some of these medical sections are very brief, so the would-be survivor should have done some background reading about each topic.
The chapter on playing “What If?” nicely rounds off the book.
This book would not be my sole read for survival, even if my particular priority was desert survival. It is never wise to trust a single source on any subject.
The book is very much orientated towards North America, so some additional background reading would be advised if heading to sandy places elsewhere in the world.
I would recommend adding this book to your survival library, since it nicely supplements the titles suggested in Chapter One.
Many survival manuals can be “much of a muchness”, which makes them rather a chore to review, if nothing else.
Desert Survival is highly readable, and the different approach of this manual is refreshing, which probably helps you retain more of the information.
A very nice feature of this book is that it crams in a lot of useful information into just 81 pages. That is very welcome, given so many manuals run to hundreds of pages and can be heavy going.
This book is available to borrow at Internet Archive. Please support Internet Archive!
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Phillosoph

Debugging Your Bug-Out Bag: 2 Sustenance

Food and Cooking

A bug-out is not going to be three square meals a day with a choice of ice cream flavours!
For a bug-out bag, most of the food should be capable of being consumed without cooking. A significant part should be food you can consume on the move.
Long shelf-life without the need for refrigeration or freezing is a priority.
MREs are an expensive and somewhat bulky way to stay fed for 72 hours. You will also be lugging around weight and junk you do not need such as multiple spoons, instant coffee and chewing gum.
Soldiers often strip down their MREs before a patrol. Vast amounts of fuel and money could be saved if many of these items were not included in the first place!
Stripping down the MREs for a bug-out bag beforehand is not really practical since you will violate the packaging and affect the shelf-life.
Possibly the best feature of MREs is the provision of flame-less heating pouches.
There are lots of other foods that meet the above criteria, many of them available down the supermarket. I suggest you read DePugh’s comments on food selection.
Some possible things to provision your BOB include:
Dried or semi-dried food such as sultanas, apricots and banana flakes.
Matzos.
Rolled Oats/Porridge: One of the few grains that can be eaten without cooking.
Cured or smoked sausage.
Tinned meats such as Spam, corned beef etc.
Trail mix (has a relatively short shelf life, but use it if you have it).
Home-made Jerky (a good stock of the store bought stuff may be expensive, so make your own!)
Cereal bars.You can make your own.
Lifeboat Biscuits.
Pinole (easily made from polenta).
Malt barley.
Note that many of these are “go-foods” which may be consumed on the move.
If you are not in immediate danger, add fresh foods you may have in the house. Priorities are fruit, cheese, bread, jams, butter, and cooked meats.
Carbs, fats and sugars: The end of the world is no time to keep to the diet!
Carry a bag of hard candy/boiled sweets. One of these can give you a quick boost when you are flagging.
Don’t waste space and money on vitamin supplements. Vitamin deficiency is not going to be a major threat in 72 hours!
While carrying a bug-out bag and its contents will consume energy, many reading this will be used to eating larger meals and more frequently than they need to. You can go a lot further on less than you might think.
In addition to the above, you may wish to put together a “brew kit”. In certain conditions hot liquids are much more than just a morale boost.
Have tea bags and coffee bags. If civilisation is ending you don’t want the last thing you drink to be yucky instant pseudo-coffee!
Add some variety such as hot chocolate mix, stock cubes, packet-soups and even some blocks of instant noodles.
If water supplies are a concern, sugars and starches take less water to digest than fats. Eating tends to stimulate thirst. Eating less food if water is restricted is usually prudent, and appetite is often reduced in vary hot weather, so the quantity of food may be reduced in favour of more water.
Many of us are carrying extra weight around our middles, so a couple of days on light rations will not harm us. A couple of days without adequate water will!

Boiling Water

Even if you do not carry a brew kit, some means to heat water to render it safe to drink will be needed.
This is another area where bad advice is common. I have seen recommendations to boil for twenty minutes and allow to stand for another twenty! The WHO standard specifies a rolling boil for ten minutes.This is not a strictly scientific criteria and is deliberate overkill. (This criteria may have been updated since I was educated!) Ten minutes is not really practical if your fuel supply is limited.
Generally, your actual requirement is to pasteurize your water (kill pathogens) rather than sterilize it. This may be done by heating water to 65°C for six minutes. More practically, since the pasteurization process is exponential, bringing water to a rolling boil (100°C) for a few seconds has the same effect. That is how humans have been pasteurizing water (and making tea) for thousands of years.
I am a qualified microbiologist (be it an old one!), but don’t take my word for it, do some research of your own. Many sites on solar cooking have information on water pasteurization and SODIS, and may have links to scientific papers on the topic.
German Mess Kit with Insert
A European mess kit is a better choice for cooking and boiling than a canteen cup. It will treat a more useful quantity of water and may be hung above a fire. It may also be used as a bucket to fetch water, collect berries and similar.
The interior of your mess kit may be packed with your brew kit and other items.
I would not recommend carrying your stove and fuel inside your cooking vessel, even if bagged up.
A mess kit or canteen cup is a pack item, not belt-kit.

Stove

A stove will be needed for when a fire cannot be used.
Alcohol gel stoves are probably the best option for your bug-out-bag.
Some of these resemble small paint cans with a pot stand. Other models of stove, such as the Crusader cup stoves, mini-Trangia and Trangia Triangle will work with either alcohol gel or solid fuel blocks. The Trangia stoves and the Esbit folding stoves can be modified to use gel by adding a metal dish for the fuel. Some solid alcohol blocks work with the standard Esbit stove.
Solid fuel blocks or gel may also be used to help light more traditional fires.
Other designs of stove, pot support or burning dish are easily constructed.
You may use your stove while the pot handle hangs from a stick or other support. This is useful when your cooking space is not totally level, or your pot is likely to get knocked.
Air Ministry Pamphlet “Desert Survival” 225:
Paragraph 11. The following items, in addition to water, should be carried if possible: heliograph, signal pistol and cartridges or flares, a small reliable compass, maps (indicating roads and sources of water if possible), tinted flying goggles or sun glasses, head covering, knife, matches, salt tablets, a minimum of concentrated emergency rations, first aid kit, anti-burn cream, torch, warm clothing (for use at night), and.a pair of strong boots. A useful maxim to bear in mind is “always fly in the boots in which you intend walking home”.

Water

You will need some means to carry water, the quantity depending on climate and availability. In arid and semi-arid conditions water is one of your priorities. In the jungle or Pacific Northwest there may be more water around than you care for.
Water consumption should not exceed water loss. When water supplies are a concern, minimize water loss. “Ration Sweat”. Cover your head and exposed skin. Stick to the shade. Hike or work at night.
When water is scarce, priority is for drinking rather than washing or cooking. Washing should be restricted to washing wounds and cleaning the hands before eating or medical procedures.
Each litre of water you carry will weigh one kilo/ 2.2 lbs, not including the container.
A water bladder with a drinking tube is recommended, since it allows you to drink on the move without needing to remove or unpack your pack. Stay hydrated!
A hydration pack is a water bladder with carrying straps, so it can be worn as a small pack when you are not wearing your rucksack. The hydration pack should either fit in or onto the outside of your rucksack when you are wearing the latter.
You only really need one bladder with a drinking tube in your bug-out-bag. The rest of your water may be carried in containers such as large soda bottles, which saves a few pennies. Refill your water bladder from the soda bottles as needed.
There are various pros and cons regarding keeping the water bottles in your bug-out-bag already filled.
Firstly, any water kept for an extended period should have a few drops of unscented bleach added to it. This sterilizes the water and harmlessly decays down into water and hint of salt over time. I would not keep water in water bladders when they are not in use.
Plastic components leaching into the stored water has been raised as an objection. According to scientific studies this is a very minor worry. If a nearby volcano or the local nuclear plant is about to blow, this may be fairly low on your list of worries!
There may not be time to fill-up your water bottles before you go. The mains water supply may have been cut off, or toxic waste dumped into the water supply by your friendly local industry may be the reason you are evacuating.
Filling the bottles in your bug-out-gear in a supply of water you stored for the purpose has been suggested. Presumably some people intend to use non-plastic bottles. Finding non-plastic storage bottles larger than a litre may be difficult. That may be a lot of bottles you will need to find room for!
Obviously, if storing water long term, use water that is as clean and clear as possible. Preboil it if possible. Reoxygenate it as described on the SODIS protocol before topping up and adding bleach or purification tablets.
Leaving the filled and sealed bottles standing in strong sunlight for a day or so will not hurt.
While most of your water should be in your pack, you should have a reserve on your person to carry when you are away from your main pack.
Hydration packs or canteens with slings are good, but there will be temptation to put them down. Slings or carrying straps may get caught on undergrowth and branches.
A canteen in a belt pouch may make sloshing noises that will give your presence away or alert game. A water bladder in a belt pouch may be a better option.
Smaller bottles, such as the US pilot’s flask (One US pint) can be carried in a large pocket.
With your water supply you might decide to carry a dew-sponge, length of plastic tube, and a bandanna/cloth to be used for initial filtration.
Your bug-out-bag should have a good supply of water-purification tablets for instances when you cannot heat treat your water. Get the sort intended for travellers, where a single tablet treats one litre of water. Some varieties treat 5 or 200 litres per tablet!
Water purification pumps are possibly not necessary for an individual travelling light in a 72 hour scenario, but useful for a squad or group or for a longer trip. Such water will still need chemical or heat treatment. Filtration will remove many harmful organisms but cannot remove all viruses.
Simple Spring Snare Trap
Recommendations for trapping and fishing gear for a bug-out bag can also get quite extensive.
In many bug-out scenarios there may not be time or suitable conditions for trapping and fishing. Trapping and fishing involves staying in an area for some time, when in a bug-out travelling may be a priority.
My EDC includes a six-span length of braided fishing line and 22 hooks on nylon. If I was expecting to venture into the wilds, I might add some additional gear to my EDC. I will talk about that another day. Today I am discussing what to carry in your bug-out-bag.
Brass wire suitable for making snares may be used for repairs or for other purposes, so a ten metre coil has a place in your bug-out bag.
A generous amount of braided fishing line also has many other applications. You might as well pack whatever was left on the reel once you had constructed your EDC fishing lines.
Some advise to also have a spool of light monofilament or flurocarbon line for when fish are shy of a braided or heavy line. All my hooks are on nylon and in a survival/bug-out situation I am most likely to be night fishing, so I expect line visibility will not be a major problem.
It is not a bad idea to fill the nooks and crannies of your bag with various types of cordage: ball of cotton string, bundle of bankline, hank of paracord.
Fishing hooks and lures cost little and take up little room, so have a good supply. They will be no great burden even if you do not have a chance to use them. All should already be tied to nylon leaders or fitted with snap-swivels.
A bundle of wire leaders will be useful if you find yourself lucky enough to be fishing for bigger, sharp-toothed fish. Long leaders may also be used as snares.
I am a little dubious about carrying fishing rods and other items intended for active angling. There are easier methods for catching fish. If travelling the most likely technique will be setting a night line while sleeping.
A fishing gig and a net are useful if you are certain that you will be fishing.
Most gigs I have seen have a screw fitting. You will need to modify this so you have a socket that may be mounted on a stick.
In Brazil, my girlfriend would use a net she called a “pulsa”. Her description sounds like a circular lift net, but it would be thrown out over the water like a frisbee and then hauled back, effectively trawling. Similar nets fold up to a size compatible with a large pack.
As far as active hunting goes, you may not have time if the emergency requires you to move fast or travel far.
All the chaos and human activity may make game shy, or they may have bugged out themselves before humans woke-up to the danger.
A hand catapult takes up little room in a bag, although you may have little opportunity to hunt with it. It could be useful in driving off aggressive dogs.
A .22 hunting rifle may not see much use either.
In a 72 hour bug-out scenario, other human beings are likely to be more of a problem than hunger. This should be figured into what firearms you decide to take with you.
Part Three
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Phillosoph

Debugging Your Bug-Out Bag: 1 Sleep Tight

There are literally hundreds of books and websites telling you how to put together a 72 hour kit/Bug-Out Bag (BOB).
Generally I have tried to address less common topics.
Having recently seen just how bad some of these BOB suggestions are, I now feel inclined to share some thoughts and suggestions on a few topics.
If you are putting together a Bug-Out Bag (BOB) I suggest you first have a read of Robert DePugh’s observations on food and gear.
Then have a browse of Kephart’s Summer and Autumn Outfits. Several chapters of Kephart’s book are well worth a read before progressing.
Kephart’s mentor Nessmuk has several passages that provide further insight of what could be achieved more than a century ago:
"Fine woolen cassimere of medium thickness for coat, vest and pantaloons, with no cotton lining. Color, slate gray or dead­leaf (either is good). Two soft, thick woolen shirts; two pairs of fine, but substantial, woolen drawers; two pairs of strong woolen socks or stockings; these are what you need, and all you need in the way of clothing for the woods, excepting hat and boots, or gaiters."
"My own load, including canoe, extra clothing, blanket­bag, two days’ rations, pocket­axe, rod and knapsack, never exceeded 26 pounds; and I went prepared to camp out any and every night." [Including canoe!]
"I made calculations on losing the trail the first day, and being out a full week. The outfit consisted of rifle, hatchet, compass, blanket­bag, knapsack and knife. For rations, one loaf of bread, two quarts of meal, two pounds of pork, one pound of sugar, with tea, salt, etc., and a supply of jerked venison. One tin dish, twelve rounds of ammunition, and the bullet­molds, filled the list, and did not make a heavy load."
AFM 64-5 (1952) advises:
Don't overload; a 25-30 pound sack should carry all you need except in the Arctic in winter. Try to carry as many of the following items as possible: matches or lighter, candle, compass, necessary maps, airplane first-aid kit, notebook and pencil — all in waterproof containers — machete or stout knife, water, food, signal mirror, sunglasses, watch, small bottle of gasoline, gun and ammunition, wire or shroud lines, extra socks.
Arctic: In the winter, in addition to the essentials recommended above, carry a sleeping bag, parka, mittens, snowshoes, or skis, and mukluks. In summer don't forget mosquito netting and repellent, extra clothing (socks especially) and shoepacs. Wear sunglasses when sun is high on snow surface. Keep feet dry, summer and winter.
Desert: Water is the most important factor in desert survival. Carry along all you can — even at the expense of leaving behind some food and other equipment. Take along a piece of parachute to serve as a sunshade during the day; carry some extra clothing for the cold nights.
Tropics: The most useful aids to travel in the tropics are a machete, to help cut your way, find food, make a raft; a compass, for maintaining direction; a first aid kit, to keep you going in the face of fever and the risk of infection; stout shoes, that will save your feet and enable you to walk out; and a hammock.
Greenbank also recommends a 30 lb load, although he may have been influenced by AFM 64-5.
The US DOD definition of “manportable” is that an item is less than 14 kg/31 lbs. Of course, many soldiers get lumbered with several “manportable” items along with a heap of other gear!
Your bag may be heavier than this, but it is a good target to aim for. 
How to pack a rucksack I have described previously. Ideally, you want a large pack, packed light. The sleeping kit suggested belowis bulky, but relatively light. The mass of denser items carried above it helps compress it.
I will work on the common premise that a bug-out-bag is designed to keep you going for 72 hours until you reach safety or an emergency response has been organized.
I will limit myself to bag contents. Elsewhere I have discussed what to have with your bag..

Sleeping and Shelter

If you do not already have a rucksack you intend to use, it may be prudent to assemble your sleeping and shelter gear before you purchase your rucksack.
Your goal is a roomy pack, lightly packed.
How much room your sleeping and shelter gear takes up, and how you carry it will influence how much other stuff you take with you.
I hear of soldiers and some outdoor types omitting their sleeping gear and resigning themselves to being uncomfortable and having a bad night's sleep. This is not really advisable.
We spend at least a third of our time sleeping. Not getting a good sleep may very adversely affect our performance when awake. You may need to be at your best!

Poncho Liner or Blanket

At the very minimum, you will need a blanket or poncho-liner. These may also serve as a warm garment, and may be modified to better serve in this role.
A blanket or poncho-liner may be combined with other sleeping items for additional warmth.
Man in Poncho0liner
In a tactical scenario a blanket or poncho-liner will keep you warm but may be immediately discarded if necessary.
Many soldiers who “rough-it” could have simply thrown a ponch-liner over themselves.
This conjures up a nice image of the first sergeant doing his rounds and tucking in exhausted grunts. Aww!

Sleeping Bags

Unless you live in the tropics, you will need to have a 1 to 2 or 2-season sleeping bag and a 2 to 3 or 3-season bag for colder conditions. Select which best suits the anticipated conditions.
Which to buy first? Let the current season be your guide.
When it is colder, the bags may be used in combination with each other, and/or with the poncho-liner/blanket.
If you want your BOB ready to go at a moment’s notice, have the sleeping bag appropriate for the current season packed in your rucksack while the other “rests” uncompressed. This will prolong the life and performance of your bags.
Supposably, down bags pack smaller and are more tolerant of being compressed for long periods of time.
If you live where it is more often wet than cold, a synthetic bag may be a better choice.
Select according to your budget and local conditions.
A sleeping bag liner keeps your bedding cleaner. There are silk and fleece versions that may increase the temperature range of your sleeping system.
Your sleeping kit should also include a pair of sandbags or similar. If you have to sleep in your boots, cover your boots with the sandbags.
Have a woolly hat or headover to serve as a nightcap.

Kip Mats

The ground will probably be cold and wet at night. A kip mat costs little and will make a big difference to your comfort.
There are alternatives such as self-inflating mattresses. It is debatable if the expense is justified if the item is permanently to be kept in a BOB.
A rolled kip mat does not need heavy duty straps. I used a couple of polyester ribbons and buckles for one of mine. If you know your basic knots as you should, you can use a length of cord. The cord may be put to other purposes while the mat is in use.
Kip mats are often rolled and carried strapped to the outside of a bag. Unless kept in a camouflage sack, they compromise your camouflage.
They are also somewhat vulnerable in this position. Many soldiers do not bother carrying them since they are likely to be ripped away while the rucksack is hung on the outside of a vehicle.
A rucksack that is large enough to accommodate a foldied kip mat is obviously an advantage. The mat provides additional padding against the back.
If you do lose your kip mat, try stuffing a bin-bag full of leaves or similar. Your rucksack should have half a dozen large bin-bags. They have numerous uses.

Bivi-Bags

Bivi-bags seem to get much less attention than they used to.
A bivi-bag will keep you dry and a little warmer when it is not possible to rig a shelter. The variants with a lengthwise opening are probably a little easier to exit in a hurry. For the same reasons, I do not recommend “hooped bivis”, which are actually tube tents.
When on the move, stick the bivi-bag in the bottom of your rucksack and cram your sleeping bag(s) into it.
Most bivi-bags are green or green dominant camouflages. They seem to spend a lot of this time on brown forest floors!

Poncho/Basha

When practical, you can use your bivi-bag in combination with a poncho or basha.
Pocho Shelters
This keeps the rain from pooling on your bivi-bag and gives you some shelter when dressing or cooking.
You will also need pegs, some cordage and/or bungees. If it is really windy, you may need to peg down your kip mat and/or bivi-bag, so have enough pegs.
You will need some support poles for when Mother Nature neglects to provide conveniently located trees.
In the desert, or very cold conditions, use a double canopy above you for added insulation. A space blanket, spare poncho etc may be used.

Hammocks

If your evacuation will take you through jungle or wooded areas, a lightweight hammock may prove handy.
Potentially, a net hammock can be used to fish, although the holes are on the large side in many examples I have seen.
Nets may also be used to catch rabbits if you can “smoke” them out of their warrens.
Twisted, a hammock may serve as an emergency rope.
Locations where you might use a hammock often also require mosquito netting. Biting insects can be a concern in colder latitudes too, however.

Tents

A poncho shelter gives you good situational awareness, which is prudent if bad people might try and take your stuff or do stuff to you. Emergencies are likely to bring out both the best and worst of humanity!
In some climates or seasons a tent is necessary.
Single person tents tend to be cramped, so you will probably end up rigging a poncho shelter in addition.
Crawling in and out of a small tent can be a slow process. If you need to exit a bivi-bag quickly, stand up and let it drop.
“One Plus One” tents are designed to be roomier for a solo traveller, yet can accommodate two people if they get on well.
If you intend to bug-out as part of a group, two-person tents may be warranted.
Dividing the components of a tent between two people is generally not a good idea. If a pair are separated neither has a complete shelter.
The exception to this are tents made from military shelter halves. Each half may be used as a lean-to.
One person should carry the full two-person tent while the other carries individual emergency shelter items. The tent carrier’s load may be lightened by their partner carrying a greater proportion of the food or water.
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Phillosoph

Survival Library: Chapter 4, No Need to Die

The other day, I went looking for an old survival book.
The search engine provided me with hundreds of titles just within the bushcraft/wilderness field alone.
Back in the 1980s, the choice seemed much more limited. Of course, with my memory I may be forgetting quite a few titles from then!
Eddie MacGee Rucksack Packing Suggestions
The main work in the field was what was then FM21-76 and related publications.
There were a few books from other official sources, such as the Air Ministry pamphlets: “Arctic Survival”, “Desert Survival”, “Jungle Survival” and “Sea Survival”. Those are still well worth a read, incidentally.
Combat Survival and Evasion” was apparently compiled from the course notes of some gentlemen in Hereford. It is an interesting, if a little eccentric, read which I may discuss in a later blog.
I owned copies of “Can You Survive” by Robert DePugh, “Jack Knife Cookery” by James Austin Wilder and “The Art of Survival” by Cord Christian Troebst. Not strictly survival manuals, but all interesting and all containing some useful information.
The SAS Survival Handbook” by John “Lofty” Wiseman was the new kid on the block, and had already established itself as one of the go-to books on the subject.
The “Survival Handbook”/“The Book of Survival” by Anthony Greenback was a little older, but did not seem to get as much attention as some other works. A shame, since it remains an excellent book.
Admittedly, my memory often fails me these days, but the only other manual I can recall from that time is “No Need to Die” by Eddie McGee. This was actually the book I had been searching for, although naturally I could not recall the author nor title until I found it.
Back in those days, this had been one of the few survival books my local library had.
No Need to Die Cover
Personally, I tend to think of this book as more of a discourse than a guide. Some topics are covered in great detail, while other fields, less so.
For example, there is some discussion of direction finding using plants and other means, but very little instruction in navigation as a broader topic.
On the other hand, there are large sections on tracking, trapping and fishing. These are very good, and it will be a very rare reader that does not learn something new.
There is a certain, very British eccentricity to the book. It is written in an informal, chatty style. There are numerous cartoons and sketches by the author, some of which detail ideas only touched on in the main text.
Reading it once again after several decades, one of the sections I now find interesting me is that on the use of fishing skiffs and fishing with gourds/balloons/condoms/plastic bags.
Fishing SkiffFishing SkiffBalloon Fishing
Pine bark as insect repellent is worth knowing too. (Some other tree barks, such as birch and cedar may also be suitable, as might other parts of the pine tree)
The Tepee Fire: This method is probably the most common one used all over the world. Simple to light, providing there are plenty of dry materials available. However, no matter how simple or practical it may be, this method will not work on snow or very wet ground. All fires, no matter which type, should always be built on some form of a platform. [My emphasis] Because this method has no controlled fire surrounds it quickly consumes the fuels. More forest fires are started by this method than any other. Often the lazy campers just kick the fire out and move out leaving the fire to smoulder and relight.”
I would not suggest “No Need to Die” as a sole or first book someone should read on survival. See Survival Library Chapter One for my recommendations in this regard.
“No Need to Die” is certainly a book worth reading once you have a grounding in the basics. You are bound to learn a few things.
McGee was later to write “Eddie McGee's Complete Book Of Survival”. I hope to find time to read and review this in the near future.
One story from “No Need to Die” sticks with me (p.178):
“I remember once on a long desert walk in the Oman, while serving with the Sultan’s forces, making my way across to a known water well. I knew that the arabs guarded their water hole tenaciously but when I arrived at the well I did not expect to find that each arab, in fact, carried his own water collection skin, so having found the water well and removed the stone covering I was dumbfounded to find the water over twenty feet down and the hole about two feet in diameter. I had no bucket, only my water bottle and no means of lowering it down by rope and it was certainly too dangerous for me to climb down, so I sat a little and thought. I removed my survival bag from my belt, took off my vest, fastened my fishing line to it and lowered this to the water. In a couple of minutes I had not only filled my container, I’d also stepped back and had a good strip wash and removed some of the grime and salt from my body. Later I made a cup of tea, went to sleep, had a good rest and moved off the next morning feeling on top of the world and re-supplied with water.”
As luck would have it, the same day I read the above passage, I came across a forum where some members were glibly challenging if anyone’s life had ever been saved by a survival fishing kit?
Right here was an example of how a component of a fishing kit (and a vest!) had potentially saved someone’s life, even though they were in a desert and probably miles from the nearest stream.
With my current situation, lifestyle and location, the chances of myself needing to fish or trap to feed myself are remote. Thus, I had been tardy getting around adding any fishing or trapping components to my skin-level EDC.
Reading the above story, I vowed to add some fishing line to my EDC pouch. A couple of packets of hooks on nylon couldn’t hurt either. Better to have them and never use them…
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Phillosoph

Hidden Hand Trio: Wrist Grab Escapes

Escapes from wrist grabs are not a topic I have often covered in this blog. There are hundreds of books, blogs and videos showing such techniques. They range from simple to intricate, and from realistic to the not so much!
Here at survive.phillosoph.com, I try to offer content not found on other defence or survival pages. When I do consider a more common topic, I endeveor to look at it from a different angle, or provide fresh insight or novel information. I hope that I have achieved this, at least sometimes.
If some self-defence courses and books are to be believed, someone walking up to you and holding your wrist is a common problem. Maybe not for some of us. I am big and ugly and not that many people wish to hold my hand.
On the other hand, (pun intended!) wrist grabs are probably a more common feature of altercations between a man and a woman. And there are fighting styles that often feature controlling an arm to apply a lock, throw or to pull aside a defence for a strike.
Therefore, your repertoire of defensive techniques should include some responses to wrist grabs.
“Crash Combat” mainly concentrates on the method I have called the “under and up”, the “under and out” or even “under, out and up”. Use whichever name helps you remember how it works.
This technique works for same-side grabs (right hand to right wrist, left to left), or cross/mirror-stance grabs (left to right wrist, or right to left-wrist).
It works for whether the grabber's thumb is towards or away from the defender’s hand.
The same technique is used to respond to your knife wrist being grabbed, or someone grabbing your baton or rifle barrel.
Being a more extensive work, “Attack, Avoid, Survive” adds some additional techniques, ranging from the very simple jerking action against the thumb, to the kuk sool won-based throwing techniques.
Recently I started reading “Analysis of Shaolin Chin-na”. This included advice that I will paraphrase as: “if someone grabs you (by your wrist, fingers etc), poke them in the eyes or kick their shins. Attack, Avoid, Survive contains the same tactics, although not as catchily expressed as Jwing-Ming Yang put it, I will admit.

Techniques from Bagua

I was inspired to dig through my collection and find the DVD that included Erle Montaigue teaching eight methods of wrist escape. I found it on MTG15 “Dim-Mak and Combat Wrestling”, which is worth checking out, btw.
The clip below does not include the wrist grab section, but has some other techniques worth knowing, some of which may be used to prevent or follow-up a wrist grab.
The eight techniques Erle shows each use a hand form from bagua/pa-kur. Several of these are actually the under and up technique, but using a variety of hand configurations.
Today I would like to look at three of the other methods in the video. I personally think of these as the “Hidden Hand Wrist Grab” responses.
For ease of illustration, let us assume that it is the defender’s right wrist being held in the following descriptions.

First Method

In the first method, the wrist is grabbed, the grabber’s thumb away from the hand and his palm on the outside/back of the forearm.
In response, the fingers of the grabbed hand are splayed out. This action is also seen in the kuk sool won techniques in Attack, Avoid, Survive, so I presume the intention is to fortify the wrist.
The fingers are then thrust towards the grabber’s throat or face. This echoes the “poke ‘em in the eyes” advice, but uses the grabbed hand rather than your free hand.
The restrained hand is driven forward, not just by the arm, but by a rotation of the hips and waist and the forward movement of the whole body.
As the thrust is made, the hand is turned palm up so there is a corkscrew-type action, and considerable weight and force is applied to the space between the grabber’s thumb and fingers.
There is a supplementary technique to this move, which I will address a little later.

Second Method

The second technique is very similar, but in this case the grab is to the inner side of the wrist.
Again, splay your fingers and use your body motion to twist the arm and drive the fingers at the throat or face.

“Head Scratch” Method

The third and final technique we will look at is the fourth method on Erle’s video. To avoid confusion, I will call this the “head scratch” technique.
The wrist has been grabbed as in the first technique. The grabber holds the right wrist with his left hand.
Splay the fingers and raise your hand up so you look at your own palm. Without pausing, continue raising the hand as though you intend to scratch your head above the forehead. At the same time as you make this action, you utilize the body rotation and movement that powers it to turn to your left and move away from the grabber.
If the hold is not broken and the grabber does not let go, they will be pulled along behind the defender.
As the defender turns away, they may choose to throw their hand before them and thrust forward with their palm, applying additional force to break the hold or pull the grabber off balance.
This technique may also be used right hand against right wrist, or left against left, but you will need to change the direction you move away. Move to take yourself to the outside of the grabbing arm. This will take you out of reach of the grabber’s free hand.

Supplementary Technique

The supplementary technique for all three moves is essentially the same for all.
As your grabbed right hand begins to move, your free left hand moves toward your right elbow and then swings up toward your right hand. The left hand moves parallel to the underside of your held forearm. The grabber may not notice this motion, which is why I call these “hidden hand” escape techniques.
By grasping your wrist, the grabber has effectively immobilized their own, making it easy for you to grasp their wrist with your free hand. Use your thumb or fingers to attack nei gwan/neigwan/PC-6.
Rather than trying to grab the wrist outright, try placing your left palm on the forearm and allowing it to slip slightly down the forearm as it tightens the grip.
If the foe’s wrist grip on you is broken, use your own wrist hold to pull the foe off balance, or pull their arm out of the way while you strike with your freed arm, for example using a hammer-fist or elbow strike.
If the hold was not broken, twist your body to pull him forward, stepping across his front so that he is tripped.
Successfully exploiting a grab or lock may require disrupting the foe with some strikes. Similarly, a lock of grab may only be a prelude to a throwing technique..
For the head scratch technique, the action of turning away may be used to drive a hip or shoulder throw without waiting to see if the hold is broken.
If the hold is broken during the initial “head scratch” motion, the turn away may be replaced with a turn back to deliver a strike.
There are many other options, of course.
Your grab on his wrist may be used to pull his hand low and then up behind his back, for instance.
If moving to the outside of the grabbing arm the arm may be taken up to create a high bent arm lock to force the attack to overbalance backwards.